City of Silk

by Glennis Virgo

'My favourite kind of historical fiction ... So beautifully atmospheric ... I loved this book and can't wait to read more from Glennis Virgo' - Frances Quinn, author of That Bonesetter Woman

Bologna, 1575.

A talented seamstress

A powerful merchant



A fierce battle of wills


Bologna, 1575. A talented seamstress. A powerful merchant. A fierce battle of wills.



Elena Morandi has gained a fragile foothold in a master tailor's workshop, despite the profession being barred to women. But then Antonio della Fontana, a powerful man from her past, crosses her path and threatens everything she has built. Fontana has every corner of the city in his pocket and Elena knows all too well of his past abuses. Driven to fight for justice, she hatches a daring plan to get retribution for herself, a lost friend and his other victims.



The sights, sounds and textures of Renaissance Italy are brought to vivid life in this breathtaking historical fiction debut.

'I LOVED this. The characters sing. Bravo' - Sara Sheridan, author of The Fair Botanists

Genres: Historical Fiction, Historical, Novels, Book Club, 16th Century, Italy, Fiction

290 pages, Kindle Edition

Published November 21, 2024

Reviews

[ABCme · Rating 4 out of 5]

Bologna, Italy 1575, a place of well dressed citizens and busy workrooms, mainly occupied by men. Women won't make it beyond seamstress.
But of course there's always one who perseveres. Meet Elena on her way to the top.
City of Silk is fast paced historical fiction at its best. Set in artistic surroundings, filled with interesting and well developed characters, intrigue and politics, but most of all strong women and comradery. Pageturner!

Thank you Netgalley and Allison&Busby for the ARC.

[Tahera · Rating 4 out of 5]

In her debut novel, City of Silk, the author Glennis Virgo literally took me on a tour of 16th century Bologna, Italy, a city which was known for its silk production and where being a tailor was a sought after profession but still considered strictly a man's job. I enjoyed the descriptions of the sights and sounds of the city and also the details about the different methods of sewing. It was interesting to see how, in the absence of a sewing machine, every suit and dress was stitched by hand. While reading the book, I also kept checking photographs of the city and the major landmarks mentioned online to help me visualise the setting better.

My thanks to NetGalley, the publisher Allison & Busby and the author for the digital ARC of the book. I have recently been auto-approved by the publisher so a big thank you to them!

Rating: 🌟🌟🌟🌟

[Jemima Pett · Rating 5 out of 5]

At first glance, City of Silk has much in common with The Instrumentalist, published in the summer. A talented girl, brought up in the harsh environment of an Italian orphanage, suffers sexual abuse before escaping and finding a way to fulfill her calling.

Apart from the excellence of both, they are completely different.

In City of Silk, Ms Virgo introduces us to the city of Bologna in 1575 through the eyes of Elena, who is desperately trying not to be married off to a rich and powerful abuser. All she wants is to be a tailor like her father, and she knows her sewing is up to it. Luckily she falls in with a widow, a seamstress for women’s clothing. But no, Elena wants to tailor. Women in tailoring is not only unheard of, the Guild prevent it.

We learn more about this wonderful character in flashbacks, before the story moves on to one of subterfuge, danger and suspense.

The characters are beautifully drawn, some based on real artists, others on portraits of artisans in London’s National Portrait Gallery. The research feels as sound as one can make it. I felt I’d been to Bologna and walked its streets. The phrasing is so beautiful it sometimes made me pause, but that helped to pace me through what is a slick and roller-coaster narrative. This book deserves taking your time over.

I’m finding it difficult to say how much I loved this book, which, btw, is not suitable for under 14s. The sights, the sounds, the reality of trade in a medieval city, and the utter invisibility of women… It’s a truly wonderful piece of literature.

[Linda Hill · Rating 5 out of 5]

City of Silk is a brilliant story, packed with authentic detail, fantastic characters and a wonderful plot. It’s hard to believe this is a debut novel and I have a feeling Glennis Virgo is going to be a future force to be reckoned with. This immersive and gripping story is just fabulous. My full thoughts are on the My Weekly website.

[Libby · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was a difficult read, many of the topics carried a huge weight of emotion and pain. But it was wonderfully executed, truly showing an understanding of the struggles depicted, despite the differences in time and related customs.


Thank you NetGalley for the arc in exchange for an honest review.

[Suzanne · Rating 3 out of 5]

it was a fun read. A bit predictable but sometimes that's just what you need. Also it would have been better if I hadn't left it out in the rain so the last 100 pages or so were slightly challenging 😂

[Demi · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.75/5 ⭐️

[Susan Dietz · Rating 3 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this story. I thought the characters and setting were wonderful. It's very timely, but still makes sense in the historical setting. It has many relatable elements like trying to land your dream job, found family, and things as serious as the dangers marginalized populations face on the daily. It's full of grit, determination, compassion, and it's ultimately very uplifting.

