Mickey Muñoz has been called the “surfer’s surfer,” and is loved and respected among the cognoscenti for his contributions to surfing and the surfing life for the past 60 years as a surfer, a pioneer of Waimea Bay, a stuntman (stand-in for Gidget), a board shaper and designer, and as a sailor and boatbuilder (America’s Cup). Mentored by the Malibu greats of the ’40s, and an influence on generations of surfers since, Mickey weaves the story of a California waterman using his own life and that of his friends.
This book greatly inspired me across many levels. Spiritually, mentally and physically. It reminds me to never lose your youth and passion in life, through the vessels we utilize to express our souls through nature with great mates.
The part about Flippy really moved me, and the description of his passing brought a tear to my eye. No bad waves, was like talking to one of the old boys, like taking to one of my uncles, hearing his stories about his youth and the wild things they got up to in his crafts.
I greatly appreciate the excellent photography and intricate descriptions of events. I only wish I was alive back in the 60’s to see these pioneering days up close. Feels so nostalgic. Thanks Munoz and Patagonia. One love
Easy read in small chunks with many short stories. Probably more sailing than surfing in the book. Gerry Lopez “Surf is Where You Find It” is better if you prefer more surfing