Some Wear Leather, Some Wear Lace: The Worldwide Compendium of Postpunk and Goth in the 1980s

by Andi Harriman, Marloes Bontje

It was a scene that had many names: some original members referred to themselves as punks, others, new romantics, new wavers, the bats, or the morbids. “Goth” did not gain lexical currency until the late 1980s. But no matter what term was used, “postpunk” encompasses all the incarnations of the 1980s alternative movement. Some Wear Leather, Some Wear Lace is a visual and oral history of the first decade of the scene. Featuring interviews with both the performers and the audience to capture the community on and off stage, the book places personal snapshots alongside professional photography to reveal a unique range of fashions, bands, and scenes.

A book about the music, the individual, and the creativity of a worldwide community rather than theoretical definitions of a subculture, Some Wear Leather, Some Wear Lace considers a subject not often covered by academic books. Whether you were part of the scene or are just fascinated by different modes of expression, this book will transport you to another time and place.

Genres: Music, Nonfiction, Goth, Fashion, History, Gothic, Photography

216 pages, Paperback

First published July 15, 2014

Reviews

[Emily · Rating 5 out of 5]

If you're looking for a book on the history of the goth scene, you'll find this woefully incomplete. However, it excels as a photographic record of how goth and postpunk fashion was actually worn in the 1980s. From a primary resource and fashion history perspective, this book is EXCELLENT.

My favorite photographic spread is a series of headshots that show the progression in one person's personal style from the early 1980s through the early 1990s because it's a fascinating look at the evolution of a style as worn by one person. However, all of the street snaps and candid photos create a better representation of this fashion than highly posed photographs like album covers, curated fashion exhibitions, or artist's renditions ever could. Many of the photographs are blurry or overexposed, but it feels lived in an authentic way.

The text is a helpful addition to that, but serves mostly to reinforce the images, add context, and create a more complete timeline and geographic context.

[Teo · Rating 4 out of 5]

Loved all the pictures! Doesn't offer much in depth info about the subculture, as it seems to focus on the fashion, but its good for what it is. Was cool that goth scenes from countries other than the UK, US and Germany were included. Particularly cool some Yugoslavian ones were mentioned. Would recommend for anyone who wants a light and fast read with nice pictures, about the subculture

[Nina Misson · Rating 5 out of 5]

Some Wear Leather, Some Wear Lace is an absolutely brilliant compendium. The inclusion of interviews with not only performers, designers etc. but also the audience, the fans, is simply genius. The photo material is a joy to look at. It was also nice to be able to read something of the Ex-Yugo scene for example, which is usually not included (authors mostly focus on the UK, Germany and USA, for the obvious reasons, but nonetheless ... ). I only wish there were another 200 pages (or more!) to read and look through, I'm hooked!

[Scarecrow Joe · Rating 4 out of 5]

Mostly a picture book with some interesting commentary here and there. It does accurately capture a very interesting and poorly documented time as well as pose some thought provoking questions. All-in-all a very enjoyable read especially if you are seeking more information on a somewhat esoteric subculture.

The pictures themselves make it worth the purchase.

Interesting side-fact: the cover model: Tory Starbuck, is from my city and I’ve met him twice.

[Sara Carretero · Rating 5 out of 5]

Leí este libro a principios de año y olvidé por completo reseñarlo.

Si bien es cierto que no habla en profundidad de la subcultura gótica per se (y que a mí me interesaba especialmente), sí que indaga en temas como la moda o la música.
Algo que me parece de 10 es que el libro está plagado de fotos, tanto de gente anónima perteneciente a la subcultura como de artistas que conformaron el movimiento, incluso a pesar de hacer un viaje del gótico a nivel internacional, se pueden encontrar fotos de "Alaska y los Pegamoides" o "Parálisis Permanente", que fueron importantísimos en en panorama gótico español.

Recomendadísimo para los interesados en el gótico y su estética ♡

[Kristen Pesta · Rating 5 out of 5]

Such a cool visual history of goths in the 1980s!

[Drew · Rating 2 out of 5]

Not really a book. A compilation of pics from the 1980s of people with wacky haircuts. The spare text seems to be familiar with some of the big names in goth and postpunk music, but the focus of this book is almost entirely on fashion. In fact, I wonder if the text was translated from another language, it's as ephemeral and lightweight as a 4AD album cover subject. They do touch briefly on goth/grufti scenes in other countries like Japan, West Germany and the Netherlands. I kinda was hoping for a little more insight on lesser-known bands. But, 4+ pages of winklepicker boots, men's and women's! And Siouxsie. And Patricia Morrison. That was worth the two stars.