[Marie · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.5. It took me a while to get into it but it's a great story with endearing characters and a fascinating setting.

[Leah Mowery · Rating 2 out of 5]

I am surprised by all these raving reviews. The writing was fine; however I found the story lacking. Even the “take down” was incredibly anticlimactic. I would not recommend it to others.

[J. · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book gives a woman in 16th century Italy the chance to enact her revenge fantasy on the man who victimised her and other orphans. And there is certainly an wishful quality, but it’s grounded by the material history demonstrated through Elena’s ambitions to become a tailor. The cast of characters were plucky and imperfect and satisfying to spend time with. One thing that slightly bothered me throughout the book, however, was WHY Elena was so determined to become a tailor when being a dressmaker was a much more accessible livelihood for her—she has an emotional connection to tailoring, since it was her late father’s profession, but I guess I just wasn’t 100% convinced. All in all, an enjoyable read despite the sobering topic of sexual assault.
I received a free copy from NetGalley in return for an honest review.

[Erin Sparkes · Rating 4 out of 5]

1500’s Bologna, Elena is a seamstress dreaming of being a tailor. But woman are not allowed to be tailors. Raised in a Baraccano orphanage she has already come a long way. When an unwanted marriage is imminent she strikes out on her own to chase her dream and her independence. But a man who left his mark on her past now threatens her future.
I adore imperfect characters, and Elena is not perfect, but she is compelling and tenacious and I loved reading her story. From the first line I was ensnared and needed to know how the woman of the city were going to handle their problem.
Thank you to Allison and Busby and Netgalley for letting me review Glennis Virgo’s debut novel City Of Silk

[Ashly · Rating 3 out of 5]

This historical fiction novel takes place in the 1500’s. I thought the book was a good story about pursuing your dreams. If you like sewing, i found it to be very accurate. The author did a beautiful job with the characters. Fontana quickly turned into my favorite book villain.

[Books By Your Bedside · Rating 4 out of 5]

4-4.5 stars

Thanks you to NetGalley and Allison & Busby for the advanced proof of this title in return for an honest review.

First things first, this is a beautiful cover!

I love historical fiction, especially set around the 1500s, and especially set in Italy. So this was a triple whammy. I also love books where a strong woman stands up to men during a time where women had to sit down and be quiet.

I also love that the author if over 50. I don't wish to out her but it does say in her bio that she won the "Inaugural Debut Writers Over 50 Award" so I think I'm safe. We put so much pressure on people achieving everything in their 20s and 30s, but just because you get to a certain age doesn't mean you can't discover or develop a new talent.

I have been to a few places in Italy - Rome, Pompeii, Lake Garda etc - but never Bologna, and it looks and sounds gorgeous. And whilst I know Glennis has written about 1500s Bologna, she still seems to have captured the very heart of what I expect it to be like now. This passion, this creativity that runs through Italy. She's made it sound so atmospheric that you can do nothing but imagine yourself in the streets. Which is impressive considering I've not been there. It's easy to conjure up images of somewhere you've been, but to conjure up a blank canvas and see it's very soul? That's talent.

It's fast paced but doesn't feel rushed. You get to spend time with the characters and in the location without feeling bored or like it's too slow. It's mostly set in the characters' present time, but there are some flashbacks that help explain Elena's issues with Antonio della Fontana.

It reminded me of some books I have also recently read, including:

The Instrumentalist by Harriet Constable

A Poisoner's Tale by Cathryn Kemp

The Book of Secrets by Anna Mazzola

It's not a book for younger readers. There are some quite uncomfortable moments that would not be appropriate. But apart from them, I think it's got something to appeal to everyone.

On the surface it's about a woman who wants to be a tailor. It's about ambition and gender inequality. But it's also about friendships and family - blood and chosen - hardships, abuse, power imbalance, desire, love. It had the potential to be quite heavy and yes there are some bits that are heavier than others, buts you have to read a bit closer to fully appreciate the meaning, but overall it doesn't feel like walking through mud. It's fast paced and quick to read, with fantastically written (if not always nice) characters, interesting plot, great atmosphere, and just really enjoyable storytelling.

My one issue - it's not big enough to say it's a negative I don't think, but I have to be honest. I'm not entirely sure why Elena was so hell-bent on becoming a tailor. I know there's an historical link with her father, but she could have become a seamstress or dressmaker which was more accepting of her gender. So it's not a negative in the sense that it spoiled the enjoyment of the book or anything. It was just this little niggle I had that kept poking me.

This is Glennis' debut novel and I sure hope it's not going to be her only book. I think she's got real potential in the historical genre. It's is a moving and very enjoyable story. I finished it in a little over a day as it was so inviting.

