Mallory, Irvine and Everest: The Last Step But One

by Robert H. Edwards

'Unique and unconventional, Robert H. Edwards' book provides a new perspective on mountaineering’s greatest riddle. With fresh information, some controversial opinions, and plenty food for thought, it is bound to pour more fuel into the eternal flame that is the mystery of Mallory and Irvine. For this alone I highly recommend reading it!' - Jochen Hemmleb (Mountaineering writer and filmmaker, coinstigator and member of the 1999 expedition that found Mallory’s body, and three more search expeditions to Mount Everest)

'For a quarter of a century I’ve been held captive by the ghosts of Mallory & Irvine and their mysterious disappearance on Mount Everest in 1924. Finally, Bob Edwards has meticulously assembled all of the facts, the clues, and the countless possibilities surrounding their fate in a single, fascinating book.' - Thom Dharma Pollard (Member of the 1999 expedition that found Mallory’s body)

The last climb of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, towards the summit of Mount Everest on 8 June 1924, has been shrouded in mystery for a century. Were they the first humans to stand at the highest point in the world? The discovery of Mallory's body in 1999 did nothing to resolve the mystery. Until now, accounts of their climb have been driven by speculation and preconceived narrative.

In this book, which marks the 100th anniversary of the fateful climb, Dr Robert Edwards brings the fresh and original perspective of a mathematician to the story of Mallory and Irvine.

Dr Edwards has assembled the contemporary accounts of the early British expeditions, written by the climbers and their leaders, and has identified their anomalies and inconsistencies. He has studied the letters of George Mallory, and has held in his hand the diaries of Andrew Irvine. He has viewed, in person, some of the surviving the ice axe found in 1933, and Mallory's boots, recovered in 1999. He has corresponded with modern mountaineers who have climbed Everest. Above all, he has applied mathematics and modern imaging and mapping technology to an analysis of what the 1924 climbers could, and could not, have seen and done.

Genres: Nonfiction, Mountaineering

242 pages, Kindle Edition

Published June 1, 2024

About the author

Bob Edwards studied mathematics at Cambridge University, and earned his MSc and PhD from the London School of Economics. Since 1990 he has owned and managed his own economic research consultancy. He has lived in Canada, Dubai, England, Malaysia, Saudi Arabia, Scotland, Taiwan and Transylvania. He holds a private pilot’s license and has experience in fixed-wing, hang-gliding, microlights and parachuting. He survived spin training, engine failure, forced landing, a hang-glider crash, and a tangle with the shroud lines. Now that he is older but not wiser, he does more dangerous things, such as writing books on great modern mysteries, and acting for film and television under the screen name Robert Isaac Harker.

Reviews

[Gayle (OutsmartYourShelf) · Rating 4 out of 5]

George Mallory & Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine climbed into the history books when they set off on their attempt to summit Everest on 8 June 1924 - an attempt that was to claim both their lives. It was 75 years before Mallory's remains were found, Irvine has not been located as yet, & there is no first-hand record of what transpired that day. In this book, Dr Robert Edwards looks at contemporary evidence, accounts of the climbers who followed in their footsteps over the years, & technical information using the latest modern technology to try & piece together what may have happened. Did Mallory & Irvine realise their aim of being the first people to summit Everest?

This year marks 100 years since Mallory & Irvine disappeared on Everest. Having heard of them but not really looked into what transpired, this book was an obvious choice for me. I found it an informative & engaging read as, although at times it did become almost a little too technical for a 'layperson', it was always fascinating reading. The author has obviously put in a great deal of time & effort on their research & it shows. Alas there is no big reveal at the end. Real life is not an episode of CSI & the evidence found cannot provide anything other than conjecture. There does seem to be evidence though that Mallory & Irvine had become separated at the end - had Irvine perhaps been badly injured & Mallory died whilst hurrying to fetch assistance? Unless Irvine's body is found, it is unlikely we will ever know.

My thanks to NetGalley & publishers, Pen & Sword, for the opportunity to read an ARC.

[julianne · Rating 5 out of 5]

I have a lot of mountaineering books, and this has to rate as one of the best ones.

Meticulously researched and beautifully written Mr Edwards has gone to extreme lengths to detail what he thinks mathematically happened to Irvine and Mallory.

This is absolutely fascinating and will have pride of place on my bookshelf.

Thanks to Netgalley and the publisher for a copy in exchange for an honest, unbiased review.

[Sophie · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’ve grown up fascinated by mountains (this, perhaps, is inherited from my father, who happens to be a retired climber) and have held an obsession with Everest for as long as I can remember. Something I am not alone in.

Everest has held a long-standing fascination with people since its discovery in the late 1800s as the world’s tallest mountain, it's summit the highest place on earth. Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay have been accredited with being the first climbers to reach its top in 1953 on the ninth British expedition to take place. But one question remains: were they really the first?

