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The A303
The A303 is more than a road - it is a story. 4500 years ago, the bluestones of Stonehenge were conveyed west from the river Avon along a small section of its route. Roman roads crossed it and drovers' paths lie beneath it. Tom Fort tells the story of one of Britain's most loved - and loathed - roads.
368 pages, Paperback
First published May 1, 2012
23 people are currently reading
133 people want to read
About the author
Tom Fort
19 books9 followersTom Fort was education at Eton and Balliol Collge, Oxford. On leaving Oxford he went to work as a reporter at the Slough Observer and the Slough Evening Mail before joining the BBC in 1978 where he worked in the BBC Radio newsroom in London for 22 years.
He took early retirement in 2000, just before the publication of his social history of lawns and lawn-mowing, The Grass is Greener.
He took early retirement in 2000, just before the publication of his social history of lawns and lawn-mowing, The Grass is Greener.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 47 reviews
July 5, 2013
Nostalgia is a warm bath - pleasant enough but shortly it cools to tepid and you're forced to make the choice to get out, shivering, and towel off. Tom Fort's gentle, engaging book steers mostly clear of whimsy but it is a little nostalgic, and why not? This is a book about a road for chrissakes and unlike America, with its Mother Roads and California Highways, the UK just doesn't cut it. The A1? I don't think so.
Fort's book takes the premise that British roads are like British people - steeped in history and secrets, a bit shambolic (a word I note that Apple's hideous transatlantic spellcheck doesn't understand), prone to let you down, slightly shabby, but that they eventually get there. And his book's a bit like that too. For those that don't know it, the A303 forms part of a major longer route from London to Penzance, except that it only goes about a third of the way, doing the bit between Basingstoke and Honiton. Presumably 'highway to the sun' is hopeful rather than just ironic.
Like the road, the book is unsatisfactory in places - spending a bit too long on well-documented Stonehenge whereas more time could have been spent on some of the obscure sites and sights. Yarnbury Castle is worthy of further exploration, as is Fonthill but he does justice to the eccentric Montacute and the enthusiastic bondage merchant Whips Wyndham.
Fort is uncomfortable with modern motoring (for the tv series which was the progenitor to this, he travelled the road in a Morris Minor) and it's clear he prefers reflecting back n the golden age of motor travel pre-M1, rather than the modern behmoth. He's also uneasy on the politics - although like all right thinking people he despises the Clarksons of this world with their self-centred me-go-faster notions, but he doesn't posit solutions, merely lays bare the dilemmas we seem incapable as a nation of solving.
The A303 crams a lot in, at times a bit too much - though I can forgive Fort a lot since his brother taught me to cook sausages (very, very slowly, clearly a theme in the family - till they caramelise, about 45 minutes on a very low heat). And like the road its namesake, the book stops rather abruptly,
Fort's book takes the premise that British roads are like British people - steeped in history and secrets, a bit shambolic (a word I note that Apple's hideous transatlantic spellcheck doesn't understand), prone to let you down, slightly shabby, but that they eventually get there. And his book's a bit like that too. For those that don't know it, the A303 forms part of a major longer route from London to Penzance, except that it only goes about a third of the way, doing the bit between Basingstoke and Honiton. Presumably 'highway to the sun' is hopeful rather than just ironic.
Like the road, the book is unsatisfactory in places - spending a bit too long on well-documented Stonehenge whereas more time could have been spent on some of the obscure sites and sights. Yarnbury Castle is worthy of further exploration, as is Fonthill but he does justice to the eccentric Montacute and the enthusiastic bondage merchant Whips Wyndham.
Fort is uncomfortable with modern motoring (for the tv series which was the progenitor to this, he travelled the road in a Morris Minor) and it's clear he prefers reflecting back n the golden age of motor travel pre-M1, rather than the modern behmoth. He's also uneasy on the politics - although like all right thinking people he despises the Clarksons of this world with their self-centred me-go-faster notions, but he doesn't posit solutions, merely lays bare the dilemmas we seem incapable as a nation of solving.