[Heidi Malagisi · Rating 4 out of 5]

When we think about the period known as the Renaissance, we often think about Italy and the artists like painters and sculptors. However, other craftsmen made Italy their home. Take, for example, tailors and seamstresses. These skilled craftsmen and women can create art you can walk in with their hands. However, there are gender barriers between tailors and seamstresses in that only men can be tailors and only women can be seamstresses. One orphan girl from Bologna not only challenges what it means to be a woman tailor but also challenges one of the wealthiest merchants in the entire city who has a dark connection to her past. This is the premise for Glennis Virgo’s debut novel, “City of Silk.”

I want to thank Allison & Busby and Net Galley for sending me a copy of this novel. I know we are not supposed to judge a book by its cover, but this cover is really why I wanted to read more about it. The description and knowing that it was a debut were also appealing factors as I wanted to see what a new author would do with 16th-century Italy and its complex nature.

We begin with the orphanage of Santa Maria del Baraccano where we find out that our protagonist is a young girl whose parents, a tailor and a seamstress, both died. The girl, Eleana Morandi, was raised in the orphanage, but something happened and she ran away. She would eventually work at the Palazzo of Signora Ruffo, a widowed seamstress who runs a successful business. Elena works as an assistant to Signora Ruffo alongside a girl named Sophia, a former slave. It is a happy life for Elena, until one day, Signora Ruffo arranges a marriage for Elena with Signor Martelli. Elena is not a fan of this idea so she does what stereotypical teenagers do, she runs away from home again.

Elena runs to the workshop of the tailor Maestro Francesco Rondinelli, but he is reluctant to take Elena on as women are not accepted as tailors in the guild, but he allows her to help out in other ways around the workshop. One day, a Signor Antonio della Fontana comes into the workshop and asks for a summer wardrobe. Fontana is not some stranger to Elena as she knows him from her life in the orphanage, but he is not the benevolent merchant that everyone believes him to be. Elena fights not only for the right to become a female tailor but for her friend Laura and the other girls who were traumatized by Fontana. Virgo has created a colorful cast of characters filled with the traumas that they have to deal with in such a short book. My only critique is that as someone who is not as familiar with Italian terms or the locations in 16th-century Bologna, I wish there was a map and a glossary to help the readers picture the world a bit better.

Overall, I found this a rather enjoyable debut full of heart and a cast who care for each other as well as their respective crafts. It shows a different side of Renaissance Italy and once I started reading, I did not want to stop. I am looking forward to seeing what type of story Virgo will tell next. If you want a novel that focuses on a different aspect of the Italian Renaissance, I would recommend you read, “City of Silk” by Glennis Virgo.

[Whatithinkaboutthisbook · Rating 4 out of 5]

City of Silk by Glennis Virgo

This is a historical fiction novel set in Bologna in the 1500’s. Elena is orphaned at 10, when her parents succumb to illness and she is raised in the Baraccano Orphanage. As the daughter of a tailor she possesses dreams of following in her father’s footsteps, a career not allowed to women. She pursues the only path available to her, that of a seamstress. She is not satisfied, and convinces Francesco Rondinelli to take her on as an apprentice tailor. Her world is turned upside down again when the rich, corrupt and evil Antonio della Fontana re-enters her life. He terrorized the girls in the orphanage and is seemingly untouchable as he brags about his proclivities. Elana is filled with rage and is determined to seek justice.

This is such a great book. I read it so fast as couldn’t put it down, especially once Elena started hatching her plan for revenge. Although set in the 1500’s there are so many archetypical female characters in this novel. The women are strong, fearless and brave and not willing to accept the life that they are told is their allotment as women.

Signora Ruffo was one of my favorite characters. She is open minded and non-judgemental, looking past the dictates of society into the character of the person. She is a protector of women, looking out for women who are forced to prostitute themselves to survive, saving Sofia from slavery and young women from the orphanage. She is well respected by men, first because she is a widow and then because she deserves it. In a time when women’s only choices are marriage or limited employment the defiance of the main female characters is empowering.

This is a story about friendship and acceptance - accepting those who are not considered acceptable. Sofia, a black woman; Elana, a female tailor; and Francesco and GiorgioI, tow men in love. I love how Elena works her way into the hearts of the men in the tailor shop through her skills and her perseverance. They become a found community, supporting each other. The characters are all so loveable. I felt drawn into the novel and felt connected to their experiences. Although Elana is the main character, you love all of the surrounding cast.

Fontana is a great villain. He is so detestable. His swagger and bragging of his conquests makes you grit your teeth/.

The setting in Bologna is magnificent. I have been to Bologna once, I could envision the piazza’s, canals and churches. Such a magnificent backdrop to the story and the inclusion of all the historical celebrations was magnificent.

