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Everest 1953: The Epic Story of the First Ascent [Paperback] [Jan 01, 2013] Conefrey; Mick
On the morning of 2 June 1953, the day of Queen Elizabeth’s coronation, the first news broke that Everest had finally been conquered. Drawing on first-hand interviews and unprecedented access to archives, this is a ground-breaking new account of that extraordinary first ascent. Revealing that what has gone down in history as a supremely well-planned expedition was actually beset by crisis and controversy, Everest 1953 recounts a bygone age of self-sacrifice and heroism, using letters and personal diaries to reveal the immense stress and heartache the climbers often hid from their fellow team members. Charting how the ascent affected the original team in subsequent years and detailing its immense cultural impact today, 'Everest 1953' is the perfect book to commemorate this remarkable feat of the human will.
400 pages, Paperback
First published March 12, 2013
76 people are currently reading
979 people want to read
About the author
Mick Conefrey
19 books47 followersMick Conefrey is the author of the award-winning Adventurer’s Handbook and How to Climb Mont Blanc in a Skirt. An internationally recognised filmmaker, he has produced several BBC documentaries on mountaineering and exploration, including The Race for Everest. He lives in north Oxford with his family.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 124 reviews
June 9, 2021
Very informative and engaging read, for some reason I really like adventure books happy endings or not quite so happy. This was very well written and I've even more intruiged to read more books like this.
October 21, 2013
I wanted to read this book because I had read Wade Davis' epic "Into The Silence" earlier this year and wanted to understand why it had taken almost 50 years from Mallory and Irvine's near miss (or possibly not) to Hillary and Tenzing's triumph in 1953. That question is answered in the first couple of chapters and what follows is a very clear and well organised account of the 1953 expedition and its immediate precursors. The author manages the difficult task of building tension as move towards a climax of which we are already well aware.
I enjoyed this book enormously; it is a book for general readers rather than climbing enthusiasts (although they will enjoy it too. Unlike "Into The Silence" it, thankfully does not spend too long on the journey to the mountains. What struck me most was that very little had changed between the twenties and the fifties; the organisations at home in Britain seemed as stuffy as ever; the technology, particularly in relation to oxygen was almost unchained; and the enthusiastic amateurism was still the rule, rather than the exception.
Highly recommended.
I enjoyed this book enormously; it is a book for general readers rather than climbing enthusiasts (although they will enjoy it too. Unlike "Into The Silence" it, thankfully does not spend too long on the journey to the mountains. What struck me most was that very little had changed between the twenties and the fifties; the organisations at home in Britain seemed as stuffy as ever; the technology, particularly in relation to oxygen was almost unchained; and the enthusiastic amateurism was still the rule, rather than the exception.
Highly recommended.
June 4, 2017
סיפורה המלא של המשלחת שהצליחה להעפיל לפסגת אוורסט לראשונה. כולל הפוליטיקה הפנימית והעולמית שהתרחשה סביב.
ספר מרתק שגורם להעריך את המטפסים ומעורר חשק לטפס על ההרים. מטבע הדברים היו הרבה אנשים מעורבים במשלחת ולפעמים קשה לעקוב אחרי כולם.
ספר מרתק שגורם להעריך את המטפסים ומעורר חשק לטפס על ההרים. מטבע הדברים היו הרבה אנשים מעורבים במשלחת ולפעמים קשה לעקוב אחרי כולם.
February 1, 2019
An excellent book including archive material which only came to light many years later. The chapters on the summit assaults are thrilling, but the whole thing including the 1951 and 1952 preparatory expeditions, the change of leadership and all the aftermath are also very interesting.
September 16, 2020
Well researched, fair, and fascinating. If you are interested in how Everest was climbed then this book will paint a good picture.
March 9, 2021
As a non-climber, I went into this with significant reservations. Most of what I've heard about Mt. Everest expeditions today are overwhelmingly negative: mistreatment and underrecognition of Sherpas, colonial overtones, environmental damage due to overcrowding, and just general irresponsible risk taking in what has essentially become a rich man's playground. Thankfully, this book is worth reading in spite of, or maybe because of all these concerns. It delves nicely into the background and controversies behind the first attempt, and does not white wash these concerns away, although I do feel at times it could be looked at more deeply.
