[4.5] Beautiful writing about place and nature around one small town in southern Poland. At least, I think most of this book is gorgeous; if you're one to get enthused by 5-star reviews in the feed but don't always check the book page, you should know that quite a few people on here disagree with me. Also described as one of the country's key books of the post-Communist era – first published 1997. Perhaps a reconnection with non-political subjects, and feelings and philosophising over socialist realism – I don't know enough to do more than guess.
It's structurally strange: one long dreamy episode entitled, 'Dukla' includes many visits, wanderings and memories, and makes up over 70% of the book. Then towards the end, 17 short chapters, some which would be only a couple of pages in a print edition, contain precise and lovely vignettes about nature.
The main chapter has the feeling of both a holiday and being at home in the same town, and mostly alone - perhaps like having several days to yourself in somewhere you've recently moved to, or staying for a while in a place you used to live, from which most friends have moved away. Actually, the writings are drawn from many separate daytrips, the practical details of which are mentioned briefly, yet still it elides together, making it feel like one short period of time. (Its underlying theme is light - an attempt to capture the effects of light in prose rather than pictures; I did not find this so noticeable, but the scenes have strongly visual qualities, like photos or short films.) The writer mentions companions in passing, but the feeling is always of one lone person and his consciousness, meeting and describing this place. Initially, it's like all the descriptions from a book have been pasted together, with none of the plot. I love descriptions, but did nothing but descriptions make the book too slow, hard to get a grip on? At first, yes. Then something clicked, I flung myself into it and read it in a few hours, entranced.
It is not precisely organised: it gives the effect of following someone as they decide where to go on the spur of the moment, and hearing inner thoughts of their old memories on the way there and back - but as everything, both inside and outside his head is communicated by words, there's a sense of slipping and sliding between times: principally the mid-1990s, when this was written, and the 70s, when the author was a boy. (For a Pole of his age, or one who's a fan of vintage and retro, these 70s sections would be a feast of nostalgic references. I love the sentence where Stasiuk classifies an outfit historically, like a fashion ornithologist: early Gierek, Różyckiego bazaar in Warsaw. Even if you don't know what that look means yourself, if you pay attention to clothes, you will know of some equivalent - and perhaps also guess at Gierek's significance and duration, for we might conceivably say 'Thatcher' or 'Blair' in such a way, but probably not 'Callaghan' or 'Brown'.)
This book gets under my skin, puts feelings into words perfectly: things I didn't know how to articulate and which I don't think I've found before in other nature and travel writing. Maybe some Slavic race-memory. It's like the bits that were missing when Robert MacFarlane otherwise wrote down much of a feeling of things which I recognised, probably from being raised in the same country at the same time on a lot of the same books and TV. (All these hits make up for the slight misses: a few too many boyhood tales from Stasiuk, too similar to those heard from dozens of other authors, or an excess of mentions of his favourite tomb in the church.)
Stasiuk is also more metaphysical than most other writers I've read on these subjects.
especially in the night, when the terrain is stripped of its landmarks, when we’re driving... We’re traveling between place-names in a solution of pure idea. Reality doesn’t put up any resistance, so all stories, all consequences, all the old marriages of cause and effect are uniformly devoid of meaning.
Observing a dog out of the window on the same journey: At this time of day smell and hearing slowly lose significance, while sight hasn’t yet acquired it, so it’s best to treat everything as if it were a dream, a figment of the doggy imagination.
The feeling of stations, airports, and journeys generally, being places which are nowhere and everywhere, gateways of possibility, places where time pauses or changes shape is one I've always had, and which this year I keep encountering in different books and in other people's reviews. This is another version of same. The idea still hasn't been repeated anywhere near enough to lose its magic. A journey at night has that same feeling tripled.
