The Dressmakers of London

by Julia Kelly

The author of The Lost English Girl returns with a heartfelt new novel about estranged sisters who inherit their late mother’s dress shop in World War II London.

Isabelle Shelton has always found comfort in the predictable world of her mother’s dressmaking shop, Mrs. Shelton’s Fashions, while her sister Sylvia turned her back on the family years ago to marry a wealthy doctor whom Izzie detests. When their mother dies unexpectedly, the sisters are stunned to find they’ve jointly inherited the family business. Izzie is determined to buy Sylvia out, but when she’s conscripted into the WAAF, she’s forced to seek Sylvia’s help to keep the shop open. Realizing this could be her one chance at reconciliation with her sister, Sylvia is determined to save Mrs. Shelton’s Fashions from closure—and financial ruin.

Through letters, the sisters begin to confront old wounds, new loves, and the weight of family legacy in order to forge new beginnings in this lyrically moving novel.

Genres: Historical Fiction, Fiction, World War II, Historical, Audiobook, British Literature, Fashion

432 pages, Paperback

First published February 18, 2025

About the author

Julia Kelly is the international bestselling author of historical fiction and historical mystery novels about the extraordinary stories of the past. Her books have been translated into 13 languages. In addition to writing, she’s been an Emmy-nominated producer, journalist, marketing professional, and (for one summer) a tea waitress. Julia has called Los Angeles, Iowa, and New York City home. She now lives in London with her husband.

Reviews

[Shantha (ShanthasBookEra) · Rating 4 out of 5]

The Dressmakers of London is a heartwarming and moving novel about two estranged sisters during WWII. When Isabelle and Sylvia's mother passes away unexpectedly, the sisters are forced back together as they inherit her dressmaking business. Challenges such as conscription and clothing restrictions are explored in addition to themes of love, betrayal, class, fashion, and the unbreakable bonds of sisterhood. This is an inspiring story of two women who face adversity, including gender bias in the business world. I loved this fresh and unique take on this period of history and highly recommend it.

[Karren Sandercock · Rating 5 out of 5]

Isabelle works mainly behind the scenes at her mother’s dressmaking shop and in a quite London suburb, in her spare time she enjoys drawing beautiful and stylish dresses and her mum sticks to her tried and true patterns and old fashioned styles she’s used for years.

When her mother suddenly passes away, Izzie assumed she will be rewarded and be left the shop and it’s not the case at all and she and her estranged sister are joint owners and it brings up the feelings she had when Sylvia married and how she and her mother were no longer good enough for her sister and she felt abandoned, hurt and angry.

Sylvia life and marriage hasn’t turned out how she expected, despite being a member of various committees and charities she lonely, her husband is a doctor and a Lieutenant-Commander in the Royal Navy, and she hardly sees him.

Conscription is made mandatory for single and unmarried women and Izzie joins the Women’s Auxiliary Territorial Service and the only two people who can keep the dress shop open are Sylvia and long term seamstress Miss Harris. Leaving London and all she has ever known for Izzie is a huge change, I really liked how she gained confidence and made friends and it's eye opening.

I received a copy of The Dressmakers of London from Edelweiss Plus and Simon & Schuster publishing in exchange for an honest review. An interesting, captivating and delightful narrative by Julia Kelly, the only way the sisters can communicate is by correspondence, at first they dread getting mail and slowly they start to see things differently and especially Izzie learns she shouldn't dwelling on things that happened in the past, consider giving Sylvia a second chance and not hold a grudge.

I found the authors notes at the end fascination and I knew clothes were rationed during the Second World War, but I had no idea to what extent and not only was everyone encouraged to mend and make do, there were restrictions and rules on everything from what types and how much material could be used and down to buttons.

Inspirational and well written and researched historical fiction as it’s finest, the story is as perfect as the stunning cover and if you enjoyed The Wedding Dress Sewing Circle by Jenifer Ryan and I highly recommend reading The Dressmakers of London by Julia Kelly, and I loved it and five stars from me.

