By now, pretty much anyone with an interest in popular culture, food or books knows who Anthony Bourdain is. With his wildly successful debut nonfiction title, Kitchen Confidential, Bourdain burst onto the literary scene with an acerbic, profane and hilarious voice all his own. Lambasting the industry he made a career in for 28 years while at the same time baring his own addictions and shortcomings, Bourdain rightly became a darling of the very people he tore apart. He translated this success into a series of television shows that centered not on his cooking skills but rather his love of travel, exploring and experiencing other cultures through their food. In the process, he transcended both the genre and the medium.
Ten years latr, if anyone wondered whether this level of success would mellow Bourdain, Medium Raw is another emphatic "Fuck no!" to that question. In a series of loosely connected essays, Bourdain continues to marshal his considerable storytelling skills to disembowel the current state of gastronomy, laying out on the cutting board the celebrity chefs, the heroes and villains of the industry, the bloggers, tv show hosts, rich bitch ex girlfriends and media CEOs, all the while poking and prodding at the ridiculous(Alice Waters' hypocritical "slow food" dinners for which she trucks in food from 6 hours away and flies in chefs from across the country) and the status quo(ripping to threads the entrenched GQ food critic Alan Richman, where Bourdain starts the essay calling Richman an asshole and culminates with him calling the man a cunt).
Bourdain obviously revels in his ability to inflame his critics. Case in point: his opening salvo, a lush, nearly pornographic account of a furtive dinner he attends with other chef celebrities where he's served the decadent and illegal ortolan bunting (an ancient French peasant dish that consists of a fattened endangered baby bird drowned [literally] in licquer. In an elaborate and ritualistic dinner, the chick is eaten whole, headfirst, organs, bones and head intact and with the diner's head shrouded by a napkin, to savor the aroma and it's said, to hide one's face from God.)
Or take his withering attack on vegetarianism and veganism, in the form of a venomous email to a friend, rightly questioning his friend's (and by proxy, the movement's) prioritizing animal suffering over human suffering. In the process, he skewers the Hindu veneration of the cow which often results in the animals wandering hungrily into cities and devouring plastic bags, dying slow painful deaths as the indigestible plastic winds its way through the beast's digestive system.
Despite the in your face punk bravado of Bourdain's prose, his credo is ultimately a down to earth humanism that shines through all his essays. Take his piece about Justo Thomas, the fish butcher of the Michelin starred fine dining establishment, Le Bernardin. Bourdain spends a day at work with the older immigrant worker as he dresses and preps 700 pounds of fish to Eric Ripert's highly exacting standards. So impressed by Thomas' skills and work ethic is Bourdain (always quick to extol the virtues of the unsung toiling masses behind the scenes in every restaurant, from the local taco joint to the French Laundry) that he treats the man to dinner at Le Bernardin. This is an especially touching part of the book, showing both the compassion and the camaraderie Bourdain feels for those whose work he admires. Though never apologizing for his success or wealth, Bourdain obviously respects those who make a pittance and could never afford to eat where they work.
It goes without saying that this is not everyone's osso bucco. If you're thin skinned and cling particularly hard to a dogma that Bourdain opposes, you probably already dislike this book and the man himself. If you cringe at Bourdain's easy and prolific use of even the most reviled profanities and obscenities, don't bother opening the book at all. If you pale at frank references to hard drug use by a recovered drug abuser who unapologetically still gets hammered on a regular basis, this book is not for you. If you have a problem with a sensual enjoyment of food that borders on- and often drunkenly stumbles into- the hedonistic, look elsewhere.
But if, like me, you crack the book knowing exactly what to expect, you'll find yet another reminder why Bourdain enjoys the success he does. His wit and intelligence are matched only by his obvious adoration for his subjects: food, those who make it and those who enjoy it. There are a few spots that drag a little, a few points Bourdain makes a little too emphatically. But knowing Bourdain's penchant for excess, is this really surprising? In the end, as with the most satisfying meals, the last bite leaves you longing for more despite feeling done for now.