A Scented Palace: The Secret History of Marie Antoinette's Perfumer

by Elisabeth de Feydeau, Jane Lizop (Translator)

This book offers a new look at the world of Marie Antoinette through the story of her personal and exclusive perfumer, Jean-Louis Fargeon. Jean-Louis served Marie for fourteen years until 1789 when the Revolution swept across France, its wrath aimed at the extravagances of the Royal Court and those who served it. Fargeon, a lifelong supporter of the Republican cause but a purveyor to the court, was in a dangerous position. Yet he remained fiercely loyal to Marie Antoinette, beyond her desperate flight to Varennes, her execution and even through his own imprisonment and trial. A Scented Palace is a wonderful window into the world of France during its most brutal and violent days.

Genres: History, Nonfiction, Biography, France, Royalty, Research, 18th Century

176 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 2004

About the author

Élisabeth de Feydeau (born 28 July 1966), is a French historian and writer. She is also an expert in fragrance.

Reviews

[Gianna · Rating 5 out of 5]

The book, as the title suggests, is not really an account of the historical events of this time or a detailed account of Marie Antoinette’s life (for the latter, I’d recommend Zweig’s or Frazier’s books). Based on Jean-Louis Fargeon’s—a perfumer for the court—biography, it offers a look at the fashion industry and the people who actually created the glamor surrounding the Queen. Perfumery was already well established in France, and even philosophers at the time acknowledged the importance of our olfactory senses. “Perfume was no longer simply ‘the agreeable fragrance that pleases the sense of smell,” the author points out, “It was a key to the soul.”

One of the most interesting aspects of the book to me was that it provides details about perfume formulae or simply what some of the popular fragrances were. Marie Antoinette, for example, was particularly fond of rose, violet, or tuberose scents. There is a detailed description of the Parfum du Trianon, named after her favorite garden, a perfume which Fargeon designed specifically for her. The Appendix, which contains an excerpt from Fargeon’s actual notes, describing different perfume ingredients, was interesting to read as well. Although it is a bit sketchy, the book provides a delightful bridge between Marie Antoinette’s story and the perfume industry.

Here is one of my favorite quotes:

“Fargeon had observed that the tuberose had the power to discourage anxiety and stimulate desire. He added just a pinch, for the Queen loved the flower in its natural state but was wary of the rapidly obsessional power of a scent that was halfway between honey and venom. Did the tuberose have a whiff of what Marie Antoinette most loathed, the destructive corruption of the soul” (p. 70).

[Rebecca · Rating 4 out of 5]

Such an interesting book, especially the appendices at the back, listing Fargeon's own notes about different scent-giving ingredients and the methods of capturing their scents. I was slightly disappointed by the limited footnoting, which didn't give much information about the quotes that were footnoted! It also wasn't very clear where so much of the information about Fargeon's thoughts came from- they were written of as plain facts with no references. That he wrote letters to his brother was mentioned, but not once did the author say where she was finding her information... Even if it wasn't all footnoted, I would have expected just a sentence, somewhere, saying it's from his diary/letters/memoir/written in his own blood on the prison walls, but nothing, not even on the inside of the jacket cover! It made it difficult to know how much was fact and what she was imagining that he might have thought and felt. However, despite that slight moan it is a really interesting read - quick and very engaging!

[Caterina Pierre · Rating 5 out of 5]