[Jeanette Durkin · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a fantastic book! I enjoyed the various settings. A dressmaker's shop in London, Nottingham Court, and a WAAF camp.

The characters are relatable, and I became invested in Izzie and Sylvia's stories. Izzie started out thrilled with the responsibility of running her mother's dress shop. Her passion, though, is sketching and making beautiful clothes. Sylvia left her family behind as she walked toward a bigger and brighter future. A tragedy brings her back home, and she finds pieces of herself that were lost.

It was heartwarming to watch the sisters' relationship unfold. As they wrote letters to each other, they began to see each other in a new light.

I found the author's note very interesting! I never knew about the various clothing rations that occurred during the wars. The idea of owning clothing tailor-made is probably something I'll only dream of. Thanks to this book, I can picture my outfits in my imagination.

I was provided a complimentary copy of the book from Simon and Schuster via Netgalley. All thoughts and opinions are my own.

[Elizabeth · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is a lovely, clean historical fiction novel about two estranged sisters who have to negotiate their way back to being family after their mother dies and leaves her dress shop jointly to both sisters. This comes as a shock to them both, especially Isabelle (Izzie) as she inherited their mother's dressmaking skills and has been at the shop daily for years. The WWII setting is great, and I love all the details about rationed clothing. The author referenced Julie Summers' book on rationed clothing in her author's note, which was fun to see after I read Summers' book on the WI in wartime in November. Once Izzie is conscripted into the WAAF, the narrative includes letters between Sylvia and Izzie. That was fun!

I especially loved Sylvia' storyline. Actually I would have enjoyed the whole novel from Sylvia's perspective. I found her process of growth more interesting by far. I didn't love Izzie as a character, though it was fun to learn about the WAAF through her. And I loved her friendship with Alexandra. I'd love to have a sequel focusing on Alexandra and Sylvia's friend Felicity. They were lovely side characters.

Julia Kelly is a new favorite historical fiction writer. I'm so grateful to have found her because this genre is SO huge. It can be hard to find gentler stories for sensitive souls like myself.

[Rachel · Rating 4 out of 5]

The Dressmakers of London by Julia Kelly is a great WWII-era novel that is all about family and second chances.

Isabelle and Sylvia are estranged sisters, and through multiple events are brought together again to either overcome their pasts and differences or to have them distance themselves again from on another. The concepts of family, love, loss, forgiveness, overcoming obstacles, hope in the midst of adversity, and the complicated world of relationships are brought together beautifully in this HF by Ms. Kelly.

I also liked what the inclusion of the landscapes background of London during the War and their mother’s dress shop added to the character-led novel.

This is the 6th book I have read from this author, I enjoyed it very much, and will continue to read her mysteries and historical fiction.


4/5 stars

Thank you NG and Gallery Books for this wonderful arc and in return I am submitting my unbiased and voluntary review and opinion.

I am posting this review to my GR and Bookbub accounts immediately and will post it to my Amazon, Instagram, and B&N accounts upon publication on 2/18/25.

[Tina Panik · Rating 2 out of 5]

Not the strongest of Kelly’s works; the clothes rationing is interesting, but the adolescent tone of the sister’s relationship is tedious.

[Vlorini · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved this book so much. Julia Kelly has a wonderful way with her characters and settings. Obviously there was a lot of research into this subject, but she turned it into a delightful story of two sisters, and their struggles during WW2 in England. Thanks to the publisher and NetGalley for allowing me to read this ARC.

[Taury · Rating 4 out of 5]

The Dressmakers of London by Julia Kelly is a Historical Fiction novel during WW2. Written on themes of sisters, healing, forgiveness and family. When the Matriarch dies she leaves the dress shop to both girls. As WW2 looms closer one goes to assist and the estranged sister is left to bring life back into the shop.

