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River Road to China: The Search for the Source of the Mekong, 1866–73
"A compelling, finely researched account of an adventure that was hailed as one of the grandest explorations of the nineteenth century." --The Washington Post
A New York Times Notable Book
In 1866, six Frenchmen set out on a dangerous mission to seek a trade route up the Mekong. During the two years that followed, they would journey through more than four thousand miles of unmapped territory, from the tropical heat of the swamps of Vietnam and Cambodia to the bitter cold of the mountain ranges of southwestern China.
Their historic expedition is the dramatic subject of River Road to China, a story of courage, endurance, and determination in the face of unpredictable dangers and near-insurmountable odds. This edition has been updated to include a new postscript by the author and more than thirty full-color illustrations by the expedition's artist.
"The highest of high adventure . . . [Osborne's] documentation is flawless." --The New Yorker
"As exciting as it is historically illuminating . . . A tale of heroism that has seldom been duplicated, spurred by the continuing, fatal attraction of the 'Great River.'" --The New Republic
A New York Times Notable Book
In 1866, six Frenchmen set out on a dangerous mission to seek a trade route up the Mekong. During the two years that followed, they would journey through more than four thousand miles of unmapped territory, from the tropical heat of the swamps of Vietnam and Cambodia to the bitter cold of the mountain ranges of southwestern China.
Their historic expedition is the dramatic subject of River Road to China, a story of courage, endurance, and determination in the face of unpredictable dangers and near-insurmountable odds. This edition has been updated to include a new postscript by the author and more than thirty full-color illustrations by the expedition's artist.
"The highest of high adventure . . . [Osborne's] documentation is flawless." --The New Yorker
"As exciting as it is historically illuminating . . . A tale of heroism that has seldom been duplicated, spurred by the continuing, fatal attraction of the 'Great River.'" --The New Republic
317 pages, Kindle Edition
First published January 1, 1975
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90 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 8 of 8 reviews
December 31, 2019
Where flying fish never played
In the 19th century the French were bold and brave, but planning did not seem to be their forte. The government of Cochin China, the rather new French colony in what is southern Vietnam today, sort of decided that, well, it might not be a bad idea if six military officers explored the length of the Mekong River. Six! And they didn’t have a large number of staff either, though they did set off with 700 litres of wine and 300 of brandy. The thing was that nobody knew where the Mekong began and since those dastardly British had already taken over Hong Kong and Singapore, were casting an eye on Upper Burma, and of course, had India already sewn up, the French might be able to outfox them in getting a large share of the China trade if they could find a “river road to China”. Hence the title of this most interesting if sad book.
This expedition took place in the year 1866 when Europeans had never traced the river past Luang Prabang in Laos and then, only in bits and pieces. In order to follow the river, they would eventually, they knew, have to cross into China. Even back then, they would need special permits. They had the supply of spirits, but they left without the permits! Then, as they trekked and went by barge along the river, they soon realized that the river had several sets of mighty rapids plus an enormous rack of waterfalls something like Iguaçu in South America. No, the Mekong definitely would not be navigable for trade with China. But they kept on.
The second in command, one Garnier, was an incredibly gung-ho individual full of dreams of glory, for himself and for France. He was the one who backtracked hundreds of miles on a separate epic journey to retrieve the permits. They trudged through steamy jungles and leech-infested swamps, jettisoned most of their gear, wore out their shoes and had to walk barefoot for months. They got malaria and amoebic dysentery in the day when there were no effective medicines against them. They took extensive notes about the route, the peoples they met, the political situation as they saw it, and the natural life they encountered. Sick, exhausted, discouraged, they kept on until they reached the Chinese border in Yunnan province where an Islamic rebellion continued. Overcoming terrible weather and difficult terrain, and leaving the Mekong, they encountered various Chinese officials who generally helped them. Huge crowds of curious Chinese followed them in towns; leading to some scary incidents. Finally the Islamic rebels refused to let them penetrate to the Mekong’s upper reaches. The leader died of disease, the others went down the Yangtze to Shanghai and hence back to Saigon. It had taken over two years.
It’s a fascinating story of truly intrepid, if poorly organized 19th century men who believed in European superiority and national glory. Their journey was never much honored in France. We read about what happened to each of them and of some controversies that arose due to rival claims of “discovery”. It’s a colorfully-written book about a little known episode in the colonial history of Southeast Asia with some etchings by one of the expedition members included. The Mekong is still not an avenue for trade.
In the 19th century the French were bold and brave, but planning did not seem to be their forte. The government of Cochin China, the rather new French colony in what is southern Vietnam today, sort of decided that, well, it might not be a bad idea if six military officers explored the length of the Mekong River. Six! And they didn’t have a large number of staff either, though they did set off with 700 litres of wine and 300 of brandy. The thing was that nobody knew where the Mekong began and since those dastardly British had already taken over Hong Kong and Singapore, were casting an eye on Upper Burma, and of course, had India already sewn up, the French might be able to outfox them in getting a large share of the China trade if they could find a “river road to China”. Hence the title of this most interesting if sad book.
