From dal to samosas, paneer to vindaloo, dosa to naan, Indian food is diverse and wide-ranging―unsurprising when you consider India’s incredible range of climates, languages, religions, tribes, and customs. Its cuisine differs from north to south, yet what is it that makes Indian food recognizably Indian, and how did it get that way? To answer those questions, Colleen Taylor Sen examines the diet of the Indian subcontinent for thousands of years, describing the country’s cuisine in the context of its religious, moral, social, and philosophical development.
Exploring the ancient indigenous plants such as lentils, eggplants, and peppers that are central to the Indian diet, Sen depicts the country’s agricultural bounty and the fascination it has long held for foreign visitors. She illuminates how India’s place at the center of a vast network of land and sea trade routes led it to become a conduit for plants, dishes, and cooking techniques to and from the rest of the world. She shows the influence of the British and Portuguese during the colonial period, and she addresses India’s dietary prescriptions and proscriptions, the origins of vegetarianism, its culinary borrowings and innovations, and the links between diet, health, and medicine. She also offers a taste of Indian cooking itself―especially its use of spices, from chili pepper, cardamom, and cumin to turmeric, ginger, and coriander―and outlines how the country’s cuisine varies throughout its many regions.
Lavishly illustrated with one hundred images, Feasts and Fasts is a mouthwatering tour of Indian food full of fascinating anecdotes and delicious recipes that will have readers devouring its pages.
Colleen Taylor Sen is a Chicago-based author and culinary historian. Her articles have appeared in The Chicago Tribune, Travel and Leisure, Food Arts, Chicago Sun Times, Yoga International, The Hindu, and many other publications. She is the author of six books, including Food Culture in India; Curry: A Global History; Turmeric: The Wonder Spice; A Guide to Indian Restaurant Menus; Street Food Around the World: An Encyclopedia of Food and Culture (with Bruce Kraig, and, most recently, Feasts and Fasts: A History of Food in India. Colleen Sen has a B.A. and M.A. from University of Toronto and a Ph.D. from Columbia University.
Food is an important part of who we are as a species. One of the things that set humans apart from all other creatures is the ability to indulge in agriculture and to cook. Indian cuisine is pretty popular around the world, and one reason for this is that it has borrowed heavily from other cuisines and has also given a lot back. Learning more about the history of food in India is an intriguing idea, especially in view of the current political scenario where people want to tell other people what and how to eat.
Feasts and Fasts: A History of Food in India is definitely a book that is meant for food lovers. If you want to know where and how your favourite dish originated, you might want to read this book. The author appears to be in love with Indian food and has written several books on this subject. This, however, is her first one the history of food.
Sen divides the book into different historical periods and shows how technological progress as well as outside cultural influences through trade, war, and marriage, helped shaped our food culture. Starting from the beginning of agriculture, Sen takes us on a journey through the food habits of this region till the White Revolution. Religious influences have always been quite heavy on food culture and this phenomenon is also explored thoroughly in the book.
Recommended for anyone interested in history, India, or food, or more specifically, the history of Indian food.
Food and history are two of my abiding passions in life, so seeing this book at the Delhi Book Fair, I couldn’t help but pounce on it. It’s taken me nearly a year since I bought it to get around to reading it, but it’s proved worthy of the wait. A book for both the historian as well as the gastronome.
Colleen Taylor Sen is a food historian, and this book—a daunting task, I would have thought, considering India’s impressive geographic spread (and concomitant diversity of cuisines) as well as India’s very long history as a civilization—is a testament to her knowledge. Both the depth and the width of her knowledge, plus, of course, the obviously vast amount of research that she’s done for this book.
Feasts and Fasts: A History of Food in India covers just about every aspect of food in India: the regional variations, the main ingredients (even region-wise and state-wise), main techniques used, dietary restrictions, agricultural production, health and food, and the food of the Indian diaspora (including histories of how so many thousands of Indians ended up across the world). From the Caribbean to Singapore, from Africa to the US and UK. There are insights into modern trends in Indian food, how Indian food has influenced other cuisines, as well as related aspects, like recent changes—over the past decade or so—in food habits.
The bulk of the book, and what really makes this book shine, is the engrossing and immensely entertaining (not to mention informative) history of the food itself. What did people in the Indus Valley Civilization eat? How did they cook it? What were Charak’s ideas on food and health? What do the Puranas and the Vedas and other much-respected works say about food, its consumption, and its preparation? How did interactions with other lands change Indian eating habits? How did the coming of the Muslims to India, for instance, change the Indian food scene forever?