As a book, the writer has a somewhat dry narrative style that is especially tedious in the beginning, but works well in trying to paint a kind of balanced picture about what happened. I especially enjoyed inclusions of letters and reflections from the team members themselves, as well as speculations into their inner thoughts. The whole Eric Shipton controversy, to me, could have been significantly shortened, but the rest makes for interesting reading. In particular, this is a good study in leadership styles, and I found great utility in learning about John Hunt's decision making style and process.
I am still not convinced that summiting Mt. Everest today is a worthwhile or responsible pursuit. Neither has this book shown me that there were any meaningful motivations behind the first ascent-a love for climbing, maybe, but more likely vanity, both personal and national. But that is not the point, which really is to rejoice in this detailed and fascinating account of the beginning of a phenomenom, and then come to your own conclusion.
As a book, the writer has a somewhat dry narrative style that is especially tedious in the beginning, but works well in trying to paint a kind of balanced picture about what happened. I especially enjoyed inclusions of letters and reflections from the team members themselves, as well as speculations into their inner thoughts. The whole Eric Shipton controversy, to me, could have been significantly shortened, but the rest makes for interesting reading. In particular, this is a good study in leadership styles, and I found great utility in learning about John Hunt's decision making style and process.
I am still not convinced that summiting Mt. Everest today is a worthwhile or responsible pursuit. Neither has this book shown me that there were any meaningful motivations behind the first ascent-a love for climbing, maybe, but more likely vanity, both personal and national. But that is not the point, which really is to rejoice in this detailed and fascinating account of the beginning of a phenomenom, and then come to your own conclusion.
July 23, 2021
Really engaging and exciting journey, well researched by the author. Moved steadily through the pages, and through the expedition, I could feel every passage vividly. A bit too many references to the media's ravenous nature for my liking, particularly at the end, but shows how closely it was tied to the expedition's projection to the world. Overall a very fascinating account about very fascinating figures and their experience with one of the most extreme places in the world.
April 6, 2021
Great insight into how they achieved this amazing accomplishment. Going through both, some years before with the other expeditions that attempted it previously, up to what they all went on to do after they climbed to the highest point on Earth. Thoroughly enjoyed this book as it doesn’t take any sides as to who got their first but focus’ more on the facts.
April 8, 2015
This book was on the new book shelf at the library and looked interesting. I have no desire to climb Mount Everest or to go snow camping/ice climbing..however this is still a good read! I was most interested in the social dynamics of the groups and attempts at summiting, and the ways in which the leader made decisions and the results of those actions. There is a bit of this included in the book (a few pages), and the key insight I personally am taking away is that sometimes a leader has to be more of a dictator in certain situations, and it isn't always in the groups' best interest to allow everyone to have a say/voice their thoughts; and sometimes this isn't obvious to anyone until after the fact...which just goes to show you how difficult leadership can be. Also, sometimes a leader must turn back for the good of the team/ultimate goal, regardless of any personal goals or ambitions they may have - which may lead to personal disappointment but achievement for the team as a whole.
Other interesting facts: the real name of Mount Everest is actually Chomolungma, the local name for the mountain. It was renamed after George Everest, a former chief surveyor. Also, the Alpine Club was founded in 1857.
Other interesting facts: the real name of Mount Everest is actually Chomolungma, the local name for the mountain. It was renamed after George Everest, a former chief surveyor. Also, the Alpine Club was founded in 1857.
February 27, 2018
I've read a large number of books about mountaineering over the years, and, needless to say, a number of them were about Everest. The story of the ascent of Everest in 1953 by Ed Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, supported by a large British and Sherpa team, is well known and has always seemed pretty pat: for God and country, rah rah. For this book Conefrey did a huge amount of research, found old government papers and expedition diaries, and interviewed people who had been on or associated with the expedition. This work touches on so many of the things that were percolating underneath this story: colonialism and the decreased influence of England around the world, racism, heroism, nationalism, politics, personal goals and limitations, and more. I didn't think there was much more for me to learn about the first successful climb of Everest, but I was wrong. This is a great addition to the literature. Plus, it led me to the video on YouTube that was made in 1953 about the ascent. So very interesting to watch! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7oHp...