If you have any interest in dressmaking and tailoring the descriptions of stitching and fabric is a story on its own. It was fascinating how each individual piece such as a sleeve is made. The craftsmanship and pride in the individual stitches and choices of materials was so interesting.

Thanks to Netgalley for providing a free copy for an honest review.

[Juliet Bookliterati · Rating 4 out of 5]

1

My Review
Back in my favourite Era and Country, The City of Silk is the debut book from Glennis Virgo. Set in Bologna, the afore mentioned City of Silk, with Mulberry trees outside the city gates, and a trade in taloring and seamstresses this is the story of Elena, the daughter of a tailor. After the death of her parents she is sent to the Baraccano Orphanage, a place where young girls are at the mercy of it’s patron Antonio della Fontana, before being apprentice to a seamstress. Elena has higher dreams, but women are not offered the same chances as men, or is there another way.

City of Silk is Elana’s story, and it is through her eyes and experiences that we learn about life in sixteenth century Bologna. She is a wonderful heroine, facing adversity yet always having a positive outlook, even if that makes for some bold decisions. Not willing to be a wife Elena wants to apprentice to a tailor like her father, but women in the sixteenth century are not accepted in what is seen as a male industry. Through Elena we see the difficulties of women in this period, women expected to get married and have children, are accused of being prostitutes if they are out after dusk, and are second class citizens. As a character I admired her determination, her drive for trying to get around these constrictions put on her by society. I did like the fact that Glennis Virgo did show Elena’s faults her own prejudices that cause her problems.

What I really enjoyed about City of Silk was the historical detail that really set the social and cultural scenes of the period. I loved the descriptions of the festivals both the religious, at Easter and Christmas, and the more social festivals like ‘Porchetta” that is a feast dedcated to the pig. Glennis Virgo captures the vibrant colours, the sights, the sounds and joie de vivre of these events, how importand they were to the citizens and the positive effect they had on citizens. My only complaint is that there were two events in the book, that I thought were importane, were just suddenly announced. I found myself flipping back, worried that I had missed something, I found these omissions jarred me a little bit, stopped the flow for me. Glennis Virgo doesn’t shy away from the prejudices and patriarchy society, where wealthy men got away with abuse, where homosexuals could be beaten to near death and the racism towards a girl of colour.

Overall I thoroughly enjoyed City of Silk, the book as sumptous as the material referenced in the title. Elena was a wonderful heroine, ambitious and full of life, wanting more from life than what was on offer. Full of historical detail, a fasciating supporting cast and and engaging plot, this is a stunning debut and I can’t wait to read what Glennis Virago writes next.

[Katie · Rating 4 out of 5]

Thank you to NetGalley and to the publisher Allison & Busby for the digital ARC, it has not affected my honest review. 

TW: sexual assault, racism, slavery, references to rape, homophobia, religion 

Bologna, 1575. Having been raised at the Baraccano orphanage for girls, Elena Morandi has made something of herself thanks to her talents in embroidery and sewing. She wants nothing more than to be a tailor but this is a profession that women are banned from. Elena’s life is shattered when she’s told that a marriage has been arranged for her, so she takes to the streets- seeking her fortune in the world outside to avoid this future. With luck and her incredible skill Elena manages to gain a role in the workshop of a master tailor with his own damning secrets. However, when Antonio della Fontana, the incredibly wealthy benefactor of the Baraccano who abuses many of the girls for his own gain, comes to the tailor’s, Elena soon plots for revenge and justice against him in remembrance of a lost friend, for herself and for those who are still threatened and victims of his terrible abuse. Aided by Sofia, a woman brought to Italy as a slave, the legendary artist family of the Carracis and Fontana’s own daughter, Elena goes up against a man who has until now been entirely untouchable. 

This is an incredibly detailed and richly woven story of justice and revenge set in Renaissance Italy during a time when women had little rights and certain men had all the control. Elena is a powerful main character, for all that she has been through she’s still incredibly kind and so deeply talented that everyone (whether they like it or not) can see it. I liked Elena’s relationships with the other characters a lot, particularly the older male tailor who takes a chance on her and how she comes to view him when she finds out his hidden secrets. This book makes no effort to hide the raw truth of the disgraceful things that people went through in this era, it focuses particularly on the treatment of slaves, women and LGBTQIA+ people by the upper classes and the lack of accountability given to rich and powerful men. The community that Elena builds for herself is beautifully written, whether it’s her fellow tailors, Sofia and the girls back in her old home or the famous Carraci family of artists, and I loved how they all worked together to destroy della Fontana. The Italian Renaissance is my favourite era of history and this book’s descriptions are gorgeous, you feel as if you’re walking the streets of Bologna alongside Elena and I was truly invested in her story. 