For many years I have been looking to purchase a Parisian perfume made from an old recipe. Numerous Google searches never yielded anything interesting. But I recently came across, and just read, “A Scented Palace: The Secret History of Marie-Antoinette’s perfumer” (originally published in 2006), which led me to the perfume that I knew existed but couldn’t find anywhere; it is probably the closest anyone can find to an original 18th-Century perfume by the Queen’s perfumer, Jean-Louis Fargeon.
The book is a well written account of the perfumier Jean-Louis Fargeon, born into a family of perfume makers in Montpellier. He worked his way up and into the Court of Versailles, eventually becoming the special perfumer to Marie Antoinette. It was a pleasure to imagine the wonderful scents that Fargeon created for the Queen, and also to learn of her elaborate bathing and dressing habits. She had a “lieux a l’anglaise” (basically a jet rinser) installed at Versailles (which is the origin of how the English came to call the bathroom the “loo” (lieux/loo). I found his potions fascinating, and I have always felt that Marie Antoinette, while she was an unfortunate spend thrift, was misjudged. Her only fault was having been part of an antiquated system that was at its end. Fargeon obviously gets arrested for being a purveyor to the Court, and, like in a dramatic novel, you’ll be at the edge of your seat wondering if, in the end, he gets to keep his head.
This isn’t mentioned in the book, but:
While Fargeon’s perfumes, powders, scented bath oils, pomades, scented gloves and other scented pleasures are no longer produced, it is possible to purchase “Black Jade,” from the House of Lubin, said to be made from the remnants of the perfume bottle that Marie Antoinette had with her in prison. The bottle was discovered in our current century. Today the house of Lubin (named after Fargeon’s apprentice Pierre-Francois Lubin), sells the perfume they believe is the closest replica to the perfume she had in the black jade bottle. It may be a fantasy, but the scent is light and lush, and it does honor the work of both Fargeon and Lubin very well. I like to think the hero Fargeon would have enjoyed it, and would have loved that someone could read this book about his stellar life and also wear the closest rendition of one of his perfumes to come down to us today. I wore it the entire time that I read the book. Both are a delicious pleasure.

[Simon · Rating 2 out of 5]

Less a book than an extended magazine article. de Feydeau offers no insights at all into Marie Antoinette, other than the fact that she liked to smell good. Which I think we all kind of suspected. And all kidding aside, the book might have benefited from a judicious sprinkling of scratch 'n' sniffs. Just putting it out there. A pleasant enough light (very light) read if you are interested in Herself, but I can't imagine why anyone else would pick it up.

[B · Rating 3 out of 5]

This was a bit disappointing. Still interesting but I was expecting more biographical information. If you read Fraser's biography of Marie Antoinette this book will be a nice accompaniment. I was expecting more information about the scents and body care products she used. The appendix included the perfumer's own notes on different oils, masks etc. and that was highly interesting!

[Kara · Rating 4 out of 5]

I was debating 3 1/2 to 4 stars. It was an interesting book, but not quite of the traditional biographical vein. I had been expecting to learn about the perfumer rather than read about his passion, but I cannot say that I did not enjoy myself.

It was nice to have a closer look at Marie Antoinette. But other than the usual fare about her majesty (her dresses, the lesbian rumors, her 'affair' with Count Axel de Fersen, the Affair of the Neckless), there isn't anything new to read about. Fargeon liked his Queen, but he was still a staunch Republican.

I read, once again, that Rose Bertin, though a talented clothing designer, is a terrible businesswoman and a bit stuck up even for being the Queen's milliner. And also had the gall to price her items at such exorbitant costs. It's still such a shame that there isn't a recently published biography of her; the closest was printed in 1908 by John Long Limited and written by Emil Langlade (according to Goodreads). I'd still like to read it though. There's a French version by Michelle Sapori published in 2004; I hope it's due to come out in English sometime soon.

The ending was a bit anticlimactic (I hope that doesn't give too much away). I liked the appendices and notes pages. It was very interesting to learn about how to make perfume. I imagine it's a tiny bit different now.

Though it was well-written, I kind of wish that some of the french statements and titles had been translated, at least once. It was distracting because I didn't know what it meant. I would've used an online translator, but I don't trust those things.

What was obvious from the first page was the author's passion for perfumery. I had no idea that there was a college whose curriculum centered around learning how to make perfumes and the history behind the art. Figures it would be in France. She was given a Prix Guerlain for this book, an award usually only given to beauty products and the like that actually make good on their promises of better skin, etc.