[Deacon Tom (Feeling Better) · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good writing but the plot gets lost at times

[Judy Collins · Rating 5 out of 5]

Julia Kelly (favorite author) returns following The Lost English Girl with THE DRESSMAKERS OF LONDON —a heartfelt, moving novel of two estranged sisters who inherit their late mother’s dressmaking shop in London during WWII.

Little do they know, this inheritance will lead them on a journey of discovery, love, and forgiveness, with lots of unexpected twists and turns.

About...

The 1940s, Great Britain, and Izzie, enjoys the backroom of her mother's dressmaking shop. After her father's tragic accident, her mother purchased the shop to support herself and the girls.

Sylvia left their mom and sister to marry a wealthy and sophisticated man. When the mom dies, Izzie is upset to discover her mom left the shop to both the girls.

This stirs up old resentments and hurt feelings, but it also reignites the unbreakable bond between the two sisters as they begin writing letters to one another.

Then the conscription forces Izzie to join the Auxiliary Territorial Service in another part of the country. In a testament to their resilience, Sylvia steps up to save the shop from ruin.

My thoughts...

THE DRESSMAKERS OF LONDON is a beautifully written story of two sisters during the war and all its many restrictions during this era. The letters between the two sisters allowed readers to hear their innermost thoughts.

Meticulously researched, Kelly does an outstanding job portraying the era and the familial struggles in the face of adversity.

A compelling, captivating, and fascinating story of fashion, family, love, forgiveness, sisterhood, and friendship with all things dressmaking and fashion.

I thoroughly enjoyed the Author's Note regarding the clothing rationing during WWII and its effect on women. The Clothes Rationing Order went into effect on June 1, 1941. From restrictions, rationing, and coupons. In 1942 the rules changed again with the introduction of the Board of Trade's Civilian Clothing Order, or CC41. This order not only imposed further restrictions on clothing design but also influenced the characters' lives and the plot of the novel.

Recs...

For fans of the author and those who enjoy stories of sisters, family, WWII and historical fiction.

Thanks to Gallery Books and NetGalley for an advanced review copy in exchange for an honest review.

blog review posted @
JudithDCollins.com
@JudithDCollins | #JDCMustReadBooks
My Rationg: 4.5 Stars
Pub Date: Feb 18, 2025
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[Donna · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved everything about this well-researched and heartwarming World War II story! At the heart of the story are two estranged sisters, who are brought together again at the unexpected death of their mother. Sylvia, the eldest, had left years ago when she married what she thought was the perfect man. Isabella ((Izzy) remained at home and became immersed in learning everything she could about designing and sewing for her mother's dress shop. Circumstances complicated by the war, rationing and conscription, as well as their desire to save the dress shop created by their mother bring the sisters closer together. It was fascinating to read of the conscription of women in England, and their various fields of training, the rationing that affected all areas of life, and the dedication of all British citizens to winning the War. Julia Kelly has written a fascinating book, with memorable characters that tell a story of love, hope, and the determination of two sisters to rediscover the bond they share, when their lives are changed by the war and their own personal tragedies. The author's notes at the end are quite informative to the history behind the story. Thank you to the author, publisher and Netgalley for my advance copy. The opinions of this review are my own.

[Amanda Bennett at passionforprose · Rating 4 out of 5]

When their mother unexpectedly passes away, sisters Isabelle and Sylvia Shelton are shocked to learn that the beloved family dressmaking shop has been left to both of them. For Isabelle—“Izzie”—the news is a betrayal. She’s the one who stayed, worked beside their mother day in and day out, and kept the shop running through hardship. Sylvia, on the other hand, left years ago to marry a prominent society doctor, abandoning the life she once knew.

Izzie refuses to accept Sylvia’s offer to hand over her share of the shop and makes plans to buy her sister out—until the war intervenes. Conscripted into the Women’s Auxiliary Air Force, Izzie has no choice but to ask Sylvia for help keeping the shop open during her service.

As the sisters exchange letters, what starts as strictly business gradually becomes something deeper. Through fabric scraps, ration books, and heartfelt words, old wounds are reopened—and perhaps, finally, healed. Amidst air raids, shortages, and the constant pulse of uncertainty, Sylvia finds a renewed purpose, and Izzie rediscovers hope.

