American Fried

The Tummy Trilogy #1

by Calvin Trillin

The New Yorker's Calvin Trillin loves food while despising the très haut Francophile gourmet—the kind who can produce a dissertation on the proper consistency of sauce Béarnaise. Trillin knows that the search for good food requires constant vigilance particularly when outside the Big Apple. Not that Cincinnati and Houston and Kansas City (his hometown) lack magnificent places to eat—if one can resist the importunities of those well-meaning ignoramuses who insist on hauling you off to La Maison de la Casa House, the pride of local epicures too dumb to realize that the noblest culinary creations of the American heartland are barbecued ribs, fried chicken, hash browns and hamburgers. Trillin is ready to do battle for K.C.'s Winstead's as the home of the greatest burger in the USA. Generally, he advises, you will do fine if you avoid ""any restaurant the executive secretary of the chamber of commerce is particularly proud of."" Also, any restaurant with (ply)wood paneling and ""atmosphere,"" where the food is likely to taste ""something like a medium-rare sponge."" This then is not a celebration of multi-star ""restaurants"" but of diners, roadhouses, eateries—the kind that serve food on wax paper or plastic plates and to hell with Craig Claiborne. With tongue in stuffed cheek Trillin gives the finger to the food snobs, confessing his secret vices with fiendish glee and high good humor.

Genres: Food, Nonfiction, Humor, Memoir, Essays, Cookbooks, Cooking

183 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 1975

About the author

Calvin (Bud) Marshall Trillin is an American journalist, humorist, and novelist. He is best known for his humorous writings about food and eating, but he has also written much serious journalism, comic verse, and several books of fiction.

Trillin attended public schools in Kansas City and went on to Yale University, where he served as chairman of the Yale Daily News and became a member of Scroll and Key before graduating in 1957; he later served as a trustee of the university. After a stint in the U.S. Army, he worked as a reporter for Time magazine before joining the staff of The New Yorker in 1963. His reporting for The New Yorker on the racial integration of the University of Georgia was published in his first book, An Education in Georgia. He wrote the magazine's "U.S. Journal" series from 1967 to 1982, covering local events both serious and quirky throughout the United States.

Reviews

[Greg · Rating 5 out of 5]

As I was reminded of the fond memories of reading American Fried while reading John T. Edge's The Potlikker Papers: A Food History of the Modern South , it occurred to me that Trillin's book might well have been the first real "grown-up" book I had ever read. Trillin is much like A.J. Liebling, a writer who is unquantifiable and beyond category. He writes humor, poetry, political and social commentary, travel logs and just about any subject that interests him. After reading this book, I used to follow his pieces in various magazines, mostly in The New Yorker, and on his occasional appearances on television.

Edge's summary of American Fried, made me realize how much Trillin's words and experiences shaped the person I was to become:

[Calvin Trillin’s] first food book, American Fried, published in 1974, tapped the zeitgeist for honest American. Instead of adopting the countercuisine of brown rice, tofu, and tamari. Trillin argued for vernacular foods. He rejected “La Maison de la Casa House” restaurants where the speciality was “Frozen Duck à l’Orange Soda Pop,” in favor of fried chicken from the Kansas City roadhouse Stroud’s and barbecue from the crosstown smoke shack Arthur Bryant’s. Trillin waged a one-man war against continentalism, challenging readers to reevaluate foods of their youth. His playful boosterism inspired a generation of writers. And he emboldened a generation of eaters. Trillin, who traveled the region to report on the civil rights movement, inspired Southerners to appreciate specialties like crawfish, mutton and maque choux.

He introduced the nation to the joys of unsung eater’s towns like Breaux Bridge, Louisiana and Owensboro, Kentucky. Channeling a new respect for African American knowledge and expertise, while poking subtle fun at a new generation of white Americans who fetishized the working-class foods of black women and men, Trillen wrote, “Going to a white-run barbecue is, I think, like going to a gentile internist: It might turn out all right, but you haven’t made any attempt to take advantage of the percentages.”

The few times I've been to Kansas City, I make a point of visiting Arthur Bryant's. Their version of salty barbecue, the sliced pork and brisket piled New York deli-style high between two pieces of white bread, ordered at a tiny, smokey window and eaten on ancient formica tables, is one of the great culinary experiences one could ever hope to experience. The pig's ear sandwiches at the Big Apple Inn in Jackson, Mississippi are surprisingly tender and somehow taste better knowing they were Medgar Evers' favorites. And he had them often since his office was upstairs. But give the hot sausage and fried bologna a chance too. I've loved the dueling cheesesteak places, Geno's and Pat's, which are caddy corner from each other in South Philadelphia. More for the lore than anything. The Serbian-style fried Barberton fried chicken, made from Amish-raised chickens, is among the greatest joys of living in Ohio. The memory of a po-boy at Guy's on Magazine Street in New Orleans can bring tears to my eyes. As does a Cambodian pulled pork sandwich with marinated carrots at Num Pang in Manhattan (which vies with the noodles at Xi'an Famous Foods for my attention). Any food truck in Austin, Texas will do. Or a Jucy Lucy at the 5-8 Club in Minneapolis. And searching for the holy grail of tacos al pastor, which are a little different at every Los Burritos in the Los Angeles area, where each greasy morsel melts in your mouth, is a joyous crusade. Don't get me started on my quest to try every type of bratwurst and currywurst in Germany.