Taylor Sen fills the book with delightful trivia and loads of interesting information—some of it outright astonishing (I did not realize, for instance, that in ancient India it was quite common to cook meats in fruit juices, and that desserts made from meat were not unknown. I also had no idea that the wealthy commonly used musk, camphor and ambergris to scent foods). There are mind-boggling descriptions of feasts from the Ramayana, from Mughal India, and from the table of one of the Indian princes of the princely states of Raj-era India. There is an ode to paan by Amir Khusro; there are recipes, there are reproductions of paintings, illustrations, menu cards, and more. There are photos and maps.
My only complaint with this book (the typos are minor and forgivable) was that the size of some of the more detailed images—the maps, for instance, and the Mughal miniatures—is too small to allow for their appreciation.
Other than that, though, a treasure. Very readable, plus great reference material.
And yes, I finally discovered why sugar is also called chini and why misri is called that.
This is by fair the best historical writing on food, cooking, culture etc. The stories evolves and are so vivid that you would be able to visualize the era. What an amazing read... would re-read again..
Credit where it is due, The author has gone to impressive and far ranging depths to capture the quintessential diversity and complexity of food in the India that was and the India that is. To a complete novice in Indian Cooking and food, this book would serve a wonderful purpose of acting as a crash course on diversity and history of food and its various approaches and influences.
However, there are parts of the story that do not very well conform to, or, maybe, do justice to topics.
I think that this book is a decent introductory read for a Non-Indian into the world of Indian Cooking and food, but, to a native and someone possessing keenness and basic know-how for Indian cooking, this might not live up to the expectation. Which, I must say, is not a bad thing.
The topic is vast and binding it together in a readable and organised single volume is not an easy task. Done good.
An extremely interesting, easy to read historical overview of one of the most basic tenets of life - food. For a curious soul, questions as simple as - why do we eat what we eat? where did these come from? how has the geography, religion, politics etc impacted our eating habits - can be mind boggling. The book will shake some of our beliefs especially on the ever controversial topic of meat eating in India.
well researched, does not bias on a particular part of India as some other attempts on writing about cultural history books on India. I would have preferred some more information about the history of current foods rather than a full blown cultural explanation which seems redundant and self conflicting at times. But a good easy read that would make nice cocktail conversation points.
This most wonderful book offers a rich and expansive exploration of India's culinary history, weaving together elements of culture, religion, trade, and geography to show how food has played a pivotal role in shaping Indian society over millennia. As one of the most diverse and culturally complex nations in the world, India’s food traditions are equally multifaceted, and Sen's book serves as a comprehensive guide to understanding them.
The book contains the following chapters:
1. Climate, Crops and Prehistory 2. The Age of Ritual, 1700–1100 BCE 3. The Renunciant Tradition and Vegetarianism, 1000–300 BCE 4. Global India and the New Orthodoxy, 300 BCE–500 CE 5. New Religious Trends and Movements: Feasting and Fasting, 500–1000 CE 6. Food and Indian Doctors, 600 BCE–600 CE 7. The Middle Ages: The Manasolassa, Lokopakara and Regional Cuisines, 600–1300 CE 8. The Delhi Sultanate: Ni’matnama, Supa Shastra and Ksemakutuhalam, 1300–1550 9. The Mughal Dynasty and its Successors, 1526–1857 10. The Europeans, the Princes and their Legacy, 1500–1947 11. An Overview of Indian Cuisine: The Meal, Cooking Techniques and Regional Variations 12. New Trends in Indian Food, 1947–Present 13. The Food of the Indian Diaspora
The book is divided into multiple sections that span the breadth of Indian history, from ancient civilizations to contemporary times. Sen explores food in India not just as sustenance but as a social and cultural practice, a tool for identity, and even a symbol of power and status. The book touches on a wide range of themes, from the influence of religion on dietary practices, to the impact of colonialism on food systems, to the modern-day role of food in India’s economic and cultural landscape.
Sen approaches the topic of Indian food history in a chronological manner, examining key periods in history, including the rise of Indian kingdoms, the impact of Islamic rule, British colonialism, and the post-independence era. She also delves into the regional and community-specific food practices, showing how local ingredients, cooking techniques, and rituals have evolved over time.
