Threads of Empire: A History of the World in Twelve Carpets

by Dorothy Armstrong

Carpet specialist Dorothy Armstrong tells the stories surrounding twelve of the world’s most fascinating carpets.

Dorothy Armstrong’s Threads of Empire is a spellbinding look at the history of the world through the stories of twelve carpets. Beautiful, sensuous, and enigmatic, great carpets follow power. Emperors, shahs, sultans and samurai crave them as symbols of earthly domination. Shamans and priests desire them to evoke the spiritual realm. The world’s 1% hunger after them as displays of extreme status. And yet these seductive objects are made by poor and illiterate weavers, using the most basic materials and crafts; hedgerow plants for dyes, fibers from domestic animals, and the millennia-old skills of interweaving warps, wefts and knots.

In Threads of Empire, Armstrong tells the histories of some of the world’s most fascinating carpets, exploring how these textiles came into being then were transformed as they moved across geography and time in the slipstream of the great. She shows why the world’s powerful were drawn to them, but also asks what was happening in the weavers’ lives, and how they were affected by events in the world outside their tent, village or workshop. In its wide-ranging examination of these dazzling objects, from the 5th century BCE contents of the tombs of Scythian chieftains, to the carpets under the boots of Stalin, Roosevelt and Churchill at the 1945 Yalta Peace Conference, Threads of Empire uncovers a new, hitherto hidden past right beneath our feet.

Genres: History, Nonfiction, Art, Audiobook, Adult, World History, Reference

368 pages, Hardcover

Published June 17, 2025

Reviews

[Sherwood Smith]

Twelve exquititely-written chapters, each focused on a specific carpet.

My only problem is not a problem for someone who buys the book: NetGalley did not include illos.

That said, the writing is an arabesque swooping from ancient history to the present, covering a broad range of geographical distance and historical figures, including a precis of the state of the world when each particular carpet was created. The human side is there: the conflicts involved inweaving it, owning it, claiming it, then tracing its history.

A truly worthy book!

[laurel [the suspected bibliophile] · Rating 4 out of 5]

An entertaining and educating look into the history of the world through textiles, specifically, carpet weaving. A history that attempts to place the weaver herself (because weavers were usually women) back into the narrative through the evidence they left behind.

Included is counterfeiting, westernism/colonialism, and a bunch of other things woven together.

[Erin Clemence · Rating 3 out of 5]

Special thanks to NetGalley and the publisher for a free, electronic ARC of this novel received in exchange for an honest review.

Expected publication date: June 17, 2025

“Threads of Empire: A History of the World in Twelve Carpets” by Dorothy Armstrong is exactly as the title implies. Through examinations of twelve of the world’s most intriguing and interesting carpets (yes, that’s a thing), Armstrong outlines what the world looked like during that time, in the area of the specific carpet’s creation, such as Iran, Persia, Turkey and Russia (granted they have different names depending on the era).

I had no idea that there was such a thing as “carpet experts”, but Armstrong is somehow not the only one. Throughout history, there have been many individuals with an interest in carpets, and a general curiousity about where they came from and how they came to be. Armstrong places carpet weaving in the same category as other historical pieces of art, such as wall drawings or ancient tools, and it does make sense. Carpets have been around for several millennia and they do have quite the story to tell.

Armstrong introduces each of the twelve chapters with a specific carpet, identifying its make, description and best guess as to the carpet’s era and location. Then, she proceeds to go into detail about the society at the time and circles around again to the specific carpet and where it is stored or on display (depending on the carpet). As is typical in a historical non-fiction novel, there is lots of political manipulations, wars and struggles for power, as well as overt and subtle racism, sexism and classism and Armstrong details these, using specific carpets as emphasis.

It never even occurred to me to consider carpets as historically relevant, but Armstrong has managed to change my viewpoint. Some areas of “Empire” are dry, and this is the type of story that is geared to a specific audience, but I enjoyed some of the historical information, especially in the earlier chapters when the carpets were uncovered (no pun intended) during archaeological digs. Due to the specialized talent carpet weaving requires, especially in centuries past before modern machines, there is no argument that the creation of carpets, especially historical ones, should be considered artistic masterpieces in their own right.

“Threads” is a unique historical exploration that will hit the right note with a specific group of readers. Fans of political history, especially in the Middle East, and carpet weaving as an art form will enjoy Armstrong’s new non-fiction story.

[Rebecca · Rating 4 out of 5]

I won a free copy of this in a Goodreads giveaway. Here is my honest review.

I went into this with an open mind but expected to be bored. Carpets aren't something I can say I've given much thought to, but I have gained a sudden interest in history and ancient cultures, and that probably saved this book for me.

This book was a fascinating read. It covered many eras, countries, and cultures (some I'd never heard of) and gave me plenty of ideas for things I wanted to research further. Heck, I came out of this wanting my own Persian carpet and a new appreciation for the craft and art form.

[Margaret · Rating 5 out of 5]

I received an advanced reader copy of this book through Goodreads Giveaway, conveniently shortly after I developed an interest in rug/carpet design.

