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India’s Most Legendary Restaurants
Seven Indian eateries found a place on influential online food encyclopaedia Taste Atlas’s elite list of 150 legendary restaurants of the twenty-first Paragon in Kozhikode, Tunday Kababi in Lucknow, Peter Cat in Kolkata, Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba in Murthal, Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR) in Bengaluru, Karim’s in New Delhi, and Ram Ashraya in Mumbai. In this book, five writers trace the humble origins of these immensely popular eateries and describe their many savoured offerings, including Paragon’s delicately spiced biryani, Tunday Kababi’s succulent galawat ke kabab, Peter Cat’s elaborate chelo kabab, Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba’s wholesome makkhan-topped parathas, MTR’s invigorating filter coffee, Karim’s rare firdausi qorma, and Ram Ashraya’s indulgent pineapple sheera. Each essay unravels decades of culinary evolution and the influence India’s ever-changing culture, politics, and geography have on the ‘business’ of feeding people.
Interweaving memories, interviews, and more than thirty mouth-watering food recommendations, this is an entertaining chronicle of how these iconic restaurants and their fabled creations came to be.
Interweaving memories, interviews, and more than thirty mouth-watering food recommendations, this is an entertaining chronicle of how these iconic restaurants and their fabled creations came to be.
178 pages, Kindle Edition
Published May 10, 2024
14 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 6 of 6 reviews
June 12, 2024
"India's most legendary restaurant" is a captivating culinary journey that delves into the stories of seven iconic Indian eateries . The book, penned by five talented writers, masterfully traces the humble beginnings and evolution of Paragon in Kozhikode, Tunday Kababi in Lucknow, Peter Cat in Kolkata, Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba in Murthal, Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR) in Bengaluru...and many more .
The narrative beautifully weaves together memories, interviews, and a plethora of food recommendations, offering a rich read of India’s culinary heritage. but also explores the broader there culture, tradition and more
The writers’ detailed and deep discription into the history and significance of there dishes make for an engaging read. The stories of Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba’s wholesome makkhan-topped parathas, MTR’s invigorating filter coffee, Karim’s rare firdausi qorma, and Ram Ashraya’s indulgent pineapple sheera are not just about food but about the evolution of community, tradition, and identity.
This book is more than a book, it’s an emotion through India’s rich and diverse food landscape. It stands as a testament to how these legendary eateries have not only survived but thrived. This entertaining chronicle is a must-read for food enthusiasts, history buffs, and anyone interested in the profound impact of food on human connection and community.
The narrative beautifully weaves together memories, interviews, and a plethora of food recommendations, offering a rich read of India’s culinary heritage. but also explores the broader there culture, tradition and more
The writers’ detailed and deep discription into the history and significance of there dishes make for an engaging read. The stories of Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba’s wholesome makkhan-topped parathas, MTR’s invigorating filter coffee, Karim’s rare firdausi qorma, and Ram Ashraya’s indulgent pineapple sheera are not just about food but about the evolution of community, tradition, and identity.
This book is more than a book, it’s an emotion through India’s rich and diverse food landscape. It stands as a testament to how these legendary eateries have not only survived but thrived. This entertaining chronicle is a must-read for food enthusiasts, history buffs, and anyone interested in the profound impact of food on human connection and community.
June 14, 2024
-Read on Eat on-
Review of India’s Most Legendary Restaurants, edited by Ruth D’Souza Prabhu
🖋️📖
A collection of stories that demystifies the lore behind legendary Indian restaurants, this book does come with a statutory warning- don’t sit and read on an empty stomach.
Written by different authors, these stories shade light upon the plight and success of these big names, tracing their success and taking about their failures. Having visited two of these establishments, I feel fortunate to have tasted their food.
In June 2023, when Taste Atlas released its list of 150 legendary restaurants of the world, seven Indian establishments featured on it. These were Paragon in Kozhikode (11), Tunday Kababi in Lucknow (12), Peter Cat in Kolkata (17), Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba in Murthal
(23), Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR) in Bengaluru (39), Karim's in Delhi (87), and Ram Ashraya in Mumbai
(112). These ranks were later refined, pushing the restaurants to upper rungs.
As is the case with good non-fiction, these are really stories and not a dry account for success and failure. There are numerous anecdotes and obstacles that proprietors talk about. One of the most touching was about MTR- The masala dosas at MTR are among the dishes that are its claim to legendary fame. During the Emergency, when Harishchandra Maiya was forced to lower the price of the dosa, he made sure he did not compromise on its quality. Losses mounted every day, and the restaurant displayed these figures on a board outside.
There is also the making and demolishing of Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba that started out as a tiny eatery for truckers and is now a culinary behemoth.