Set on the home front during WWII, The Dressmakers of London is a moving tale of sisterhood, resilience, and the timeless artistry of dressmaking. It’s a tender reminder that in a world at war, love and craftsmanship can still hold things—and people—together.

http://www.instagram.com/passionforprose

[Terry · Rating 4 out of 5]

Good story! After the unexpected death of their mother, two estranged sisters discover that they have inherited their mothers dress shop during the war in London, 1942. While Izzy, has been her mother’s shadow and fully embedded in the shop, her older sister, Sylvia, couldn’t wait to leave and get married. She has moved “up” in society, and doesn’t want anything to do with the shop or her family. The book shows how the sisters finally find their way back to each other.

[isabel · Rating 4 out of 5]

⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Sometimes I really don’t need a book to be a 5-star. Sometimes a good old 4-star is perfectly what I need. (Lowkey i think i need to sort of adjust my rating system cuz i feel like i rate everything too highly but that’s another thing altogether)

Anyway there was nothing wrong with this book. It was absolutely amazing. Now, every time i read a book containing two sisters, I feel like I always comment on how much I love a book surrounding the mysterious biological bond that is sisterhood. Maybe because i wish i had a sister of my own, or maybe because reading about two people who grew up together and know each other better than they know themselves is just plain stimulating.

I loved the plot of this story. It was so realistic and believable. Everything that happened made sense in a real-world context and there’s something so refreshing about the little joys and grievances that make up domestic drama. However, this story was so much more than a domiciliary saga, but it is a tale of two strong women who find their way back to each other amidst war, strife, economical unrest. I thought it was so interesting that posh, high-class London was included in this story. Although the things that happened to Sylvia were genuinely scandalous, her calm and collected manner of dealing with things painted the events in a very different light. I like reading drama about rich people, so naturally I enjoyed the scenes about Lady Nolan’s committee. I thought the side characters were done well too, especially Lady Winman, William, and Miss Reid! Miss Reid was really cool haha. I loved the bits in the workshop when they were talking about sewing and dressmaking.

[Linda S. · Rating 5 out of 5]

The Dressmakers of London tells the story of sisters Izzie and Sylvia. Izzie works at her mother's bespoke dress shop, Mrs. Shelton's Fashions, while her sister Sylvia is estranged from the family since her marriage. After their mother's sudden death, the girls learn that they have both been left the dress shop as the mother's will says that both woman may need the shop as much as she had. To complicate matters, Izzie, as an unmarried woman, is conscripted by the military. Sylvia steps in to keep the shop running, to the horror of her snobby husband. This is a great story of family as well as forgiveness and second chances, all tied up with the fashion industry in WWII-era London. The main characters and supporting characters are very likeable. I loved it and learned so much about rationing and the home front jobs women were given to free up the men to go about the business of winning the war against the Nazis. Thank you to NetGalley and the publisher for an ARC of this novel in exchange for an honest review.

[Sarah S. · Rating 5 out of 5]

Another Goodreads win, and boy am I glad I won this book. It is a story about two estranged sisters who have to fight the odds and find common ground with the dress shop that their mother left them, all while WWII is taking place. I loved how both Izzie and Sylvia worked on themselves to find common ground and learn how to be true sisters again. I laughed and I cried. If you like the sound of all that, do yourself a favor and read this.

[Bethanie Brosnaham · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.5 Beautiful story about two sisters

[Mariam Salahudeen · Rating 3 out of 5]

I did like the story, but I made the assumption based on the title that this story was about the Dressmakers who had to power through tough times during World War 2.
But the story focuses more on the estranged relationship between the two sisters. Their love lives are also highlighted through the story. I wish the story gave more light to the dressmaking situation at that time and less of the love story. One love story had me baffled at how it reached its conclusion.