Several decades earlier, another British expedition took place in 1924, in which George Mallory and Andrew Irvine attempted to be the first people on earth to summit the great Mount Everest. As anyone with any mountaineering experience or knowledge knows, tragedy befell them both. But for exactly 100 years, the same questions remain. Did they make it to the top? Did they die on their ascent or descent? What clues remain on the mountain? Edwards seeks not to answer this categorically (for no one as of yet truly can) but to eliminate certain lines of inquiry and expose what was probable and improbable, therefore divulging what was likely to have happened.

Edwards’ research is extensive and meticulous, and it was fascinating to see so many details of that expedition revealed, from letters and photographs, to sketches and maps. The facts of the 1924 expedition are so vast that any text on the subject could easily become a tangled web, but Edwards’ narration is measured, factual, and straightforward. His lack of bias towards the events that might or might not have taken place is also refreshing. It is a great addition to companion pieces about Mallory and the great mystery of 1924.

All in all, this was a deeply fascinating read. For those interested in Everest, particularly the early expeditions, this book is a must read, for it only deals in facts, and they really do speak for themselves.

[Ink · Rating 5 out of 5]

Mallory, Irvine and Everest The Last Step But One by Robert H Edwards

The 1924 British Mount Everest expedition ws intended to be the first expedition to achieve the goal of reaching the summit of mount Everest (8849 Metres) after previous attempts had failed. George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, were believed to have reached the summit, but disappeared, so speculation was rife. In 1999, an expedition discovered the body of Mallory at 8156 metres but this did not definitively determine if the summit had been reached by the pair. There was still no sign of Irvine

In this brilliantly researched and eloquently written book, Dr Edwards has compiled endless accounts of expeditions to the Summit of Everest, along with artifcats and the diary of Andrew Irvine. Using these along with mapping technology, imaging and mathematic calculations, can he come up with a definitive answer as to if the pair reached the summit?

A fantastically fascinating journey into the exploration of history and the blending of modern techniques to uncover the mysteries of the past. Very well written and utterly glorious

Thank you to Netgalley, Pen & Sword | Pen & Sword History and the author Robert H Edwards for this fascinating ARC. My review is left voluntarily an all opinions are my own

[Francis Tapon · Rating 5 out of 5]

Wow. If you want the most comprehensive study of George Mallory's 3rd and final climb up Mt. Everest, read this book!

The book Mallory, Irvine, and Everest: The Last Step But One by Dr. Robert Edwards explores the mystery surrounding George Mallory and Andrew Irvine's 1924 attempt to summit Mount Everest.

The book offers a fresh and original perspective on this historical event, as the author, a mathematician, has applied modern analytical techniques to the available evidence. Dr. Edwards has thoroughly researched the contemporary accounts, letters, and artifacts related to the climb and has identified inconsistencies in previous narratives.

The book's release coincides with the 100th anniversary of Mallory and Irvine's fateful expedition, offering unique insights. Mountaineering experts Jochen Hemmleb and Thom Dharma Pollard have praised its potential to shed new light on whether Mallory and Irvine were the first to conquer Everest. This unique perspective is sure to enlighten the audience.

Mallory picked a strong, young, inexperienced climbing partner, Andrew Irvine, to push to the summit.

SPOILER #1: Nobody knows if either one of them made it. This book, however, does not offer a definitive answer either.

However, this book will enthrall you if you want to learn what the most meticulous researcher has discovered.

For example, Edwards devotes pages to examining every aspect of the mysterious ice ax found high on the mountain.

SPOILER #2: The ax is almost certainly Irvine's or Malory's, but we don't know which one. The author concludes that it was placed there and didn't tumble or drop there accidentally.

What I love about this book is that Edwards lets the evidence speak.
Although he speculates, he admits that when he's speculating, he does so so that you can reach your own conclusion.

After reading this excellent book and interviewing the author, here's my best guess as to what happened:

Mallory probably reached the summit late in the afternoon, forcing him to descend at night. When investigators found his corpse in 1999, Mallory's sunglasses were in his pocket, indicating he descended at night. He ran out of oxygen, which sapped his strength and heat just when he needed to stay warm at nightfall. He had few clothes compared to modern climbers. Without oxygen, he got disoriented and wobbly. His judgment worsened. One slip was all it took to break his leg and slide down to his resting spot, where he was found decades later.

This hypothesis is my speculation, not the book's.

Get the book, and judge for yourself.

WARNING: This book may bore people with only a passing interest in this topic.

VERDICT: 5 out of 5 stars!