The kababs at Tunday Kababi are its soul, but did you know that close to 160 spices go into their making? Peter Cat was first going to be named Omar Khayyam, and there is no cat to whom the name can be attributed.
A food book would remain incomplete without the writing that makes you salivate. Although I am a vegetarian, these lines made me want to share a plate with the author- ‘We started with the chef's signature shrimp — marinated tiger prawns that are pan sautéed with plenty of flavourful garlic, slit green chillies, and a touch of coconut cream. He watched me closely as I picked up a prawn by the tail and took that first bite, waiting to see what I thought of his first recommendation. The light, crunchy exterior was like perfectly done tempura, but with all the goodness of a moderately spicy masala.
The hot prawns were soft on the inside, not chewy, and when eaten with some of the fried garlic and chillies, made for a perfect starter to the meal.’
Review of India’s Most Legendary Restaurants, edited by Ruth D’Souza Prabhu
🖋️📖
A collection of stories that demystifies the lore behind legendary Indian restaurants, this book does come with a statutory warning- don’t sit and read on an empty stomach.
Written by different authors, these stories shade light upon the plight and success of these big names, tracing their success and taking about their failures. Having visited two of these establishments, I feel fortunate to have tasted their food.
In June 2023, when Taste Atlas released its list of 150 legendary restaurants of the world, seven Indian establishments featured on it. These were Paragon in Kozhikode (11), Tunday Kababi in Lucknow (12), Peter Cat in Kolkata (17), Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba in Murthal
(23), Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR) in Bengaluru (39), Karim's in Delhi (87), and Ram Ashraya in Mumbai
(112). These ranks were later refined, pushing the restaurants to upper rungs.
As is the case with good non-fiction, these are really stories and not a dry account for success and failure. There are numerous anecdotes and obstacles that proprietors talk about. One of the most touching was about MTR- The masala dosas at MTR are among the dishes that are its claim to legendary fame. During the Emergency, when Harishchandra Maiya was forced to lower the price of the dosa, he made sure he did not compromise on its quality. Losses mounted every day, and the restaurant displayed these figures on a board outside.
There is also the making and demolishing of Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba that started out as a tiny eatery for truckers and is now a culinary behemoth.
The kababs at Tunday Kababi are its soul, but did you know that close to 160 spices go into their making? Peter Cat was first going to be named Omar Khayyam, and there is no cat to whom the name can be attributed.
A food book would remain incomplete without the writing that makes you salivate. Although I am a vegetarian, these lines made me want to share a plate with the author- ‘We started with the chef's signature shrimp — marinated tiger prawns that are pan sautéed with plenty of flavourful garlic, slit green chillies, and a touch of coconut cream. He watched me closely as I picked up a prawn by the tail and took that first bite, waiting to see what I thought of his first recommendation. The light, crunchy exterior was like perfectly done tempura, but with all the goodness of a moderately spicy masala.
The hot prawns were soft on the inside, not chewy, and when eaten with some of the fried garlic and chillies, made for a perfect starter to the meal.’
September 12, 2024
India’s Most Legendary Restaurants by Ruth Dsouza Prabhu is a captivating culinary journey exploring some of the most celebrated dining establishments in India. Narrated by various contributors, this well-researched book provides an insider’s look into seven iconic restaurants that have earned a spot on Taste Atlas’s list of 150 legendary restaurants of the 21st century. By blending historical anecdotes with culinary insights, Prabhu and her co-authors have created a richly valuable source for all food enthusiasts.
Food enthusiasts will enjoy exploring the gastronomic adventure provided by “India’s most legendary restaurants.” The rich tapestry of Indian cuisine combined with meticulous research and evocative storytelling provides a soulful experience. The book captures the essence of these legendary eateries that have shaped Indian cuisine and helped carve a delectable and memorable experience for foodies.
This review reflects my honest and voluntary opinion.
______________________________________________
Connect with me on Twitter | Instagram | Blog and let’s talk BOOKS!!
Food enthusiasts will enjoy exploring the gastronomic adventure provided by “India’s most legendary restaurants.” The rich tapestry of Indian cuisine combined with meticulous research and evocative storytelling provides a soulful experience. The book captures the essence of these legendary eateries that have shaped Indian cuisine and helped carve a delectable and memorable experience for foodies.
This review reflects my honest and voluntary opinion.
______________________________________________
Connect with me on Twitter | Instagram | Blog and let’s talk BOOKS!!
