Uses for Obsession: A Chef's Memoir

by Ben Shewry

An intimate, searing and hopeful memoir meets manifesto that reframes the way we think about restaurants, cooking, hospitality, leadership and humanity from one of the most respected chefs in the world.

Chef and restaurateur Ben Shewry knows obsession well. Whether it's crispy-edged lasagne, saltwater crocodile ribs or the perfect potato, obsession is what motivates him and what makes him tick. It's also what has propelled his restaurant Attica into the league of the most innovative, acclaimed dining experiences in the world, and arguably the most vital in Australian history.

In this absorbing and wide-ranging memoir meets manifesto, Shewry applies his sometimes searing, sometimes comic eye to creative freedom in the kitchen, food journalism, sexism in hospitality, the fraud of the farm-to-table sustainability ethos, the cult of the chef and the legendary Family Bolognese.

Raised on a farm in a close-knit rural New Zealand family, he shares how a childhood surrounded by nature and a reverence for First People's cultures has influenced his work, the values he lives by, and the meticulous, inventive multi-course menu that is synonymous with Attica. Uses for Obsession also tells the intimate, desperate story of how his Melbourne restaurant survived 262 days with an empty dining room. How, during a time of epic hospitality transformation, it morphed into a takeaway food business, a merch shop and a summer camp. He was told it couldn't be done and that doubt both tortured and drove him.

At its heart, this is a positive story, an antidote to the macho chef culture that thrives on old ideas about leadership and success. Shewry prosecutes the compelling case for a new way forward. A bold blueprint for the restaurant - and workplace - of the future. One built on kindness, community, truth and a commitment to never give up.

Genres: Nonfiction, Memoir, Food, Audiobook, Cooking, Ebooks, Biography Memoir

272 pages, Paperback

Published October 15, 2024

About the author

Ben Shewry is a New Zealand chef and owner of Attica restaurant in Melbourne.

Reviews

[Pamplemousslacroix · Rating 2 out of 5]

Man … that was … I don’t even know

👉👈 kinda energy but also like deeply sermon-y like the combo of someone telling me endlessly how much of a good person they are and then name dropping a bunch of people but trying to do it in a chill way just like bummed me out and kind of negated the whole chapter about how fucked the food reviewing industry is which I agreed with and was interested in

The best p parts were when he let the food talk - I don’t care your business mentor owns Uber yet you still spend time with elders on country like dude shut upppp!!!! Multiple times I like shook my head or groaned out loud.

So many contradictions that I guess is kinda the whole problem with “fine dining” period.

Like if ur so weird why r u wearing Nikes core

I respect anyone who puts their heart and soul on the line writing a memoir but all I learnt about this dude was that I wanted him to stfu

[Lou · Rating 4 out of 5]

I’m not always a fan of the author narrating their own books/memoir and had doubts early but then I got to chapter 23 and knew it could only have been Ben himself. His chapter 24, 28 rules for a kitchen could apply to every workplace as his number 1 Do: Do apologise sincerely if you’ve been a mother-fucking arsehole

[Dora Yu · Rating 5 out of 5]

I got so much out of this book. Ben is a sharp, witty writer with a clear moral voice. So many gems on building a high creativity, high performance, high empathy workplace culture, being a good human in general and of course bolognese.

[Caroline Anderson · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great recommendation from sissy! Loving audiobook mornings right now 😌

[Dave Minehan · Rating 4 out of 5]

A really tremendous book. It may be the first, but certainly it's the best memoir I've ever read.

Perhaps it's a trite metaphor given the context, but it feels almost like a recipe book, each chapter a different flavor, a different perspective, a different spin. Stories told about the life of an elite chef, funny like a Foster-Wallace / Sedaris way, and deeply passionate. Coming together to provide an insight into what food means, what community means, what we can do to be ourselves in a better, truer, more loving way.

If there is any complaint, it seems like Ben is just too nice a guy. It's sometimes a but dull to know he made great sacrifices, cares about his staff, challenges stereotypes against native ingredients, is an environmentalist, and feminist and, stands up for the little guy... I think I'm used to the balanced characters of fiction.. or maybe I'm just jealous.

I'd recommend it to anyone. Really stunning.

🧑🏼‍🍳🐁💞

[Dale B · Rating 3 out of 5]

interesting story and book, maybe not as much cooking content as I was expecting but still a good read for a profession many appreciate but don't get to see the otherside of.

