Mountaintops have long been seen as sacred places, home to gods and dreams. In one climbing year Peter Boardman visited three very different sacred mountains. He began on the South Face of the Carstensz Pyramid in New Guinea. This is the highest point between the Andes and the Himalaya , and one of the most inaccessible, rising above thick jungle inhabited by warring Stone Age tribes. During the spring Boardman made a four-man, oxygen-free attempt on the world's third highest peak, Kangchenjunga . Hurricane-force winds beat back their first two bids on the unclimbed North Ridge, but they eventually stood within feet of the summit – leaving the final few yards untrodden in deference to the inhabiting deity. In October, he climbed the mountain most sacred to the the twin-summited Gauri Sankar . Renowned for its technical difficulty and spectacular profile, it is aptly dubbed the Eiger of the Himalaya and Boardman's first ascent took a gruelling twenty-three days. Three sacred mountains, three very different expeditions, all superbly captured by Boardman in Sacred Summits , his second book, first published shortly after his death in 1982. Combining the excitement of extreme climbing with acute observation of life in the mountains, this is an amusing, dramatic, poignant and thought-provoking book. Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker died on Everest in 1982, whilst attempting a new and unclimbed line. Both men were superb mountaineers and talented writers. Their literary legacy lives on through the Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature , established by family and friends in 1983 and presented annually to the author or co-authors of an original work which has made an outstanding contribution to mountain literature.
Boardman was a British climber and mountaineer with an impressive list of successful climbs in the Alps, the Himalaya and elsewhere. These included a 1975 ascent of Everest via the South West face, and a 1976 ascent of the West Wall of Changabang. His account of the Changabang climb, The Shining Mountain, is widely regarded as one of the classics of the mountaineering genre.
Following his death on the North East ridge of Everest in 1982, together with his long term climbing partner and fellow author Joe Tasker, Boardman's contribution to climbing literature was acknowledged with the instigation of the Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature.
Excellent recounting of the author's trips to far-flung destinations to climb the mountains in the title. I particularly enjoyed the 'getting there' aspects of the expeditions. It was a proper adventure back in the 70s just to get to the places where these mountains are, never mind climb them. Hats off!
From start to finish I found Peter Boardman’s account of these three challenging climbing expeditions, all undertaken during 1979, both riveting and awe-inspiring. I think that for most climbers, tackling just one of these summits in a year would be enough, but the fact that he tackled all three speaks of both his passion for the mountains and his determination to push himself to his limits and to become the best climber he possibly could be, whatever that took. I really enjoyed his well-written, often humorous accounts of the various technical, personal and ethical challenges he and his fellow climbers faced on each expedition and the powerful, but sometimes transitory, nature of the relationships which are forged. I also appreciated his highly evocative descriptions, at times so vid that they enabled me to share some of the adrenaline-fuelled excitement and danger he and his fellow climbers experienced … albeit from the safety of my comfortable armchair! However, what I most enjoyed were the non-technical, more philosophical aspects of his memoir. These included honest and insightful reflections on the stress and anxiety a climber’s ‘selfish’, risk-taking indulgence places on family members and friends, the fluctuating nature of interactions with fellow climbers during any expedition and how, bearing in mind their need to maintain trust in one another, any conflicts which arise need to be quickly resolved. The fact that he included the sometimes differing opinions of other members of the expeditions added an important extra dimension to his accounts of the climbs, to the ethical dilemmas they frequently faced and how they resolved them. I appreciated his thoughtful and sensitive reflections on needing to be respectful of local people, their culture and traditions and whether, in fact, climbers should even attempt to ‘conquer’ mountains which are sacred to the indigenous population. What made reading this book a particularly poignant experience was the knowledge that Peter Boardman had fewer than three years left to live and to continue climbing because, during an attempt to conquer Everest’s North East Ridge he died in May 1982. This fascinating memoir was published later that year, a fitting testament to a talented climber whose passion led to his untimely death.
I loved Boardman's previous book on his mountaineering life and exploits, The Shining Mountain. He gives a very detailed and personal view of his climbs, without holding back his own faults or small conflicts he encounters with climbing partners. I was expecting to be less enthralled with this book, because his expedition to New Guinea seemed so different from an alpine or Himalayan climbs.
But I was drawn in and held captive by his writing just like with his other book, and for the same reasons. His writing style was again honest and personal, and he clearly researched the subject areas of his climbs. This is not just a mountaineering book, but excellent travel writing. Climbing was exhilarating at its best for Boardman, but he didn't use the language of conquest as much as others do when they write about their efforts. He knew that local people revere the mountains almost as gods and goddesses, and he tried to respect that in his thoughts and in keeping his expeditions as small as possible. You feel like you know him after you finish reading his books, though there were a few places where I felt he held back something personal. Perfectly natural, and he did less of it than others for sure.