VIDEO INTERVIEW WITH THE AUTHOR with 50k views:

[Shreedevi Gurumurty · Rating 5 out of 5]

The 1924 British Mount Everest expedition was—after the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition—the 2nd expedition with the goal of achieving the first ascent of Mount Everest.After two summit attempts in which Edward Norton set a world altitude record of 8,572.8 metres (28,126 ft): the mountaineers George Mallory and Andrew "Sandy" Irvine disappeared on the third attempt. Their disappearance has given rise to the long-standing speculation of whether or not the pair might – under a narrow set of assumptions – have reached the summit.Mallory's body was found in 1999 at 8,156 metres (26,760 ft), but the resulting clues did not provide any conclusive evidence as to whether the summit was reached.At the beginning of the 20th century, the British participated in contests to be the first to reach the North and South Poles, without success. A desire to restore national prestige led to scrutiny and discussion of the possibility of "conquering the third pole" – making the first ascent of the highest mountain on Earth.The southern side of the mountain, which is accessible from Nepal and today is the standard climbing route, was unavailable as Nepal was a "forbidden country" for westerners. Going to the north side was politically complex: it required the persistent intervention of the British-Indian government with the Dalai Lama regime in Tibet to allow British expedition activities.Like the two earlier expeditions, the 1924 expedition was also planned,financed and organised by the membership of the Royal Geographical Society, the Alpine Club, and a major contribution by Captain John Noel, who thereby purchased all photographic rights.The Mount Everest Committee which they formed used military strategies, with some military personnel and porters.Like the 1922 expedition, the 1924 expedition also brought bottled oxygen to the mountain. There were issues on the final sighting of Mallory and Irvine alive by Odell,and Irvine was not an experienced climber,and the territory was completely unknown then,and the vagaries of the weather.Despite the discovery of Mallory's body in 1999, how and where exactly the two climbers lost their lives is still unknown.

[Christopher Murray · Rating 2 out of 5]

Far from dealing with just the ‘facts’ this account is full of the neoMarxist counter culture that I experienced at the same university as the authour debunking British heroes. So I’m not surprised . The real heroes of the 1924 expedition we are told are the three ‘tiger ‘ Sherpas . Really ? Shouldn’t they have gone on to ‘’conquer ‘’ [ nasty colonial word ] Everest - but they weren’t interested we are told. On page 107 it is implied that no less than Norton , Somerville , Bruce and Mallory are liars in favour of an imagined Sherpa version events in their refusal to carry on. And such are the ‘ facts’ quote , ‘ we can image what the Sherpas are thinking ‘ and then a Sherpa quote of pure imagination. The author reads in to the minds of twenties colonial England the values of the present. And why the constant equating Tom Wolf Yaeger The Right Stuff with 24 Everest ? Oh , I get it that’s debunking too. And so it goes on , the English [ I’m not ] are the villains exploiting the natives and not the eight English [ surely Geoffrey Bruce is Scots , DFC , MC recorded 27k feet in 1922 expedition , front line service in Afghanistan , WW1 and WW2 .] No we know who the heroes are with their inadequate clothes and equipment and the hardship they faced and all gave credit to their porters. The propaganda spoils the book for me.

[Steve Cripwell · Rating 5 out of 5]

The last climb of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, towards the summit of Mount Everest on 8 June 1924, has been shrouded in mystery for a century. Were they the first humans to stand at the highest point in the world? The discovery of Mallory's body in 1999 did nothing to resolve the mystery. Until now, accounts of their climb have been driven by speculation and preconceived narrative.

I’ve always been fascinated by this story. Something of the old pioneer/explorer in it really appeals so I was delighted to read this excellent book. It’s well researched and presented. It describes in detail just how Mallory prepared for the climbing of the highest mountain in the world. It also gives an insight on the man himself but, sadly it cannot answer the inevitable question. Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit or not? It’s a great read however.

[Jennifer · Rating 3 out of 5]

I enjoyed this! I’ve read a fair bit about the Mallory expeditions so there wasn’t a ton of new data but there was some, particularly with additional details from the last few years. I found how he laid out all the expeditions and the information to be very different and it really helps call out what “is known” and what “is speculation”. I also loved the artist rendering of so many of the photographs and images. I’ve not seen that used before.

If you are new to a fascination about Mallory/Irvine and Everest or just looking for a new overview, this is the rare book that could cover both!

[Gail · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm drawn to books about those who conquer mountains. Here is an ambitious attempt to solve the mystery of the last climb on Mount Everest of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, on 8 June 1924. Mallory’s body was found in 1999 but it didn’t reveal whether or not he and Irvine made it to the summit.
On the 100th anniversary of the climb Dr Edwards, a mathematician, combines meticulous research with a scholarly approach to provide his assessment.

[Kristin · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fascinating, in-depth exploration of what is known and what is unknown about Mallory and Irvine's final days on Mount Everest. A bit technical at time for the casual reader, still an engaging read overall.

[Olga Mallon · Rating 5 out of 5]

Was mesmerized by the drive of the explorer George Mallory to summit Mount Everest.