Who is this book for? People who love carpets, sure, but I'm not sure that's a very big population. I'd recommend this book to history buffs and political pundits, as this book offers a specific carpet-focused view towards those arenas. Weavers and other textile artists/creators might appreciate the stories associated with this craft. Trivia enthusiasts and the lifelong learners in your life may similarly enjoy this book.

The writing is warm, and easy to read. Armstrong clearly cares deeply about the subject, and clearly has deeply researched the topic as well.

Chapters are organized to focus on specific carpets. Each gives commentary, historical insight, and human connection.

The advanced reader copy does not contain the picture plates, but based on the descriptions in the picture-index, I'm sure they add more to the overall work.

[Kat · Rating 5 out of 5]

A masterclass in the history of the world... told through twelve incredible carpets! (I did a lot of Googling to seem images of the carpets!) Armstrong not only shares her love of textiles, she uses textiles to join together the textile and the history that was happening in the world! I learned so much! I was surprised and fell in love with history all over again!

If you like textiles... you will LOVE this book. If you like history... you will LOVE this book! I highly recommend!

I would like to thank Netgalley and St. Martin's Press for the digital copy of this book! It was published June 17, 2025.

[Logan Kedzie · Rating 5 out of 5]

As an aficionado of 'A History of X in Y Z's' - A History of Venezuela in 5 Candelabras, A History of Finance in 9 Libraries; A History of Distilling in 12 Steps - this book stands out.

First, it puts as much emphasis on the artifact as the process. It is about who made the carpets and how. This looks at people ignored in Horses and Trumpets history, but also includes them when relevant. Mostly, it cuts through lies and marketing. One of the features of Orientalism remains that what was hated was also what was desired, and so the contortions around understanding the meaning and provenance of different carpets was (and is) a significant effort, even if innocent.

Second, it is not a global history as much as an imperial history. This is what I suspect will draw the most flak to the book. It is not 'the world' as it is strictly Eurasian in scope. But it is always Eurasian, reaching Japan at one point, as the carpet is the product of a small group of cultures amidst East and West that acquired its cache through export to East and West, but also between East and West. You could take the carpet out of this history. It would be weird, but it would still be a great survey on empires. But with a focus on this one trade good, we get concrete examples of the complexity of empire, as different powers trade, plunder, and destroy carpets. And complexity is the key there. No empire stands alone, and they are always in contact and conversation. All uses of imperial power are abuses, but some are more benign than others. Thus, someone is going to be upset about "world" not being global and about textiles elsewhere, and someone is going to be upset about a contemporary take on imperialism that challenges its charm and its color. Whatever. If you are like me, this is how you wish it was taught. Presumably you can hit up the bibliography if you want something different.

Third, it is never linear. There is some chronology, but the story here of each of the objects requires linear study. Each chapter throws us back to the beginning, learning about something new or a facet that was mentioned previously but not explored. This is where the material history is allowed to shine. Each chapter has the feeling of a favorite short story where you find more things in it each reading. There is only one chapter where this fails, and that has to do with the narrative being too much of its own story to fit within the confines of the frame. The point is not a singular line of history but several that work through comparison, with different facts and themes reinforcing the other chapters.

Fourth, the carpet itself is a compelling thing to focus on. It is the perfect sort of item for a material history in its odd status as a bifurcated object. Even unto today it exists as something of both high art and of low culture, its function and beauty linked in a manner that I cannot say about a lot of other goods. So we have a sort of intuitive grasp of them as a thing, which the author only goes to emphasize in providing that initial sense of context of each of the carpets. (In other words, I too would be devastated to learn it was not a dowry.)

Overall, a stellar read. Other than being extremely informative. It clarifies lots of errant wrongness in conventional wisdom without being iconoclastic or confrontational. It presents history as a consistent interaction of cultures. And it is specialized enough of a field that the scholars and others involved feel more like characters in fiction, since the same ones reappear and we get to see them develop in different ways. And all of this without any slack in the value as scholarship.

My thanks to the author, Dorothy Armstrong, for writing the book, and to the publisher, St. Martin's Press, for making the ARC available to me.

[Elisabeth Ring · Rating 4 out of 5]

I love these "biography of things" that take a specific and often overlooked object and delve into what it can tell us about people and civilizations that came before us. In this case, the things we place beneath our feet, or under our knees, or between our horse and saddle. Most of the rugs discussed come from the same general area of the world, though the regions where the portions of their respective stories ultimately take place are much more scattered, as are the times in which they were created. The ways these practical objects are turned into trophies, too, is intriguingly multifaceted.

One thing sometimes lost in the discussion about objects and the things they tell us about a long-ago group of people is the individual or individuals who actually made them. For the most part, Armstrong points out, this has been lost to history—not just because of the length of time but also because, to our knowledge, they were skilled but poor, and/or—far worse for the historical record—women. There are few resources to fill in the gaps on who the individual weavers, of course; in some cases, they lived and died millennia ago. Armstrong attempts to fill that gap with suppositions about their lives based on the records we have about what life was like around that time and around that place. While those attempts weren't enough for me to feel I had a firm grasp on the time or place, but it did succeed in making me wonder about the hands that made the rugs in question on an individual level. Isn't imagination the first step to knowing someone? Wondering about their aching bones and the muscle memory that made animals and scenes of adventure appear out of knots and string?