[Elise · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.75 stars

I finally got around to reading City of Silk. I initially received this as an ARC from NetGalley, but the formatting of the PDF made it unreadable on my eReader, so I didn’t end up reading it until after it was published. Thanks to the publisher, Allison & Busby, for providing the opportunity to read an early copy, even though I ultimately used the finished version.

If you’re considering reading this, I’d recommend looking up trigger warnings beforehand. The book turned out to be darker than I anticipated. While the themes were necessary for the story, they could be difficult for readers who’ve recently dealt with similar sensitive topics.

The setting was one of the book’s strong points. The religious and cultural atmosphere of Bologna felt authentic and well-researched, suiting the time period perfectly. There were moments when I wasn’t sure how the story would maintain its momentum, but Virgo managed to keep the narrative flowing smoothly.

I also appreciated the depth of the themes and Virgo’s bravery in tackling difficult topics. This wasn’t just a straightforward historical fiction about a seamstress, the story was thought-provoking. Elena, the protagonist, was a flawed character, which made her more relatable and realistic. Other characters often called her out for being self-centered, which I appreciated, as it showed her need for growth. However, even when she was aware of her behavior, she didn’t always change it, which was occasionally frustrating. For example, when a character changes their name during the story, Elena refuses to use their new name despite knowing it would mean a lot to them. It’s realistic, but it shows she still has much to learn about respect and empathy.

That said, Elena’s age was a source of confusion for me. Based on the timeline, I thought she was around 13 or 14, but some of her reasoning and actions felt too mature for someone that young. Also, the epilogue places a significant responsibility on her that felt unrealistic for someone so young. It’s possible I missed her exact age being mentioned, but I hope she was meant to be at least 17.

Where the book struggled most for me was in its believability. The idea of a woman becoming a tailor’s apprentice during that time seemed highly unlikely, and the ending felt a little too neatly resolved. While I appreciated the feminist undertones, they sometimes felt too modern for the historical context, which is just a shame.

[Samantha · Rating 3 out of 5]

Thank you NetGalley and Allison & Busby for this arc of City of Silk by Glennis Virgo!

I thought this book was a fast paced and engaging read, one that I would definitely recommend to people who enjoy historical fiction. This book is set in the 16th century in Bologna. I'm always one to enjoy stories set in that time period and I think others like me will find City of Silk to be a good choice in that regard. Also the way Bologna is described is absolutely incredible. It makes this book so immersive! The setting is probably one of my favorite aspects for that reason, it was really well done. I felt the historical details, the descriptions of Bologna, the culture, and even the descriptions of things like sewing were really fascinating. Honestly at times, I was more interested in those features more than the story itself.

The characters are decent. Elena is a strong protagonist with modern sensibilities. Her goals were definitely very clear, she wants to be a tailor. I just don't think I ever connected enough to her to really get why that was her goal specifically. Her motivations just didn't feel well explored, in my opinion. She wants to be a tailor and I think kind of considers being a seamstress as less than for some reason. I just don't get why. Maybe that's just me though, and it could make more sense to others! Just something that took me out of the story a bit. Her friendships were well written and her connections to others made her character more enjoyable.

The plot is absolutely entertaining, if not a bit more unrealistic than I'd like my historical fiction to be. Or seemingly unrealistic is probably a better why to say it. I just couldn't suspend my disbelief quite enough for some of it, like the plan to get justice/revenge. Fontana was a great villain though! Really despicable and worked well for the story.

There's definitely some darker themes that this book deals with, so I wouldn't say it's for younger audiences. But if you're looking for a historical fiction novel with a vividly depicted setting, a strong protagonist, and a lot of heart, then definitely check out City of Silk!

[Helen · Rating 3 out of 5]

I love reading about Renaissance Italy, but most novels focus on Rome, Florence or Venice, so this one, set in Bologna – famous for its silk industry in the 16th century – was something slightly different.

It’s 1575 and our narrator, Elena Morandi, is working as a seamstress in Signora Ruffo’s workshop. Although she was raised in an orphanage from the age of ten after the death of both parents, Elena remembers the skills she was taught by her father, a tailor, and has proved to have a real talent for needlework. However, she’s bored with sewing women’s gowns and capes and longs to work on men’s clothing and gain the title of tailor rather than seamstress. Sadly, this is not an option for a woman and Elena seems destined to stay with Signora Ruffo – until she flees to escape an arranged marriage.

In need of a new job, Elena decides to pursue her dreams and manages to obtain a lowly position in a tailor’s workshop, sweeping the floor and fetching fabrics and threads for the Maestro, Francesco Rondinelli, and his three tailors. Then, just as she’s settling into her new life, a figure from her past walks into Rondinelli’s workshop to ask for a fitting. This is Antonio della Fontana, benefactor of the orphanage Elena attended and one of the most powerful men in Bologna. He had abused his position of power at the orphanage and it seems that nothing has changed; when even Rondinelli and his friends begin to suffer at the hands of Fontana, Elena decides it’s time to take revenge.