June 3, 2017
Wow! There are no words to describe this breathtaking inspirational account of the first team to summit Everest. But, Mick Conefrey has not only portrayed the spirit of conquest, but has written an in-depth account of the extensive planning that went into such an expedition. The leadership and organization of Colonel John Hunt, the sacking of Eric Shipton, the media circus; all serve as a backdrop to the final conquest on the slopes of Earth's highest mountain. Hillary and Tenzing, and all who made their feat possible are detailed by extensive source documents, diaries, and autobiographies of this remarkable moment. Of course, it leaves me anxious to get a copy of some of the autobiographies myself... such as:
The Ascent of Everest by John Hunt
Mountain Conquest by Eric Shipton
The Wildest Dream: Mallory: His Conflicting Life and Passions by Peter Gillman
And, three books by Sir Edmund Hillary:
High Adventure
High in the Thin Cold Air
From the Ocean to the Sky
The Ascent of Everest by John Hunt
Mountain Conquest by Eric Shipton
The Wildest Dream: Mallory: His Conflicting Life and Passions by Peter Gillman
And, three books by Sir Edmund Hillary:
High Adventure
High in the Thin Cold Air
From the Ocean to the Sky
January 18, 2014
This is a well researched and comprehensive account of the planning and execution of the successful assault on Everest in 1952. It is an interesting and frank insight into the politics of the Everest Committee; not everyone emerges creditably. The contentious choice of a leader is well documented; the mechanics of the climb are explained in moderate and sufficient detail and the book concludes with an analysis of the aftermath. The latter is easy to forget, but as set out by the author the months following the expedition were dogged by an extraordinary controversy as to who actually stood first on the summit. Although in 1952 the climb was hailed as a great success, its impact on some of those concerned, especially the Sherpa Tenzing, is sad to read. An enlightening and informative read.
November 13, 2012
Amazingly, this is the first book since 1953 about the successful 1953 Everest expedition. British-led, it put two distinctly different men - a beekeeper from New Zealand and a former yak herder, born in Tibet and raised in Nepal - at the summit of the world's highest mountain.
But this is about much more than climbing. Weaving together themes of empire and post-colonialism, hopes fulfilled and dreams dashed, personal and political misunderstandings and, most importantly, the sometimes extraordinary power of the human spirit, Everest 1953 is both a thrilling and thought-provoking read.
But this is about much more than climbing. Weaving together themes of empire and post-colonialism, hopes fulfilled and dreams dashed, personal and political misunderstandings and, most importantly, the sometimes extraordinary power of the human spirit, Everest 1953 is both a thrilling and thought-provoking read.
August 28, 2016
Not my typical novel read but have an interest in ice/cold, mountains and mountaineering. Listened to on audible - have a feeling might have actually struggled to read the physical novel. Did find it slightly boring and had to eventually listen to on double speed. Despite that I would still attempt to read or listen to other accounts along the same lines.
May 4, 2014
A wonderful read but with a few continuity errors in the section dealing with the South Col. I still really enjoyed it though. Would have been a 4 but I'd give it a 3.5.
July 11, 2017
Everest 1953 recounts the story of the first ascent of the world's highest peak. The account relates the extreme and often dangerous conditions the climbers had to face to reach the summit, and the inspiring courage and leadership that was required of them to overcome these challenges.
The narrative is riveting and maintains a good pace throughout. It is of particular interest to those who are unacquainted with the story of 1953 expedition - as I was - though I'm sure it's also valuable to those who already know the basic story.
One of the most interesting aspects of the story is the importance that is placed on teamwork throughout. The team itself was impressively large, being composed of 11 expert mountaineers and about 100 Sherpas. The crowning achievement achieved by the two most famous climbers - Hillary and Tensing - has subsequently overshadowed the fact that it was a team effort and simply would not have been possible without the preparations and support provided by the rest of the team who did not reach the summit.
The background that is recounted of previous expeditions lays the scene well and conveys why the logistical, leadership and teamwork elements of the 1953 expedition were so important its success. Not only did the summit climbers metaphorically stand on the shoulders of the rest of the team, the success of the 1953 expedition itself relied on the of information and experience accumulated during previous expeditions. This principle applies to all of humanity's achievements and it is nicely illustrated here.
The author makes it clear that a large part of the team's success was due to the adroit leadership provided by John Hunt. Hunt is a good leader for a number of reasons. He is humble; observes the importance of team building; develops a genuine connection with each man in the team; is decisive; listens to the opinions of others but ultimately holds his own counsel; and is not readily dissuaded from his chosen course.
Despite being the eldest and the least physically fit member of the team, he pushes himself to physical extremes time and again. He does this at first to prove his strength to the team and inspire faith in their leader. Later, when they are all suffering from adverse altitude effects and extreme exhaustion, he continues to be one of the team members who travels the furthest and carries the most, usually leading from the front. Here he is truly leading by example and provides the others with the positive energy necessary to urge them on.