That wondering is the thing that reveals—if not a weakness, then an oversight, or a preference not clearly explained in the front matter. Armstrong writes that her survey is obviously incapable of producing a thorough history of carpets or their makers or the people who have paid in fortune or blood to take possession of them. This is, after all, an "episodic and eclectic" survey of objects and history and power. Though the stories span the world, the origin of each carpet seems to come from a relatively small part of the world. Undoubtedly, the Middle East isn't the only creche for carpet artistry; I'd be interested in the origins of rugs from other regions, and how their legacies have endured. (And this is, as the subtitle tells us, the history of the world in twelve carpets!) Then again, there's a reason "Persian rug" carries such a reputation even today. And perhaps it's flattery for Armstrong that her work has left this reader wanting more.

[Kelly · Rating 3 out of 5]

Threads of Empire is an examination by Dorothy Armstrong of famous rugs across time and the history associated with them. I know next to nothing about rugs and carpets, but love learning about history in new and different ways, so this book seemed like a good one to read. I read an advanced copy that included no images, which for a non carpet connoisseur I makes it hard to visualize the carpets no matter how well Armstrong describes them. Since it is not intended to be a primer on how rugs are made, when Armstrong talks about the different weaving techniques or patterns it tends to go straight over my head. Perhaps a brief explanation of these (and images that may not be included in the ARC) would be helpful to someone being introduced to rugs for the first time. I struggle with how the best way to structure this book is. Armstrong centers chapters around specific rugs, but some chapters spend way more time on the rug, where others spend way more time focused on the provenance of the rug and the history from its creation to the landmark history it was a part of years and years later. Admittedly, I would probably prefer a format that runs sequentially across time instead of jumping back and forth, but I see where that could have its problems too. There were points where I found this very interesting and other points where I noticed that I started getting in the habit of skimming. This may be because of my personal interests, though I suspect others not heavily interested in carpets and rugs will do it too. A complimentary copy of this book was provided by the publisher. All thoughts and opinions are my own.

[Peter Tillman]

Here's an excerpt, about a late 19th century carpet fraud. The V&A museum got taken in an embarrassing scandal: https://lithub.com/how-a-centuries-ol...

WSJ's rave review: https://www.wsj.com/arts-culture/book...
(Paywalled. As always, I'm happy to email a copy to non-subscribers)
Note this is a dual review, the other title is "Carpet Diem”:
"This pair of books ultimately prompts readers to look twice at rugs on the floors around them and to seek out the details in the handmade textiles they might overlook every day. Like maps, globes and wristwatches, fine carpets endure because dedicated craftsmanship has a value all its own. Sometimes the old ways are best."

On order at our library. I'll take a look.

[Nancy · Rating 5 out of 5]

Carpets celebrate power but also illuminate powerlessness, and this book essentially examines both sides of that coin. From Threads of Empire by Dorothy Armstrong

I found this history to be fascinating. In learning about twelve carpets I learned so much history that was new to me. And the idea that antique carpets were hand created by nomadic women is truly impressive.

The carpets discussed are chosen to represent an entire history of Oriental carpets, from the very old to the commercial modern. Some are in museums, some were destroyed in war. One lay under the feet of Churchill, Roosevelt, and Stalin at Yalta. They were woven by women or convicts, were small enough to be used as camel blankets or large enough to fill hallowed spaces. They went from useful household furnishings to collectibles to valuable art displayed in museums.

I learned about the dyes and fibers used in the carpets, the difference between hand knotted pile and flat woven kilims, what the designs in the carpets mean.

The stories behind the carpets are truly fascinating, a glimpse into history.

The question was always about the historical role carpets played, and why they lend themselves to that. This book arises from that long process of questioning the way we talk and think about carpets and look at them as agents in historical events, and particularly at their strong relationship with power. from Threads of Empire by Dorothy Armstrong

Thanks to the publisher for a free book through NetGalley.

[OutlawPoet · Rating 5 out of 5]

Please sit down and read this book about carpets - something I never, ever thought I would say!

But you know what? Turns out carpets are absolutely fascinating!

The author's enthusiasm for their subject is definitely infectious and, before I knew it, I was reading tidbits of the book aloud to anyone in range. (Most appreciated the knowledge.)

The stories the author brings us are fascinating and enlightening - so much about history, culture, and the place of women, people of color, and the poor are entwined in the subject.

You'll never look at a rug the same away again.

An absolutely riveting (and surprising) read!

[Tonya Bryant Gillon · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book was something I wasn’t sure I would like to I did enjoy this book! I loved the history, the great d ed fails as to all the arguments about the origin of the various rugs. It was so well researched! I love hearing about the things found in various tombs and what all was buried with the nobility. It very fascinating. I re see ally enjoyed this book.

I want to thank NetGalley and St. Martin’s Press for the advanced reader copy. This is my honest review.

[Jeanette Durkin · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is very informative and interesting! I thought it was just going to be about carpets, but it's so much more! It includes the back history of many civilizations; some of which I'd never heard of. I found it all to be utterly fantastic! I'll never underestimate carpets or their makers again!

I was provided a complimentary copy of the book from the publisher via Netgalley. All thoughts and opinions are my own.