The A303 crams a lot in, at times a bit too much - though I can forgive Fort a lot since his brother taught me to cook sausages (very, very slowly, clearly a theme in the family - till they caramelise, about 45 minutes on a very low heat). And like the road its namesake, the book stops rather abruptly,
September 7, 2015
Goodness knows why I picked this book up. The A303 isn't part of my stamping ground at all - I may never have travelled on it. Nevertheless, it's an enjoyable read. Social history of the south and south west of the country, transport and farming history, the odd political diatribe, all written in a non-didactic way, with a light touch. I'd say it was the perfect holiday read if you're in that part of the world.
July 10, 2021
I'll preface this by saying I was a fan of Tom Fort already, having read Channel Shore, and The Village News, both of which I really enjoyed. It's taken me a long time to get around to reading this one, simply because I wasn't sure if it was going to live up to the other books. I needn't have worried, though. While ostensibly about the road itself, it's more of a whistle-stop tour of historical and/or interesting locations to be found along the route, with a mix of passing mentions and deeper introductions to the same. Getting to and from each place means descriptions of the road and the history of the road itself in that section. There's also political history in the context of road planning and development that goes beyond the A303, as well as other facts and side-shoots of information about wider-ranging subjects.
All of it is told with Tom's dry sense of humour, and a friendly, knowledgeable writing style. Many of us will have travelled the length of the A303 and have memories of it (fond or otherwise), and this book definitely does a great job of creating a sense of nostalgia but weaving it between what is a clever way of presenting historical facts of the road and local areas.
All of it is told with Tom's dry sense of humour, and a friendly, knowledgeable writing style. Many of us will have travelled the length of the A303 and have memories of it (fond or otherwise), and this book definitely does a great job of creating a sense of nostalgia but weaving it between what is a clever way of presenting historical facts of the road and local areas.
January 13, 2025
An enjoyable read but suffers from some major flaws. Trying to be way too many things at once - a political history of motoring, an ancient history of Wiltshire, a personal memoir, and evocation of some English quintessence...
The result is a collection of lurching changes in tone often unintentionally comical in their effect: " 'their mingled lives dissolved in one embrace, their mingled souls flew up in air.'... The Ilminster bypass is one of the minor oddities of the A303."
"There is an apprehension of a pure English ness... something noble and selfless in ourselves that we have somehow contrived to mislay... After crossing the A350, the A303 runs down the side of Charnage Down towards Mere."
I love the A303 but the simple fact is it doesn't deserve a whole book and therefore this book is about too many other things too.
The result is a collection of lurching changes in tone often unintentionally comical in their effect: " 'their mingled lives dissolved in one embrace, their mingled souls flew up in air.'... The Ilminster bypass is one of the minor oddities of the A303."
"There is an apprehension of a pure English ness... something noble and selfless in ourselves that we have somehow contrived to mislay... After crossing the A350, the A303 runs down the side of Charnage Down towards Mere."
I love the A303 but the simple fact is it doesn't deserve a whole book and therefore this book is about too many other things too.
July 17, 2018
The author's heart is in the right place. Despite this being a book about roads, he's not, when it comes down to it, very enamoured with them while successive governments - both Tory and Labour - that announce ambitious spending plans in order to gain votes and then don't follow through come in for especially heavy criticism. After all, the literal 'road maps' and plans cost a few million to draw up before even a square metre of tarmac is raised. That said, it's a book about a road - and a not especially interesting one as it turns out - I'd have liked more on how the Army have ransacked Salisbury Plain even if they have at least prevented agribusiness from doing so in a different way. At times it's as gentle as a classical music concert. He doesn't give any space to morris dancing though - mercifully.
September 8, 2013
The front cover harks back to the past. The road has rarely been that clear during daylight hours and Stonehenge has never been that close. It is a landscape conjured from memory.
Fortunately for the reader Tom does not lapse into bucolic cliché. This is a lively account of the road and the landscape it rumbles through. Mr Fort does not get overly starry-eyed, he is dismayed by roadside rubbish and the very act of driving.
Tom is a good travelling companion, informed, inquisitive and interested. It is also difficult to guess what his opinion is going to be before he has given it. One clear exception to this is the years of Thatcher's government which he views with something close to clear eyed hatred.
The TV show that drew my attention to this book is a muted highlights reel by comparison but still better than most things to be seen on the idiot box.
Tom Fort has done the work for us here but there are equally fascinating stories to be told all over England and this book is a springboard for the imagination.