City of Silk is one of several historical novels I’ve read recently that deal with women trying to forge a career for themselves in fields traditionally dominated by men. Tracy Chevalier’s The Glassmaker, Joanne Burn’s The Bone Hunters and Ambrose Parry’s The Spendthrift and the Swallow are three I’ve read just this year (featuring, respectively, a female glassmaker, a female would-be geologist and a woman desperate to become a doctor). This is obviously another and while I admired Elena’s determination and ambition, I would have liked more detail on why she felt it was so important to become a tailor instead of aspiring to be like Signora Ruffo, who was running her own successful business and was financially independent. I’m not sure I really understood why Elena seemed to look down on seamstresses so much or why she considered it so much more rewarding to make clothes for men rather than women.

As mentioned above, I did love the setting. I’ve never been to Bologna, but Virgo’s descriptions brought it to life for me. I also found it interesting to learn about the city’s role as a leading European centre of silk production and what it was like to work in a tailor’s or seamstress’s workshop during that period. Most of the characters are fictional, but Virgo explains in her author’s note at the end that a few of them really existed and another is inspired by a portrait in the National Gallery!

The scheme Elena and her friends come up with to take their revenge on Fontana seemed very unlikely to me – I couldn’t imagine anybody actually doing what they did, particularly not in the 16th century – but otherwise the plot was quite entertaining. This is Glennis Virgo’s first novel (for which she has won the Debut Writers Over 50 Award) and although I’m not sure if I’ll read her next one, I could be tempted depending on the subject.

[Bzz Kolla · Rating 5 out of 5]

Thank you NetGalley and Allison & Busby for this eCopy to review

City of Silk is a captivating historical fiction novel set in 16th-century Bologna, Italy. The story follows Elena Morandi, a talented seamstress who dreams of becoming a tailor, an occupation barred to women at the time. Determined to break free from the constraints of her gender and her past, Elena embarks on a journey of ambition, friendship, and revenge.

Elena, who grew up in the harsh environment of the Barracano orphanage, finds herself in the workshop of a master tailor, despite the profession being officially off-limits to women. Her life takes a dramatic turn when a powerful man from her past, Antonio della Fontana, reappears and threatens everything she has worked for. Driven by a desire for justice and retribution, Elena hatches a plan to expose Antonio’s abuses and secure her place as a tailor.

As Elena navigates the dangerous world of Renaissance Bologna, she forms alliances and faces numerous challenges. The plot builds in momentum, leading to a satisfying and thrilling conclusion. The novel immerses readers in the sights, sounds, and textures of 16th-century Italy, with beautifully observed historical details that ground the story in a strong sense of place and time.

Elena is a compelling and relatable protagonist, whose determination and resilience shine through. The secondary characters are equally well-drawn, adding depth and complexity to the narrative. The relationships and interactions between the characters feel authentic and engaging, making the story even more captivating.

The novel explores themes of ambition, friendship, and revenge. It highlights the struggles and triumphs of a woman fighting against societal norms and personal adversity.

City of Silk is a breath taking historical fiction debut that transports readers to 16th-century Bologna. With its richly detailed setting, compelling characters, and gripping plot, it’s a novel that will stay with you long after you finish reading. I highly recommend it to anyone who enjoys historical fiction.

[Daphne Sharpe · Rating 5 out of 5]

A wonderfully coloured and rich story of fashion, luxurious materials and creative needlework, determined females and an undercurrent of abuse and revenge. The story is set in Bologna, the year is 1575.
The narrator is Elena, who has been at the Santa Maria del Barracano Orphanage since she was 10 years old. Her late father was a tailor and they enjoyed discussing fashions, how to choose fabric to create and flatter the figure, and he taught her how to sew neatly, so when she leaves the orphanage, she gains employment as a seamstress for Signora Ruffo. These are some of her happiest times, where she learns new skills and enjoys the gossip of the city of Bologna.
Elena still desires to be a tailor, but that occupation is forbidden to females. When a marriage is arranged for Elena after three years of employment, she decides to run away, and find employment on her own terms, even if that means using a disguise.
When she meets Signor Fontana , he doesn’t recognise her in disguise, but she remembers the man who used to abuse her and several other girls in the orphanage, and she decides to show the citizens of Bologna just what a person he is.
This story has a strong, feisty and determined female lead, and a battle of wills between her desire to follow her dreams and seek revenge upon the man who treated her and many others so badly.
There are many mature themes in this book, sexual abuse, ignored by the Nuns, who possibly aided the perpetrators, molestation, but not penetration, a girl has to be pure to make a good marriage and uphold Catholic values. Other themes are homosexuality, suicide, racial discrimination, and torture.
Possibly not for the very young adults, but a very worthy and ultimately uplifting read.
A five star read, I greatly enjoyed this book.
My thanks to Netgalley and the publishers Allison and Bushby for my ARC , freely given in return for my honest review. I will leave copies to Goodreads and Amazon UK upon publication.