[A. Housewife · Rating 4 out of 5]

Rounded up. I wanted the conflict between sisters to be more complex and more recalcitrant.
That aside, I love the historical part about clothing rationing and how it affected the women of Britain in the war.

[Cara · Rating 4 out of 5]

What a delightful transport back in time to 1940s London! I enjoyed the glimpse into the life of a small business struggling to survive during the war and cheered on its inventiveness and ingenuity. I would have liked one of the main characters to be a bit more developed, but the overarching arc between the sisters is satisfying. Learning more about the Women's Auxiliary Air Force and barrage balloons in particular was not what I expected when I first started reading, but it was an interesting component. The author's note at the end is not to be missed! This is an enjoyable book to read while nestled in a comfy chair with a hot cup of tea :)

Thanks to the publisher and Netgalley for providing an advanced copy in exchange for my honest review.

[Diane · Rating 4 out of 5]

A very touching, enchanting story of two sisters in London during WWII. Well written, gripping and emotional. I’ll definitely look for more from this author.

[Colleen Parker · Rating 5 out of 5]

4.5 rounded up to five stars. This is a sweet book but don’t let the word sweet deter you from reading this. It is less of a historical fiction story and much more a relationship tale. While it does take place in the UK during World War II, the war is more a location than an event. There are no bombs, mass casualties, or other deep war scars but rather it is a story of a challenging relationship between two sisters after the mother passes on and leaves her dressmaking shop to both women. After years of estrangement, the women have to work together to keep the dress shop running and successful in the wake of clothe rationing during the war. It is also a story of British class society and snobbery as the older sister navigates between her working class upbringing and her marriage into the upper class of society. Maybe because I have a relationship with two sisters, or maybe because I just needed a good palate cleanser after reading several heavy books, but I found the book to be soothing in a way that only a book about human relationships can be. An enjoyable read.

[VanessA · Rating 2 out of 5]

Based on the high ratings this received before being released I was interested in reading. There’s not too much of a history lesson in this book. The author’s notes at the end were the most informative. The overall story just didn’t do it for me.

[Lyndsie · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved every moment of this book! Wonderful characters and an unexpected plot. Even though there’s a little romance, it’s mostly a story of the love between sisters. I love all of Julia Kelly’s books, but this one is going near the top of favorites.

[Sue Seligman · Rating 5 out of 5]

As many of my book friends and family members know, I have been reading Julia Kelly’s historical fiction novels, as well as her more recent historical mystery books, for years. Most of her books are set in England before, during and after World War II, and all depict various ways that women contributed to the life styles, challenges, and triumphs prevalent during these turbulent years. The Dressmakers of London has been on my radar since Julia Kelly started posting about it prior to publication, and believe me, she does not disappoint!
As a devoted reader of historical fiction novels set during the years leading up to, during, and after World War II, I have found that there is always something new to learn about these tumultuous times. Whether a book is set within the actual center of the war, or in occupied areas, or in places affected by economic and human sacrifices resulting from wartime, there is always something new to learn. Julia Kelly and many other authors are experts at describing the challenges faced by women during these times; stories which until recently had been neglected or unknown by writers of the past. Julia Kelly’s books are primarily set in England, and there is always something special within each story that has intrigued me and piqued my interest to learn more.
The Dressmakers of London is set in a family owned dressmakers shop operated by the family matriarch and her daughter Izzie. Mrs. Sheldon’s Fashions has always been somewhat of a refuge for Izzie as she and her mother have created a beacon for local women who could always count on them for the perfect outfit. Izzie’s older sister, Sylvia, however, had escaped the lifestyle of hard work and memories of the death of her father as she met and married a wealthy man and moved as far away from her family as she could. Suddenly, Mrs. Shelton passes away, and the estranged sisters discover that she has left the store to both of them, with the caveat that “I hope that as it has for me, the shop will take care of them when they need it most.” Izzie is shocked and angered by this unexpected turn of events, while Sylvia, struggling with the challenges within her own life, is determined to make the best of a bad situation. As the sisters embark on a new reality forced upon them by their deceased mother, they are faced with the challenges of keeping the store afloat, complying with new clothing rules and restrictions while satisfying the expectations of their customers and worrying about the real life difficulties of wartime.
This book has everything that I love in a novel: descriptive settings, impeccable research, interesting and unique subject matter, and above all, characters who simply dive off the pages and into the heart of the readers. An added bonus in this book is the use of letter writing within the pages. I’ve always enjoyed epistolary novels, and while this book is not totally written through letters, its occasional appearance adds an extra flavor to the story. Finally, this novel has all the “feels” and readers who enjoy women’s stories, triumphs and tragedies, a bit of romance, family strife, sisterhood..this book is for you! And the cover is gorgeous! Julia Kelly has done it again!

