When Women Ran Fifth Avenue: Glamour and Power at the Dawn of American Fashion

by Julie Satow, Karen Murray (Narrator)

10 hours, 9 minutes

NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER An Amazon Best Book of 2024 A glittering portrait of the golden age of American department stores and of three visionary women who led them, from the award-winning author of The Plaza. "Ms. Satow’s carefully researched book is compulsively readable: I found myself dashing through it like a novel. She portrays the women with verve; we get a glimpse into their lives, as well as a sense of what it was like at each of these retail meccas."—The Wall Street Journal

The twentieth century American department store: a palace of consumption where every wish could be met under one roof – afternoon tea, a stroll through the latest fashions, a wedding (or funeral) planned. It was a place where women, shopper and shopgirl alike, could stake out a newfound independence. Whether in New York or Chicago or on Main Street, USA, men owned the buildings, but inside, women ruled.

In this hothouse atmosphere, three women rose to the top. In the 1930s, Hortense Odlum of Bonwit Teller came to her husband's department store as a housewife tasked with attracting more shoppers like herself, and wound up running the company. Dorothy Shaver of Lord & Taylor championed American designers during World War II—before which US fashions were almost exclusively Parisian copies—becoming the first businesswoman to earn a $1 million salary. And in the 1960s Geraldine Stutz of Henri Bendel re-invented the look of the modern department store. With a preternatural sense for trends, she inspired a devoted following of ultra-chic shoppers as well as decades of copycats.

In When Women Ran Fifth Avenue, journalist Julie Satow draws back the curtain on three visionaries who took great risks, forging new paths for the women who followed in their footsteps. This stylish account, rich with personal drama and trade secrets, captures the department store in all its glitz, decadence, and fun, and showcases the women who made that beautifully curated world go round.

Genres: Nonfiction, History, Fashion, Biography, Audiobook, Feminism, Book Club

Audiobook

First published June 4, 2024

About the author

Julie Satow is an award-winning journalist and the author. Her new book, When Women Ran Fifth Avenue: Glamour and Power at the Dawn of American Fashion will be published on June 4 with Doubleday. Her first book, The Plaza: The Secret Life of America's Most Famous Hotel, was a New York Times Editor's Choice and an NPR Favorite Book of 2019. She lives in New York City with her family.

Reviews

[Brendan (History Nerds United) · Rating 5 out of 5]

To say that I am not the audience for this book would be a massive understatement. 13 years of Catholic School, and then right into the Army after that, means fashion is my ultimate weakness. I know my belt should match my shoes or something. I digress. Julie Satow would need to do a lot of work to make When Women Ran Fifth Avenue appealing to my brain. Somehow, she did it!

Satow follows the career paths of three main women of fashion in New York throughout the early to mid-1900s. Each woman gets her own part biography and then a look at the changes she made to the fashion industry but mostly focused on their specific employers at the time. Interspersed are some smaller chapters on different people and topics related to the fashion industry but not the overall narrative. Satow writes all of this quite well by never leaning too hard into any one thing. Some of it is biography but also business, fashion, and personal relationships.

Another interesting aspect is Satow's willingness to tell the whole story. There is a version of this book where it is marketed as a celebration of feminism with inconvenient details papered over. Satow doesn't hide from the fact that one of her main characters disavows her business career later in life. It makes the narrative more interesting and let's the reader draw their own conclusions when given the whole story. Needless to say, (but I will anyway) Satow did the impossible. She made a fashion book even I could enjoy.

(This book was provided as an advance copy by the publisher.)

[Hannah · Rating 5 out of 5]

When I lived in NYC, one of my favorite places was Henri Bendel's. I loved the distinct shopping bags and the unique and immersive environment of the store's whimsy and beauty, and the affordability of afternoon formal tea. I felt so grown up and special whenever I went. I couldn't believe I could afford anything there at all. Usually, if I bought something, it would've been in the cosmetics section back when I used to think makeup was a necessary part of my professional armor. But mostly, my friend and I would meet there for afternoon tea and gossip and catch up and feel grown up. The only other place I felt that was the basement in Takashimaya's department store, but that's a mourning to discuss another day.

