Cranky Old Lady Confession: yes, this is a long gripe about an INTRODUCTION written 35 years ago for a book published in 1954.
To get the obvious out of the way, The Alice B Toklas Cookbook is wonderful. I want all of her dishes, one after the other, never mind that the rest of the country would then be out of eggs, cream and butter for the next five or six years. I wouldn’t care, having succumbed to a massive coronary just after the last luscious bite.
I used to have a first edition paperback of Ms. Toklas’s infamous recipes and memories. The little yellow jacketed book was worn and fraying from regular re-reading, and by the time I somehow lost it, I knew it so well (the war chapters especially, from the opening “In the beginning, like camels, we lived on our past” on through the myriad of ways to prepare crayfish when that’s all you can get), I didn’t hurry to find another copy. But finding this 1984 edition at Goodwill not long ago, and for only a dollah, AND an introduction written by MFK Fisher, happy book-dance and sold.
Then I read the introduction and was reminded of this: decades ago I worked for a print publication and became friendly with its very engaging food columnist, initially over a shared love of MFK Fisher. When he landed an interview with her, and not just an interview but lunch at her house, I extracted vows to Tell All afterwards. When he came back to NY, I grabbed him – so?? Lunch? Anecdotes?– he sighed, and half-smiled, and said, “So … Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher is an absolute bitch.”
From the start of the Alice B. Toklas forward, Fisher is primarily interested in only two things; her obsession over Ms. Toklas’ looks (by the third paragraph she’s already described her as a “small, ugly woman”) and the bitter affront Fisher took at not being personally introduced at the sad end of Alice’s life. She goes off on a wild tear about how she knew Ms Toklas so well from reading her, and should have been afforded a face to face. Instead of focusing on Toklas’ life – her passion for cooking, gardening, her homemaking for Gertrude – the introduction is used to first detail how Janet Flanner, an “elderly writer” who had the temerity to be living in the Parisian hotel room Fisher wanted for herself, “refused to include me (Fisher’s italics), even vicariously, when she went several times a week to the clinic where Alice B. Toklas lay like a sightless, speechless vegetable.” (Personally, when thinking of vegetables and Alice B. Toklas, I'll go with her delectable sounding artichoke recipes). Fisher even snipes that daily she bought Ms. Toklas’ favourite pastries to be brought along as gifts, “and watched Janet pretend that she was not going to eat the little treats herself.”
Then there are 2 pages focused on Alice’s appearance, ‘her nose big or even huge’, ‘her strong black moustache” and her ‘almost offensive’ choice of footwear. Fisher finally gets to the writing of the cookbook, but has to point out that as Ms. Toklas was ill with hepatitis at the time, ‘her naturally sallow face turned pumpkin-yellow.’
Fisher does, ultimately, praise the book, calling it abundantly satisfying, but not before taking a few jabs at certain passages. The ‘Recipes from Friends’ couldn’t have been written by the author, with their ‘much distorted recipes’, and Alice’s ‘lyrical directions’ for concocting her famous Hash Brownies Fisher contends were actually the work of a friend, not Alice herself.
It’s Alice herself who wrote the real introduction to her work, and all that need be included. She writes of her equal love for America and for France, her adopted home, and how their differences in approach to cooking and to dining inspired the cookbook. “I wrote it for America, but it will be pleasant if the ideas in it, besides surviving the Atlantic, manage to cross the Channel and find acceptance in British kitchens too.” Having been translated into multiple languages, The Alice B. Toklas cookbook is still in print 65 years after it first appeared. Fisher’s snakelike introduction fades to nothing, while in these pages Toklas, even from her sickbed, is cooking, entertaining, remembering, loving and very much alive.
So Fooey to you Mary Frances (although I still love How to Cook a Wolf, but count yourself lucky nobody will ever ask me to write an introduction for it.)
STARS AWARDED - Alice B. Toklas: 20, MFK -8