Fortunately for the reader Tom does not lapse into bucolic cliché. This is a lively account of the road and the landscape it rumbles through. Mr Fort does not get overly starry-eyed, he is dismayed by roadside rubbish and the very act of driving.
Tom is a good travelling companion, informed, inquisitive and interested. It is also difficult to guess what his opinion is going to be before he has given it. One clear exception to this is the years of Thatcher's government which he views with something close to clear eyed hatred.
The TV show that drew my attention to this book is a muted highlights reel by comparison but still better than most things to be seen on the idiot box.
Tom Fort has done the work for us here but there are equally fascinating stories to be told all over England and this book is a springboard for the imagination.
September 20, 2015
Can't honestly say I strapped myself in, floored the accelerator and read this one straight to the end. I read the book instead in fits and starts over a couple of months. All the stories are threaded together by the A303 and they're beguiling, but I'd have liked more of the present-day people, like Annie and her famous tea bar. Although it can often seem that every documentary these days is packaged as 'a journey', for me, it was that sense of a single journey that was missing. I'd have liked Tom Fort to find himself another bottle-green Saab 96 and fly down the road in it as he did some years ago. Don't go looking for a travel book, this is more of a history, and, at times, even a political rant. What I'd really have liked is a map, telling me where to find the historical tales in the text, so I could shove the book in the glovebox and refer to it en route, safely pulled over of course.
May 24, 2013
Trailed by a whimsical but rather lacklustre TV programme I only bought the book because it is my local highway. Hackneyed to say it but the book is so much better than the film. Why? Because the author can meander off the road on foot and by bicycle and bring to bear the full skill of an accomplished feature writer with the true eccentricities of an English polymath (with a particular delight in historical backwaters and byways). I would go so far as to say that Fort is to the A303 as Jerome K Jerome was to the Thames in his time.
February 14, 2024
This isn't just about a ribbon of tarmac, but is a wonderful social history of the towns and villages along this road, as well as a history of (failed) road programmes, by successive governments. Promises, sound bites, plans, budgets, feasibility studies and then enquires, until the cycles starts all over again, with very little actually getting built.
Fort has not only carried out a great deal of research as he has cycled and walked along this road, but has a real writer's gift of producing a very readable book, full of pompous Lords of Manors and Earls, who had their bubbles burst, as well as about ordinary folk.
For an example of his style, he comments that in a random survey along four miles of the road, he identified one dead barn owl, a bat, two badgers, a hedgehog, two rabbits, two pigeons and a greater spotted woodpecker, just some of the million plus mammals killed each year on our roads. He didn't see any dead deer though, in this section and in his travels up and down he had only ever seen two deer corpses. He goes on to write:
"Yet the deer seems to be the one creature that the Highways Agency cares about. Along the A303, as well as motorways and main roads across southern England, the Agency has placed signs showing an abundantly antlered running stag. Frequently these signs also advise a specific length of road on which - presumably - the motorist may expect to encounter one of these animals. There is one on the westbound M4 which gives a distance of 37-and-a-half miles. Curiously the sign placed on the eastbound side at the far end has 33 miles on it - suggesting that there are four-and-a-half miles where a deer may appear on one side of the motorway but not on the other. "
Fort's observation of, often comic, detail, makes for a fun read whether you are a frequent road user, or not.
Highly recommended.
Fort has not only carried out a great deal of research as he has cycled and walked along this road, but has a real writer's gift of producing a very readable book, full of pompous Lords of Manors and Earls, who had their bubbles burst, as well as about ordinary folk.
For an example of his style, he comments that in a random survey along four miles of the road, he identified one dead barn owl, a bat, two badgers, a hedgehog, two rabbits, two pigeons and a greater spotted woodpecker, just some of the million plus mammals killed each year on our roads. He didn't see any dead deer though, in this section and in his travels up and down he had only ever seen two deer corpses. He goes on to write:
"Yet the deer seems to be the one creature that the Highways Agency cares about. Along the A303, as well as motorways and main roads across southern England, the Agency has placed signs showing an abundantly antlered running stag. Frequently these signs also advise a specific length of road on which - presumably - the motorist may expect to encounter one of these animals. There is one on the westbound M4 which gives a distance of 37-and-a-half miles. Curiously the sign placed on the eastbound side at the far end has 33 miles on it - suggesting that there are four-and-a-half miles where a deer may appear on one side of the motorway but not on the other. "
Fort's observation of, often comic, detail, makes for a fun read whether you are a frequent road user, or not.