The book begins with a look at India’s ancient civilizations, such as the Indus Valley, where food was an essential part of daily life. Sen discusses early agricultural practices and the staple foods of these civilizations. She then moves on to the religious influence of Hinduism, Jainism, and Buddhism, all of which shaped dietary choices, including vegetarianism and fasting practices.
A significant portion of the book is dedicated to the Mughal Empire’s contributions to Indian cuisine. The Mughals introduced new cooking techniques, such as the use of spices, that would leave an indelible mark on Indian food. The fusion of Persian, Turkish, and Indian flavors gave birth to iconic dishes like biryani and kebabs. Sen also explores the way Islamic dietary laws influenced food practices across the subcontinent.
The arrival of the British in India transformed the country’s food systems, and Sen highlights the ways in which colonialism affected both food production and consumption. She details how British influence introduced new foods and altered Indian agricultural practices. The British also reshaped India’s food economy, leading to the commercialization of certain crops like tea, coffee, and opium, which were then exported globally.
After India’s independence, food became an important part of the nation’s identity. Sen examines the role of food in post-colonial India’s development, where traditional dishes and regional specialties were reinvigorated as symbols of cultural pride. This section also looks at food in contemporary Indian society, where globalization, urbanization, and the rise of multinational food chains have changed the eating habits of many Indians.
One of the strengths of Sen’s book is her detailed exploration of regional food practices. India is a land of incredible culinary diversity, with each state and community offering its own unique flavors and methods of preparation. Sen takes the reader on a tour of these regional differences, from the fiery curries of the South to the rich, creamy gravies of the North. She also addresses how food varies within religious communities, exploring the practices of Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs, and Christians, and how they influence dietary restrictions and cooking traditions.
The strengths of this book includes:
Comprehensive Approach: Sen does an excellent job of covering the history of food in India from both macro and micro perspectives. The book doesn’t just look at food from a historical lens but also delves into the social, cultural, and political ramifications of food choices and practices.
Interdisciplinary Exploration: The author skillfully integrates anthropology, history, sociology, and religion to paint a well-rounded picture of how food has influenced Indian society. The way she connects food practices to larger socio-political movements, such as the British Empire’s role in shaping the food economy, adds depth to the narrative.
Regional Diversity: Sen’s attention to regional food differences is one of the book’s highlights. She provides in-depth discussions of how local environments, climates, and cultures have shaped food traditions in various parts of India, giving readers a more nuanced understanding of the country’s culinary diversity.
Rich Anecdotes and Stories: Throughout the book, Sen includes captivating anecdotes and stories that help bring the history of Indian food to life. These personal narratives, whether about royal kitchens or humble street food vendors, make the academic material more engaging and relatable.
As far as the weaknesses of thgis book is concerned, it must be pointed out, to begin with, that the detailed approach of the book can be overwhelming at times, especially for readers unfamiliar with Indian history or food traditions. Secondly, for a book about food, it might be surprising that there are no recipes included. While the historical and cultural contexts are richly explored, some readers might have expected to see more practical applications of the food discussed, especially given how much attention is paid to the preparation and ingredients of Indian cuisine.
To conclude, this is an outstanding work for anyone interested in the history of food, particularly in the context of India’s rich and diverse cultural landscape. Colleen Taylor Sen combines history, sociology, and anthropology to create a thorough and thoughtful examination of how food has shaped and been shaped by India’s complex history. Although the academic depth and lack of practical recipes might make it less accessible to some, it remains an invaluable resource for scholars, food enthusiasts, and anyone with a deep curiosity about the intersection of culture and cuisine in India.
For readers who are not only interested in food but in the broader cultural, political, and religious forces that shape the way we eat, this book is a must-read. It provides a perspective on Indian cuisine that goes beyond the plate, making it an essential addition to the literature on food history.
Written more like a PhD thesis, less like a book, there is a lot of content in every line. Starts with describing the food during Indus Valley Civilization, in the Vedas, during Mahabharata and Ramayana, Colleen covers influence of every major religion and every major foreign invader on Indian cuisines. Many of these influences continue to appear on our plates even now.
Couple of interesting takeaways from this book: 1. India was largely non-vegetarian until the turn of the Millenium. Animal sacrifice was common. Religions like Buddhism and Jainism heavily influenced other religions to moved away from meat-based diets. Also, the majority of modern India is non-vegetarian (around 75%).