[Joanne Gass · Rating 5 out of 5]

An unusual, fabulous, history of carpets and their place in certain historical moments. I loved it!

[Teacher · Rating 2 out of 5]

I love handmade rugs, but I want to learn more about them.

Disclosure: I have a background in history, the Middle East and Islam. In fact, I have a Master's degree in a history field from Harvard.

I rented audiobook and was readily hooked. Delighted by author's breadth of knowledge and her charming story telling. Even the reader was good, and I am picky on this point because I am easily annoyed by mispronunciation or otherwise poor reading. All was going swimmingly, as is said. Until, author goes on a little aside about Shia Islam. I was stunned. Shocked. Speechless, even. I replayed it. Then, I got the physical book out to check.

What could and should have easily been caught by ANY editor, here, top of page 87 is a MASSIVE blunder. Actually, the author could have even fact checked with practically any common Muslim. Author mistakenly claims that Shia Muslims believe "Ali will return in form of the Mahdi" and prattles on making other stunning assertions.

Why does this matter? Many handmade carpets have Islamic iconography, are Islamic cultural treasures, produced by and interwoven with Muslim identities. In fact, Persian carpets arise from Shia Muslim hands. And many other carpets arise from Muslim hands and lands (the Ushak, Kurdish, Indo-Pak, Kashmiri, Damascene, Azeri, Turkish, Turkomam, etc). A working knowledge of the basics of Islam is critical to understanding the sociology of rug production, rug history, context and symbolism. The fact that the author is so wildly OFF on this fundamental matter throws everything she says into question. Because, if she is so extremely wrong about something so rudimentary, one can only speculate: malice or ignorance? And neither choice behooves a scholar and author in her position.

So I read the entire book, and overall, I was entertained. But my initial joy and enthusiasm were replaced by skepticism. Instead of being a tool for learning which I had hoped, I find myself questioning her account of history, wondering how much she is guessing or conflating in the other chapters.

I am sorely disappointed with Armstrong. I am also disappointed with the many glowing reviews, not one of which questioned, remarked upon or even noticed that Armstrong misinterpreted (or worse), the Islamic history component of her narrative.

[Edie Lee · Rating 5 out of 5]

The title is a bit deceptive. I wouldn’t call it a history of the world, although each chapter tells you about some period and place in world history. The carpets guide you along. In learning about them you discover all sorts of things that you probably didn’t learn about in school.

I highly recommend this book. My only regret is that there should be more pictures.

[Veronica · Rating 4 out of 5]

4 out of 5 stars

Carpets seem like an unusual medium with which to explore the past, but Dorothy Armstrong expertly weaves time and place together in her thoughtful and well-written book Threads of Empire: A History of the World in Twelve Carpets.

Armstrong examines twelve carpets spanning from the third or fourth century BCE to the modern day, and across the world including locations in Siberia, Syria, Egypt, Anatolia, Iran, Japan, India, Romania, Pakistan, and the United Kingdom. This scope provides insight into the larger political aspects of these societies and a look into the (mostly) women who weaved the carpets. Although the weavers are discussed in this book, Armstrong does mention how little is known about the weavers themselves. Due to social and political reasons and the lack of sources on the matter, the daily lives of the weavers largely remain a mystery. Each carpet gives a small glimpse into the society that crafted it, the society that bought it, and the society that displayed the carpets.

The strongest part of this book does not lie in the examination of the carpets themselves, but rather in the connections Armstrong makes between when and where the carpets came from and how that impacted where they ended up. The people who bought and sold the carpets and where they chose to display them present a fascinating look into history.

Even though Armstrong presents an interesting and concise history, the language used to describe the carpets and the methods of creating them proves difficult to follow at times. For someone not familiar with the process of making or studying carpets, these parts of the book will be lost on them and it is easier to gloss over these sections than to decipher the process.

Overall, this book gives a fascinating exploration of objects that connected people around the world throughout history. Carpets are highly common all over the world and most people never think twice about them. Armstrong brings new insight into this household item and provides a window for others to explore this as both art and history.

[Dan · Rating 4 out of 5]

My thanks to NetGalley and St. Martin's Press for an advance copy of this book that tells the history of the world through something that we take for granted, something to keep our feet from getting cold on the ground, the humble carpet.

My parents first big purchase after buying the house I grew up in was carpeting. The apartment they owned in the Bronx had not carpeting, maybe an area rug or two. The apartments they both grew up in also in the Bronx, had no carpeting either. I remember being told numerous times not to make noise to bother the neighbors downstairs, to walk carefully and softly. So my parents first big splurge was carpet. Upstairs, downstairs, the hallways, the bedrooms. Everything had carpets. They felt like they had made it, they had come to the suburbs, bought a house, and had wall-to-wall carpeting. Carpets have long been a sign of wealth. For a time only the rich, the powerful, the despotic, all had carpets, for their animals, their guests, and their throne rooms. Some of these were to celebrate great events, some just to show off. Threading back to the earliest days people have been weaving, carpets, the technology might have changed but the ideas are still the same. Along with the history they tell. Threads of Empire: A History of the World in Twelve Carpets by Dorothy Armstrong, looks at the world through the carpets that were created, some destroyed, some lost, others deep in museums unable to be seen in the light, but all with a tale about their creation and their creators.