[Kathy Paschke · Rating 3 out of 5]

The Dressmakers of London was a pleasant and easy read. It tells the story of two sisters running a dress shop in London during World War II. I especially enjoyed learning about the fascinating history of fashion under rationing, where England set strict rules—for example, no more than five buttons on a dress, no decorative use of pleats or pockets, and no silk, since silk was imported from Japan. The dressmakers became resourceful, taking on mending jobs and creating clothes from whatever their clients could find—curtains, bedsheets, and more.

Another interesting side story involved one of the sisters, Isabelle, who was conscripted into the WAAF, the Women’s Auxiliary Air Force.

Most of the book, however, focused on the fraught relationship between the sisters, along with family dynamics and love stories. Personally, I would have preferred more emphasis on London’s history during the war.

That being said, it was a quick and breezy read—an enjoyable choice as I prepare for my upcoming trip to London.

[Mariana · Rating 5 out of 5]

"The Dressmakers of London" is such a captivating story about grief, forgiveness, and love. It centers on two sisters who have drifted apart and aren’t really in each other’s lives anymore. When their mother passes away and leaves the family business to both of them, things start to get messy.
At first, I really liked Izzie and didn’t get why Sylvia acted the way she did. But as I kept reading, my feelings started to change. I found Izzie kind of immature and unfair to Sylvia for most of the book, which really annoyed me. Still, I came to understand her a bit, and that didn’t stop me from wanting to read on.
The story is interesting and really well done; it pulls you in, making you feel connected to the characters. I loved how it mixes historical fiction with fashion and family drama. I genuinely enjoyed this book, and it’s clear that Julie Kelly is a fantastic historical fiction writer. I can’t wait to dive into more of her books!

[Shannon · Rating 4 out of 5]

Two estranged sisters find love, independence and reconciliation during WWII when they jointly inherit their dead mother's dress shop. I really, really enjoyed this latest from fav author, Julia Kelly. I didn't know much about the fashion implications for women during the war and loved seeing the sisters fight for their independence as business owners and designers while also helping to serve the cause during WWII. Great on audio and perfect for fans of authors like Kristen Harmel or Kristen Hannah. Many thanks to NetGalley and the publisher for an early digital copy and @simon.audio for a complimentary ALC in exchange for my honest review!

CW: infidelity

[Donna · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was an enjoyable book for me. I can do some sewing, but nothing like presented in here. I would never think of going to a dressmaker to get something fitted for me. This is the story of Isabelle and Sylvia Shelton. Daughters of Maggie Shelton who started a dress shop in London to support them after their father died. The sisters became estranged and then when Mom died, she left the shop to both of them.

I have to admit that I did get a bit tired of how the sisters treated each other, but as the book went on and they got to know each other (from a distance), I really enjoyed it much more.

[Val · Rating 4 out of 5]

My first book of 2026! A warm tale of two sisters’
inheritance of their mother’s humble dress shop. They are very different from one another, their ambitions are different and they are essentially estranged at the time of the inheritance. The story revolves around their ups and downs during World War 2 as they try to make their business work. Some very interesting themes and relationships including clothing rationing during the war. There were some portions of the book that dragged a bit but overall an enjoyable read.