In summary, Everest 1953 is an epic adventure story and is greatly inspiring for those who love a challenge.
The narrative is riveting and maintains a good pace throughout. It is of particular interest to those who are unacquainted with the story of 1953 expedition - as I was - though I'm sure it's also valuable to those who already know the basic story.
One of the most interesting aspects of the story is the importance that is placed on teamwork throughout. The team itself was impressively large, being composed of 11 expert mountaineers and about 100 Sherpas. The crowning achievement achieved by the two most famous climbers - Hillary and Tensing - has subsequently overshadowed the fact that it was a team effort and simply would not have been possible without the preparations and support provided by the rest of the team who did not reach the summit.
The background that is recounted of previous expeditions lays the scene well and conveys why the logistical, leadership and teamwork elements of the 1953 expedition were so important its success. Not only did the summit climbers metaphorically stand on the shoulders of the rest of the team, the success of the 1953 expedition itself relied on the of information and experience accumulated during previous expeditions. This principle applies to all of humanity's achievements and it is nicely illustrated here.
The author makes it clear that a large part of the team's success was due to the adroit leadership provided by John Hunt. Hunt is a good leader for a number of reasons. He is humble; observes the importance of team building; develops a genuine connection with each man in the team; is decisive; listens to the opinions of others but ultimately holds his own counsel; and is not readily dissuaded from his chosen course.
Despite being the eldest and the least physically fit member of the team, he pushes himself to physical extremes time and again. He does this at first to prove his strength to the team and inspire faith in their leader. Later, when they are all suffering from adverse altitude effects and extreme exhaustion, he continues to be one of the team members who travels the furthest and carries the most, usually leading from the front. Here he is truly leading by example and provides the others with the positive energy necessary to urge them on.
In summary, Everest 1953 is an epic adventure story and is greatly inspiring for those who love a challenge.
July 7, 2021
“Well, we knocked the bastard off!”
Everest 1953 recounts a bygone age of self-sacrifice and heroism, using letters and personal diaries to reveal the immense stress and heartache the climbers often hid from their fellow team members. From funding panics to Sherpa rebellions, hostile press to menacing weather, John Hunt and his team had to draw on unimaginable skill and determination, as well as sheer British ingenuity, to succeed.
I have been obsessed with Mount Everest for as long as I can remember and even more so in my adult life. I was at one point going to make the trip to base camp before realizing just how ridiculously expensive even that would be. I always watched any show or documentary I could and anything on youtube never thinking to pick up a book as everything was so imagery fuelled. When I did however pick up a book I had all of that wonderful imagery to draw on. When reading about the trek in from Kathmandu to Everest base camp I could see all the little tea houses and rivers and vistas. When reading about live at base camp I could see all the tents and Sherpas and prayer flags at the bottom of the mightiest mountain on earth. When reading about Acclimatization Climbs I could feel what it was like at 23,500 feet on the Lhotse Face and how hard the wind blows at such extreme altitudes. When reading about The Summit Bid and the moment of truth when Hillary and Tenzing finally made it to the top of the world and conqured Everest it felt like I was right there with them.
I love this book. I loved that it was so much more than just the actual first Assent that it was so much more than the story of how they got to the top. I loved that it was all that came before and all that came after. I loved reading about the failed attempts and all of the planning leading up to the actual assault on the mountain. How it was reported on, nothing would come near it again until the moon landings. It was a fixed point in time, a point when the world got a little bit smaller and a whole lot bigger all at once. You can really feel that in this book the feeling of “this is possible” because before that they didn’t know if it was.
Everest 1953 recounts a bygone age of self-sacrifice and heroism, using letters and personal diaries to reveal the immense stress and heartache the climbers often hid from their fellow team members. From funding panics to Sherpa rebellions, hostile press to menacing weather, John Hunt and his team had to draw on unimaginable skill and determination, as well as sheer British ingenuity, to succeed.
I have been obsessed with Mount Everest for as long as I can remember and even more so in my adult life. I was at one point going to make the trip to base camp before realizing just how ridiculously expensive even that would be. I always watched any show or documentary I could and anything on youtube never thinking to pick up a book as everything was so imagery fuelled. When I did however pick up a book I had all of that wonderful imagery to draw on. When reading about the trek in from Kathmandu to Everest base camp I could see all the little tea houses and rivers and vistas. When reading about live at base camp I could see all the tents and Sherpas and prayer flags at the bottom of the mightiest mountain on earth. When reading about Acclimatization Climbs I could feel what it was like at 23,500 feet on the Lhotse Face and how hard the wind blows at such extreme altitudes. When reading about The Summit Bid and the moment of truth when Hillary and Tenzing finally made it to the top of the world and conqured Everest it felt like I was right there with them.
