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Slow Trains to Istanbul: ...And Back: A 4,570-Mile Adventure on 55 Rides
From London via Paris, Naples, Nuremberg, the Swiss Alps, Budapest, Athens and into the furthest corners of Eastern Europe across Romania and Bulgaria, join Tom Chesshyre on his fascinating journey to Istanbul and back
Ever dreamt of dropping everything and adventuring cross-country to the edge of Asia? That's just what rail enthusiast Tom Chesshyre did, hitting the tracks for a 4,570-mile adventure on 55 rides, shadowing the old Orient Express route.
Interrailing was once the realm of young backpackers setting off to "find themselves" - and for many, it still is. But it's also a joyful and eco-friendly twenty-first century adventure that's open to us all, no matter our age or agenda. Dodging striking train drivers in Germany, getting stuck by the Bulgarian-Greek border, and negotiating tricky passport officials in Turkey is all part of the fun in this illuminating and meandering journey around Europe.
Europe by rail awaits. The freedom of the lines awaits. Why not hop on board?
Ever dreamt of dropping everything and adventuring cross-country to the edge of Asia? That's just what rail enthusiast Tom Chesshyre did, hitting the tracks for a 4,570-mile adventure on 55 rides, shadowing the old Orient Express route.
Interrailing was once the realm of young backpackers setting off to "find themselves" - and for many, it still is. But it's also a joyful and eco-friendly twenty-first century adventure that's open to us all, no matter our age or agenda. Dodging striking train drivers in Germany, getting stuck by the Bulgarian-Greek border, and negotiating tricky passport officials in Turkey is all part of the fun in this illuminating and meandering journey around Europe.
Europe by rail awaits. The freedom of the lines awaits. Why not hop on board?
- GenresTravelNonfiction
352 pages, Hardcover
Published June 13, 2024
21 people are currently reading
269 people want to read
About the author
Tom Chesshyre
19 books36 followersTom Chesshyre has been writing travel stories for UK national newspapers for over15 years. After reading politics at Bristol University and completing a journalism diploma from City University, he had stints at the Cambridge Evening News, Sporting Life and Sky Sports. During this period he won the Independent's young sports writer of the year competition and was runner-up in the Financial Times young business writer awards. His first travel piece was about England's cricket fans in Barbados for the Daily Telegraph. He freelanced for the Daily and Sunday Telegraphs, wrote a column for Conde Nast Traveller, and contributed to the Express, the Guardian, and the Independent, before working on the travel desk of the Times. He has assisted with the research on two books - W. G. by Robert Low, a biography of W. G. Grace, and Carlos: Portrait of a Terrorist by Colin Smith, a biography of "Carlos the Jackal". He has written magazine pieces for Wanderlust, Geographical and Business Traveller - and contributes book reviews to the TLS. His travel writing has taken him to more than 75 countries. He lives in south-west London and was born in 1971.
His first book, How Low Can You Go: Round Europe for 1p Each Way (Plus Tax) was published by Hodder in 2007. To Hull and Back: On Holiday in Unsung Britain was published by Summersdale in July 2010, followed by Tales from the Fast Trains: Europe at 186 mph is published in July 2011.
His first book, How Low Can You Go: Round Europe for 1p Each Way (Plus Tax) was published by Hodder in 2007. To Hull and Back: On Holiday in Unsung Britain was published by Summersdale in July 2010, followed by Tales from the Fast Trains: Europe at 186 mph is published in July 2011.
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Displaying 1 - 13 of 13 reviews
November 21, 2025
Like all good plans, the idea for this trip formed over a few beers one evening. With his friends, Danny, they had been putting the world to rights before Danny finally got around to asking him the question that had been distracting him for a while. Had he heard of Interrail? Quite a daft question to ask a travel writer.
Of course, he had.
The reason for the question was that Danny had seen that they were having a half-price sale to celebrate 50 years of the service. Danny had the idea that they should spend an entire month travelling around Europe. He was so enthused by the idea he had even broached the subject with his wife and been given a provisional pass.
They bought tickets there and then on the bench in Soho Square, before heading to Stanford’s to get a couple of maps. It didn’t take them long to concoct a plan, and they both knew the destination: Istanbul.