Highly recommended.
May 3, 2019
I found this book on the shelves in a holiday cottage I was staying in at Dartmouth and, having lived in Wiltshire through my teenage years and into my twenties, was familiar with much of the area to which the book relates so was interested to see what the author had to say about the area. Whilst the book covers the history and development of the A303 as one of the major holiday routes through the West Country, it is also far more than that. The author provides a potted history of strategic landmarks and towns along the route, from early Britons to Saxons, Romans and Normans; famous legends surrounding King Arthur (Cadbury Castle alleged to be Camelot) and Stonehenge; the clashes between the political will of various governments, the motorists and the environmentalists that have caused such a 'mish-mash' of road development generally and how this has impacted on the A303; but also has taught me things that I never knew, such as the use of water meadows and the role of the Drowner and the use of flocks of Wiltshire Horn sheep, the meat and fleece of which were both at best average, merely as providers of fertiliser for the arable crop fields by the use of their dung! An interesting and enjoyable read, although at times a bit disjointed - nevertheless, still happy to rate it 7/10.
February 27, 2021
Bit of a mixed bag for me, the proverbial, 'Curate's egg'!
I loved the bits in this book about the villages and countryside, and I pretty much enjoyed the history and old tales of strange country folk and unusual goings on from various times in history. I thought the information about Stonehenge very interesting, but was much less in favour of the political rantings.
I was never quite sure what political affiliation the author held, as he seemed equally dismissive of most political persuasions, although his particular dislikes shone through pretty clearly, and I don't think there was ever a Minister of Transport that was held in any kind of esteem. I could pretty much have done without all of the political rants.
I felt it was a shame that he didn't actually make more of his love of rivers and fishing, as he was writing at his best when he veered toward this topic.
My love of the book lies in the fact that this is a road I know well. I driven it countless times, and as I read it could see most of it in my mind's eye. That's an attraction. It's just that I would have preferred more of the history and nostalgia and less of the politics.
I loved the bits in this book about the villages and countryside, and I pretty much enjoyed the history and old tales of strange country folk and unusual goings on from various times in history. I thought the information about Stonehenge very interesting, but was much less in favour of the political rantings.
I was never quite sure what political affiliation the author held, as he seemed equally dismissive of most political persuasions, although his particular dislikes shone through pretty clearly, and I don't think there was ever a Minister of Transport that was held in any kind of esteem. I could pretty much have done without all of the political rants.
I felt it was a shame that he didn't actually make more of his love of rivers and fishing, as he was writing at his best when he veered toward this topic.
My love of the book lies in the fact that this is a road I know well. I driven it countless times, and as I read it could see most of it in my mind's eye. That's an attraction. It's just that I would have preferred more of the history and nostalgia and less of the politics.
August 16, 2022
Using the road as the framework for this book works well in two out of three ways. Firstly it's a travelogue, of course, describing the geography and the monuments and the buildings. It's a history too, and that's interweaved with the landmarks and brought to life with some very interesting potted biographies.
The story of transport: cars, roads, the costs of these, and in particular the politics, are boring and poorly handled though. The little autobiographical details about fishing, and where the author spent the night, and the pubs and cafés he visited are dreary. Bill Bryson does this sort of thing not inconsiderably better... but neither writer can really hold a candle to the psychogeographers and other writers with a real sense of the sense of place. I'm talking Iain Sinclair and Andy Sharp and Gareth E Rees and Paul Devereux, many others of that ilk.
As a native of Wessex in my younger days I enjoyed reading about some old haunts and while the topic of Stonehenge is probably a little overemphasised it is so totemic of the A303 the author had little choice.
It's not a bad book.
The story of transport: cars, roads, the costs of these, and in particular the politics, are boring and poorly handled though. The little autobiographical details about fishing, and where the author spent the night, and the pubs and cafés he visited are dreary. Bill Bryson does this sort of thing not inconsiderably better... but neither writer can really hold a candle to the psychogeographers and other writers with a real sense of the sense of place. I'm talking Iain Sinclair and Andy Sharp and Gareth E Rees and Paul Devereux, many others of that ilk.