If that list of cuisine intrigues you, so will American Fried. Thanks, Calvin, for pushing me off on a culinary journey that will never reach its goal.

[Jan · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book shaped my world-view to an almost embarrassing extent. It is so deeply ingrained my central nervous system but also so similar to how my parents talked about food and restaurants that it is impossible for me to guess how much of my own view of food came from my parents versus Calvin Trillin's writing versus my own actual independent likes or dislikes. Doonesbury, Peanuts, Calvin Trillin and Winnie the Pooh are the four things that come quickest to mind that reached the "things that I unconsciously use as filters whenever I am trying to understand the world," especially in early adulthood.

I even made a couple notes in my parents' copy of this book when I was about 11, which embarrasses me horribly and reminds me of the Flowers for Algernon passage where our hero wants to go back and correct all the mistakes in his journal that he made before the increased intelligence had kicked in.

[Emily Hewitt · Rating 2 out of 5]

I usually don’t give books below 3 stars, but this book just wasn’t interesting to me in the slightest. For what it’s worth, that’s probably my fault because I genuinely thought this book was an exploration of food history and culture across America. That’s what I get for barely reading the back of the book and not researching the author who is known for his humorous writing style. In 2022 this book just seemed outdated and even the jokes were not amusing to me. The book was written well and easy to follow…it just wasn’t the right book for my interests. I guess I will be returning it to the little free library near me very soon!

[Audrey · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is another food memoir by Calvin Trillin, he has written three, this is the first one.

He is just so funny and I love his stories about his eating adventures. In this book we also get to meet some very interesting people he has met and befriended on his eating adventures, my favorite is Fats Goldberg.

I loved reading about the different restaurants and festivals he has visited searching for the perfect meal and I laughed quite a few times at his observations, he is just so witty.

This book was written in the early 70's so some readers might think it is a little dated but I didn't find that to be the case at all, alot of observations on fast food and areas of the country staying true to their talents and what they are best known for, foodwise, still ring true today.

Of course the biggest truth I believed he shared was in his opening chapter when he said that Kansas City was home to some of the best food in the country, especially Arthur Bryants, his personal favorite.

[Chris "Stu" · Rating 5 out of 5]

Calvin Trillin is a warmly funny author with a food obsession. The book is a collection of his columns from the mid 70s from all over the country. Most of the restaurants he mentions no longer exist, or if they do, exist in Kansas City or New Orleans or the like--however, his mentality around food is timeless: getting good food, rather than overpriced food, and eating it whenever you want to do so. This means mostly going to small family run restaurants rather than what he dismissively calls La Maison de la Casa House, Continental Food.

But primarily, Trillin is funny. I kept stopping every couple of pages to read a paragraph or two to my ever-patient girlfriend. It's that type of book. The only complaint I have is that it's too short. Luckily, it's the first book of a trilogy. So I've got that going for me.

[Laura · Rating 3 out of 5]

I enjoyed reading this book, partly because I like Calvin Trillin's voice, which comes through loud and clear (although I wonder how he eats as much as he writes that he does), and partly because it takes me back to my childhood. Also, in one of the essays (about being in New Orleans during a dietician's convention), I am reminded how the more things change, the more they stay the same. I liked it even though it became clear that Calvin and I might have different views about the usefulness of government. But, Alice, Let's Eat was much funnier and included more of Alice and his daughters, which I particularly appreciated.

[Hope · Rating 5 out of 5]

Trillin scores again with his eccentric humor and serious criticism of American regional and church supper/potluck cuisine. This time, he wanders with Fats Goldburg, the formerly obese pizza baron, to Kansas City and back. His trip to Louisiana with his wife, Alice, to the Breaux Bridge crawdad festival is classic Trillin.

While he is a noted food writer, Trillin is also a political humorist, reminiscent of Mark Twain. While his early books might seem to be a bit outdated, most hold up well. This is one which does.

[James · Rating 3 out of 5]

Amusing collection from articles published in THE NEW YORKER and other publications all about Calvin Trillin's edible escapades from Kansas City to NYC. He does love french fries. He writes with a wry wit (and he loves a Jewish deli and actual rye bread) and very dry humor. This is part one of his Tummy Trilogy which encompasses his digestive detours across America and elsewhere. He has a yen for trying anything that smells good or looks good or he hears is good. I just wish his yen for analogies and metaphors was less seasoned in the pieces. He peppers them throughout very liberally.

[Sarah · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book makes me so happy. First, I love reading about food. Second, Calvin Trillin has such a personality that comes out in his writing. He knows he's being ridiculous, and the whole book is gently poking fun at himself. He is right that everyone seems to think the best (insert type of food) is from their hometown. Incidentally, the best steak in the world can be found at Flames in Millwood, Westchester.