Sadly, a half-price Interrail ticket wouldn’t let them go on the horrendously priced Orient Express. Instead of spending vast amounts of time sorting their itinerary out, they decided to let serendipity reign and follow their instincts and the tracks. This, they hoped, would add a level of jeopardy to the trip and help them see a completely different range of places and people.
They arrived at St Pancras for the Eurostar in good time. There was a slight concern that their first destination, Paris, had been on fire because of riots. They were both slightly apprehensive as they disembarked the train in the station.
However, all seemed well as they alighted in Paris and they headed to their hotel, which just so happened to be in the same area that George Orwell stayed in many years before. They had a night out on and returned late to the hotel. Strasbourg was tomorrow’s destination and they had a train to catch early afternoon.
This was the beginning of the long winding route that would take them across Europe on their way to Istanbul. They pass through Germany, Austria, Hungary and Bulgaria; almost exclusively on trains, but with one trip on a bus because of strikes. It makes for entertaining reading, too, which, if you have read any of Chesshyre’s work before, you’d be familiar with. They get on really well and their account of their travels out there did make me laugh a lot at times.
After they reached Istanbul, Danny had elected to fly back home to relieve his wife from looking after the three children. Chesshyre was going to have to make his own way home, a challenge he relished. Rather than go back the way he had come, he chose a route that would take him through Greece, across the Adriatic to Italy and along one of the world’s most beautiful railway lines in Switzerland and then onward to the Netherlands.
I have read a number of Chesshyre’s books in the past, so I was really looking forward to this, and I am glad to say, it didn’t disappoint at all. It is both an entertaining and informative read. He has a keen eye for detail and particularly likes the variety of stations and the architectural differences they have. I haven’t expanded on the events of the route, because I think that this is something you should read and discover for yourselves when you read it. This is something that I can wholeheartedly recommend that you do.
Of course, he had.
The reason for the question was that Danny had seen that they were having a half-price sale to celebrate 50 years of the service. Danny had the idea that they should spend an entire month travelling around Europe. He was so enthused by the idea he had even broached the subject with his wife and been given a provisional pass.
They bought tickets there and then on the bench in Soho Square, before heading to Stanford’s to get a couple of maps. It didn’t take them long to concoct a plan, and they both knew the destination: Istanbul.
Sadly, a half-price Interrail ticket wouldn’t let them go on the horrendously priced Orient Express. Instead of spending vast amounts of time sorting their itinerary out, they decided to let serendipity reign and follow their instincts and the tracks. This, they hoped, would add a level of jeopardy to the trip and help them see a completely different range of places and people.
They arrived at St Pancras for the Eurostar in good time. There was a slight concern that their first destination, Paris, had been on fire because of riots. They were both slightly apprehensive as they disembarked the train in the station.
However, all seemed well as they alighted in Paris and they headed to their hotel, which just so happened to be in the same area that George Orwell stayed in many years before. They had a night out on and returned late to the hotel. Strasbourg was tomorrow’s destination and they had a train to catch early afternoon.
This was the beginning of the long winding route that would take them across Europe on their way to Istanbul. They pass through Germany, Austria, Hungary and Bulgaria; almost exclusively on trains, but with one trip on a bus because of strikes. It makes for entertaining reading, too, which, if you have read any of Chesshyre’s work before, you’d be familiar with. They get on really well and their account of their travels out there did make me laugh a lot at times.
After they reached Istanbul, Danny had elected to fly back home to relieve his wife from looking after the three children. Chesshyre was going to have to make his own way home, a challenge he relished. Rather than go back the way he had come, he chose a route that would take him through Greece, across the Adriatic to Italy and along one of the world’s most beautiful railway lines in Switzerland and then onward to the Netherlands.
I have read a number of Chesshyre’s books in the past, so I was really looking forward to this, and I am glad to say, it didn’t disappoint at all. It is both an entertaining and informative read. He has a keen eye for detail and particularly likes the variety of stations and the architectural differences they have. I haven’t expanded on the events of the route, because I think that this is something you should read and discover for yourselves when you read it. This is something that I can wholeheartedly recommend that you do.
