Sight and sound are physical senses, but smell and taste are chemical: when you breathe in the smell of a pine forest, or your mother’s skin, you are taking molecules right inside your body, and that makes smell a very intimate sense.
From birth to death our eyesight and other senses deteriorate, but our sense of smell never weakens because the cells regenerate every twentyfour days.
Ambergris is still—occasionally—extracted naturally because, unlike civet and musk, its extraction does not harm the sperm whales that produce it. When the whale swallows, say, a squid, secretions from its stomach form a protective coating around the indigestible parts of the prey and, every so often, when the whale vomits up an undigested squid, the squid floats like a gelatinous honeycomb on the surface of the sea and is eventually washed ashore and collected. Ambergris is made from the secretion from the whale’s stomach which has enveloped the undigested matter. It is aged in alcohol over several years before it can be used; like a vintage wine, it mellows with age, whereas musk can be used straightaway.
The musk trade was ruled illegal because, even though the process of removing musk pods from male deer doesn’t harm the animal, the deer were often trapped in the process and so died before the trappers arrived to remove their musk pods. I have smelled real musk in the Middle East; compared with synthetic musk, the real thing is far more potent, but, apart from the fact that I didn’t want anything that was the result of cruelty to an animal in my bespoke scent, I thought the synthetic musk quite strong enough!
in her drawing room in South Kensington
A really good scent is a palimpsest and the layers are made up of what, in the trade, they call “notes.” The top notes, of citrus, “float”; the middle notes are floral and longer lasting; the base notes are usually woody and the most enduring.
it takes 100 kilograms of petals to yield just 1 liter of essential oil.
narcotic properties (if taken in large quantities nutmeg makes people hallucinate)
MY BESPOKE SCENT
The Pyramid Formula
THE TOP NOTES
Citron petitgrain: aromatic, zingy and slightly bitter
Zambac jasmine: erotic, exotic, warm, fruity and rich
MIDDLE (HEART) NOTES
Mimosa: earthy, powdery and spicily floral Damask rose: musky and floral Iris: warm and richly rooty—as the air smells after a summer shower—with aromatic fennel-like overtones Nutmeg: spicy, musky and masculine BASE NOTES Vetivert aromatic: earthy, damp and cooling Frankincense: pine and lemon notes at first, then heady, spicy and sweet Myrrh: redolent of the forest floor; honeyed with hints of lemon and rosemary Ambergris: breezy, euphoric, redolent of warm suntanned skin
good perfumes open the doors to our memories
I asked Frédéric about pheromones, the new buzzword in the science of smell. He said that the idea that you can make a fragrance that turns everyone on was hardly serious.
And I knew that scientists had long known about the affinity between scent and the sex drive. They know that certain odors stimulate the sex drive and that scent is a refined and subtle instrument of seduction. But you can’t smell pheromones. In 1956 the pheromone was first identified as a sexual attractant in the silkworm moth; Lyall Watson devoted several chapters to the subject in his book Jacobson’s Organ (2000); and in her book A Natural History of the Senses (1990), Diane Ackerman wrote that pheromones were “the packhorses of desire.”
THE WORLD’S MOST SPECIALIZED SCENT SCHOOLS ARE IN GRASSE. UNTIL recently trainee perfumers took up to ten years to learn their trade, but now the length of training has been reduced to three years and many of the schools have closed down. One of the most famous schools is still in Grasse, however. It is the GivaudanRoure school. if they smell patchouli they think of damp leaves by a lake, or they might associate pine essence with holidays by the sea. Trainees keep personal association notebooks.
there are certain accords or harmonies that coexist between them. For example, an accord might consist of lemons, which contrast with and enhance sandalwood; sandalwood, which contrasts with clove; and clove, which contrasts with orange
eight kilograms of rose petals can be picked in one hour by two rose pickers.
THE ANCIENT EXTRACTION PROCESS KNOWN AS ENFLEURAGE WAS first used by the Egyptians. The method used grease, or fat, instead of water, to immerse the flower heads, which were then laid out on glass frames, a bit like flower pressing.
However, in France jasmine is still extracted by enfleurage, and Robertet uses the method for the tuberose.
Leonardo da Vinci invented the process of maceration—softening the ingredient by steeping it in a liquid—and then used solvents to extract essences.
And it is as well to remember that extraction units can be dangerous places. The solvents are so flammable and so volatile that a telephone or a tape recorder can cause an explosion. A journalist once caused a blast with his camera flash in the Laboratoire Monique Rémy. Distillation units, on the other hand, use water and so are far less hazardous.