[L · Rating 4 out of 5]

Loving my new cache of chef / foodie memoirs. This was a banger! The guy sounds completely mad. Loved the lasagna / bolognese section, oh my word. Ok I’ve never heard of his restaurant (exposing my ignorance here) but now I would love to eat there. Seems unlikely given the prices tbh

[Kate Littlejohn · Rating 5 out of 5]

Thoroughly enjoyed this peek into the world of fine dining and how one of Melbourne’s most acclaimed restaurants has evolved. A surprising bonus was that Ben Shewry is a really talented writer, which took this memoir to different level. I loved learning about his thought processes, values and passions.
While reading this I listened to a couple of podcast discussions with him, and briefly met him at an event. His voice and presence reflected his persona which shines through in the book.

[Katherine Cummings · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved this book and think anyone would benefit from the depths, hopes and dogma written in this book - especially if you have worked in a creative field or you've had to fight to get to where you are today.

I highly recommend this insightful work to anyone - even if you don't know the author or his work.

Attica and Ben Shewry provided hope, entertainment (delicious, simple food) and a much needed distraction during Melbourne's lockdowns. Still, when I met him at his launch I couldn't shut up about a carrot his team had served me in 2017 (mea culpa). He is just that good and overall his work (this book amongst it) continues to amaze and provide such incredible depth and integrity the world needs more of.

[Corinne Johnston · Rating 2 out of 5]

I really looked forward to reading this but it is a DNF for me. Maybe if you are a Melbournian, and have eaten at Attica, and know more of Ben than this Sydneysider does it would resonate more. The entire chapter with 'God' it was obvious who it was, why not just say the name Massimo B?? I enjoyed the David Thomson segment, having had the joy of meeting him and perusing many of his Thai memorial books, and hearing him speak about Royal household kitchens. When Ben writes about others it is great, but there is way too much of how great he is. Not for me.

[Amanda Martin · Rating 5 out of 5]

I didn't want to put this one down and wanted to circle straight back to chapter one as soon as I finished. What a gem - both book and human

[Garreth · Rating 4 out of 5]

It’s wild how much overlap there is across creative fields. Shewry’s memoir gives real insight into the struggle of passion and creativity, and how others often try to cash in on it. It’s oddly reassuring to know there are other creatives, chefs, artists, musicians, designers, who push back against the system with a defiant middle finger.

[Jonathan · Rating 3 out of 5]

Written with personality and frequently with humour, Uses for Obsession is compelling and readable in a way that makes it easy to recommend. The book is basically a collection of vignettes (as the subtitle says, a memoir) and also personal essays — there are a lot of thesis statements here. Yet not just between chapters, but also within them, there is a flow across the pages, which I think in part comes down to Shewry's conversational, and conversationally direct, voice. Prioritises breadth (and spans decades), which tracks: it's (accurately) described as a memoir. 3.5 stars.

[Lochie Todd · Rating 5 out of 5]

It took me a little while to get used to each chapter not being in chronological order, but I loved each and every one of them. 10/10 lasagna recipe also included which was incredibly complicated but absolutely worth the effort.

[Erin · Rating 5 out of 5]

After reading the chapter on restaurant critics, I hate to write a review of this book but, I have to put down 5 stars to show how much I enjoyed it and recommend it! Looking forward to reading again and returning to highlighted sections 😊

[Emily · Rating 5 out of 5]

Note to self: read these types of books from people who are actually doing the damn thing 💙

[Lauren · Rating 5 out of 5]

I laughed and I cried - like, a lot! Hospo or not, everyone could learn something from this one. ❤️

[Natalie Fraser-Jones · Rating 5 out of 5]

I adored this book! I love food, but I’m not super interested in the chef or hospitality industries. But I loved Ben’s stories and reflections on his career and humanity generally. And very interesting stories about indigenous foods and ways of cooking in NZ/Aus

[Steph La · Rating 5 out of 5]

I don’t think I have the words to describe the effect this book had on me. I’m in awe of Ben’s reflections - his respect for culture, his team and people in general. I admit that all I knew about Attica before reading this is that it’ll be where I have one of my milestone meals. But I’m so so grateful that this book exists because now I know more about it, the people and soul behind it. My heart is feeling so warm and toasty 🥰

[Jessica Tong · Rating 5 out of 5]

Although I’ve unfortunately never set foot in Attica, I highly enjoyed getting an insight into how Ben Shewry thinks and hearing about his stories working as a chef.