I love this book. I loved that it was so much more than just the actual first Assent that it was so much more than the story of how they got to the top. I loved that it was all that came before and all that came after. I loved reading about the failed attempts and all of the planning leading up to the actual assault on the mountain. How it was reported on, nothing would come near it again until the moon landings. It was a fixed point in time, a point when the world got a little bit smaller and a whole lot bigger all at once. You can really feel that in this book the feeling of “this is possible” because before that they didn’t know if it was.
February 7, 2024
A detailed account of the first successful summit of Everest, by two of the worlds greatest mountaineers, Ed Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.
This book had it all, and the journey itself certainly marked the beginning of the recognition of the Sherpa community, of which has encouraged many Nepalese to build prosperous careers and record breaking journeys across the vast landscape and contours of the famous Himalayas.
Our author Mick Conefrey had meticulously studied and accumulated as much information as possible on this famous climb, and in turn wrote a very detailed and charismatic story of this worldly first.
I found Myself really getting to know each and every person within this story, and not just embedded into the details of Hillary and Norgay. Instead, the book tells of all involved on this mission, right from the get go, the planning, administration, the 'leaders' and the climbers themselves.
Leaving no stone unturned, this wonderful piece of mountaineering literature described the entire saga in all its glory and gripped Me from the get go. No dramatization or elaborate stories of heroism or foe, but a remarkable encounter of history being made.
Many of us already know of the first to summit through either education or simple common knowledge. But to experience and understand this military like operation in all its glory, really brought so much more light to this epic venture and feat of human endurance and the lives of those involved both before and after the ascent.
I could not recommend this book enough to anyone wanting to really know how this mission unfolded and how it was achieved. With all it's daring feats of mountain venture and obstacles along the way, combined with legalities and the many other worldly mountaineers dashing to the race, this book has it all.
Beautifully written, well researched and perfectly executed.
Bravo is what I say. A book I will cherish forever.
This book had it all, and the journey itself certainly marked the beginning of the recognition of the Sherpa community, of which has encouraged many Nepalese to build prosperous careers and record breaking journeys across the vast landscape and contours of the famous Himalayas.
Our author Mick Conefrey had meticulously studied and accumulated as much information as possible on this famous climb, and in turn wrote a very detailed and charismatic story of this worldly first.
I found Myself really getting to know each and every person within this story, and not just embedded into the details of Hillary and Norgay. Instead, the book tells of all involved on this mission, right from the get go, the planning, administration, the 'leaders' and the climbers themselves.
Leaving no stone unturned, this wonderful piece of mountaineering literature described the entire saga in all its glory and gripped Me from the get go. No dramatization or elaborate stories of heroism or foe, but a remarkable encounter of history being made.
Many of us already know of the first to summit through either education or simple common knowledge. But to experience and understand this military like operation in all its glory, really brought so much more light to this epic venture and feat of human endurance and the lives of those involved both before and after the ascent.
I could not recommend this book enough to anyone wanting to really know how this mission unfolded and how it was achieved. With all it's daring feats of mountain venture and obstacles along the way, combined with legalities and the many other worldly mountaineers dashing to the race, this book has it all.
Beautifully written, well researched and perfectly executed.
Bravo is what I say. A book I will cherish forever.
January 21, 2019
The story of the ascent of Everest gripped my interest in several ways - firstly, the narrative here begins more than two year before the event and comes in slowly, describing what had to be done before the '53 expedition could happen; secondly, and more importantly, the book highlighted the importance of teamwork in challenging environments. I was also unaware of the ascent's Coronation Day significance, but when it was revealed I was speechless. That moment, whether in London or anywhere in the Commonwealth, must have been spectacular...
I was quite surprised by the amount of politicking which had to be referred to both between the various countries trying to ascend to the top first as well as within the expedition team and prior to even establishing it. Also, anywhere where one of the chapters can be titled "A Very British Coup" can only pique my interest.
What I have described thus far is politics and teamwork -- however, it is obvious that there is a far bigger player in this book, and that is the mountain or mountaineering in general. Everest looms above the works throughout the story and though the modern reader knows that the mountain was eventually climbed and by whom, it does not mean that the fate of the others are known. Thus, the narrative still provides numerous points of interest, especially in describing how and when some particularly trying episodes were passed.