[Justyna · Rating 5 out of 5]

"City of Silk" by Glennis Virgo is a beautifully written historical fiction. Set in 16th century Bologna.
Book description :
Elena Morandi is a supremely talented seamstress, at home among the bolts of fabric and cutting shears of her trade. However, she is determined that her ambition to be a tailor, a profession barred to her as a woman, will not slip through from her fingers like thread from the eye of a needle. With luck and perseverance, Elena gains a fragile foothold in the workshop of a master tailor, but then a man from her past crosses her path. Antonio della Fontana has every corner of the city in his pocket and, as Elena knows all too well, abused his position of power at the Baraccano orphanage. Driven to fight for justice against a man seemingly above the law, Elena hatches a plan to get retribution for herself, a lost friend and those still prey to Fontana's abuses.

My opinion
The author describes Bologna in such a detail that it makes you feel like you are there. Her language is fitting with an era but it's not too heavy or hard to decipher. Characters are smartly composed and develop over the time. Some are more likable than others but each of them have an important role to play. Despite being set in 16th century the book brings out universal problems that people are still struggling with. We have orphans, poverty and position of power determined by who you know and how much money you have. It's a really great read that makes you to slow down and think about your own life and decisions you made and sacrifices you took. I'd love the ending to be different but I'm also secretly hoping for next book about Elena and her friends.
Overall 5 stars
Big thanks to Netgalley for the early copy in exchange for the honest review.

[Adrian · Rating 4 out of 5]

I thank NetGalley for giving me an advance copy of this book in exchange for an honest review.

Like Glennis Virgo, I too am enraptured by Italy of yesterday and today, so this book and its story of Bologna in 1575 felt positively hand to glove. There is a lot - and I repeat, a lot of plot that goes into this short but fairly detailed book. We meet our heroine, Elena, an orphan and a seamstress, with ambitions of becoming a tailor. Tailors were males in Bologna in 1575 and will be for quite some time. However, through cunning, gumption and desperation, Elena has a dream to make it happen, partly due to her talents, partly to honour her father's legacy and partly because she's stubborn beyond measure.

And as we lift the veil, we have an assortment of secondary characters that intersect in Elena's life. Sofia, who Elena calls Sofia but is actually Suhailah, is a fellow seamstress and a mixed-race character mistrusted in superstitious medieval Italy. We have the Signora, who wants to wed Elena off, meaning she'll never work in the profession she wants. So, Elena escapes and, by pure pluck, gains another position, which causes her personal life at the orphanage and her professional life to intersect when we meet Antonio della Fontana.

I thought this was a fine effort, especially for a debut. There was so much going on that perhaps this book could have benefited from some light dialogue to break up the action but I very much enjoyed the frenzied action. The plot I didn't totally believe, perhaps the last 50 pages or so, but it certainly provided great entertainment. The description of the threads, silks and designs within the city were illuminating and inviting, as were the foods and religious ceremonies. A real charmer of a novel.

[Barbara Whitfield · Rating 4 out of 5]

Glennis Virgo's 'City of Silk' is a historical novel set in sixteenth-century Bologna. It follows the orphaned, Elena, as she navigates a life in which gender and poverty leave her prey to the mores of a restrictive society and the whims of the rich who she serves first, as a seamstress and then as an assistant tailor. One of her customers, the flamboyant and seemingly charitable Fontana, she previously encountered in the orphanage where Fontana has used his power to abuse young girls. Elena seeks revenge.

I'm not usually a fan of historical fiction as I often find myself trying to catch anachronisms or struggling with the author's delight at showcasing their research through long explanatory paragraphs or unnatural expository dialogue. Virgo's novel doesn't fall into either of these traps. There isn't a bum note in the book. We are transported to sixteenth-century Bologna without fanfare or folderol. Her language evokes the era without feeling forced or heavy. And the subject matter feels simultaneously of the period while also being relevant to today addressing themes of gender, sexuality, race, poverty and abuse of power. Despite such weighty topics, I didn't find the novel heavy. It flows easily with moments of drama arriving exactly when needed. The protagonist may not be universally likeable, but that's what makes her compelling. She's selfish and obsessed, traits that not only help her achieve her ambitions but allow room for her growth as the novel progresses. By the end, imperceptibly, Elena has become an adult and I have no idea how Virgo pulled off that trick. That this is a debut novel is astonishing. I look forward to seeing where Virgo takes us next.