Overall, an interesting account of perfumery in the time of Louis XVI, but not really a biography.

[Natacha Pavlov · Rating 4 out of 5]

In this volume, French historian, writer, and expert in fragrance Elisabeth de Feydeau explores the role of 18th century fragrance through the eyes of Jean Louis Fargeon, perfumer to Marie Antoinette.

It's a light read offering glimpses into the glamorous world of scent, including popular philosophical views of it at the time. A reminder: amidst all the physical opulence that is Versailles, one thing that may easily be forgotten is how smelly the place was back then—a factor the author effectively conveys (and as usual with this issue, also conjures up Suskind's "Perfume"). With Fargeon as the focus, it can make for a quick brush on the French Revolution, as it does not go into much detail on any particular individuals (also can't seem to find any pictures of him?)

Scent remains a fascinating spiritual topic to me. Since I was a child I've loved watching paranormal shows (to my parents' occasional concern, lol!), and that, along with all the spiritual and metaphysical material I've since come upon, constantly fuel my interest in fostering positive energy the olfactory way.

[Louise Culmer · Rating 3 out of 5]

interesting biography of the man who supplied perfume and cosmetics to the French nobility, including Marie Antoinette. perhaps surprisingly, considering his trade, he was a staunch Republican, which helped him to survive the Revolution, even after he came under suspicion for having traded with aristocrats. One of the most interesting aspects of the book is the details of how he worked, and particularly his wife's involvement in the business. A sometimes overlooked aspect of life in pre industrial times is that wives were more often than not involved in their husbands work, whatever it might be. marriage was a real partnership. The book gives a view of Marie Antoinette from the pointof view of a tradesman who knew her, and who liked her, despite his Republican sympathies. it should be enjoyed by anyone with an interest in this turbulent period of French history.

[SilveryTongue · Rating 4 out of 5]

0,4 estrellas

Relectura

[Jess · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is one of the many lovely books I have picked up and put down unfinished over the years, but today I finished it! The content is a delight to French history fans and the author very obviously a dedicated perfumer herself. The story is enchanting and the introductions to many of the famous names at French court during the reigns of Louis XV and Louis XVI, exciting. There are also some wonderful lines and quotes in this book, two of my favorites which I extract here:
- "Fargeon decided upon gloves. Like every well-bred man, he knew the significance of the glove. The object that one pretends to forget when one wants to be called back carries one's brand, one's perfume, one's stamp. It hides the hand that offers itself or withdraws."
- [Marie Antoinette to her dressmaker, Rose Bertin] "Last night I dreamt of you, dear Rose. It seemed you were bringing me lots of ribbons of all different colours, and I chose several, but as soon as I took them in my hands, they turned black."
The last star is missing from this review because I found some of the perfume detail too lengthy as someone who knows nothing about perfume. While I certainly appreciate the artistry, love and scents generally, I found myself getting a bit lost or distracted in lengthy perfume descriptions.
Ultimately, a very worthwhile read.

[Sophie · Rating 4 out of 5]

If I’m honest, I haven’t finished this book. I likely will at some point but do not see myself doing it soon. It is full of interesting facts, and I am appreciative that Elisabeth de Feydeau wrote it. I’ve researched Marie-Antoinette in this past pretty extensively, and through this book found out other small facts about her everyday life that many other researchers leave out. Despite this, it is more a book to pull for sources rather than an enjoyable sit-down read. It also doesn’t have that much of a flow. Overall, I don’t regret buying this book - I just wish I hadn’t bought it thinking it’d be something less scholarly and thesis-like. Probably a 3.5-4/5?