I picked the book up not because I like mountaineering but because I like a good story. I think the author has provided the reader with one, but he also made it accessible to everyman and included enough to make both a mountaineer as well as a journalist find something in this for themselves.
This review was originally posted on my blog.
I was quite surprised by the amount of politicking which had to be referred to both between the various countries trying to ascend to the top first as well as within the expedition team and prior to even establishing it. Also, anywhere where one of the chapters can be titled "A Very British Coup" can only pique my interest.
What I have described thus far is politics and teamwork -- however, it is obvious that there is a far bigger player in this book, and that is the mountain or mountaineering in general. Everest looms above the works throughout the story and though the modern reader knows that the mountain was eventually climbed and by whom, it does not mean that the fate of the others are known. Thus, the narrative still provides numerous points of interest, especially in describing how and when some particularly trying episodes were passed.
I picked the book up not because I like mountaineering but because I like a good story. I think the author has provided the reader with one, but he also made it accessible to everyman and included enough to make both a mountaineer as well as a journalist find something in this for themselves.
This review was originally posted on my blog.
February 22, 2023
A pretty detailed account of the first successful summiting of Everest, and the preparation and the team (and all that predictable grit and stoicism) that got them there.
It was an OK read, others seem to be a big fan, but after reading a few Krakauer mountaineering books this felt quite dry, formal and oldschool in comparison. Very factual and methodical, but perhaps could have been a bit more thrilling / adventurous in tone, given the subject matter.
I listened to this one on Audible, and can't quite tell if it was the tone of the narration, or the tone intended by the author, but their seemed to be a pretty strong air of 'British superiority', especially in the back half of the book, where it feels like the author is quite biased at times, for example he seems almost annoyed at Tenzing for being more celebrated in his native India and Nepal than the British / New Zealand climbers were, he brushes under the carpet Tenzing receiving lower honours from the British Crown than Ed Hillary, and seems to generally put across a narrative that Tenzing was less deserving or 'proper' in the way he handled the limelight, fame and leveraging the post-summit fame into financial security than the other members of the party. It's not explicit but the slightly snooty, colonially tone certainly seemed to come through in the latter quarter of the Audible version of the book, which took away from the end of the story a fair old bit.
It was an OK read, others seem to be a big fan, but after reading a few Krakauer mountaineering books this felt quite dry, formal and oldschool in comparison. Very factual and methodical, but perhaps could have been a bit more thrilling / adventurous in tone, given the subject matter.
I listened to this one on Audible, and can't quite tell if it was the tone of the narration, or the tone intended by the author, but their seemed to be a pretty strong air of 'British superiority', especially in the back half of the book, where it feels like the author is quite biased at times, for example he seems almost annoyed at Tenzing for being more celebrated in his native India and Nepal than the British / New Zealand climbers were, he brushes under the carpet Tenzing receiving lower honours from the British Crown than Ed Hillary, and seems to generally put across a narrative that Tenzing was less deserving or 'proper' in the way he handled the limelight, fame and leveraging the post-summit fame into financial security than the other members of the party. It's not explicit but the slightly snooty, colonially tone certainly seemed to come through in the latter quarter of the Audible version of the book, which took away from the end of the story a fair old bit.
November 13, 2017
Drawing deeply from archive material, this is a modern history of the first ascent of Everest. History has painted this as a British expedition, yet this book reveals that is far from the truth, with much learning from the previous years Swiss attempt, from the New Zealand contingent - Hilary included - and from the Sherpas.
Cover age by the press at the time, and from the Himalayan committee, attempted to paint the expedition as a purely British exercise, but it definitely wasn’t.
John Hunt was a man of his time. A very professional organiser, who shouldered the burden of ‘having’ to achieve the goal, as other attempts were planned for the following two years. His management and planning wasn’t without fault, but by ensuring that the expedition had a single goal, he ensured the success. Even high on the mountain, he concentrated on this aim. Ultimately his health suffered, leading to a breakdown later in 1953.
The summit is reached approximately two thirds into the book. The rest of the book tells experiences of the expedition members after the story broke, where national and nationalistic tensions sought to drive them apart.
Thoroughly enjoyable, and an easy read.
Cover age by the press at the time, and from the Himalayan committee, attempted to paint the expedition as a purely British exercise, but it definitely wasn’t.
