American Spirit: An Exploration of the Craft Distilling Revolution

by James Rodewald

Craft distilling has exploded in the United States in recent years, and this in-depth look at the intrepid characters at the forefront of the liquid revolution will have you rethinking what's in your liquor cabinet—and possibly your career choice. James Rodewald, a veteran journalist who spent more than a decade at Gourmet magazine, most of that time as Drinks Editor, traveled the country talking to the men and women at the heart of this remarkable industry about the challenges they face, the rewards of their hard work, and the delicious spirits they make. Along the way, myths are shattered, phonies are unmasked, and drinks-as well as a few tears-are spilled.

Genres: Nonfiction, History, Food

256 pages, Hardcover

First published September 2, 2014

Reviews

[Dylan Alpern · Rating 3 out of 5]

Writing is far from linear and feels very scatter brained. Also, as a craft distiller some of the information is inaccurate. However, for someone not in the industry I’d say there is some good information to be found.

[Leslie · Rating 4 out of 5]

I have been aware that a craft brewing industry existed for some time and enjoy sampling local beers at area restaurants, but until I read this book, I didn't know the same thing is now happening with spirits. While there was definitely a need for better and tastier beer, spirits, on the other hand, already had a wide variety of tasty offerings. So I wondered: Why the boom in craft distilling?

Author James Rodewald, former drinks editor for the now shuttered Gourmet magazine, shows us why the craft spirit industry is flourishing. In this unique book he takes us across America and introduces us to several dozen individuals who have chosen to start a distilling business - at times against great odds - and lets them tell their stories.

The book is broken into chapters by regional areas and profiles some of the stand-out businesses and their owners. Sprinkled throughout are photos, drink recipes and short asides with interesting tidbits of information.

It's fascinating that the industry thrives at all considering the mish-mash of laws governing the business. Regulations vary between states, and local ordinances can be challenging; a remnant of the prohibition era. Plus, the distillers are at a disadvantage when compared to beer and wine producers: laws are stricter, tastings are not allowed, and home distilling is illegal. One interesting observation was that almost every distiller was, at one time, a lawbreaker as most of them had to learn how to distill somewhere before they opened their businesses.

I was expecting this book to be more of a historical account about the world of craft distilling - its history, progress, and where we are today. Instead, I found a book about the people involved in the business rather than a linear history. We do learn about the business, but it is through individual experiences and personal stories; a book those interested in the subject are sure to enjoy.

[Harley Spiller · Rating 5 out of 5]

Cover to Cover, Man! Just finished squeezing every last sip outta American Spirit! I must confess I'm not much of a whiskey guy (too much Jack at frat parties), but you have demonstrated the vast complexity of making spirits and its interconnection with restaurants, farms, and beer and I'm looking forward to future tastes. This book is a true treatise on tasting and being a mindful consumer. I love the way Rodewald constructed the story, almost backwards, so we don't get the info that "distilling is an agricultural act" until page 180 (part of the best quotation in the book). He turns a phrase like a lathe: "follicular invincibility" / "great big beautiful wheat bacon booze circle of life" being particular faves. I believe the fellas when they say organic food has more flavor and aroma than non-organic, and need to taste some turkey rhubarb (how does it differ from standard rhubarb?) and what is Mr. Coale holding on page 140? It feels cool to be in the front car of the craft distilling scene and for that i thank the prescient and alluring author!

[Steve · Rating 4 out of 5]

If the 1980s were the decade when the craft beer movement took off, the current decade is the one where craft spirits hit it's stride. This brief and entertaining overview of the industry introduces you to the many players and their unique approaches to creating artisanal spririts including whiskey, gin and brandy as well as more obscure varieties. Interspersed with cocktail recipes, boxed-off asides and many photos, it is a fun and informative journey through the art and science of small-scale distillation.

[Jeff Karpinski · Rating 5 out of 5]

Must read for anyone thinking about getting into the craft spirits business.