[Jessica Culver · Rating 3 out of 5]

Lots of surprises (that I suppose I should have remembered from history classes) to delve into, which I nonetheless enjoyed. The writing was a tad awkward for such a short work, this is why I gave it only 3 stars. I would recommend it though, for its brevity and the dense pack of historical tidbits. It was fun to quickly get a better sense of the extravagances of the time as well as the naming conventions for people, places and things. It was also fun to learn a few catchy phrases and compare and contrast the old and new worlds of high style and excess. I started this book and came back to it much later, and it was no challenge to do so.

[Elenute · Rating 5 out of 5]

Well researched. This book has a good description of the French revolution. It describes the life of :arie Antointte's perfumer, placing him in French society in the time before the Revolution, giving the reader a fascinating picture of French royal society, and the culture of the time.
His true life story is exciting itself (a description of him being in court, attacked by the Revolutionairies), but his descriptions of his art is also fascinating. He describes his use of the creation of various scents to the point of even describing Marie-Antoinette's preferences.

[Priscilla Leonard · Rating 4 out of 5]

It was really good. There are points where it was hard for me to read because I simply couldn't visualize the process of making a perfume. I really enjoyed the book though. I loved getting a glimpse into what it would've been like being a republican, who previously made his living through the ancien régime, during the Reign of Terror.

[Abby Shiner · Rating 3 out of 5]

Very informative. This is a period of history that I find fascinating. The intricacies of the woman’s toilettte were described in perfect detail but still understandable. The same can be said for how the author describes the missing of materials to create fragrance. Add the backdrop of the start of the French Revolution and any history buff would be intrigued by this book.

[Gina · Rating 3 out of 5]

an interesting history of the French Revolution that includes culture, lifestyle, and politics; it focuses less on Antoinette, other than the elements of her demise, and more on the court around here and its opulence

[Kate · Rating 3 out of 5]

Putting the secret history in the title kind of implies there is a secret in his history but there wasn’t one, this book was really about the beauty/fashion details of Marie’s life with some details about him & his creations.

[Heidi Goldrick-Thomas · Rating 5 out of 5]

History of fragrance has always intrigued me, and the story of Marie Antoinette's perfumer did not disappoint. Story curated from the journals/documents of Jean-Louis Fargeon. The Revolution is included.

[Mikje · Rating 3 out of 5]

A quick read as someone who knows nothing about perfume - The appendix was my favourite part of this book, I loved seeing the historical blends of different perfumes and how much smell is tied to class and Revolution.

[Verónica Frágola · Rating 5 out of 5]

Muy interesante, sobre todo la descripción de las técnicas usadas por los perfumistas para realizar sus obras. Si te interesa la perfumería, es lectura recomendada.

[Mariela Gallotti · Rating 4 out of 5]

Interesante porque está basado en un caso real. Para ver el lado B de la Revolución Francesa. Polémico pero bueno.

[Ronaldo Valdés Villafranca · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fascinante en su contenido, refrescante, una lectura ligera e interesante

[Lisa · Rating 3 out of 5]

Bought while visiting Versailles, I enjoyed the read.... my only real critique is that I wish there had been pictures of some of the hairstyles, clothing, and objects, etc.

[Anita Artisteando · Rating 3 out of 5]

Me encantó, no tengo nada para decir al respecto.

[Alexa.elam · Rating 3 out of 5]

I read this book based on a review in Judith Thurman's "Cleopatra's Nose." The subtitle suggests much more intrigue than the book offers, and suggest that the subject, the perfumer Fargeon, plays a much larger role. In truth this book is a solid and quick overview of the summtuary habits at Versailles with Fargeon as a kind of literary device that the author relates back to. It is an interesting angle to the history of the Queen of France and the revolution, and the author makes much of Fargeon's republicanism. However, it seems that Feydau's fascintation with this aspect of Fargeon occludes her ability to evaluate him honestly. To me his aspirations seem solidly bourgeois, and his extensive land holdings, horses, carriages, and royal clientele do not reconcile with his professed political leanings (the revolutionaries had similar misgivings). Fargeon's modern day equivalent wouls be a person earning a 6 figure salary who wears a Che T-shirt on the weekends. This book would have been better had Feydau been willing to examine these contradictions in depth, rather than excusing them is a few sentences.