John Hunt was a man of his time. A very professional organiser, who shouldered the burden of ‘having’ to achieve the goal, as other attempts were planned for the following two years. His management and planning wasn’t without fault, but by ensuring that the expedition had a single goal, he ensured the success. Even high on the mountain, he concentrated on this aim. Ultimately his health suffered, leading to a breakdown later in 1953.
The summit is reached approximately two thirds into the book. The rest of the book tells experiences of the expedition members after the story broke, where national and nationalistic tensions sought to drive them apart.
Thoroughly enjoyable, and an easy read.
July 13, 2020
This is a straightforward, no non-sense account of the first ascent of Mount Everest in 1953.
Almost everyone in the world will know Ed Hilary and Tenzing's name. These are the two climbers that made it up the highest mountain in the world first. However, there was a whole team of climbers led by John Hunt who tried to make it to the top. For example, Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans who came within 100 meters of being the first to summit. Can you imagine?
Conefrey has a very solid way of telling a story. He doesn't jump from plot line to plot line, rather he tells the story chronologically. You can split this book in parts. Pre-climb, climb and post-climb.
I enjoyed the read, but I was enthralled when they were trying to summit the mountain. Those tales made my toes tingle. So many things could've gone wrong, I love stories where man's will is tested. Where adversity is conquered.
It's enjoyable and I highly recommend it for people who are interested to learn more about the Mount Everest and the first ascent.
Almost everyone in the world will know Ed Hilary and Tenzing's name. These are the two climbers that made it up the highest mountain in the world first. However, there was a whole team of climbers led by John Hunt who tried to make it to the top. For example, Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans who came within 100 meters of being the first to summit. Can you imagine?
Conefrey has a very solid way of telling a story. He doesn't jump from plot line to plot line, rather he tells the story chronologically. You can split this book in parts. Pre-climb, climb and post-climb.
I enjoyed the read, but I was enthralled when they were trying to summit the mountain. Those tales made my toes tingle. So many things could've gone wrong, I love stories where man's will is tested. Where adversity is conquered.
It's enjoyable and I highly recommend it for people who are interested to learn more about the Mount Everest and the first ascent.
June 12, 2019
Found it difficult to get into to begin and like so many earlier expeditions I had to abandon it 😅
When I returned and tried to read again I found Everest 1953 engaging and thrilling. The earlier expeditions that allowed for the ultimate summit were covered and given fair treatment praising successes and also plainly describing some issues that plagued them.
As the epilogue proclaims that when people think of this ascent of Everest there are only two names that come to mind, while Tenzig and Hillary undoubtedly deserve praise it's fantastic to hear more of the group effort behind it. Everybody played an important role and learning the names of lesser known but vital team members Tom Bourdillon, George Lowe and even Eric Shipton was eye opening and captivating. The politics behind organising these trips were far more intense than would be considered now when thinking back.
Really enjoyable book.
When I returned and tried to read again I found Everest 1953 engaging and thrilling. The earlier expeditions that allowed for the ultimate summit were covered and given fair treatment praising successes and also plainly describing some issues that plagued them.
As the epilogue proclaims that when people think of this ascent of Everest there are only two names that come to mind, while Tenzig and Hillary undoubtedly deserve praise it's fantastic to hear more of the group effort behind it. Everybody played an important role and learning the names of lesser known but vital team members Tom Bourdillon, George Lowe and even Eric Shipton was eye opening and captivating. The politics behind organising these trips were far more intense than would be considered now when thinking back.
Really enjoyable book.
December 4, 2022
Goodreads shows I've been reading this since April - a long time. I listened to the audiobook, and took ages because I wasn't keen on the narrator - in hindsight I clearly should have switched to the physical book, but it wasn't annoying enough to do that immediately. The narrator has a posh, formal, English accent which is just a bit too formal for me. Also he does voices, which I found odd in a non-fiction book, and a bit jarring, especially when he's doing voices of people from other countries - I don't know how accurate the voices are and because they are real people, not characters, it seemed weird.
That said the book itself was really good, very interesting and puts the ascent of 1953 into good context explaining the earlier attempts in the few years before. I'd recommend the book and have enjoyed the author's writing before, book itself is probably 4 stars, but the annoying narration knocked the audio version down.
That said the book itself was really good, very interesting and puts the ascent of 1953 into good context explaining the earlier attempts in the few years before. I'd recommend the book and have enjoyed the author's writing before, book itself is probably 4 stars, but the annoying narration knocked the audio version down.
