Arctic Traverse: A Thousand-Mile Summer of Trekking the Brooks Range

by Michael Engelhard

A lyrical memoir that interweaves wilderness, homeland, cultural connections, historical figures, humor, and gritty experiences across northern Alaska, Arctic A Thousand-Mile Summer of Trekking the Brooks Range takes readers along on a once-in-a-lifetime journey. From the award-winning author of Ice The Cultural History of an Arctic Icon comes an intimate exploration of Alaska’s northernmost mountain range with observations on Indigenous cultures, conservation, and intense cross-country travel, all shaped by respect for the land. Follow author Michael Engelhard through tussock-studded tundra for a remarkable tale of bear encounters and white-knuckled river moments, as well as poetic reflections on a vast, untamed landscape. A trained anthropologist, Engelhard evokes classic writers like Edward Abbey, Barry Lopez, and Ellen Meloy with profound dives into human and natural history and vivid meditations on Alaskan wildlife, flora, and geology. When he embarked on this thru-hike, fewer people had completed it solo in a single push than had dived to the floor of the Mariana Trench, the deepest part of Earth’s oceans. Much more than a captivating account of a human-powered solo thru-hike and float, Arctic Traverse illuminates the spirit of Alaska, drawing on encounters with Indigenous elders, guided clients, scientists, and others as well as on Engelhard’s long-held dream and his experiences of the land itself.

Genres: Travel, Nature, Audiobook, Nonfiction, Adventure, Autobiography, Memoir

375 pages, Kindle Edition

First published April 2, 2024

Reviews

[Tiffany · Rating 3 out of 5]

The corny jokes in the middle were hard to get through, but I’m glad I stuck it out as I enjoyed the last part of the book more. Didn’t mind the political views as I agree with him.

[Reader · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great read. A lyrical account of Michael’s 1000-mile traverse of Alaska’s Brooks Range from the Canadian Border, in the east, to the small Arctic city of Kotzebue on the shores of the Chukchi Sea in the west. This is not just an account of adventure. Michael weaves ancient and more recent history, ethnology, biology, ecology and an environmental message into his story as you travel with him westward. Even after 50 years of guiding, all across the Brooks Range, I was surprised how much I learned myself in an area I thought I knew extensively.

[Patrice La Vigne · Rating 4 out of 5]

I’ve crossed paths with Michael Engelheart in Fairbanks, as fellow writers and authors in the travel and adventure genre often do. He’s published a handful of books, but this was my first read from him. I enjoyed how the book blends together historical, ecological, and biological education with Michael’s background and experiences. And of course he made me really really really want to explore the Brooks Range!

[Russ · Rating 4 out of 5]

Arctic Traverse is a compelling mix of personal adventure and literary reflection. What stood out most to me was the way Engelhard interweaves natural history—particularly about caribou—with meditations on the land, survival, and writing. He draws on a wide range of sources, including the works of Edward Abbey (can you believe he never saw a grizzly?) and other writers who have grappled with wilderness, and threads these ideas meaningfully through the trek itself.

This isn’t just a journal of miles walked—it’s a deeper, layered journey through time, ecology, and the author’s own evolving relationship with the Arctic. At times quiet and introspective, always honest, the book offers a thoughtful look at a place few people will ever travel, but many might wonder about.

[Pam · Rating 2 out of 5]

Did not finish. The flowery, overly descriptive writing obscured the adventure, making it too much of a chore to read.

[Nicole · Rating 5 out of 5]

"If we can't save the land, it cannot save us. But apart from our own requirements, wild landscapes and creatures exist with autonomy and their own right to thrive. We need an ethic reflective of this reality. In fact, we have such an ethic. The Muries, Bob Marshall, Aldo Leopold, and Rachel Carson laid it out for us. They're the elders who have shown us viable flight paths.

Posterity will not judge us by what we built or by what we amassed but by what we failed to do. Besides being flesh and blood, feathers and bones, sinew and spirit, cranes signify opportunities. They are bearers of hope, reminders that the worthiest journeys are journeys of daring. Do we dare to renounce one species' supremacy? Do we care to meet nature on nature's terms? Can we leave some places alone?"

[Max · Rating 4 out of 5]

A nice bit of travel writing, though a bit on the flowery side at times. I would have appreciated a more straight-forward account, but it's really a matter of taste. Entertaining enough. I also wasn't annoyed by the political views, as I agree with the author, you can't really ignore these problems anymore. Especially when you have been in the Arctic and have seen the effects of climate change with your own eyes.

[Weston Kiser · Rating 4 out of 5]

Started out as 3.5 stars but finished at 4. Great adventure book in some true wilderness. The book continually flips back and forth between recounting Michael’s trek in the Brooks range and educating the reader about history of Alaska, Alaskan flora & fauna, and the bleak future of Alaska in the face of climate change. I was expecting to read about a great trek across the Alaskan wilderness but left learning a lot more about Alaska north of the Arctic Circle

[Jena · Rating 2 out of 5]

Terribly disappointing, especially when approached with high hopes to learn more about a beloved area. I recognize that travel writing is fraught these days - especially in wild areas that need protection more than visitors. I came away having had my fill of snark and sarcastically flowery prose. Addressing the issues of climate change is important - especially as it pertains to the Arctic precisely because of the accelerated rate there. That message comes through over and over to the point where that is the premise of the book. It may be the reality and the central theme Engelhard brought home from his trek. It does not making for engaging reading or, more importantly, a clarion for action.