The book begins with Armstrong discussing how an interest in carpets began. A carpet to big to travel to Cairo shared Armstrong's place in Cambridge and the the more Armstrong stared the more fascinating the carpet became. Soon Armstrong was taking classes, and visiting museums to learn as much as she could about carpets, their techniques and history. The book is broken into twelve chapters, each dealing with a particular carpet, from the earliest found antique, to the carpeting that laid under three man at Yalta who basically divided the world amongst each other. Each chapter offers a description to how the carpet was made, who for, and what was happening around the creators. What was the political life, any wars, battles, coups and more. Armstrong looks at the creators, mostly poor people with a skill, creating works to be shown in throne rooms, or to tell the story of a wedding, or a birth. Armstrong looks at how techniques were learned, passed on, adapted, or became passé. Dyes, fabrics, and designs are looked at, with illustrations showing the carpets if possible, or art if the carpets have gone missing, or been destroyed.

A different way of looking at the world, but one that I thought really worked well. The best part about this is that Armstrong looks at parts of the world that really doesn't get much attention. Central Asia, the far East, and gives not just a broad outline of their history, but looks at key moments, sometimes even reflected in the carpets creation. Armstrong is a very good writer, able to describe how to dye fabric, how civilizations rose and fell, and personal stories about the lives of weavers. Much of this is not something I was familiar with, and found very compelling and taught me quite a bit.

History readers will learn quite a lot from this, not only about carpets, but about the world, the past and modern world. There ia archeology, weaving, war, famines, and travelers tales, that form a very strong narrative, and one I enjoyed. Fans of craft making might even learn something from the work of these ancient artisans, creating works that have lasted so long.

[Richard Derus · Rating 4 out of 5]

Rating: 4* of five

The Publisher Says: Carpet specialist Dorothy Armstrong tells the stories surrounding twelve of the world’s most fascinating carpets.

Dorothy Armstrong’s Threads of Empire is a spellbinding look at the history of the world through the stories of twelve carpets. Beautiful, sensuous, and enigmatic, great carpets follow power. Emperors, shahs, sultans and samurai crave them as symbols of earthly domination. Shamans and priests desire them to evoke the spiritual realm. The world’s 1% hunger after them as displays of extreme status. And yet these seductive objects are made by poor and illiterate weavers, using the most basic materials and crafts; hedgerow plants for dyes, fibers from domestic animals, and the millennia-old skills of interweaving warps, wefts and knots.

In Threads of Empire, Armstrong tells the histories of some of the world’s most fascinating carpets, exploring how these textiles came into being then were transformed as they moved across geography and time in the slipstream of the great. She shows why the world’s powerful were drawn to them, but also asks what was happening in the weavers’ lives, and how they were affected by events in the world outside their tent, village or workshop. In its wide-ranging examination of these dazzling objects, from the 5th century BCE contents of the tombs of Scythian chieftains, to the carpets under the boots of Stalin, Roosevelt and Churchill at the 1945 Yalta Peace Conference, Threads of Empire uncovers a new, hitherto hidden past right beneath our feet.

I RECEIVED A DRC FROM THE PUBLISHER VIA NETGALLEY. THANK YOU.

My Review: My only complaint is this DRC had none of the images the finished book has; I waited to write this review until I saw a finished book, so I could judge for myself how well the author's careful descriptions of these art objects evoked my perception of them.

Very well indeed, as it happens.

Best aspect of the read was the charming-to-me blend of personal anecdote and intensive research. They're blended in a way that evokes the sensation of having a personal chat with that world-renowned subject matter expert who's our personal bestie that we all have. (Or wish we did anyway.)

Flying on her magic carpet of knowledge across huge spans of time and space, Author Armstrong shows us how human creativity and skill are "rewarded" by exploitation and subjugation all too often. The existence of imperialism is not new. It is always, however, driven by greed. The subject of greed shifts over time but it never leaves us.

As the chapters are devoted to specific carpets from different cultures and eras, coveted by imperialists, a chronological organization would not work very well. It's sort of loosely there if you squint just right. I recommend reading the book as presented, however, not trying to do something more "orderly" with its vast erudition on a subject I'd bet not many of us know much about. It might help to space the chapters out, more like stories in a collection. I did that more or less by accident.

It should surprise no one that the majority of the anonymous creators of these artworks were women, and all were from disadvantaged, relatively powerless groups. A recurring theme, this, in Western colonial attitudes.

Feminists, art-history buffs, anti-imperialist readers, and the serious trivia hounds are encouraged to pick one up. Casual lovers of pretty books, well, if carpets are you thing yes; we're not looking at a coffee-table book, though.

Well worth springing for the paper book. I think the ebook must have some of the illustrative images but how they come across will be heavily device dependent. Stick to the half-millennium-old printing technology.

