In «Verdi colline d’Africa», Hemingway racconta di avere centrato con un colpo di fucile, durante un safari in Kenya, una iena, e di aver sentito poi la sua guida apostrofarla rabbiosamente «ermafrodita, divoratrice di morti ... faccia furba da cane bastardo sempre voltata indietro». Tratti che riassumono un pregiudizio diffuso ovunque le iene si siano ovunque, tranne che a Harar, «metropoli» etiope d’altura dove non è raro vederle aggirarsi quiete per le strade, mentre gli abitanti offrono loro cibo per farne attrazioni turistiche. A lungo Marcus Baynes-Rock ha frequentato le iene di Harar, fino a stabilire con loro una progressiva, stupefacente intimità; e nel dar conto delle innovative acquisizioni delle sue ricerche sul campo getta nuova luce anche sull’ancestrale avversione che gli uomini manifestano nei loro confronti. Baynes-Rock risale infatti a quel lungo e remoto periodo dimenticato, in cui i nostri antenati furono per le iene prima oggetto di predazione e poi avversari nello «scavenging»: l’atto di mangiare i resti di un animale ucciso «da altri» – termine oggi eufemizzato e ridotto a descrivere la cosiddetta «ripulitura» delle carcasse. Una rimozione che cancella una parte immensa della storia evolutiva, quella che ha dato inizio alla trasformazione dell’uomo in predatore e sovrano della catena alimentare. Da questa illuminante e schiacciante premessa, Baynes-Rock sa trarre una memorabile lezione etologica e, rovesciando ogni prospettiva, riesce a renderci quasi familiare un animale ostile e alieno. Così, come scrive Elizabeth Marshall Thomas nella sua ammirata prefazione, leggendo queste pagine a ognuno di noi verrà da «Se conoscessimo tutti gli animali come lui conosce le iene, salveremmo il mondo».
L’atavico antagonismo tra uomo e iena si dissolve, ad Harar, in una convivenza che sfida il modello occidentale di dominio o domesticazione. Qui, le iene sono accolte come parte di un sistema di credenze spirituali, a conferma di come ogni legame tra umano e animale sia, in fondo, sempre culturale
Marcus Baynes-Rock doesn't come across as a scientist, though he apparently is one (an anthropologist). He's traveled to Harar, an ancient Muslim city in eastern Ethiopia, to study the relationships between the city's hyenas and the people who feed them, ritually, every night at dusk. He cheerfully admits his missteps and cluelessness and seems to spend as much time chewing khat with the addicts as he does observing hyenas, and eventually I wearied of his shambolic bumblings. As interested as he is in hyenas, it's clear that all he really wants to do is feel a connection with them, much as I crave a connection with my dog. For me it brings up questions of power and appropriateness since these are wild animals that regularly attack and kill people in the Harar area (and all over Africa). The lack of breathtaking climax at the end is a little sweet and pretty sad, but I enjoyed the trip alongside Marcus Baynes-Rock nonetheless.
This documents one of the most fascinating human/animal relationships I’ve heard of. It shows just how flexible both we and animals are. The unique culture of Harar has developed an amazing variety of positive associations toward hyenas, to the point that people make excuses for them in the rare instances where they attack. On the hyena’s side, you learn just how hard they’ve had to work to overcome their deep fear of humans. Who knew it could be so complicated to convince them to accept free offerings of food!
For anyone interesting in bringing the book to life, there are many tourist’s videos of the feedings posted on YouTube. As artificial as the situation is, it’s fun to watch the hyena’s body language, with their cautious attitudes and quick movements to minimize their proximity to humans.
I read this several years ago, but it remains prominent in my mind as a fascinating application of anthropological inquiry to investigate the relationship between humans and hyenas in Harar by considering the hyenas as active agents with their own society, rather than passive objects acted on by humans.
Like a (well-written) diary of the author's year in Harar, Ethiopa, with the anthropological notes, people he meets, hyenas he follows and even befriends.
This book written by an Australian biologist describes his year in Harar, Ethiopia studying hyenas and their interactions with humans from the perspective of an anthropologist. The term used to describe this is interspecies relationships. In most parts of Africa, hyenas are feared and reviled as portrayed in “The Lion King”. In Harar and some other parts of Ethiopia hyenas and humans live a mutually advantageous life. While the book focuses on this , it also provides information on the animal’s biology, the human culture in Harar, the largest Muslim city in Ethiopia and life as a graduate student. I found the book very interesting as I am interested in all of these areas but readers should be aware that Harar is not typical of all of Ethiopia. When I was last in Addis Ababa for a meeting at the Horn of Africa Conference Center on the outskirts of the city, the staff refused to work at night because they were afraid of the hyenas. This probably reflects changes in urban culture from that of Harar where there is a ceremony feeding porridge to the hyenas to ensure a good year. The book is not too long and a relatively easy read.
Very good, well written, and thoughtful multispecies ethnography . Baynes-Rock is a very good writer and allows the account to be engrossing and emotive.