Additional note: Engelhard's issues with Coyote Air come across as petulant. Understandably frustrating when one is hungry and relying on the caches they can't find but not having exact coordinates or delivery times is something one ought to expect in the wild. The commentary on Dirk and Daniele read as a smear campaign. Too bad too, given all the work they do to support and take action to protect the Arctic both in terms of climate research and protective activism.

[Lynne · Rating 4 out of 5]

I appreciated being able to "traverse" the Brooks Range with the author and see the landscapes. I've been to three areas that he traveled through and can still feel my experiences. I also liked learning about the plants and animals he encountered and their special adaptations to exist in such an environment. This is very much a naturalist's and adventurer's book so if you've been to the Brooks Range or dreamed of an Alaskan trip, this might be the book for you. The eloquent and sometimes flowery language was sometimes too much for me, along with frequent quotes from philosophers or famous authors. I appreciated the map and would have loved more of them! Really enjoyed flipping back and forth from the map to the daily journal approach of this experience. I went on a trip with the company he worked for although he was not one of the guides on our trip. Sad to read of the complaints with one of the air services in the region as I've flown with them too and had a good experience. Reading this has made me want to visit Alaska again.

[Philip L · Rating 5 out of 5]

A memoir of Mr. Engelhard's traverse of Alaska's Brooks Range. He hikes the majority of it, from the Canadian border to the Noatak River. Then kayaks the Noatak to its end in the Chukchi Sea and Kotzebue. Hikes some of the most unforgiving terrane imaginable through the Artic National Wildlife Refuge, Gates of The Artic & The Noatak Wilderness. Encounters with grizzly bears, wild rivers, crazy weather & occasional indigenous peoples. Really enjoyed this book. Interesting because I came upon it just browsing through my favorite bookstores online site. Engelhard is a good writer, very conversational in his delivery. Enjoyed his rather dry humor at times, but that made it seem even more like you were having a casual conversation. This kind of writing (nature/adventure) can be rather dry at times, but he did not fall into that tussock (ha,ha,ha). Enjoyed the sidelines of arche0logy & history of the Brooks Range also. I'd recommend to anyone enjoying nature/adventure writing about one of the last remaining wildernesses on the North American continent.

[Richard C · Rating 5 out of 5]

As somebody who loves reading about exploration, this book reminded me of books from the golden age of exploration, when there weren't trails, and what lay ahead was unknown.

This book chronicles a 1,000 mile journey in true wilderness, with only one settlement in 60-days, few people, and lots of wildlife.

For me, the book made it clear about the importance of protecting the few wildplaces left on earth, as well as sharing the history of how these places were protected, and the indigenous culture that pervades this area.

A really fun read for those that love exploration.

[Kevin McElhaney · Rating 3 out of 5]

Would have loved a more interactive map that showed his path and the areas he traveled in that updated with the chapters. Found the book to be a bit flowery in its description. His anti-oil stances are juxtaposed to the ability to make this trip possible with his synthetic gear. As someone who has traveled within the North Slope oil fields and in the Brooks Range, the areas could not be more contrasted. One a majestic set of mountains, rivers, and valleys the other a set of pockmarked ponds breeding one trillion mosquitos a summer.

[Kasey Lawson · Rating 2 out of 5]

“Here was someone who was doing what I kept fantasizing about. About twenty years younger than I, he looked fit, unsurprisingly, but not deranged or inordinately tough. I see that he was no Superman, no Lewis or Clark, no Ernest Shackleton. He was simply a guy who had started to plan then followed through.
As on the bumper sticker a friend once mentioned to me, “Four out of the five voices in my head said, ‘Go for it!’” So I did.”

[Graham · Rating 5 out of 5]

A really outstanding adventure/hiking book about an epic trek through the Brooks Range. Engelhard is a very experienced guide, but also knows huge amounts about the history of arctic Alaska, the flora and fauna (especially birds), and the history of conservation in the region. He is clearly exceptionally well read and his bibliography provides a treasure-trove of further reading in all these subjects.

[Paul Hanson · Rating 2 out of 5]

Disappointing political overtones permeating the adventure. If no oil, no airplanes to supply the author’s desperate caches. Lovely description of wildlife and bear behaviors. Amazing journey. Negative outcome by this reader.

[Matt · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really enjoyed his structure of interspersing the narrative of his journey with short excurses on local history, geology, biology, etc. It made for an interesting read, and the narrator is a likable, knowledgeable, humble individual.

[Lauren · Rating 3 out of 5]

Another decent nature book. He didn’t focus too much on the endeavor of the traverse or trying to set a record or anything but really doubled down on the stream of consciousness experience of micro moments. Loved all the focus on weather and terrain and animals.

[Carlos Ramos · Rating 2 out of 5]

Damn I could just not get into it. Maybe I’m illiterate but it just wasn’t for me. Finished the Refuge and Highway sections and called it there. He does a good job of painting the picture and describing an area or experience. Definitely worth reading if you’re familiar with the area.

[David H · Rating 4 out of 5]

Engaging! I read the whole thing cover to cover. A great story.

[Fixie Nice · Rating 5 out of 5]

A really enjoyable read a adventure about a part of Alaska that has really intrigued me. Lots of vivid writing about the flora and fauna!

[Chip · Rating 4 out of 5]

I see the negative reviews but I don't see it. I really enjoyed this one. Has been the perfect companion to the dark and gloomy dog days of winter.

[Stevejs298 · Rating 3 out of 5]

Englehard provides a very honest accounting of his trek. I'm glad I was able to go along via his book because it is highly unlikely I'd ever take the trip myself.