[Ensiform · Rating 3 out of 5]

Humorist Trillin talks about his love for good old American food, especially hamburgers, barbecue, and crawfish, as opposed to fancy, pretentious faux-French food.

He's a funny guy, although he's mostly a three-joke writer: he eats an enormous amount, his wife makes arch comments, and it's a scientifically provable fact that his hometown in Kansas has the best food in the world. Enjoyable enough, but can’t say I see what all the food writers revere about Trillin.

[Kevin Buckley · Rating 3 out of 5]

I never could develop a flow with this book - and maybe it is just the style where chapters are separate little stories.

I also think I suffer from the book being older, so some of the explanations have a difficult time translating to the current reader.

I trust that I will learn to enjoy this author, as I did smile at many of his comments --- I will circle back to the other two titles I have by this author at a later time -

[Ben Crouse · Rating 3 out of 5]

I have endless respect for Calvin Trillin, the first populist of food criticism who preludes other champions of the working class such as Jonathan Gold and of course the great sauceman G. Fieri.
Writing-wise every moment in this book is just building up to a one-liner which feels like Calvin grinning at you expectantly and jabbing you in the ribs. Love what this book is doing, maybe not how it's doing it.

[Ross · Rating 4 out of 5]

Calvin Trillin riffs on eateries and arteries as he tracks down the best meals (in Kansas City, Cincinnati, New York, and elsewhere) in the early 1970’s. His impressions of some of the specific restaurants are undoubtedly obsolete, but his crackling observations of human behavior are funny and don't seem dated.

[Carley · Rating 2 out of 5]

Decent food writing about barbeque, pizza, chili, fried chicken and crawfish. The book got a bit slow towards the end. Trillin focuses on a few specific areas of the US, Kansas City, his hometown, New York City, where he currently resides, and Cincinnati and New Orleans.

[Jim · Rating 4 out of 5]

fun as always whether talking about food or Halloween in Greenich Village and his family or the American Scene
-Trillin makes observations without hammering the reader over the head with Trillin's point of view

[Susan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Trillin's classic "adventures of a happy eater" is heavy on regional food, including the food of New York, but totally devoid of recipes. It's a pleasure to read about a lot of places and people who just want to cook (maybe) and eat good food.

[John Hubbard · Rating 3 out of 5]

The writing is very good. The book is clearly dated. I don't think this holds up like MFK Fischer work for historical interest but still tells us a lot about changes in the American imagination of food.

[Ted · Rating 3 out of 5]

Fluffy food talk, dealing primarily with the writer's obsession with Kansas City fare. Does make me want to eat at Arthur Bryant's, that's for sure.

[Barbara Rice · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is the first Trillin book I ever read, way back in the late '70s. It was amusing and appetizing and made me want to go to these places immediately. It launched me into becoming a Trillin fan.

[Katherine Tomlinson · Rating 4 out of 5]

Calvin Trillin's food writing is mouth-watering and funny.

[Drewski Caesarski · Rating 5 out of 5]

fun

[Jane Giardino · Rating 4 out of 5]

There is no writer quite like Calvin Trillin. For years I read all his columns in the New Yorker. I especially enjoyed his food writing. On my first road trip west ( 1982) I tried hard to find Arthur Bryant's BBQ in Kansas city. No Yelp or Google to help, sadly missed. I enjoyed these stories and will go on with "Alice, Let's Eat", number 2 in the Tummy Trilogy.

[Alan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very funny essays on eating. Trillin loves to eat and talks about barbecue, crawfish, and fried chicken. He haunts the Chinese restaurants of the midwest and the Jewish delis of New York. This was republished as 1/3 of The Tummy Trilogy

[Lizzy Novikoff · Rating 3 out of 5]

Reading this book felt like talking to that one out of pocket uncle everyone has that they only see at holidays. The references and descriptions were certainly dated, but it was neat to see many of the restaurants referenced are still in business and loved.

[Margery Osborne · Rating 5 out of 5]

love

[Bethany Berger · Rating 2 out of 5]

Super fatphobic

[Daphne · Rating 2 out of 5]

I didn’t love this as much as I wanted to. I don’t usually mind if books are dated, but this was so dated it wasn’t much fun.

[Nellie farrow · Rating 5 out of 5]

2025 restaurant influencers would make him want to kill himself!

So well written and funny

[Katie Fitzgerald · Rating 4 out of 5]

My dad and I shared a love for Calvin Trillin's humor, and we went to see him speak one year at the New Yorker Festival. As the first anniversary of my dad's death arrived, I found myself remembering Trillin's presentation and decided to read this book (Trillin's first) sort of in memory of my dad. Though a lot of the references to cities and foods were lost on me, I did appreciate Trillin's dry sense of humor in his commentary. I plan to read more of his works this fall and winter.

[Deborah · Rating 4 out of 5]

Still one of my favorites after twenty-some-odd years. I love his stories.