[Max Renn · Rating 4 out of 5]

An admirable attempt to reframe the french revolution from the perspective of one specific and actual everyman, this one of the bourgeois artisanal class.

Unfortunately much of this relatively slender volume is taken up with history better covered elsewhere. Anecdotes regarding Marie Antoinette are par for the course and provide no real insight there. What saves this book (and elevates it to 4 stars) is the particulars regarding the art of perfumery as practiced in this time. Descriptions of production techniques and the art of scent composition are both beautiful and fascinating and the appendixes are pure gold. Indeed i found myself wishing that feydeau had been content to translate her primary documents rather than water them down and contextualize them for the masses. Still, her approach does make for a more readable book i guess. In some ways this book is a perfect companion to sofia coppola's film. Turning superficiality into a virtue really does seem to be a perfect approach for this subject.

[Shey · Rating 4 out of 5]

Esperaba algo diferente pero fue una biografía interesante. Soy una fan acérrima de Marie Antoinette y la historia francesa antes de la Revolución es un tema fascinante... así que el libro fue justo para mí. Una descripción detallada del levantamiento del pueblo francés desde un punto de vista inesperado: el mismísimo Jean Louis, quien disfrutó del éxito de su trabajo y fue uno de los favoritos de los nobles pero también así fue olvidado por los mismos cuando fue investigado como traidor. Personalmente, soy una amante de los perfumes (y si existiera una profesión como perfumista, seguramente me dedicaría a ello) y por lo mismo esperaba más información sobre los productos que la fashionista reina de Francia utilizaba en sus mejores días... pero no quedo decepcionada ya que sí describe ingredientes, flores, las maravillosas notas que encantaron el olfato de la aristocracia más esnob de la época... una maravillosa orquesta de aromas, combinaciones deliciosas y fáciles de imaginar. Para mí, el mundo de los perfumes es grandioso, así que este libro me gustó.

[Anna Gibson · Rating 4 out of 5]

A brief but informative look at one of the perfumers that Marie Antoinette highly favored. Although this book seems intended to be a biography, there is much more information about the man's perfumes and products than his actual life. However, the look at the beauty products of Versailles and in particular Marie Antoinette's favorite beauty products is well worth the easy read. The scent descriptions in the book are excellent, as well, and detailed enough to give the reader a good sense of the perfume. There is even a scent 'glossery' in the back for those of us who aren't familiar with some of the scents described in the book. This book is a great little addition to any 18th century library.

[Miranda · Rating 4 out of 5]

Me ha parecido muy interesante la aproximación que nos ofrece la autora a la moda y la vida en la Corte de Versalles. Por momentos, especialmente en cuanto relata la elaboración de las fragancias, la lectura puede tornarse un poco farragosa, pero ello no desmerece para nada este libro.

Quizá el lector que busque un ensayo exhaustivo sobre la moda de Versalles, la vida de María Antonieta y los perfumes encuentre este libro un tanto decepcionante, dado que la autora no profundiza en demasía, pero puede constituir un buen punto de partida.

En cuanto a la Revolución Francesa, su origen y desarrollo, recomendaría leer a historiadores que pudieran ser lo más imparciales posibles, que eviten generalizaciones, hechos no comprobados, así como descalificaciones o elogios partidistas.

[Anna · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this book- though I have read about four books about Marie Antoinette- this has a bourgeois viewpoint and reality that I appreciated, and generally undocumented. Also the scents and descriptions of perfume were delightful, I'm not that well versed but it made a kind of sumptuous read. I think I lost a lot in translation- jokes and such- but it wasn't an awkward read. The descriptions of Paris and Versailles, and the fetid hallways, courtyards, "smelling of death" and such had been quoted in a review of the movie Marie Antoinette, which is how I heard about this book. Neat. And a quick read.