January 1, 2025
Short simple reads on the seven Indian restaurants in the Taste Atlas Most Legendary Restaurants list (containing 150 restaurants). They detail the history, current status and runners, culinary distinctions and organisational goals for each establishment. I got recommendations for both new places to visit and new dishes to try at places I've been to before, so I'm happy :)
As there are different writers involved, the writing is noticeably different across chapters, even though the editor (Ruth D'Souza) has managed to have all of them stick to a similar format. In particular, the writing in the Dhaba article (and another one) wasn't to my liking.
A gripe I had was with hyperbole in the Paragon chapter. The writing treats Paragon like the one-above-all in the city, possibly to strengthen the justification for why it is so legendary. Being a Kozhikkottukaaran, I felt that in doing so the significance of other legendary and long-running restaurants (Sagar, Bombay Hotel, Topform, Rahmath, etc.) in the city is unnecessarily diminished by the author.
As there are different writers involved, the writing is noticeably different across chapters, even though the editor (Ruth D'Souza) has managed to have all of them stick to a similar format. In particular, the writing in the Dhaba article (and another one) wasn't to my liking.
A gripe I had was with hyperbole in the Paragon chapter. The writing treats Paragon like the one-above-all in the city, possibly to strengthen the justification for why it is so legendary. Being a Kozhikkottukaaran, I felt that in doing so the significance of other legendary and long-running restaurants (Sagar, Bombay Hotel, Topform, Rahmath, etc.) in the city is unnecessarily diminished by the author.
April 21, 2025
4.5 rating actually.
It’s very well written so much so that I wanted to go to every eatery right away while reading about them.
I felt “ Ramashray” chapter could hv been written a bit differently. That was the only one with which I could nt connect or visualise .. there was no personal touch to the story neither from writer’s point of view now owners’
But definitely recommend reading if you love food.
It’s very well written so much so that I wanted to go to every eatery right away while reading about them.
I felt “ Ramashray” chapter could hv been written a bit differently. That was the only one with which I could nt connect or visualise .. there was no personal touch to the story neither from writer’s point of view now owners’
But definitely recommend reading if you love food.
October 2, 2025
This book explores the seven Indian restaurants that earned a place among the 150 Legendary Restaurants of the World by Taste Atlas in December 2023. The featured restaurants are:
Paragon, Kozhikode (ranked 5)
Tunday Kababi, Lucknow (ranked 6)
Peter Cat, Kolkata (ranked 10)
Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba, Murthal (ranked 16)
Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR), Bengaluru (ranked 32)
Karim’s, Delhi (ranked 84)
Ram Ashraya, Mumbai (ranked 111)
A striking common thread among them is their unwavering conviction to serve good food and their perseverance to stay strong even through adversities.
It was inspiring to read how Saraswati Valsan, mother of the current MD of Paragon Group, carried forward the restaurant’s legacy after her husband’s passing in 1978. Equally heartwarming was learning how Paragon pioneered employee welfare by offering better wages and staff quarters – reportedly the first establishment in the region to do so.
The history of Peter Cat, one of Kolkata’s most iconic restaurants, was fascinating. Particularly amusing was the story of a regular guest who dismissed Iran’s original Chelo Kabab and insisted his Iranian associates try what he believed to be the “real” version – served at Peter Cat.
Equally moving was the resilience of Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba, which survived both a demolition and a fire, with loyal customers standing firmly by their side through these crises.
Overall, this book is a delightful read that not only makes us appreciate the grit and legacy behind these institutions but also leaves us salivating just from reading about the dishes.
Paragon, Kozhikode (ranked 5)
Tunday Kababi, Lucknow (ranked 6)
Peter Cat, Kolkata (ranked 10)
Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba, Murthal (ranked 16)
Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR), Bengaluru (ranked 32)
Karim’s, Delhi (ranked 84)
Ram Ashraya, Mumbai (ranked 111)
A striking common thread among them is their unwavering conviction to serve good food and their perseverance to stay strong even through adversities.
It was inspiring to read how Saraswati Valsan, mother of the current MD of Paragon Group, carried forward the restaurant’s legacy after her husband’s passing in 1978. Equally heartwarming was learning how Paragon pioneered employee welfare by offering better wages and staff quarters – reportedly the first establishment in the region to do so.
The history of Peter Cat, one of Kolkata’s most iconic restaurants, was fascinating. Particularly amusing was the story of a regular guest who dismissed Iran’s original Chelo Kabab and insisted his Iranian associates try what he believed to be the “real” version – served at Peter Cat.
Equally moving was the resilience of Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba, which survived both a demolition and a fire, with loyal customers standing firmly by their side through these crises.
Overall, this book is a delightful read that not only makes us appreciate the grit and legacy behind these institutions but also leaves us salivating just from reading about the dishes.
Displaying 1 - 6 of 6 reviews