What were the earliest cakes like? How did cakes evolve, and how did cake-baking (and cake-eating) traditions diverge across countries? When and how did Christmas cake come into being (this one surprised me, as did wedding cake)? How does cake appear in literature? Where and how did cupcakes become so popular? And more.
I enjoyed this book; it offered some interesting insights into cake, without going so deep that it became tedious or repetitive. Humble manages to be informative as well as readable, and embellishes the text with some excellent (and mouthwatering) excerpts from literature, all the way from Marcel Proust’s madeleines to the Cranford ladies’ cake, to (admittedly not mouthwatering) Miss Havisham’s bride cake. There are plenty of reproductions, of old paintings, advertisements, photographs, postcards, etc, all depicting cake in some form or the other.
True, this book isn’t strictly ‘global’: there are no mentions of cakes from (say) India (I can think of several possibly British-origin but now indigenous cakes like mawa cake and Allahabadi cake). Or even from elsewhere in Asia and Africa: there is the citrusy meskouta from Morocco, the Accra banana peanut cake from Ghana, the potato and cashewnut bolo polana from Madagascar, the Japanese kasutera… all made in the conventional ‘cake’ style of Europe, but now indigenized enough to be distinctly non-European. But none appear in Cake: A Global History.
However, Humble does mention Japanese ‘Western cakes’ as well as Chinese moon cakes, so I suppose she isn’t being completely Euro-centric, either. And yes: the recipes at the end of the book include one for a classic Latin American tres leches cake. So, I partly forgive that omission of most cakes non-European/non-American.
By the way, several of those recipes are very appealing. One—boiled fruit cake—I’m definitely going to try.