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Today, as Chinese tourists take snapshots and buy kitsch at Tibetan monasteries, young nuns quietly continue the underground fight against Communist rule. In Dharamsala, over cappuccino, exiled monks pitch their cause to Western pilgrims decked out in gaudy robes. Tibetans recall the terrible days of the Great Leap Forward and eagerly ask French for news of the Dalai Lama. In the presence of this internationally revered spiritual and political leader, French retains a measure of his youthful amazement, but finally, inescapably, he comes to disturbing conclusions about HisHoliness's role in his people's collective tragedy.
With immense learning and a clear but compassionate eye, Patrick French gives us a sober new understanding of a culture's senseless catastrophe and allows us to see what realistically can-and cannot-be done to alleviate it.
Patrick French was born in England in 1966. He studied literature at the University of Edinburgh, and is the author of Younghusband: The Last Great Imperial Adventurer, which won the Somerset Maugham Award and the Royal Society of Literature W. H. Heinemann Prize, and Liberty or Death: India's Journey to Independence and Division, which won the London Sunday Times Young Writer of the Year Award.
About the Author: Patrick French was born in England in 1966. He studied literature at the University of Edinburgh, and is the author of Younghusband: The Last Great Imperial Adventurer, which won the Somerset Maugham Award and the Royal Society of Literature W. H. Heinemann Prize, and Liberty or Death: India's Journey to Independence and Division, which won the London Sunday Times Young Writer of the Year Award.
352 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2003
I was asked the same question over and over, as I always was by rural Tibetans who were far from information: Did I know anything of Kundun, the Presence? Had I seen him? Was he safe? ... Would he ever come back to Tibet?
Meanwhile, at the Forest Lawn Memorial Park in Los
[caption id="" align="alignright" width="240"]Tibet, Tibet by Patrick French[/caption]
Angeles, the Dalai Lama blessed a new Shi-Tro mandala (a three-dimensional religious sculpture) in front of a large, paying audience. The mandala had been created by a Tibetan monk who ran a local Buddhist centre, assisted by his American wife, who worked in creative marketing for Warner Brothers Records Inc. She had generated volumes of publicity, using the slogan “Shi-Tro Happens.” The Los Angeles Times described this as “marketing the mandala in a hip and humorous way.” So, there was the Dalai Lama, up on stage, Shi-Tro happening, the ceremony compered by the requisite Hollywood star, in this case the actress Sharon Stone, famous for lacking underwear in the movie Basic Instinct, but this time wearing a feather boa and bare feet. After musing aloud for a while about how she might introduce the Dalai Lama, she finally settled for, “The hardest-working man in spirituality … Mr. Please, Please, Please let me back into China!” The fact that the Dalai Lama came from Tibet was momentarily lost….- p.122, Tibet Tibet by Patrick French
Patrick French's 2003 book on Tibet was my first book on this fascinating region. Having just returned after 6 weeks behind the great firewall, my eagerness to read more about Tibet had only increased. For, in a premier University campus, no less, was I prevented from reading the Wikipedia article on Tibet, leave alone any Dalai rant that sought to destabilise the "national unity of the motherland". Apart from several experiments with proxy servers and overconfidently trying to set up Tor, I finally came to terms with the stupendity of the Great Firewall of China, despite Winter & Lindskog's spirited efforts (PDF from arxiv) at "understanding of China's censorship capabilities and ... more effective evasion techniques".
So, what I wanted was not some Hollywood Tibetophile version of great oriental discovery of eastern stoicism and spirituality. I was already quite familiar with the "other side", having read and heard Hitchens on numerous occasions launch scathing attacks on the Dalai Lama for his "holier-than-all image", seeking donations from apparently dubious entities and other things summarised in "His Material Highness", an article Hitchens wrote in 1998. I sought a more information than opinions and discourses. And I was quite pleased with Patrick French's Tibet, Tibet.
The book starts and ends at McLeod Gunj, that place in Himachal where all Tibetan roads lead to. In a 1987 visit that he recalls, back in the days when pro-Tibet demonstrations were at their peak, Patrick recalls Ngodup, who cooked for guests at the monastery guest rooms. He later describes how he watched with horror on TV, this introvert Tibetan set himself ablaze in protests in Delhi. So begins his journey of wanting to go back into Tibet. With time, the initial magic and awe of all things Tibetan, also understandably wore away for the author and he too sought to see the "real Tibet", the one offered to him beyond the popular books of the Dalai Lama and the speeches of Gere and Segal. So, he undertakes a journey backpacking through Tibet and the provinces around the present-day Tibet, that at least at some point in history were united under Tibetan kings.
In all the places he visits, he brings in a bit of travel writing, narratives of people
The Potala palace in Lhasa. Major Francis Younghusband marched the British troops after the 1804 invasion of Tibet.[/caption]who went through Mao's purges and revolutions and lived to swallow their tales with humorous titbits of daily life. Some of the accounts are chilling (such as how many Tibetans suffered during several phases of Mao's rule) and others informative (Francis Younghusband's campaign to Tibet from India, Tibet's former military might, the corruption and decadence in Tibetan royalty and the extreme poverty of a large portion of its people). Of course, while doing a remarkable job keeping his (previous?) biases of Tibet (what he calls the mind's Tibet - he was after all once the head of UK's Free Tibet movement), his disdain for the Han people does come through. While getting a rich picture of the oppressed Tibetans from very different regions first-hand, the one-kind stereotype of the Han is quite evident and one wishes there could have been a richer detail of them too. Yet, a self-critical account of the Free-tibet movement and its Dalai-centredness is also given. Indeed, at various points he revisits his own ideal notion of "mind's Tibet" versus the real one, grey and lifeless towns in reality recollected quite differently in narratives. GOing further, he analyses historical misjudgments of the Dalai Lama in resolving the issue and even brings it up in a final meeting with the Dalai Lama in the last pages.
Isabel Hilton's review sums it up rather well in a review in The Guardian:
French's reporting is excellent and this is an enjoyable and informative tour of Tibet. His conclusions, though, invite some questions. The Dalai Lama himself regards it as self-evident that his decades of efforts to come to an agreement with China have borne no fruit. But it seems a little harsh to assume that this is solely through his own naiveté or mismanagement. China in the decades since 1949 has hardly been a stable or rational interlocutor for anyone attempting to negotiate - especially from a position of weakness. A more generous observer might congratulate the Dalai Lama that Tibet still exists at all, rather than rebuke him for failing to tame the dragon.
The Dalai Lama does not claim infallibility, whatever his followers or his western supporters might claim for him, nor have the majority of Tibetans ever auditioned to be characters in a western fantasy. That does not diminish the injustice they have suffered or render them any less deserving of support.
Endnotes