June 17, 2024
What a journey, starting in St Pancras all the way to Istanbul ( with a friend ) and then back via a different route and by himself
A seasoned and well versed travel journalist and lover of train journeys the author writes with abandon and includes everything that would interest a reader including the train he is on, what he can see and hear and smell and observe, the food/drink, locals, culture, housing and a potted history if and when he think’s of interest
It’s a smorgasbord of info and observations and changing scenery and Countries and lives and background antidotes that inform, thrill and conjure up a whole world of possibilities
Me and Matt have done the journey part way to Vienna ( now hard to believe ha ) and went on the ‘real’ Orient Express ( not the posh one ) so it was wonderful to be back there on that leg of the journey
Thoroughly enjoyable with plenty of twists and turns ( train ones ) and I want to read all his previous books now 😀
A seasoned and well versed travel journalist and lover of train journeys the author writes with abandon and includes everything that would interest a reader including the train he is on, what he can see and hear and smell and observe, the food/drink, locals, culture, housing and a potted history if and when he think’s of interest
It’s a smorgasbord of info and observations and changing scenery and Countries and lives and background antidotes that inform, thrill and conjure up a whole world of possibilities
Me and Matt have done the journey part way to Vienna ( now hard to believe ha ) and went on the ‘real’ Orient Express ( not the posh one ) so it was wonderful to be back there on that leg of the journey
Thoroughly enjoyable with plenty of twists and turns ( train ones ) and I want to read all his previous books now 😀
October 18, 2024
A train journey is one of those marmite situations, if you are commuting or trying to get somewhere on time (that isn’t in Switzerland) then it can be the worst thing on this planet, if you are doing it for leisure then it can be one of the best things on this planet. So far I have only used trains for attempting to get somewhere for an event, but I’d love to be like Chesshyre and to hit the tracks for fun, leaving everything up to Destiny to see where you end up, exploring the highlands via train would be top of me list.
I recently read Chesshyre’s book on slow trains around Spain and enjoyed it, I started this one wondering if I would enjoy it as much, surely it is just more of the same, right? Totally wrong is what I was. The trip is very different, crossing many different countries you get to witness different cultures, different ways the railway operates and far different vistas than was witnessed in Spain. The midnight border crossings with passport checks had a real surreal moment to them, Chesshyre has such an easy going nature to him that he managed to briefly bond with other tired passengers even in that sleepy situation. And this time he had a companion with him for some of the trip, Danny provides a comic element to situations, a protective hat to ward off the many suspicious teens loitering around got me every time and how much enjoyment he got out of a lot of new experiences had me craving for the same.
The trip focuses on the route the Orient Express used to take, Chesshyre shares plenty of history about the origin of the idea, those who travelled, the places they stopped and the scantily clad ladies who came along on certain parts of the journeys. He goes into detail about how the interrail ticket works, (amazing idea in my opinion and not something I had ever heard of), he does a brief bit of sightseeing at each stop, in which the info shared with us is what he learns at the location. He shares tips, things he finds worked for him and those that fell flat, just one of the many reasons for giving this book a go. Chesshyre has such an easy way with words that within a few pages you have been pulled in and are there with him for the whole journey.
Another stunner from this very talented train traveller, Slow Trains to Venice has moved to the top of my wishlist, I need more travel adventures.
Blog review: https://felcherman.wordpress.com/2024...
I recently read Chesshyre’s book on slow trains around Spain and enjoyed it, I started this one wondering if I would enjoy it as much, surely it is just more of the same, right? Totally wrong is what I was. The trip is very different, crossing many different countries you get to witness different cultures, different ways the railway operates and far different vistas than was witnessed in Spain. The midnight border crossings with passport checks had a real surreal moment to them, Chesshyre has such an easy going nature to him that he managed to briefly bond with other tired passengers even in that sleepy situation. And this time he had a companion with him for some of the trip, Danny provides a comic element to situations, a protective hat to ward off the many suspicious teens loitering around got me every time and how much enjoyment he got out of a lot of new experiences had me craving for the same.
The trip focuses on the route the Orient Express used to take, Chesshyre shares plenty of history about the origin of the idea, those who travelled, the places they stopped and the scantily clad ladies who came along on certain parts of the journeys. He goes into detail about how the interrail ticket works, (amazing idea in my opinion and not something I had ever heard of), he does a brief bit of sightseeing at each stop, in which the info shared with us is what he learns at the location. He shares tips, things he finds worked for him and those that fell flat, just one of the many reasons for giving this book a go. Chesshyre has such an easy way with words that within a few pages you have been pulled in and are there with him for the whole journey.