[Carole Barker · Rating 4 out of 5]

A fascinating view of carpets through an historical lens

Who hasn't had a rug in their home or place of work at one time or another...in fact, who has had so many over the course of their life that they don't give much thought to what it essentially a floor covering? But Threads of Empire is not talking about the everyday, machine made, area or wall-to-wall carpet so prevalent today; it is instead about carpets woven by hand in small towns and larger cities by artisans who seldom profited greatly from the items they crafted over the last 2000+ years. The art form (and in many instances, that is exactly what it is) has been around for hundreds upon hundreds of years, and author Dorothy Armstrong (referred to in museum and academic circles as "the carpet woman") here tells the story of a dozen specific pieces which have survived until today. This is neither an encyclopedia of different patterns and cultures who produced carpets nor a guide to determining the quality and value of said items, it is a look at the history of the world through a particular prism that considers who the individuals were who created the woven carpets, who valued and possessed them, and how they relate to the trade and politics of the time. The artisans were generally poor, often illiterate and frequently women, while those who would own the items those workers created generally had and/or sought power and wealth, be they rulers, warriors, or heads of religions...the carpets were, and remain, symbols of statur In much the way that Mark Kurlansky wrote about both cod and salt, Ms Armstrong here brings the textiles that have fascinated her for years to a wider audience. Weaving (no pun intended) stories around each of the twelve carpets on which she is focused in the book, she shares information about the cultures and individuals who are believed to have created them, what was going on in that region of the world at that time, what the imagery reflected, and more. From the Hermitage Museum to Britain's V&A and beyond, from famed collector Sir William Burrell to the heads of state at the Yalta Peace Conference, Threads of Empire spans 2500 years of textile history. Every now and again the specificity of detail got a bit much for me, but never so much so that I stopped being engaged in the overall story. Readers of Mark Kurlansky and Peter Frankopan as well as those who appreciate history and art should absolutely give these informative and entertaining read a spot on their TBR list. Many thanks to NetGalley and St. Martin's Press (especially to Katie Layton who invited me to read the book) for allowing me access to Threads of Empire in exchange for my honest review.

[Sara G · Rating 4 out of 5]

***ARC received from St. Martins Press and NetGalley, opinions are all my own. Thank you!***

Threads of Empire is a unique view of history, told through the stories of twelve different carpets. While I expected that this might be more focused on the carpets its actually a balanced look at both the carpets that the history of the world around the time that they would have been created.

This history is expansive, covering both multiple time frames but also countries. There is chapter dedicated to the carpets that were laid out for the chairs that FDR, Stalin and Churchill sat in for the icon pictures taken during the Yalta Conference. I would have never thought to look at a simple carpet from such an iconic image and try to explore its background yet the author does this. Not just that but also the history of what was going on during the Yalta Conference.

I think my favorite chapter was the fourth chapter. This one is focused on a Jinbaori that was worn by Toyotomi Hideyoshi that was created using imported silk kilim that was woven in Safavid Iran. Its fascinating to think how far a single piece of fabric can travel back in the 1500s and what another country looked at it and decided to do with it. Textiles can travel far, easy to box up and trade as its always something that people would have a need for. I liked when the book followed the carpets from their makers up to current time.

This book can get a little heavy on the history and unfortunately it can get a little dry making it a little difficult to follow along. Not only difficult to follow along but a bit overwhelming. I was hoping for more about the textiles and the people that created them but this is probably more of a history book with the carpets a through point but not the main focus point.

The only downside to have a digital ARC was that I was missing the pictures. They are definitely needed to get a full picture of the carpets that are being talked about. The author does a good job of describing them and bringing them to life just through words but you really do need the images to get the full feel for the carpets.

In the end despite some of my issues I did like this book, I loved learning about the carpets. That something people created so many years ago still are around today even with the fear that the art may be lost. I do hope that this book may inspire others to pick up a textile art so that one day people would write a book about their art.

[Pierke Bosschieter · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’ve just finished Threads of Empire by Dorothy Armstrong, and it’s one of the most engaging and thought-provoking books I’ve read in a while — not just about carpets, but about history, power, and the people who so often get left out of it.

Armstrong, a historian and curator at the Ashmolean, uses twelve historic carpets to tell a much bigger story. These aren’t just decorative objects; they’re witnesses to empires, symbols of status, tools of diplomacy, and commodities in global trade. What’s striking is how she weaves together the personal and political — from the anonymous women and men who actually made the carpets, to the emperors, collectors, and curators who later owned, misinterpreted, or mythologized them.

The book is full of fascinating anecdotes — like how Stalin’s purges delayed the discovery of the world’s oldest known carpet, or how a group of Anatolian carpets in a Lutheran church inspired Dracula. There’s a samurai’s tunic made from a Persian carpet, and rugs that passed through the hands of Victorian collectors who were all too eager to believe a beautiful carpet must have been made by men. Armstrong is particularly good at exposing the layers of assumption and prejudice that have built up around these objects, especially in Western institutions.

What really anchors the book, though, is her focus on the weavers themselves. Often poor, illiterate, and working in harsh conditions — in villages, tents, prisons, or modern-day refugee camps — these women created objects of astonishing beauty and technical complexity. Armstrong clearly wants to reclaim their place in history, and she does so with care and insight. Her descriptions of materials and techniques are detailed but never dry, and her admiration for the skill involved comes through on every page.

There’s also a quiet but sharp critique running through the book — of how carpets have been used to display power, to signal wealth, and to reinforce cultural hierarchies. Yet Armstrong never loses sight of the artistry involved, or the dignity of the people who made them.