2. Alcohol also had been part of ancient Indian food and finds a lot of mention in the Vedas (Soma), in Arthashastra and in medical books by Charaka and Sushrut.
3. Garlic was a particularly hated ingredient, not just by Jains, but by Hindus and other castes. And because of this, it is rarely mentioned in the ancient cookbooks.
4. A lot of ingredients that are in use in a modern-day Indian kitchen were actually brought to India by foreign travellers. Eg. potato, carrot, pineapple, chillies, tea, coffee, several fruits, etc. were all brought to India from different parts of the world across many centuries. So there's nothing really "Indian" anymore about the food we eat.
5. India has also contributed to cuisines around the world, mainly due to the Indian labour that was used in plantations around the world (Caribbean, Portugal, Mauritius, Fiji), who settled and married there and continued cooking Indian food.
This book will help you look deeper into the food you eat and will make you appreciate the huge diversity of Indian cuisine.
This review will be a short and unorganised one until I have time to put down more thoughts.
This is an ambitious book that can be hard to digest if you're totally unfamiliar with either Indian history or geography. I thoroughly respect the author for the sheer amount of research and efforts she went through and that she managed to organised it as a book-- though I have to say a lot of the stuffs in the book feel less like "a history" but more like "a chronicle of food in various places of India" with fun facts or anecdotes to smoothen the feeling of reading an academic thesis. It would help if you already have basic understanding about Indian food, because the author would name a ancient food in literature and compares it with a modern one -- neither of whom would I have any clue.
The fundamental disadvantage of the book could be that it's written in English, which is linguistically poor in food and cooking vocabularies. Most of the Indian dishes, when translated to English, have simplified to curries or stews. The cooking techniques are hard to visualise or imagine, when it's more or less the same, "cooked with gee" or "boil in milk"or "grill on charcoal", to which I think other languages may have more descriptive words to depict the "subtle" difference between dishes. From a native Mandarin Chinese speaker's point of view, I believe it could be the limit of the English language, since the cooking style is far too different from English tradition -- Chinese cooking vocabularies may be more extensive but we have very little baking tradition, so it would also be disastrous for us to introduce European breads and pastries.
On the other hand, the variation of the spelling of places and foods didn't help... It's very confusing if one food is spelled differently or wrongly in different chapters, or if the spelling used in the book is different from what you can find on Google search result.
The book is more academic than the title suggests, both in writing style and content. It's definitely worth a read if you're interested in the subject, just that you should be prepared that there's a lot to digest. I can imagine how difficult it was for the author to write this book, since India is historically a diverse, loosely or briefly united (if ever was) land. Its nationality is arguably a relatively new thing for its people, too.
I probably sound too harsh in this review. I did gain a lot of insights of general Indian history, food and culture, and have become more familiar with the land after reading this book. I particularly like the chapter on how Indian food influenced European cuisines during the years of colonisation, and how the widely known and recognised Indian butter-chicken is actually a relatively new invention by a Pakistani restauranteur who settled in Deli. I also like that the author went through a great numbers of classic literatures to give us a recap on food scenes back in a particular era.
A sensational, mouthwatering, révélation of Indian food. An exemplary treat to the Foodie Soul, with iconic regional recipes and dishes decoded for their brilliant use of spices across the sub-continent. Be ready to gain a kilo or two with the samosas, Pani puris, chettinad chicken, Salan, Madras fish curry, Dhal Bhati Churma, Gonkura chutney, Bisi Bêle bath, dhoklas, goan coconut prawn curry, biryani, puttu, pulaos and endless other delicacies constantly instituting food cravings. When you are halfway through, trust me an Indian will start craving for street food back home. It is great to discover one's own food through another perspective. The book is all praise for the ingenious way in which Indian food has been designed from ahead ago and how it is a direct reflection of the culture. The so called modern concept of "Neutraceutical" has been imbibed into Indian food millineniums before the actual term was even coined by scientists.
The most captivating phrase of the book for me: Related is the growing popularity of vegetarianism, perhaps India’s greatest gift to the world, for ethical, humane and health reasons.
This book is among the first few that I picked while I was still developing an interest in food history. It is fairly researched, and has an extensive bibliography. I did not enjoy reading it as as much as I had expected. There are areas where the information is somewhat inaccurate, repetitive, and does not tie in a global thought or conclusion. The writing is straightforward, but wordy. Certain sections are more enjoyable particularly the later chapters.