[Rachel Pollock · Rating 4 out of 5]

Another addition to the growing shelf of subcultural studies books focusing on postpunk/goth, this one attempting to document it as a worldwide phenomenon. I found the section on gruftis in the DDR and other Eastern Bloc countries most fascinating, as i had a "Waver" penpal in a small East German town in the mid-80s, so it was interesting and upsetting to read about the Stasi's persecution of those kids. Lots of fantastic photographs, and it's fun to see names i recognize in the Kickstarter backer credits.

[David Thomas · Rating 5 out of 5]

This would make a great coffee table book. It's got a good number of essays about the history of dark music in the 80's not just in America, but around the world. The real draw though is the photos of the post-punks and goths, showcasing the elaborate hair and makeup and distinctive fashion. There's a whole chapter dedicated just to examples of the trademark winklepicker boots.

[Casey Kiser · Rating 5 out of 5]

4 1/2 stars.

[Jessica · Rating 4 out of 5]

The photographs are beautiful, and the printing quality is excellent. Now I have so many bands I need to check out.

[Shantaya · Rating 2 out of 5]

There are some cool pictures, which is the point of coffee table type book. The downside is the exerts of information don’t have much to offer.

[Willow Rankin · Rating 2 out of 5]

Its not that I didn't like this exceedingly indepth review of the Goth movement in the 80s, its just that it was incredibly repetitive, with naming the same 4 bands throughout.
I have to say as a worldwide compendium - more details on the other countries (barr the UK and a few in Europe) would of been fascinating, and whilst the conclusion alludes to the fact that all these similar Goth subcultures sprang into being separately not much is made of the why.
Further, the where the goth subculture came from was not very well developed.
Having said all that, the photography element was fantastic - so many absolutely fantastic photos of genuine goths from around the world were included, and as an photography book this is excellent.
What I wanted was a bit more "meat on the bones" and so could've done with a bit more exploration of some of the themes raised and a bit more detail on lesser known bands would of helped.

[JNY · Rating 5 out of 5]

Boek over de Gothic en Post-Punk scene in de jaren 80 dat niet zo zeer de focus legt op puur informatief te zijn maar eerder fragmenten laat zien van deze subcultuur doormiddel van foto’s en geschreven stukjes over bands, mensen op straat of in clubs. Zowel bekende plekken als onbekende bands worden aangehaald en er is een goede mix aan foto’s te zien die of door professionele fotografen gemaakt zijn of wat meer gruizige foto’s die door amateurs zijn gemaakt.

Super tof tijdsdocument!

⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Absolute aanrader als je van deze subcultuur houdt.

[corvus . nox · Rating 5 out of 5]

najlepsza książka o gotyku, która powstała. polecam każdemu, kto chociaż trochę interesuje się tematem, pozwoliła mi ona chociaż trochę poczuć na nowo smak lat 80 i vibe zniszczony obecnie przez internetowa społeczność tiktoka (glad, że chociaż lokalna scena ma się dobrze). z niektórymi przeżyciami, nawet moja dupa, w wielkim 2025, pozwoliła sobie "zrelować". absolutny peak, więcej takich poproszę na rynku... a zdjęcia.. o panie...ile inspiracji

[Ultramarinedream · Rating 5 out of 5]

Gorgeous photos and writeups. I discovered a lot of bands I hadn't heard of otherwise (a band known as 'the Hungarian Depeche Mode', for starters!) It was an awesome read, recommended to anyone interested in subcultures, goth & postpunk.

[Joana Diniz · Rating 5 out of 5]

I enjoyed the interviews, that let me know the postpunks and especially the goths way of life in the 1980s. the book doesn't focus only in the UK scene, but refers also others countries like Japan and Germany.

[Denise Salazar · Rating 5 out of 5]

A dark journey down memory lane....a wonderful look at the music subcultures of the 1980s.

[Charlie · Rating 3 out of 5]

It felt like the book could've gone a bit more in-depth, but it was still interesting to read and look at.

[Nathalie · Rating 2 out of 5]

Missing photos of my friends.

[Lance · Rating 4 out of 5]

I loved it until the last couple of pages when it turned into “these kids today” and got kind of goth gatekeepy. The rest of the book was great.

[april violet · Rating 3 out of 5]

A bit sparse on info, but still a decent overview of international goth scenes. I enjoyed the photos.

[Satya Allen · Rating 2 out of 5]

Provides great photographs and physical media that can be analyzed, however, it follows the dreadful conclusion that goth reaches its end in the late 80s and lacks any unique dialogue.

[Tan · Rating 3 out of 5]

Great pictures, insufficient information.

[Mills College Library]

306.1 H297 2014

[Patty · Rating 5 out of 5]

It's like high school all over again!

[Angela · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wonderful book covering the 80s goth movement across the globe. Pictures were fantastic. The text could have offered a bit more.

[Beth]

(Available online via CML...)

[Femke · Rating 3 out of 5]

Hmmmm goth

[Aj · Rating 4 out of 5]

awesome photos of the goth scene. guaranteed to cause nostalgia.