The biryani is India’s most beloved dish—one that has spread to all the fourcorners of the country and assumed many forms.It originated in the Mughal courts, flowering in the jagirs of Awadh, and it is inLucknow, Delhi and the small Muslim principalities of north India that one findsthe classic versions, subtle, refined, and delicately flavoured. Pratibha Karangives us not just the definitive recipes from these regions but unearths rare andold dishes such as a biryani made with oranges, Rose Biryani and KebabBiryani.In the south, the biryani has an equally distinguished lineage, if not more so.There are the blue-blooded biryanis of Hyderabad which include gems such asthe Doodh ki Biryani, Keeme ki biryani and Bater ki biryani. Away from the royalcourts, the biryani has adapted itself into a spicy local delicacy in Tamil Nadu,with many towns like Salem, Aambur, Dindigul boasting of their own signatureversion of the dish. Kerala too is home to many - a prawn biryani spiced withcurry leaves and aniseed, a mutton one laced with star anise.There are as many stunning variations in the east and west—Goan biryanisusing vinegar and olives; unusual dishes from the Parsi and Sindhi communities;Bengali adaptations using fish and mustard seeds, even a dish from Assam!Immaculately researched, full of extraordinary recipes, and beautifully designedand photographed, Biryani is the ultimate book on this princely dish.
The book presents with dazzling range of biryanis and manages to cover every corner of Indian subcontinent. I mean no other dish can match the grandeur,taste, subtlety and refinement of biryani.
The challenging part is to cook a decent biryani after following the recipe. I shall try for a decent biryani in coming days but you never know.
It's secret lies in it's simplicity- of instructions and technique- and the range of recipes it offers. Hopefully subsequent editions might see an addition or two from my home state Chhattisgarh where rice and meat remain the two most central ingredients of our diet.