It is perhaps ironic that near the end of the book, Boardman expresses that he feels somewhat fulfilled where the climbing of Himalayan mountains are concerned and he sounds like he might settle for less extreme efforts in the future. Many of the finest mountaineers have perished after telling their partners that the next serious climb would be their last of that sort. So this would not be Boardman's last climb. The lure was too great, and after an invitation from Chris Bonington, Boardman had a date with his ultimate destiny on Mt. Everest. Mountaineering literature is not the same without his writing, but we can console ourselves with the knowledge that the Boardman-Tasker award that was established for mountaineering writing at least encourages and supports such writing efforts. One person found this helpful
The eloquent writing and heartfelt description of emotions make this an outstanding book. A very refreshing approach to mountain climbing. The love and respect for nature is as important as the quest for the top. It is the journey that counts. That is what was important for Peter Boardman. New routes. Exciting destinations. With all that, he is an amazing writer. Very engaging. Personal feelings are important. He does not shy away from the less aimable group dynamics. These high altitude, highly driven people are very goal oriented: reach the summit. Not at all costs, but it comes close.
In this book he describes three expeditions to three amazing mountains.
1. Snow Mountains of New Guinea. (Carstensz Pyramid) 30th November 1978 - 28 Januari 1979
It's more an antropological treatise about life in New Guinea than a mountaineering story. Only one quarter of this chapter is about actual climbing. (16 out of 67 pages). The first part is about the bureaucratic troubles they had to overcome to get a permit to climb. After that the long trek to base camp is described. I liked it. It gave a wonderful insight of the place in 1978. He has compassion for the local population and sees with regret the influence, the so called "civilization", has on the landscape and the natives. The actual climb of the Carstenz Pyramid was a disappointment. In only 4 pages we were on the top and back.
2. Kangchenjunga ("The five treasures of the high snow") 14th March - 2nd June 1979.
The third highest mountain in the world. 28,169ft. A symbolic name that speaks to the soul rather than referred, as in some countries, to historical events or to the memories of "famous" people (for instance: Dhaulagiri: Mountain of Storms or Annapurna: "Giver of Life"). I totally agree with that, all those mountains here in Colorada named after dubious people!)
A long walk from the plains to basecamp; 18 days. From far away the mountain is visible. That's how it can be. That's how it should be. Instead of flying. During the approach Boardman had many a philosophical thought. He peppers this journey with historical, cultural and religious observations. Descriptions of the landscape and villages make the hike to basecamp like an exploration journey into the life of the people there. In his eloquent prose it's fascinating to read. Interesting also are the group dynamics. Conversations could not become too serious because they knew they would soon have to be totally interdependant once on the mountain. From his diary: "I think it would be a sort of tense anarchy if all of us allowed our feelings to dominate what we say." They marvel about the beauty of the high mountains. Seen from afar. The majestic bulk of Kangchenjunga, of a scale that cannot be grasped.
They reached Pangpema, basecamp on April 4th. It is at 17,000ft, 11,000ft below the summit. Now we get into the actual climbing. A map is provided on which I could follow exactly where they were. Accompanied by pictures which made it even more engaging and imaginable.
What follows is a painstakingly climb. Establishing camps on the way. The most strenous part being in the beginning. A steep 3000 foot wall. After going back and forth. Taking rest days. Overcoming storms, sickness, injuries and fatigue, they finally go for the summit on May 10th from base camp. On May 16 at 5.15pm they reach the summit! p.158; about the sacredness of this summit and the emotions that come with reaching it: "We had been on summits before. We had dreamed of them, for their lure endures for ever and there is no escape, for summits match dreams. But this one we did not touch. The top was ten feet away." As usual when reading books like these, the final parts before the summit always fills me with elation. They did it. An incredible long struggle is over. And they are well aware that it's not over. They still have to go down. With this also in mind: ""In the harsh world of high altitude, a climber must obey his inner conscious voice, for the simple instructions of that voice are his only defence." Because their bodies responded feebly to the signals of their mind. All due to exhaustion, not enough food, dehydration, cold. Because of their will to reach the top, (summit fever, Yes, I would say do) they pushed themselves to and probably, over their limit. Such is the attitude of the driven climber. Boardman recounts that he felt ecstatic. Realizing that it seems silly that the summit was so important. But still, there you have it.
3. Gauri Sankar The Goddess and her Consort) 19th September - 9th November, 1979
Gauri, the South Summit. Considered the most holy mountain of the Sherpas. (Also known as Tseringma: "Auspicious Mistress of Long-life") The mountain has two summits, the northern (higher) summit being called Shankar (7,134m, 23,406ft) a manifestation of Shiva and the southern summit being called Gauri (7,010m, 22,999ft) a manifestation of Shiva's consort). It rises dramatically above the Bhote Kosi only 5 km away, and is protected on all sides by steep faces and long, corniced ridges. Also called the Eiger of the Himalaya.
Boardman commenting on this climb: "A lightweight expedition, we hoped, would leave little mark on the mountain and also provide the adventurous uncertainty that is one of the appeals of mountaineering."
Another sacred mountain to climb!
From Kathmandu to Advance Camp, at the beginning of the ridge, it was sort of like the trek to basecamp of Kangchenjunga. That I liked a lot. This was just ok.