As a native of Wessex in my younger days I enjoyed reading about some old haunts and while the topic of Stonehenge is probably a little overemphasised it is so totemic of the A303 the author had little choice.
It's not a bad book.
March 1, 2020
I used to cross the A303 everyday between 1970 and 1975 on my way to school. I travelled it to holidays, football matches and my life once I left home behind me. So I have an emotional attachment to it for many of the reasons Tom Ford highlighted in his introduction. What, therefore, rather disappointed me was the lack of emotion and human feeling in his account of its geography and history.
The book is wonderfully well-researched and I learned a lot but as I read I waited in vain for some evidence of the author's genuine affection for his subject. There seemed to be none.
He sounds as if he can't wait to finish his account so that he can go fishing, which is what he enjoys most. You get the feeling he would have rather have been remembered as the author of 'Fly Fishing' if J. R. Hartley had not got there first.
He admits in the Acknowledgements at the end that he 'likes writing books like this' No Tom, you should love writing books like this.
The book is wonderfully well-researched and I learned a lot but as I read I waited in vain for some evidence of the author's genuine affection for his subject. There seemed to be none.
He sounds as if he can't wait to finish his account so that he can go fishing, which is what he enjoys most. You get the feeling he would have rather have been remembered as the author of 'Fly Fishing' if J. R. Hartley had not got there first.
He admits in the Acknowledgements at the end that he 'likes writing books like this' No Tom, you should love writing books like this.
February 16, 2019
It’s seems a simple concept - write about a well-travelled highway that lots of people will know - but it worked for me. Part travelogue, part social history, part political commentary, but the author’s style is pleasant without being patronising. It weaves around a bit in places but the constancy of the A303 keeps drawing him - and the reader - back on track. A nice, gentle read that imparts a lot of information. Would probably benefit from an update in a year or two...assuming anyone decides to spend some money on the route to the south west.
December 25, 2024
I don't have a car or driving license, and I don't often read non-fiction on any topic if I'm honest, but due to family proximity I've travelled the A303 a fair bit, so I read this, and I don't regret it. Lots of interesting historical trivia and some nice gentle humour, and as for the more serious stuff, nicely balanced. By which I mean, both political parties' are mocked or castigated as appropriate for their road-building failure or broken promises, and both benefits and drawbacks of roads and motoring are covered.
January 31, 2024
Enjoyed the subject as I go up and down the A303 quite a lot. I guess those of us who travel it have our favourite features so a bit disappointed when they weren’t included.Nevertheless, good read , interesting details and observations of things you might not have seen flashing past. I thought the info about road building and government policy over the years detracted from the subject. Still an enjoyable read.
June 27, 2017
2.5 - 3 stars.
i guess i expected something else - more of a travel account (so more of what the author was experiencing), but aside from that the book still left me puzzled. i feel that it was kind of jumping from one topic to the next and back. yes, it does follow the A303, but then it doesn't in between. it does have some interesting info in it though.
i guess i expected something else - more of a travel account (so more of what the author was experiencing), but aside from that the book still left me puzzled. i feel that it was kind of jumping from one topic to the next and back. yes, it does follow the A303, but then it doesn't in between. it does have some interesting info in it though.
July 10, 2024
I picked up this book as I have enjoyed travel writing in the past and thought it would be rather interesting but unfortunately I found the history of some of the places rather dull and uninspiring despite being well-researched. There were moments of interest and some places that I really enjoyed reading about but sadly these were limited to just a few paragraphs in a few chapters.
January 1, 2019
Having spent most of my life living and working along various points on the A303, I thoroughly enjoyed this book as I could relate to the places described. A good balance of historical and current information.
July 31, 2022
As a regular user of the A303 I bought this book to find out more about the road and its environs. Whilst whimsical, the book didn't disappoint. I now need to make a list of some of the places I'd like to visit.
September 4, 2017
Just not what I had hoped/expected. I was going for a more novel-like book. Bit too factual for my liking. Nicely written though!
March 3, 2018
Couldn't get into it. Read the bits about my area.
July 30, 2019
A leisurely and enjoyable ride along the A303, reflecting on landmarks, history and transport policy along the way.
October 16, 2021
Really interesting but the narrative was confusing in places.