August 7, 2018
This is a very accessible account of the events around the first ascent to the top of Everest. The account has a very good level of detail of the people involved, the rational behind some of the critical decisions such as selecting John Hunt as the head of the expedition, and how other members like Hillary and Tenzing were in the right place, at the right time for selection to the team and for the opportunity to make an attempt at going to the top. The descriptions of Everest and the rock, snow, ice and altitude conditions were also well written. If I had any small complaint it would be the lack of maps. Sure we can now readily access these from the internet but it would have been good to have maps included clearly pointing out significant locations in the landscape as discussed in the book.
October 4, 2022
This is the second of Conefrey's Everest books that I've read, and they've both been very good. The author has spent a lot of time in London archives, and it shows. Less hype, more direct reporting on the men who were in the boardrooms and on the slopes--those who made the summiting possible, and those who achieved it. But make no mistake; the latter group are the heroes here. Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay are incredible men who accomplished an incredible task. Yes, they got a lot of help, as documented here, but they're not called the Hillary Steps for nothing--someone had to get out there and actually climb to 29,002 feet. And these guys did. They were heroes, whose news of conquering Everest made it to London the morning of Elizabeth's coronation. A spectacular gift for a spectacular woman. And it couldn't have been accomplished by two men more decent than these.
October 29, 2025
A really enjoyable read. It’s a topic I’d always wanted to explore more deeply and, after a slightly slow start, it delivered the insights and fun facts I was hoping for. I was surprised to learn about Tenzing’s Tibetan background and the Sherpas’ attitude toward Everest at the time. The story of the summit news being relayed in secret code so it could reach London just in time for the coronation was brilliant.
Tenzing not being knighted still feels outrageous. Of course, Hillary and Tenzing are the ones remembered most, but it’s striking how easily it could have been Evans and Bourdillon, who turned back at the South Summit only the day before. I also hadn’t realised Everest was named after a man who never saw it and who didn’t even want the mountain named after him. Just another example of the universe’s random chance!
Tenzing not being knighted still feels outrageous. Of course, Hillary and Tenzing are the ones remembered most, but it’s striking how easily it could have been Evans and Bourdillon, who turned back at the South Summit only the day before. I also hadn’t realised Everest was named after a man who never saw it and who didn’t even want the mountain named after him. Just another example of the universe’s random chance!
October 24, 2017
Like most people I knew that Hilary and Tenzing were the first to climb Everest however this book is brilliant in providing greater context. From how Eric Shipton climbing ability and reputation as Mr Everest. Through the happenstance that Hilary and George Low were also climbing in the Himalayas in 1951 and were invited into the exploratory trip on whether Everest could be climbed from the South.
How in 1953 Eric Shipton was replaced with John Hunt, whose detailed planning and and force of will enabled a successful summit.
The takeaways for me were, this was a true team effort and the planning and prep enabled the 1953 to be a high pressure climb but fruitful ascent.
How in 1953 Eric Shipton was replaced with John Hunt, whose detailed planning and and force of will enabled a successful summit.
The takeaways for me were, this was a true team effort and the planning and prep enabled the 1953 to be a high pressure climb but fruitful ascent.
September 30, 2021
A phenomenal story of the how the bunch of exceptional men, achieved the feat of conquering one of the most difficult geographical and symbolic point of this planet.
Author has taken great amount of pains to cover everything - from the failed expeditions, internal squabbles, meticulous planning, hiccups during the expedition, media efforts of sensationalising the stories, varied receptions from countries to the how team achieved this daunting task.
Once you start the story, it is not easy to put this book down. Just like the expedition team, you will find yourself marching on to finish this book despite the constraints of sleep and time.
Author has taken great amount of pains to cover everything - from the failed expeditions, internal squabbles, meticulous planning, hiccups during the expedition, media efforts of sensationalising the stories, varied receptions from countries to the how team achieved this daunting task.
Once you start the story, it is not easy to put this book down. Just like the expedition team, you will find yourself marching on to finish this book despite the constraints of sleep and time.
February 7, 2022
Very good and exhaustive account of everything that went into the successful 1953 expedition, as well as its aftermath. I'd argue it was a bit unnecessarily detailed at times and could've benefited from being slightly shorter. However I did find the chapter(s) describing how the press reacted to the news of the successful ascension to be very interesting as it showed that it's not just today that we are awash in poor journalism and tabloid 'news' but that this was indeed a common practice already seventy years ago and not something new or unique to the era of commercial television and the internet. Overall a well-written book that kept me interested throughout.
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