I wish the pictures were of better quality.
Overall it gives a decent account of food history through time in the Indian subcontinent, although did not feel like a spectacular one.
A book that needs to be digested while read. An extremely comprehensive history of the prevalent, concurrent, emergent food trends in the Indian subcontinent parallel to the changing histories which the subcontinent experienced over more than 3000 years. The book is food for thought and it kept me hungry all the while I consumed it for sure! A delectable, heavy read! Enjoyed every page.
Just couldn't put this one down. History and food are interwoven and the author plays this very well in the book. Filled with historical accounts of India and the way history and kingdoms influence the local food is just amazing to learn. The South of India was not dealt with in much detail. Kudos to the author for having done a lot of research for this book
With colorful historic images, some poetry and a few ancient recipes, the book begins with the prehistoric era, moves on to regional influences, the arrival of Marco Polo in 1292, the development of regional variations, the Partition of India in 1947, and the creation of Tandoori Chicken (a relative newcomer).
An excellent interweaving of Culinary History and History of the sub-continent. Has a few minor errors, but nothing egregious. I especially liked the chapters on food and history of colonial contact and the one on cuisine of the Indian diaspora. A comprehensive, but quick read.
Very thoroughly researched and put together. Slightly disappointed with the focus mainly being north of Ganges. Not an easy to read book as the chapters tend to get slightly monotonous, but that’s expected from this kind of a research base factual book.
A survey of 10000 years of culinary tradition, Colleen Sen works on as broad a canvas as any and takes pains to go wide and deep. A must read if you wanna learn about Indian food and the origins of Indian food
Fantastic. Loved every page of the book. Not just a history of food India, but a history of India told through food. As an Indian it has given me a greater appreciation of the diverse cuisines developed in a single subcontinent.
भारतीय खाने एवं व्यंजनों की सटीक ऐतिहासिक व्याख्या करती हुई यह किताब प्रादेशिक खाने की उत्त्पति एवं उस व्यंजन का विश्व के अनेक हिस्सों से संबंध बताती है । खाने और खिलाने के शौकीन पाठको के लिया उम्दा किताब
Every page of this book is a revelation. Thoroughly enjoyable. I just felt that the author could have delved a bit deeper about some of the things she discusses. I savoured every page of this book like I would every bite of a dish.
Wonderful book with lots of exposure regarding food eaten during olden days. But very few recipes also which are not cooking friendly. Though loved reading it
At times it feels too drawn out and at other times it feels rushed. Also, I caught atleast one mistake in the book and after that I wasn’t sure of the facts mentioned in the books anymore.
The book is well researched and insightful. Author has taken us deep inside the food culture and how it begin in India. Colleen Taylor Sen has not just splattered light upon food culture but has covered the history too. From early 6500 BCE to 2000, you will find all the changes that has happened in India and how Indian food has become a world cuisine. The author has done a deep exploration on Indian cuisine along with religious, moral and philosophical aspects that adds so much depth to the indian culture. Author has shared early history, seasons in India, rituals, traditions, new changes, and how each religion in India has different food cuisines. Not just that, Author keeps doing experiments with food, if you are someone who keeps looking for new and healthy recipes, follow the author on instagram and facebook
I learned about rituals, traditions, fasts, regional cuisines and history of food in India. Food holds so much value and it connects us to our deeper selves. “We are what we eat and we eat what we are”. Ayurveda adds so much importance on the food and it encompasses an approach which gives us insight of food. It’s essential to have a knowledge about it. Digestion is important too. While fasting improves metabolism and fasting in India is also a form of devotion towards gods and deities. Author has shared about festivals in India and how food is offered to gods. Satvik food plays an essential role. There were also insights about offerings in hinduism. Author has shared deep knowledge of non-veg food too. You will find some veg and non-veg recipes too in this book. So, if you are curious to learn about food culture in India, read this book.
loved the varied context it provides to our everyday khana and i did pick up a whole new understanding of lexicon .... viz 'chini' or sugar in hindi being a reference to the place where sugar was first derived. A rare gem of a read and a must for anyone trying to make sense of indian food habits and how they have evolved.
Food and history are the two things that top my list when I travel. Recently, while rediscovering the food scene in Delhi, my curiosity about the history and evolution of food in India was awakened. This book was exactly what I expected it to be: a through journey through history and gastronomy. It reads a little dry and would retain the interest of only fans of history.