Although I stick mostly to a strict, vegetarian diet (with an emphasis on fat-free, low carb, and low sugar foods); I do have a major weakness: cheese. The smells, colors, shapes, flavors… I love it all! I am a fan of Reaktion Books’ ‘The Edible Series’ and was therefore naturally drawn to Andrew Dalby’s installment, “Cheese: A Global History”.
Although “Cheese” is divided into four major sections (introduction, history, production, and consumption); Dalby’s work is far from straight-forward. The introduction is anything but clear preface. Dalby dives right into research foregoing any easement into the topic resulting in confusion and the reader feeling overwhelmed. This continues with Dalby’s tone which is overly scholarly, dry, and focuses too much on food science and hard history. ‘The Edible Series’ is usually “fun”, but “Cheese” is not for the novice reader.
In addition to being too scientific-sounding, “Cheese” is also choppy with repetition and has an unclear pattern and thesis. As mentioned, I love cheese but felt lost and bluntly: uninterested in the text. I also appreciate scholarly work (in fact, I prefer it) but Dalby’s narrative is simply not readable or smooth. It seems Dalby did not know the audience and wrote more for his peers (food experts).
Despite these flaws, “Cheese” presents some attention-grabbing facts. The question is whether the reader will remember these amongst the (too much) wealth of cheese knowledge. This brings another issue to the table: Dalby tries to fit too much information into a small space. One wants to tell him to slow down or cut back. Whether this is purely his writing style or due to a lack of editing I cannot attest; but either way, it is frustrating.
The final section, “Consumption”, is the strongest covering numerous topics from when cheese should be eaten, paired with what, and other cultural aspects. However, even this seemingly exciting portion of “Cheese” is still dry and too academic. This bleeds into the conclusion which is choppy and doesn’t resonate with the reader.
Like the other ‘Edible Series’ books, “Cheese” includes several glossy photos, illustrations, and woodcuts, sources/notes, websites to view on the topic, and recipes. Although the “recipes” (I use this term lightly), are basically historical quotes mentioning cheese in dishes. These are the positive characteristics of the book, however.
Overall, “Cheese” is quite a disappointment even for a cheese lover. It is unclear, overwhelming (even for a short book), and without a smooth pace or tone. There are hundreds of better introductory or academic (but more readable) books available on cheese. Dalby’s “Cheese” can be skipped.