[Teruni · Rating 5 out of 5]

This has to be one of the best books I’ve read all year. I’ve always been a fan of Ben Shewry, even more so now. His no bullshit approach, creativity and compassion for hospitality and people in general was inspiring to read. Really excited to make his bolognese and eat at Attica one day.

[Caitlin Piepke · Rating 4 out of 5]

Coming from someone who loves cooking, I loved this book. Massive respect to Ben.

[Shera Melton · Rating 3 out of 5]

Unfortunately, this book was not what I thought it would be. It's not bad, but it is also not great. I think I would have rated this book much higher if 1.) the synopsis had more correctly prepared me for what the book would ACTUALLY be, and 2) if I had read it physically instead of on audio. The author narrates the book himself, which I normally love, but he wasn't the best at reading a book out loud for audio recording. I thought it would be a tale of him in the kitchen, telling us about how he learned to cook from all these different people in different places along the way, and then finally found his personal style and opened his own restaurant. But it's not so much that. It is more of a preachy rant about how so many people in the industry are crappy people and do these terrible things but still get all the praise and recognition. Which, is true and fair. But I wasn't expecting that based on the synopsis. The other part of the book was the author going through a deep depression, his restaurant is failing, be isn't spending time with his kids, and his life is in shambles...which as someone who also suffers from depression I get it, but it just really made the book sad overall. And again, I wasn't prepared for that. This book is short, less than 300 pages, but it felt sooo long.

[Rosa Ritchie · Rating 4 out of 5]

What would the world be like if we all lived life the way Ben describe’s his own? I put this down feeling energised to do more of the stuff I care about, to a higher standard, sans bullshit.

[Sean Dawson · Rating 3 out of 5]

It’s fine. Reads more like a part of a larger exercise in building a celebrity brand around an exceptionally minded chef more than anything else. Some interesting stories. Some boring ones. Lots of name dropping and unnecessary references to ‘cool’ cultural elements not otherwise connected to the cooking industry in Australia. Padded out by a massive chapter entirely dedicated to the chefs obsession with lasagne, which comes across as ill conceived when considering the inclusion of other (good) chapters about the horrible restaurant review industry, and rampant misogyny in kitchens. Worth the read if you’re interested in the chef and the restaurant, but maybe not worth it otherwise.

[Emma · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved the deep humanity of Ben Shewry and the compassion and regard he holds his staff, coworkers and industry in. This arc of Shewry’s memoir was funny and thoughtful and emotional.
Feeling an intense desire to eat lasagne right now!

[Maddie Preece · Rating 3 out of 5]

I read this book as homework for my upcoming trip to Ben’s restaurant next month 🤗 an eye opening take on the restaurant industry, sustainability and sexism in the workplace. Witty, frank, easy to read. Last few chapters on leadership I loved.

[Yazzpacho · Rating 5 out of 5]

so so good. Ben is a brilliant writer and I was so drawn to his world and thoughts etc (naturally)

[Beccybec · Rating 3 out of 5]

Really enjoyed this book at first — Ben’s voice is so real and engaging! But by the end, it started to feel a bit like a lecture, and left me feeling more exhausted than inspired.

[Kiwiflora · Rating 5 out of 5]

Truly excellent memoir of a life devoted to cooking, cheffing, being a restaurateur, and all round decent human being. In an industry known for huge personalities and huge egos, well-documented and anecdoted hard and ruthless work culture, a man such as Ben Shewry is a shining light in how to treat people well, and as a result getting the best out of them. The past four years or so have been ample testament for all of us how crucial patience, empathy and that overworked word kindness are to achieving good outcomes. The hospitality industry suffered a mammoth blow in 2020, and somehow Ben, his crew and his restaurant weathered it all. His last line sums up the book perfectly - 'And really this book is not about food; it is about an acute dislike of bullshit'. His opinions on the food critic and award business are bold, angry and inflammatory. It would be so interesting to hear how the critics have reacted to this, even if he is being called out for participating and benefitted from the media circus. He comes across as exceptionally well grounded - a result of his rural NZ childhood perhaps? His determination and love of using indigenous ingredients and preparation/cooking methods is admirable and great to see, educating the diner and progressing the how we dine out. This is a fabulous read, a lesson in how to live our own lives well and with meaning.