Whilst these words seem to buzz with summer haze - always gorgeous yet sometimes frustratingly slow: nostalgic smell that makes you long to take a journey without a destination, moving slowly and tediously across a still, ornamental landscape
And I don't think I've ever heard another writer on similar subjects detach and hover above it all this way before, although similar thoughts have occurred to me if I'm feeling very calm and looking at a view for long enough, because of how differently I've felt in front of that same scene some other time: Actually, I’m not doing anything other than describing my own physiology. Changes in the magnetic field recorded by my retina, fluctuations in temperature, differing concentrations of scent particles in the air, oscillations of sound frequencies. That’s what the world is composed of. In a way it's simply the record of a nervous system.
Just occasionally he's delightfully silly, and all this seriousness is broken: I’m only interested in whether time is a disposable item like, say, a Povela Corner paper tissue from Tarnów . Don't know the brand (if it's a brand), but like to imagine it being one of those regionally specific items that used to differ between small newsagents in separate areas of the country.
Especially near the beginning of the 'Dukla' chapter, there are wonderful panoramas of humanity, the sort of thing I've only ever been able to describe as like The Divine Comedy's 'Tonight We Fly', and looking out of the window at night whilst listening to, or thinking of the song (as it felt when for years I was the only person I knew who loved that album. It will never compute that over ten years later, I saw it had become an end-of-gig, lighters-in-air anthem. Its essence is to be alone whilst thinking of distant others, who are more poignant for being distant.)
Dozens of them, hundreds, along the whole route thousands of bodies and souls, each one trying in its own way to cope with the day. They were sitting around tables, stoves, televisions. Their heads were populated with all the people they’d ever known or remembered. The people they knew and remembered had their own people, and those people had theirs... R. and I were talking but I kept losing the thread of the conversation, because infinity always inspires awe…
An untold number of past beings came together to make up his existence, and each of them was the size of the whole world. Reality is nothing more than an indefinite size of infinities.
The sense of night and its possibilities: I don't think I've ever seen it written in a way that gets closer to the way I feel than this. Very now and very decades or centuries ago and very primal, and with a sensory tang of summer evening:
Saturday evening into the bargain. Young men were swaggering along the side of the road, night was coming out to meet them and was so immense that each of them thought they’d see all their dreams come true.
Perhaps the TVs were waiting alone in empty living rooms, like faithful dogs. Leżajsk beer and wine viscid from the heat. The young guys were disappearing in the darkness, girls stood for a moment longer in the ring of light then vanished too. Through the windows of stores the shop girls could be seen in their regular clothes. Their aprons had already been thrown in the laundry. It was a sultry twilight carnival, as the dark hour advanced from the bushes and orchards. That’s where night assembles before it heads out into the world, while they were entering into it, vanishing, passing through the gloom one by one, lighting the way with their cigarettes, and meeting up somewhere in its heart, far from view.
People separate into their selves and their longings, emanate their own half-visible likenesses so the latter might try all forbidden things.
Another night, another place a few dozen miles away: We waited for dusk to fall over Kežmarok, so everything around us would disappear and there’d be darkness, which is the same everywhere, and allows you to breathe freely. Oh but yes, I nearly always feel better in the dark, and somewhere small and remote is best of all. Obligations are on pause, the world is far away; relaxation, and yes, [usually] breathe freely.
And another: In the beginning was darkness and now, at six forty in the evening in 1996, the oldest time is in progress. It always feels that way, especially in places without light pollution, where it gets truly dark. (Except when the moon is so bright you can understand why peasants sometimes worked by it.)
The morning, and afternoon, after: Sunday in a small town, witnessed as a quiet outsider:
the gravid Sunday atmosphere. Even the wind was slowly easing off. There was no sign of holiday debauchery. Nothing but a taut, condensing expanse. It embalmed the town, submerged it in transparent sap, as if it were to remain that way forever as a marvel of nature or an educational demonstration of what happens when time is utterly wasted. The only exception was a black mongrel with a tucked-in tail trotting along, blithely unaware it was Sunday.
There is something I know and feel here which has always been missing from the many clever evocations of Sunday boredom in British words and music, and I'm not sure I can pinpoint what it is, save that that idea of boredom and sorrow has always been inadequate.