Threads of Empire is not just a book about carpets — it’s about how objects carry stories across time and space, often at great human cost. It’s beautifully written, deeply researched, and full of unexpected connections. Whether you’re interested in art, history, empire, or craft, there’s a lot to discover here.

Highly recommended.

[Annie · Rating 4 out of 5]

Originally posted on my blog Nonstop Reader.

Threads of Empire is a captivating and layman accessible monograph by Dr. Dorothy Armstrong about the geopolitical history entwined with textiles (carpets), their history and development from ancient to modern times. Due out 17th June 2025 from Macmillan on their St. Martin's Press imprint, it's 368 pages and will be available in hardcover, audio, and ebook formats. It's worth noting that the ebook format has a handy interactive table of contents as well as interactive links.

The author is a specialist scholar and curator with expertise in textiles writing deeply and well about her own specialty. She does a good job of illustrating the dichotomy between the powerful ruling classes throughout the ages and the lengths to which they would go to acquire these carpets which were the products of mostly poorer/illiterate/often female weavers.

It's written quite accessibly and in language which won't present many problems for laymen, but it's meticulously annotated throughout and the chapter notes and bibliography/references are likely worth the price of the book alone. The stories behind 12 particular historical carpets, curated by Dr. Armstrong, are fascinating and well told.

It's a niche book, but will definitely be on the radar for readers/fans of textile history, cultural history, political history, and allied subjects.

The unabridged audiobook has a run time of 10 hours 48 minutes and is narrated by Alix Dunmoore. Sound and production quality are high throughout the read.

Four stars. It would be an excellent choice for public or university/post-secondary library acquisition, home use, or gift giving.

Disclosure: I received an ARC at no cost from the author/publisher for review purposes.

[Desirae · Rating 4 out of 5]

In The Threads of Empire, Dorothy Armstrong weaves a rich and intricate tapestry—one that spans far-flung trade routes, the intimate weave of local lives, the grand theatre of world politics, and the subtle psychology behind desire and possession. What begins as a story about Persian and other luxury rugs unfurls into something far more complex than I had ever imagined—layered, elusive, and steeped in history.

While I found myself wishing for a deeper dive into the tactile processes—the spinning of thread, the rhythm of the loom—I was struck, and moved, by the attention paid to the hands behind the beauty: the poor, the enslaved, women and children. These are the often-invisible artisans whose labor has for centuries created objects of exquisite desire.

Fascinating too is the unexpected presence of Lutheranism, whose rise shaped not just spiritual life, but the way such objects were seen, valued, and moved across the world. That a rug—so humble, so everyday—could wield such influence is a quiet revelation.

Armstrong’s pages introduce us to a delightful cast of characters—dealers, collectors, certifiers, storytellers—all orbiting the rug with passion, precision, and, at times, peculiar obsession. Their quirks add color and life to the warp and weft of this historical account.

But perhaps what resonates most deeply is Armstrong’s unwavering attention to the shadows in the weave: the lingering traces of colonialism, cultural appropriation, and stolen heritage. These threads are not yanked into view, but gently, persistently woven through the narrative—asking the reader to look, to question, to reckon, without ever breaking the spell of the storytelling.

In lesser hands, this might have been a dry recounting of a niche artifact. But Armstrong writes with the devotion of one who truly feels the fabric she studies. The result is a book that is not just informative, but absorbing—a study of history’s long, knotted threads and the surprising ways they tug at the present.

[Brenda · Rating 4 out of 5]

The title of this book immediately took my mind to the rich world of culture, folklore and history. Carpets hold a certain allure and I was thrilled to learn more about author Dorothy Armstrong's "most storied" carpets created. As she says, this is a book about the relationships between carpets and power, in many different ways. A few extremely wealthy people obtained priceless carpets made by poor weavers. These weavers all had stories. But politics, tradition, religion and culture had roles and also illumined craftmanship. I wonder more about these people and in what context they made such wonderful creations. One of the most touching stories in this book is about a group of Indian prisoners who made the sheep's wool V&A carpet in jail. Another is the incredibly beguiling story about the small rugs in Iran critical for bread baking.

I absorbed information like a sponge including the carpets themselves, starting in the fifth century BC continuing until more recent times. Learning about shimmer, colours, motifs, designs and inscriptions (such as the Ardabil carpet) taught me much more about history and culture. I like that the Age of Empire knotted-pile Pazyryk carpet was frozen in time in a burial chamber with horses and what John Paul Getty did with one of his acquisitions for the sake of testing. But this book is chock full of geopolitics, too, which beautifully connected my brain with the carpets.

My copy of the book did not have photographs which would have been so useful. However, I felt compelled to do some internet digging so I could envision what I was reading about. On a smaller scale as an embroiderer, I can understand and appreciate the amount of skill and work which goes into this art and can envision the weavers working during daylight hours, some expertly with care, others forced to with fear of punishment. Very interesting!

[Anne Morgan · Rating 3 out of 5]

Threads of Empire: A History of the World in Twelve Carpets by Dorothy Armstrong offers a unique new way of looking at the historical connections across the globe. Each chapter focuses on one carpet, which Armstrong then uses to talk about the political and historical goings on of the area it was (probably) made in, where it is displayed now, where it was found, how they all interconnect and the carpet might have come from one plce to the other, etc.