[Lynda · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a great read. A fascinating piece of historical fiction that made for a compelling read. Set in Bologna, Italy in 1575 it is the story of Elena Morandi a young girl who from the age of 10 was brought up in Baraccano, an orphanage, after the death of her parents. Her father was a tailor and taught her well and from the orphanage she was sent to Signora Ruffo as a seamstress however, when she was told that she was to be married she ran away to pursue her dreams of becoming a tailor - an unheard of profession for a woman at this time. The author has clearly done a lot of research and it shows; I found myself totally immersed in Elena’s life and that of the people of Bologna.

Briefly, Elena does eventually find work at a renowned tailoring establishment doing menial tasks but her pleasure at this small success is soon tempered when a figure from her past, at the orphanage, wealthy benefactor Antonio della Fontana, comes into the tailors for a fitting. But as time passes and she is allowed to do more of the tailoring she vows vengeance on Fontana.

Elena is a great character, just one of many in this book, but she clearly is suffering from PTSD due to the abuse she endured at the orphanage alongside the loss of her best friend. Her new friendship with Sophia is lovely but tempered by Elena’s past and her habit to allowing her feeling to spill over into words that are not always kind. I really did love everything about this book and can’t wait for the authors next book. A wonderful historical novel, strong characters and an emotional, and at times heartbreaking story, but fear not good will out!

[AHR - · Rating 4 out of 5]

Elena Morandi an orphan who grew up in the Santa Maria Del Baraccano orphanage is working for signora Ruffo. A seamstress for the signora her mistress and residing in her palazzo in Bologna Italy.
Elena dreams of being a tailor, following in her late father’s footsteps, but it’s the 1500’s, the era of renaissance Italy. Certainly not a time period of women achieving their aspirations, or could it possibly be?
Elena has grievances against Antonio della Fontana, a man of wealth and privilege. Scores to settle against him. Fontana has caused injustice to many of the girls from the orphanage, abusing his position there.
Ambitions and grievances are a powerful combination.

Warning… this book covers sensitive issues.

This book is a work of historical fiction, though at the end of it in the author’s notes it says that some of the characters existed, but they were woven into the fictional characters.
I loved this book, the writing was extremely descriptive. I could vision it all perfectly as if I were there. The descriptions of the fabrics and sewing was so vivid. A powerful interesting book that captured my interest from the start. Exciting and suspenseful at times, with a bunch of varied characters.
Sixteenth century historical Bologna.

This is a debut novel that was such a good read for myself. I certainly look forward to reading any future books from this author.
Many thanks to NetGalley and Publisher for an advanced e-book copy. Opinions about the book are entirely my own.

[Maxine · Rating 5 out of 5]

Set in Bologna in the 16th century, City of Silk is a beautifully written debut novel bu Glennis Virgo. The story opens with Elena, working as a seamstress for women but what she really wants is to be a tailor like her father, a profession unheard of for a woman. The story takes us through her backstory, including several years in a orphanage after the deaths of her parents as well as her efforts to satisfy her ambition to become a tailor. The story has a fairly large cast of characters, all well-developed and interesting, many of them drawn from real life. Elena, herself, is a strong, smart, and determined protagonist, one easy to like as well as empathize with. The story is compelling, providing beautiful, often lush, descriptions of the city, the materials used in the trade, and many of the customs of the city during the period as well as the situation for women at the time. It took me a bit to really get into the book but, once I did, I couldn’t put it down and ended up loving it. It should be noted this is not always an easy story, dealing with some very difficult subjects including sexual abuse of young girls, suicide, racism, and misogyny. I will admit I was first tempted to request this book from Netgalley because of it’s gorgeous cover and I am so glad I did because, overall, I found it a very enjoyable read with a great cast and even some added suspense and I look forward to reading more by this author in the future.

Thanks to Netgalley and Allison & Busby for the opportunity to read this book in exchange for an honest review

[Kirsten · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a gloriously written and beautifully detailed book that will make you smile and break your heart.

In this book, we meet Elena, a young woman living in Renaissance Italy. After the deaths of her parents, she has been living in a home for orphans where she can continue learning the skills her Father had started to teach her in sewing garments. She becomes extremely skilled as a seamstress, but when told that she will be married off to a man she barely knows, she runs away. She is able to find employment as a helper to a renowned garment maker, but she is determined to become a seamstress. This is no easy task in a world where women are not often given the opportunity to work as a seamstress.

During her time there, she encounters some devastating reminders of her difficult and, at times, abusive childhood at the home for orphans, especially when she encounters the man who not only was abusive to her and others but is the man who caused the death of her best friend. She is determined to seek justice for them all, especially her friend.

This book is written in such a way that you can imagine seeing everything through Elena’s eyes. Some parts can be difficult to read because you quickly fall in love with Elena and want the best for her. She is so beautifully written that it shows her flaws but also her bravery and her love for her family and friends.

If you love a book that will take you on a journey of emotions, then this book is for you.