A school tour operator pointed me in the direction of Dilys Powell whilst I was struggling to get a trip to Greece over the line. I'm very grateful she did. This beautifully written book offers a very welcome insight into the male-dominated world of early 20th C Aegean archaeology and scholarship. Though she is quick to remind us of her lack of qualifications and how inadequate she sometimes felt in this milieu, it is very clear that she was an outstanding judge and commentator on humanity (and you only need look at how successful she herself became).
We see many of the great and the good here, including the usual suspects of Sir Arthur Evans, Sinclair Hood, John Pendlebury, Alan Wace, but more importantly we see the hardships of a local Greek community on the remote peninsula of Perachora trying (largely in vain) to exploit the opportunities offered by the discovery of an important archaeological site that drew the eyes of the world, for a time. Powell is deeply sensitive to them and, it's clear to see, the sentiments were returned, and not just to her. Powell's husband - Humfry Payne - was one of the rising stars of the discipline. A young director of the British School at Athens and the lead archaeologist of the heraion at Perachora in the early 20th C, he died tragically young of a bacterial infection that would easily have been remedied today. Sadly, the medicine despatched to him from England arrived a week too late and Payne was buried in the cemetery at Mycenae, which he deeply loved. After visiting Mycenae myself and staying at a local hotel, the very knowledgeable owner Vassiliki confirmed just how much he was loved. In fact, her grandfather was at Payne's bedside when he died.
Despite this tragedy, which readers can sense in the way it seems to make Powell wince as her reminiscences get too close (despite the passage of the years), and despite the deprivations of the war years, this is somehow still an optimistic, gorgeous book and does justice to the timeless beauty of Greece and the irrepressible spirit of the Greeks.