An epic journey from New Zealand to Spain, celebrating the enduring romance of travel by train.
The journey of The Antipodean Express takes in 89 days of travel, on 33 trains, through 19 countries. It begins in New Zealand's North Island, weaves past the volcanoes of Java, through East Asia and on into Europe. From hilarious miscommunications in China to cultural immersion at the Bolshoi Ballet, there are stop-offs with half a world’s worth of impressions, people, history, food, music and culture. Hill also describes most of the great trains of the Eurasian hemisphere, from New Zealand’s Northern Explorer to the Eurostar, and everything in between.
The culmination is a day spent in the obscure Spanish village of Alaejos, locating the exact antipode of the author’s living room. The perfect end to a vast adventure.
ok so you know how NZers go on about how everyone knows everyone here...
I wanted to read this book because it's got trains, antipodes, and New Zealand. All things I like.
Starting to read, it turned out that the author and his wife are both in the NZSO. So, that's why their photos look familiar then.
Then he starts the book with a photo from his living room, to show where the journey starts. AND IT'S NEXT DOOR TO WHERE I LIVE. (well, basically). A very familiar view regardless!
And I've never heard any strains of French Horn wafting through the forest!
This book is about a journey with some similarities to one I did last year, and in past journeys I've travelled on several of the trains they did, even stayed in the same Bangkok hotel they did. Unlike me, Gregory and Anne left with a definite goal in mind: to visit the spot directly opposite their Wellington home, a wheat field in a fairly unprepossessing Spanish town of 1300 people. They also had a time limit - Anne had to come back to work, so they gave themselves 89 days. This may be why they did so much planning, or maybe they are just that sort of people, but they had each day planned before they left, with guides and nice hotels booked.
The trip is wherever possible by train, traversing Australia, Indonesia (which the author makes sound more interesting than I suspected), then up through mainland Asia and across Russia before catching a non-stop train to Paris and turning left for Spain. They took an extended side trip in China to Tibet. Each day is presented as a separate chapter, with plenty of pictures - the days they travelled without stopping provided the author some challenges to come up with new materials, but he'd often describe a new station or give a brief history of places they passed through. These little historical bits were good to have, without being too much.
I liked reading about life on the train, but it was good that they got off and looked around, rather than making this a race. They visit galleries, classical music venues (they are classical musicians themselves), churches, undertake a few physical activities and, very importantly, visit restaurants - I got quite hungry reading about many of their meals. The place they visit that reads as the most magical is around Lake Baikal - somewhere I have long wanted to go, but can't in present circumstances. They spent three days on or near lakeside, find a steam train, eat wonderful food: the way these chapters are written makes me wonder if they were a highlight for the author as well.
All in all, a very interesting and entertaining book.
The Antipodean Express: A Journey by Train from New Zealand to Spain by Gregory Hill is an engaging travel narrative that captures the timeless romance and adventure of long distance rail travel.
The book chronicles Hill’s remarkable 89 day journey across the globe, beginning in New Zealand and eventually ending in Spain. Along the way, he travels on 33 different trains through 19 countries, weaving together landscapes, cultures, and personal encounters that transform the trip into a rich and memorable exploration of the world.
The adventure begins on New Zealand’s North Island before expanding outward across Asia and Europe. Hill describes his experiences navigating different cultures, languages, and traditions, often with humor and curiosity. Moments of miscommunication in China and immersive cultural experiences such as attending a performance at the Bolshoi Theatre add both charm and depth to the narrative.
For readers who love trains, the book also serves as a celebration of some of the great rail journeys across the Eurasian continent. Hill highlights iconic routes such as The Northern Explorer in New Zealand and the high speed Eurostar linking the United Kingdom and mainland Europe, along with many other rail experiences that showcase the diversity of global train travel.
The culmination of the journey arrives in the quiet Spanish village of Alaejos, where Hill searches for the exact antipodal point of his living room back home in New Zealand. This unusual goal provides a thoughtful and symbolic ending to a journey that spans half the globe.
Overall, The Antipodean Express is a lively and reflective travel memoir that celebrates exploration, curiosity, and the enduring magic of traveling slowly by rail. Gregory Hill’s narrative reminds readers that the true joy of travel often lies not just in the destination, but in the countless stories gathered along the way.