February 4, 2022
I read this for research purposes. Who would have believed a road could be so interesting? Lots of local history and personal anecdotes written in an easy to read style.
February 22, 2022
8/10 very enjoyable as I have endured this journey all too often. I found most of the book fascinating and it encouraged me to get out the car and explore the area.
April 18, 2025
Very descriptive. I felt like I was reliving my journeys down the same road with the author, although he filled in a lot of the gaps on the journey that I had inevitably passed by!
October 17, 2016
A roaad I'm familiar with, as are the interminable queues at the wrong time of the year. The book gave me numerous insights into the places and history of numerous places along the road but I felt it was a little disjointed, despite obviously starting at the M# and ending near Honiton. Some intermediate maps at a decent scale might have 'glued' it together a bit better.
March 30, 2024
[15 Feb 2024] A strange book for some, but a gripping account for those of us who have spent years of our lives travelling (or stationary) on this road. I loved it, particularly the background political information, although was there a slight anti-Tory vide? It is well written, engaging and - despite first impression - a really interesting read. I enjoyed the details of the places just off the road, that you are vaguely aware of, but usually rush by. The history of how this track reached national trunk-road importance, bringing millions to the South West, particularly Cornwall makes a fascinating read.
I thought the maps could have been improved - and the Stonehenge section could have been more balanced, yes it is ancient, mystical and of world importance, but failure to move the A303 away from it has resulted and still results in massive delay, causing real suffering and economic consequences to those of us you aren't going on holiday, but nonetheless are required to spend hours creeping past the stones in nose-to-tail queues, while rubber necker's creep slowly by 'getting a good look' - even those you steer with their knees while photographing them on their iPhones. The anger of millions that the government is inactive on this South West bottle neck, while spending billions on the north doesn't really come out as forcefully as it perhaps should.
Also, the contextual societal consequences are not touched on - millions of tourists from the south and southeast flocked to Cornwall following its upgrade, from the 1960s onwards, and hundreds of thousands returned with their furniture in a van - changing the face of Cornwall forever.
A very interesting, informative and well researched book, but beware the story is written from - as the title suggests - a highway to the sun perspective. A road leading west, to campsites, guesthouses, and beaches. However for those of us who live in the southwest the road has, of course, a different meaning.
I thought the maps could have been improved - and the Stonehenge section could have been more balanced, yes it is ancient, mystical and of world importance, but failure to move the A303 away from it has resulted and still results in massive delay, causing real suffering and economic consequences to those of us you aren't going on holiday, but nonetheless are required to spend hours creeping past the stones in nose-to-tail queues, while rubber necker's creep slowly by 'getting a good look' - even those you steer with their knees while photographing them on their iPhones. The anger of millions that the government is inactive on this South West bottle neck, while spending billions on the north doesn't really come out as forcefully as it perhaps should.
Also, the contextual societal consequences are not touched on - millions of tourists from the south and southeast flocked to Cornwall following its upgrade, from the 1960s onwards, and hundreds of thousands returned with their furniture in a van - changing the face of Cornwall forever.
A very interesting, informative and well researched book, but beware the story is written from - as the title suggests - a highway to the sun perspective. A road leading west, to campsites, guesthouses, and beaches. However for those of us who live in the southwest the road has, of course, a different meaning.
March 28, 2015
At times I thought my progress through this book was going to resemble the A303 itself in the words of the author
"Unfinished business and likely to remain so"
In the end my emotional connection with the A303 which I regard as Highway to the County Ground Taunton" was sufficient to complete the book. As the author concludes about the road itself and its patchy, unfinished state
"We British have a soft spot for gallant failure. We admire the gallantry and we feel for the failure."
Rather an apt description of the road that leads to my beloved and regularly gallantly failing cricket team.
Maybe this season. Maybe.
"Unfinished business and likely to remain so"
In the end my emotional connection with the A303 which I regard as Highway to the County Ground Taunton" was sufficient to complete the book. As the author concludes about the road itself and its patchy, unfinished state
"We British have a soft spot for gallant failure. We admire the gallantry and we feel for the failure."
Rather an apt description of the road that leads to my beloved and regularly gallantly failing cricket team.
Maybe this season. Maybe.
Displaying 1 - 30 of 47 reviews