Another stunner from this very talented train traveller, Slow Trains to Venice has moved to the top of my wishlist, I need more travel adventures.
Blog review: https://felcherman.wordpress.com/2024...
August 30, 2025
I do love a good travel book, and if the journey is made either on foot or by train (the two methods of travelling that are most likely to throw up interesting encounters and unusual details of the places visited) then all the better. Tom Chesshyre has done both; his walking journeys along the entire route of the Thames and through the Lake District were both enjoyable and informative, but I’ve only just discovered that he has written many books based on his long-distance train journeys in Europe and beyond. I grew up on Paul Theroux’s great train adventures but Chesshyre is a more laid back travelling companion; less opinionated (although that’s very much relative as he certainly isn’t without opinions…) and more accepting of what he finds on his travels. Slow Trains to Istanbul sees him taking advantage of the extension of the Interrail Europe-wide rover pass to all ages to travel in a leisurely circle around Europe starting and finishing at his London home. He is accompanied as far as Istanbul by an old friend, but does the return leg alone. With no particular itinerary in mind, they travel as the mood takes them, usually staying in budget accommodation in ‘odd little lanes by stations’ often overlooked by travel guides. This approach works well for taking the real measure of the places they visit and the result is an entertaining and informative meander through a continent facing many challenges and changes.
April 29, 2025
If you like travel books, recounting tales of visiting new places and encountering different cultures, you'll like Slow Trains to Istanbul. Starting his rail journey with his friend Danny and their discount rail passes, Tom Chesshyre takes us along as he seeks to use various trains to complete an Orient Express-like journey around Europe.
The author's travels include visiting countries that really aren't on my list; particularly, some members of the former Soviet bloc that haven't really recovered from those days. Even so, reading his descriptions of the places and things he encounters, as well as the people along the way, is a fun time, particularly if you enjoy travel.
Mr. Chesshyre's trip hits snags, including strikes and other disruptions. As he notes, however, "Travel, like life perhaps, has a delicious quality when you make it up as you go along. Trains allow you to do that."
He also brings a lovely dry humor to passages. For example, "The grandmother left the compartment and sidled up to me holding forth a bottle of cold coffee, which she kindly offered as a morning gift to a compartment compatriot. I accepted and she smiled and said: 'Prost! She must have thought Danny and I were German: hence this cheers!>/i> How very nice of her. We were all getting along swimmingly on the 21:50 to Romania's capital (although later, looking up the word prost in Romanian, I found it translated as 'dumbass', so perhaps I'd been getting the wrong end of the stick)."
I enjoyed this book and recommend it to anyone who likes to visit new places, either in person or vicariously!
The author's travels include visiting countries that really aren't on my list; particularly, some members of the former Soviet bloc that haven't really recovered from those days. Even so, reading his descriptions of the places and things he encounters, as well as the people along the way, is a fun time, particularly if you enjoy travel.
Mr. Chesshyre's trip hits snags, including strikes and other disruptions. As he notes, however, "Travel, like life perhaps, has a delicious quality when you make it up as you go along. Trains allow you to do that."
He also brings a lovely dry humor to passages. For example, "The grandmother left the compartment and sidled up to me holding forth a bottle of cold coffee, which she kindly offered as a morning gift to a compartment compatriot. I accepted and she smiled and said: 'Prost! She must have thought Danny and I were German: hence this cheers!>/i> How very nice of her. We were all getting along swimmingly on the 21:50 to Romania's capital (although later, looking up the word prost in Romanian, I found it translated as 'dumbass', so perhaps I'd been getting the wrong end of the stick)."
I enjoyed this book and recommend it to anyone who likes to visit new places, either in person or vicariously!
September 16, 2024
Oh my. I enjoyed this so, so much. I have never been on a 'proper' train journey, and the very idea of it fills me with a combination of nostalgia and delight. And Istanbul being very high on my bucket list of must-visits made this even more magical. Also, we need to start travelling more sustainably.
Tom Chesshyre is a seasoned train traveller, and his writing is interspersed with a lot of fascinating, geeky but not-too-technical train stuff, along with a true appreciation for this elegant and classic mode of transport. Slow Trains is a veritable smorgasbord of wonder, the smells, tastes, sights and sounds that the author experiences are eruditely described and you feel for all the world as if you are there. Or at the very least you should be there.