This expedition took place in the year 1866 when Europeans had never traced the river past Luang Prabang in Laos and then, only in bits and pieces. In order to follow the river, they would eventually, they knew, have to cross into China. Even back then, they would need special permits. They had the supply of spirits, but they left without the permits! Then, as they trekked and went by barge along the river, they soon realized that the river had several sets of mighty rapids plus an enormous rack of waterfalls something like Iguaçu in South America. No, the Mekong definitely would not be navigable for trade with China. But they kept on.
The second in command, one Garnier, was an incredibly gung-ho individual full of dreams of glory, for himself and for France. He was the one who backtracked hundreds of miles on a separate epic journey to retrieve the permits. They trudged through steamy jungles and leech-infested swamps, jettisoned most of their gear, wore out their shoes and had to walk barefoot for months. They got malaria and amoebic dysentery in the day when there were no effective medicines against them. They took extensive notes about the route, the peoples they met, the political situation as they saw it, and the natural life they encountered. Sick, exhausted, discouraged, they kept on until they reached the Chinese border in Yunnan province where an Islamic rebellion continued. Overcoming terrible weather and difficult terrain, and leaving the Mekong, they encountered various Chinese officials who generally helped them. Huge crowds of curious Chinese followed them in towns; leading to some scary incidents. Finally the Islamic rebels refused to let them penetrate to the Mekong’s upper reaches. The leader died of disease, the others went down the Yangtze to Shanghai and hence back to Saigon. It had taken over two years.
It’s a fascinating story of truly intrepid, if poorly organized 19th century men who believed in European superiority and national glory. Their journey was never much honored in France. We read about what happened to each of them and of some controversies that arose due to rival claims of “discovery”. It’s a colorfully-written book about a little known episode in the colonial history of Southeast Asia with some etchings by one of the expedition members included. The Mekong is still not an avenue for trade.
January 26, 2024
What a crazy story! I really enjoyed learning about this expedition and everything they had to endure as they attempted to find the source of the Mekong, and ultimately failed. The perseverance they showed, especially after realizing their goal had failed, was quite incredible. The narrative itself was good, but not terribly personal or detailed in the way I had hoped it would be, but still enjoyable.
February 7, 2014
Not quite Undaunted Courage: The Pioneering First Mission to Explore America's Wild Frontier in its length, results, or telling, but Milton Osborne (circa 1975) does an admirable and engaging job of taking readers along on the first European exploration up the Mekong River, 1866-1868, with aspirations of reaching its headwaters in Tibet. Spoiler alert: The team of French naval officers and their support crew doesn't quite make it, the leeches, malaria, rapids, unruly villagers, and dysentery are unrelenting and lethal, and history hasn't remembered the voyage as heroically as Lewis & Clark's.
The expedition's leaders, Doudart de Lagrée and Garnier, come off as intellectually curious and ambitious men, haughty yet respectful, courageous and tragic in serving France's dynastic aims. Their stoic behavior and writing -- according to Osborne who raked over their French journals and letters to write the book -- are impressive for the lack of complaints. More interestingly, the men and their expedition offer a rare and wild view of the people, cultures, rivalries and natural history along the Mekong. The mysterious river running through East Asia is a worthy supporting character in the book, and the records of then unprecedented visits to Angkor Wat and the simple villages and bustling cities of 19th-century Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and China are fascinating.
The expedition's leaders, Doudart de Lagrée and Garnier, come off as intellectually curious and ambitious men, haughty yet respectful, courageous and tragic in serving France's dynastic aims. Their stoic behavior and writing -- according to Osborne who raked over their French journals and letters to write the book -- are impressive for the lack of complaints. More interestingly, the men and their expedition offer a rare and wild view of the people, cultures, rivalries and natural history along the Mekong. The mysterious river running through East Asia is a worthy supporting character in the book, and the records of then unprecedented visits to Angkor Wat and the simple villages and bustling cities of 19th-century Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and China are fascinating.
December 12, 2025
Was a little skeptical when I picked this up that it might be dry and lack entertainment, but I was pleasantly surprised at just how good this story turned out to be. If you love exploration and stories of adventurers going into the unknown, this little known tale is just for you. Reminds me of as one reader said Undaunted Courage or for me similar to Candice Millard's The River of Doubt. Just great prose, story telling, history, and characters. Written in 1975 it remains a great read. Loved it!
May 29, 2021
Fascinating book, nice and short and some interesting stories.
September 21, 2022
Historically informative account of an exploration I previously knew nothing about. Not nearly as exciting as the reviews not he back cover would have one believe. Nevertheless, an interesting read
September 5, 2007
May Pinoy palang kasama sa Mekong explorers. Noon pa man, OFW na ang Pinoy.
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August 21, 2010good read, 1866 'trade' expedition to link China via the Mekong River
Displaying 1 - 8 of 8 reviews