I love the way the words make me feel this place:
That night I clambered up to my little attic room in the dark. There was a smell of resinous wood. The boards were radiating the heat they’d absorbed during the long day. I turned on the light. Black ground beetles hid themselves in the cracks of the floorboards. They looked like mobile drops of tar. I could smell them in the heated air.
It becomes a blend of really good saunas that still smell of pine, and slightly fusty-smelling rustic wooden European hotels in the 80s or 90s, but also much more alive than any of that.
This metaphor couldn't have come from a middle class contemporary writer in Britain: one showing through beneath another like a shirt under a threadbare sweater, like the skin of someone’s backside under well-worn pants. It has to be from another country, or from someone who's really known what it was like to be poor and among other poor people, for a long time.
The European mainland phenomenon of regular named windstorms – Mistral, Sirocco, etc. - that drive people a little mad, seems to the British so very florid and foreign and Other. It's something I'd love to experience first hand. Turns out this region has one too:
The warm southern halny wind hadn’t yet begun to blow. Right now it was probably gathering strength over the Great Hungarian Plain, stretching out its paw and feeling the south side of the Carpathians for fissures, low-lying passes, and broader saddles by which it could break through and descend on the unsuspecting Podgórze region, sowing mental havoc in its inhabitants...
Before the halny blows, everything is quiet and alien. Sparks dance inside bodies, nerves grow taut and overheated, the skin stops protecting them and for this reason the boundary between everyday banality and madness grows slender as a single hair.
Other local features:
The iron harrows on the wagons, the pitchforks, harnesses, rubber boots on bare feet, the symbiotic smells of stable and home, the powerful age-old interweaving of human and animal existence, curdled milk, potatoes, eggs, lard, no long journeys in search of trophies, no miracles or legends other than satiety and a peaceful death. They stood there, leaning on the wooden helves of their implements, rooted in the earth that would soon shake them off the way a dog shakes off water.
Reminds me that horses and carts were still in every day use in Eastern Europe in the 90s, but it looked a hard-knock, dusty-road life, not obviously picturesque. Trying to see those scenes now with later eyes, after discovering the pleasure in the 'metaphorical carry water and chop wood', but still, what strength of mind and constitution it might require to be without so many things I've been used to. Damn, he puts it infinitely better. All that's contained there.
Some beliefs from this vanishing world: In my grandmother’s stories the world of supernatural beings didn’t have anything to do with the world of the saints, the church, ritual. The former was an everyday matter, while the latter served as a measure of time, material for invocations and for a moment of respite on Sundays. The ghosts came as visible proof that in essence reality is indivisible, and that things are rather different than they appear.
One journey takes Stasiuk and companions over the border into Slovakia, increasing Dukla's sense of place by widening context:
Where can anyone go from Dukla? From Dukla you can only return. It’s the Hel Peninsula of the Carpathians, an Ultima Thule in the form of a town. Beyond here there’s nothing but wooden Lemko cottages and the concrete remnants of Le Corbusier’s bastards—which is to say, things that present no challenge to the landscape. There are never more than two buses waiting at the bus station at any one time. Long-haul trucks from Romania slow down for a moment, for half a mile, then at the Cistercian monastery they floor it again.
One of those end-of-the-line small towns. I find them hard: they make me feel like a frustrated, trapped teenager, but then on an island they're usually near a coast and have that distinct coastal rundown-ness ('Every Day Is Like Sunday'). There is only one way back out. Hundreds of miles from the sea, they're not really at the end, there always is somewhere else if you keep going long enough: We’d crossed the Carpathians, fled their northern shadow, and all of a sudden light was omnipresent...