I can just imagine the rhythmic clackety-clack, and how it would lull me into a sense of pure contentment, like a comfortable pair of slippers. I'd have a good book or twenty that I would dip into in between looking out the window at the world passing by. I'd enjoy my tipple with a nod to Hercule Poirot and his Crème de cassis and wonder - for the gazillionth time - at the golden age of train travel and what it must have been like to be aboard a marvel such as the Orient Express.
This is a lovely read, conjuring up a world of possibilities. Get comfy with a large glass of red or a piping hot cup of tea and settle in for a marvellous adventure.
4 and a half stars, each one full of potential.
Tom Chesshyre is a seasoned train traveller, and his writing is interspersed with a lot of fascinating, geeky but not-too-technical train stuff, along with a true appreciation for this elegant and classic mode of transport. Slow Trains is a veritable smorgasbord of wonder, the smells, tastes, sights and sounds that the author experiences are eruditely described and you feel for all the world as if you are there. Or at the very least you should be there.
I can just imagine the rhythmic clackety-clack, and how it would lull me into a sense of pure contentment, like a comfortable pair of slippers. I'd have a good book or twenty that I would dip into in between looking out the window at the world passing by. I'd enjoy my tipple with a nod to Hercule Poirot and his Crème de cassis and wonder - for the gazillionth time - at the golden age of train travel and what it must have been like to be aboard a marvel such as the Orient Express.
This is a lovely read, conjuring up a world of possibilities. Get comfy with a large glass of red or a piping hot cup of tea and settle in for a marvellous adventure.
4 and a half stars, each one full of potential.
June 20, 2024
We need to start traveling sustainably and to fly less. However most of the places we want to go to are a long boring journey away if we chose anything other than a cheap flight. This great book will inspire anyone who reads it to take a slow train to Istanbul and enjoy the journey. The Journey is the destination should be more peoples mantras. Tom is a well known travel writer who specialises in trains, so he knows his stuff. He is entertaining and engaging so the book is fun to read. It has exactly the right ratio of geeky train stuff, historical information, and amusing tales from the route. It is framed as a lads trip, though there is a lot more depth to the book than cheery bantz. It is a light and entertaining book which will encourage anyone who reads it to think about traveling overland in at least one direction if at all possible.
August 3, 2025
Easy read for travel and train enthusiasts! It follows two lifelong college friends, now middle age men, who decide to buy Euro passes to travel across the cities of Europe to Istanbul. This trip was inspired by the bygone era of high class train exploration before planes. Trains once catering to high society with white tablecloth service as railroads connected cities and countries. Trains no longer cater to upper society and anyone can travel using trains across Europe. The Euro rail (a fabulous mode of European adventures!) is celebrating 65 years of service! First operating in 1959, it has grown and expanded to over 33 countries. What a great way to travel as you relax in the comfort of a train. I spent my summer following the Silk Road landing in Istanbul at the end of my 8 week journey. Follow along as these friends journey across the continent to Istanbul!
June 17, 2025
A thoroughly enjoyable read. Ideal for a period when I was working longish hours in a new and somewhat stressful job, as it doesn't require detailed study and can be broken up into short sections without losing impetous. The style is, perhaps inevitably, picaresque. Flowing and well written by an author who is happy, just to observe without any very strong opinions, with the rather charming exception of railway stations. It left me wanting to read another of his books, which I suppose is recommendation enough.
November 19, 2024
An enjoyable journey for the reader. I used to live in Istanbul and welcome any opportunity to read about this marvellous and entrancing city. Reminds me of the old Paul Theroux books, but from a more down-to-earth point of view, and it has made me long to buy an Interrail ticket and set off on an adventure.
Thanks to the publisher for a review copy.
Thanks to the publisher for a review copy.
March 8, 2025
As someone who loves train travel and hates airports, this is the journey I'd do if I had more time and money. Thankfully Tom Chesshyre was able to do it for me and I could live vicariously through him. I'd probably spend a bit more on accommodation though.
September 27, 2024
An okay read of a journey out to Istanbul and back.
January 11, 2025
The excellent sort of travel writing that takes you to a time and place, the mundane sort of things that are interesting about travel.
Displaying 1 - 13 of 13 reviews