Why were certain types of carpets valued as "the best" in different places at different times? I had always assumed it was either personal taste or the quality of the material and construction of the object itself, but Armstrong argues that politics of empire and race actually play a much larger role- and that what was considered "the best" type of carpet therefore changed depending on where you were and what your agenda was. Asthetics had little to do with it.

There were times where the writing was dense and hard to follow. Ironically, this was most often when Armstrong was talking about the rugs themselves. I never felt like I got any real understanding on the technical language of carpets she used, this seemed more like something she assumed you already knew and wasn't going to give a primer on to beginners. Some of the empires and traveling back and forth trade routes might have made better sense to me with maps (I'm more a visual person) but I read an ARC so the final version might have maps and images of the carpets she's talking about.

An interesting way of looking at trade routes, empire building, views of "other" over time and how it all changes through the eyes of carpets. Some chapters were definitely better than others but people interested in a different look at history should give this one a chance.

I received an ARC of this book through NetGalley in exchange for an honest review

[Sally · Rating 5 out of 5]

Threads of Empire: A History of the World in Twelve Carpets by Dorothy Armstrong is one of the most fascinating books I’ve read in a long time. I was drawn in by the author’s lyrical style of writing immediately. The subject matter is complex and complicated, loaded with historical and political facts and intrigues and the history and methods of carpet making, yet it was presented in such a way as to be approachable, accessible, and understandable.

The book is divided into twelve chapters, each focused on a specific carpet. It’s not that simple – or boring – though. You are taken on a magic carpet ride, so to speak, across time and space. Ancient history to the present, significant historical figures and places, the state of the world when each particular carpet was created and the disputes, conflicts and machinations involved in creating it, owning it, claiming it, following it through its lifetime and owners. Fascinating, centering situations and events you may have already been aware of on this particular decorative item.

It is apparent significant research went into the writing of this book and that each word was carefully chosen. Often when I would pause with a question, looking for further clarity about a word or phrase or paragraph, author Armstrong anticipated it and the answer I was looking for was right there in the subsequent text.

Thanks to St. Martin’s Press for providing an advance copy of Threads of Empire via NetGalley. It was so interesting and alive, never dry like a textbook lesson or lecture. I enjoyed learning about these carpets and the stories surrounding them and recommend this book without hesitation. I voluntarily leave this review; all opinions are my own.

[Ted · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is an interesting and unique type of history; one that is told in chapters that incorporate descriptions, comments, anecdotes and historical references for each of the twelve carpets presented by the author. The carpets range in age from the oldest, excavated from a 3rd or 4th century BCE Scythian burial mound in Siberia, to 16th century CE carpets from Iran, Turkey and India, an 18th century carpet from Turkey, 19th century examples from Iran and India, a deceptively interesting 20th century knotted-pile carpet from Cairo and 21st century carpets from Pakistan.

All of the carpets examined in this book are highly valued museum pieces and each has a story to tell. However, in many cases, the details of these stories (in particular, when the carpets were made, where they were made, by whom and why) are unknown and/or shrouded in myth and misinformation. The author has acknowledged these obstacles, dealt with them rationally and brought the stories of these carpets into print in a manner that both informs and entertains. In this regard, the book touches on a broad number of disciplines, among them: archaeology, anthropology, weaving technology, trade and commerce, ethnology, history, international relations and more. Who knew that carpets were connected to so many of these fields?

The book is well written and seriously researched; it is amply footnoted and has a large bibliography. I enjoyed every chapter of this book but have to give an extra thumbs up for Chapter 10 “Trickster” which explores the nefarious world of fraudulent high-end carpets and one particular restorer and trader who sold these items to wealthy collectors and museums. A Hollywood movie could be made about his life and his shenanigans. 4 stars

[Shireen · Rating 4 out of 5]

4.5 stars

This was such a well-researched and thoughtfully treated book! I found the use of carpets - their textile motifs and fabrication styles - as a diving off point into geo-political history rather a fascinating premise, and I was not disappointed. Each chapter takes a deep look at one particular carpet: usually rather ancient, sometimes with provable provenance, sometimes not. Most are under lock and key in venerable global museum collections. But the author goes the extra mile (or more) with research into the lineage of each carpet and what was happening in that part of the world at the time of its creation, and then takes you on a journey across its lifespan. I found it fairly easy to distinguish between fact and conjecture throughout most of the book; honestly I enjoyed the way that speculative history was presented in beautiful vignettes. And I can appreciate how much effort went into the research of this, having a professional background in museum and archival collections practices myself. The only reason I can't give this the full five stars is that the photos of the carpets were not included in the advanced reader's copy I received; how much more magical would this experience have been for me had I been able to see the vivid beauty of these carpets myself rather than having to rely on the author's descriptions of them, no matter how thorough they were? However, I'm sure that particular issue will be rectified with the official publication release.

Thanks to NetGalley, author Dorothy Armstrong, and St. Martin's Press for giving me access to a free digital ARC of this book to read and review. All opinions are my own and are provided here voluntarily.