The dumplings, gravy, potatoes, sausage, and cabbage still belonged to the north, but everything else was more like fire than earth. The sulfurous yellow walls of the buildings, the red and orange and pink of flowers in the window boxes of crumbling apartment houses on Vysoká, sweat and suntan, I liked this visual and food-based characterisation of Slovakia (not least because I've just been watching - despite the abundance of deliberately bad jokes – the Hairy Bikers' Northern Tour, which didn't make it quite this far south): Stasiuk indicates a place of transition between Baltic Poland and Romance-language Romania.
Poland's religiosity is most obvious here in a few informational curios about confessionals:
In Slovakia both confessor and penitent could enclose themselves in a huge wooden chest. Not like in Poland, where the sinner has to kneel before the eyes of the entire church, his only thought how to rise as quickly as possible and melt back into the throng of decent folk. Later, a long and intriguingly anthropological vignette about what could only be a papal visit (he is never named) reveals that there is such a thing as a portaconfessional. Only in Poland!...? Though perhaps Italy? Philippines?
Stasiuk's nature essays are beautiful and tragic and kind.
The yellow of their peacock eyes has the warmth and brightness you can see in the windows of country cottages as a clear frosty dusk is falling, when it looks as if pieces of the burning western sky have been mounted in the frames.
These are hundreds of butterflies which hibernated in an empty room in a house and died there, naturally. So I thought this was going to be one of those books which implicitly show that Europeans think Brits overly sentimental about animals, and that Brits would think Europeans unfeeling. (As is said a couple of times in The Year of Living Danishly, one of the reasons perhaps being that they didn't urbanise so quickly and it's only a generation or two since many more Continentals were living off the land.)
Not so. (He's a Warsaw transplant, a downsizer.) I found the vignette of the dead butterflies very sad, assuming this was my projection, that I felt for the creatures themselves as more than a symbol of the passing of time. But the writer must have intentionally infused this feeling: later he tells of rescuing crayfish from a dried-out creek and putting them in buckets of water – not to eat them, as I expected (cf. Nordic crayfish parties), but to take them to another creek, which had water. During a storm, he also rescues a few migrating swallows by opening windows for them, though many others unfortunately died outside: Five swallows flew into the house. They settled on the stove, close to the ceiling. We were able to take them in the palms of our hands. They made no attempt to fly away. The tiny drumbeat of their hearts was unimaginably fast. How precious, in the best possible way.
[Green lacewings - see comment 2.]
Stasiuk is wonderful at winter:
The following simple phrase provoked what I can only describe as raw lust for a proper Continental climate with proper bloody winters: In the night the temperature fell to twenty-two below. I've had this most of my life, and I enjoyed those really cold winters a few years ago – they did not put me off in the least, made me feel more alive even whilst my fingers and feet were numb. (I also love going barefoot on cold stone floors or lino, but unfortunately, chillblains: the spirit is willing but the flesh is weak.) And he understands this: like the delicious tingling in the feet and hands felt by a drunk in the frost.
The barking came from the south, but there were no villages there, and so the sound must have been circling amid the frozen expanses of air like an acoustic fata morgana.
Every branch, every tiniest blade of grass, was sheathed in a transparent cover.
When the frogs come out from beneath the earth and set off in search of standing water, it’s a sign that winter has grown weak. White tongues of snow still lie in dark gullies, but their days are numbered. The streams are bursting with water, its animated, monotonous sound can be heard even through the walls of the house.
He ends, though, with summer. And in a post that's mostly quotes, it's easier to end with the book's last words, for I couldn't so well. (And also, peculiarly, derive a peculiar comfort from the idea of Ozymandian oblivion as presented in the last sentence.)
Or high, bright afternoons. At these times the blue looks like painted glass. Hot air rises from the bottom of the Ciechań and between Czumak and Czerteż you won’t see a living soul. There are only adders warming themselves on the old gray roadway. But they’re merely flesh, as everyone knows. And if a weather front happens to be passing through, in the chasmic depths of the blueness long white clouds will show up. They look like bones, like a scattered and hazy vertebral column. Because that’s how things will be at the very end. Even the clouds will vanish and all that will remain will be an endless blue eye hovering over the ruins.