A four kilometer long ridge from the start of the difficulties. The provided map and accompanying pictures give a very good impression of the daunting path to follow. At times they feel depressed: p.218: "My mind choked at the sight of the endless sweep of the ridge [...] this constant danger of cornices and poor belays." Setting up camps, with sheer drops on all sides. On pictures the whole ridge looks like a knife edge. They have to content with treacherous cornices all the way. At one time Boardman remarks, when belaying, p.239: "astride the ridge with my left foot in the sunshine of Tibet, and my right foot in a Nepalese snowstorm." The pictures in the book gave a good insight how daunting it was. Sheer craziness! What people do for the summit is inconceivable. It makes for great reading though.
This had a different feel than the Kangchenjunga climb. New companions. New dynamics. There is more contentiousness between the team members. Fascinating to read how one copes on these expeditions with each other's idiosyncrasies. And yet they have to rely on one another to survive. As John puts it: "it's been an erratic display of pride, anger, competitiveness and ambition.." Upon which Boardman remarks that John was their sounding board, putting the most delicate of problems into the most tolerant words...
At last on November 8th, at 9:00pm. under a rising moon, they reach the final plateau just below the summit. It's dark, they are tired and cold and they decide to bivouac there. Then the next morning, on November 9th, at 9:00am they reached the South Summit of Gauri Shankar! The safety of the gentle summit was a relief. They could stand without fear. Then they had to descent without accident. Exhausted, dehydrated, running on empty, it took them 2 days to reach base camp. It had taken them 21 days to reach the summit from the Advanced Camp at the beginning of the ridge.
Out of the three summit bids, this one seemed, to me, the most epic. The sheer drops during the whole ridge climb gave it an extra dimension. A fascinating read!
written: 1979. Peter Boardman: 1950 - 1982
== Both Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker disappeared in 1982 on the then unclimbed North-East Ridge of Everest at 27,000ft. They were last seen on May 17, during their summit attempt, at 9:00pm at the foot of the Second Pinnacle at 8,250m having been climbing for 14 hours.
Sacred Summits covers three very different Boardman expeditions, to Carstenz Pyramid in New Guinea, Kangchenjunga and Gauri Sankar. The book includes very well written accounts of the trips, but more interestingly for me a very frank discourse on the dilemmas facing climbers. This covers the selfish motives they have, and the toll on friends and especially family. The author also considers whether climbers should even go to the summits of such very scared mountains. In fact, on Kangchenjunga they leave 'the final few yards untrodden in deference to the inhabiting deity'. Boardman is good at illuminating the shifting inter-personal relationships on such expeditions, and also makes good use of the diaries and thoughts of other expedition members to counter-point his own views. He explains his ethical stance on climbing, but also notes that desperate situations call these ethics into focus. He records to surmount one obstace they had to, 'stand on five rocks piled on each other. This would be seen as cheating on British rock, but I was too tired for ethics'. I have no idea if the conversations he details are real or made-up, but they do nicely draw you in to the atmosphere of the occasion. There were two disappointments for me with this edition of the book. There were a significant number of typos, particularly noticeable in the foreword. Secondly, the photos included were poorly reproduced at the end of the book. This may well be because it is a reprint of book first published many years ago (Boardman died in 1982). Overall though a great read, which is much more than a description of three climbing trips. I was particularly touched by Boardman's moving account of his father's death shortly after he came home from Gauri Sankar.
Although it doesn't have the page-turning suspense of 'Into Thin Air', this book was enjoyable thanks to its focus on other aspects of mountaineering. One was the different cultures that are found in and around mountains, from Europe to New Guinea via Nepal and Tibet. It is also a very frank account of the many dilemmas facing climbers: Is mountaineering intrinsically selfish? Should you climb mountains that are considered sacred? Is it fair on family and friends to go away and take such risks?
Brilliant, humble and understated exploration of the characters involved in high altitude mountaineering and the relationships they have with the mountains, one another and the people that they leave behind. Three different mountains are visited in the course of the book and whilst the details of these ascents are engaging, varied and interesting it is the relationships that are forged and left behind when pursuing passions that stand out in this book.
Extreme mountaineering stories are not for everyone, but I love them. This one was bit slow but so is climbing. These guys die or disappear up there quite frequently. If I recall correctly Peter Boardman and his good friend and climbing partner Joe Tasker were last seen rounding some corner on Mount Everest. These adventure are as real as they get and Sacred Summits is yet another tale of an impossible journey being accomplished.
This isn't just a book about climbing; it's a raw and honest look at the mindset of a mountaineer. Boardman's writing is both beautiful and deeply moving, capturing the fear, triumphs, and profound sense of loss that comes with a life lived on the edge. A must-read for anyone who loves the mountains or is curious about what drives people to them. It's a powerful and unforgettable book.
I found this a little more dull than The Shining Mountain. And Boardman rather tedious and macho. It's a shame he didn't get to write any more books as he may have mellowed if he had grown a bit older.
So incredibly dense that I couldn't even finish it. Would probably be more interesting if I was more immersed in the mountaineering world but alas I am not.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.