I had very different experiences at Bloomingdales, which felt like a place only the elderly of the Upper East Side would shop at, and Lord & Taylor, where it seemed the high school suburban self-proclaimed JAPS would go (we were so awful as kids - JAPs were Jewish-American Princesses). Barneys was a place I went annually for their mega sale, but other than that sale, I never stepped foot in there because I assumed it was too expensive. Neiman Marcus was where very rich women from out of town shopped. Bergdorf Goodman was where you'd go if you wanted to feel badly about yourself for being an ordinary person, Macy's, which sits in the heart of Koreatown and has thrown the Macy's Thanksgiving Parade for 100 years, was probably the only store that felt accessible. There was also Saks Fifth Avenue which always had beautiful window displays and where it seemed the only thing I might ever be able to afford would be one sock on sale (not even a full pair). It was also where the sales staff kept following my friends and I around for very different reasons - my friend was followed around for being Black and was in need of hyper surveillance in case she stole anything, and I was followed around because I was Asian (they thought I was a Japanese tourist) and presumably flush with cash to burn. So my friend and I flipped the script, as is said, and I followed her around as if I was her shopping companion, picking up clothes after her, carrying her bags, and holding dresses up against her to comment on how beautiful or ridiculous she would look. (It was only 15 years later when I would step into a Saks Fifth Avenue again and find myself relieved that the Houston store was at least less obvious about its prejudices.)

The truth is, none of these perceptions were so clearly identifiable as I thought. I probably can walk into any of the stores and feel welcomed, looked down upon, feel inadequate or triumphant, and transform into someone who walks out the door feeling superior for the experience of having been special enough to buy something. In hindsight, I realize that's how they do a gotcha! I spent far too many hours trying to use these stores to conform my identity around and far too much money to try to prove it - both at a time when I was making so little money that it was possibly the most foolish thing I could do. But whereas my parents' "American Dream" was for my brothers and me to get private college educations, own our homes, and work in professional jobs, my vision of the "American Dream" was to be able to walk into any of these stores and feel like I belonged (which I probably only could've done because my parents' version of this dream was achieved).

Wanting to revisit my youth, I read this book. Plus I loved the title. I had no idea of any of the women profiled. Giant respect for all of them, including the very sad Hortense Odlum whose internalized sexism probably hurt women as much as her achievements helped inspire women and who had an incredibly tragic personal life, especially in relationship to her sons. Of course I shook my head at the distinct gender wage gap, but I loved how the men who asked these women to run their stores had so much faith in them, particularly since they had no formal college education or relevant work experience (well, except for Dorothy Shaver who had worked her way up from the sales floor but really, she benefited from nepotism).

Given the amount of time I spent in these stores so many years ago and how my identity as a young adult was partially formed in and by them, I feel such sadness every time one of them goes out of business. So I feel like this book is the perfect homage to the women who ran Fifth Avenue back in the day, because it was they who created these stores in the images of their personal essences, which allowed me to have the experiences that I had. I thank these women for all they did for me and for being the icons that they were in their time. They probably helped propel feminism (even Hortense, though she did it more than reluctantly - she did it bitterly) more than they ever gave themselves credit for. Bravo to the men who saw their brilliance, and boos to the men like Leslie Wexner and Trump (ugh - I hate even spelling his name!!!) for having snuffed these women out of history.

[Susie Schnall · Rating 5 out of 5]

Unbelievably comprehensive and interesting, Julie Satow's meticulous research paves the way for a thorough look into the history of department stores and the women who ran them, influenced them, and created opportunities for so many other women. So interesting and well done!

[Faith · Rating 4 out of 5]

I liked the historical details about department stores, including the innovations in the three featured stores. Unfortunately, I had no interest in the three featured women, and there was a lot of biographical material. I skipped that when I could, but it’s harder to do when listening to an audiobook. 3.5 stars

[Jenna · Rating 3 out of 5]

I made it through this book but was a bit disappointed in it. As others have shared, it was heavier on personal biography and there was not as much of a fashion history element as I’d hoped. Covering three women’s lives in one book was quite an ambitious undertaking, so it felt a bit choppy and I found myself feeling far less interested in their biographies than I was in the fashion merchandising innovations to which they each contributed at times. These parts of the book were interesting, but unfortunately felt like mere accessories, or endcaps, if you will.

[Amina · Rating 2 out of 5]

I decided to DNF at the halfway mark. If you are looking for a better understanding of 5TH AVENUE, you may not get it, the book focuses on biographical parts of key women and successful leaders in the department store world.

I wanted more backstory, the vibe of 5th Avenue —-the air, the people, the glamour—this felt more like a college essay, often veering off the mark—flowing into a tangent of unimportant side stories.

It wasn’t what I expected
2/5 stars

[None Ofyourbusiness Loves Israel · Rating 3 out of 5]

Three remarkable women revolutionized the American department store scene and their careers are examined and exemplified in this fascinating book. Hortense Odlum breathed new life into Bonwit Teller in the 1930s, becoming the first woman to helm a major department store. Her visionary strategies and inclusive approach made the store a magnet for both the wealthy and the thrifty.

Dorothy Shaver's rise at Lord & Taylor is another highlight, where she became the highest-paid female executive of her era. Shaver's leadership was marked by her championing of American fashion designers and her modernization of retail practices. Her tenure shattered gender barriers and set new benchmarks in the fashion industry.

Geraldine Stutz's ownership of Henri Bendel marked her as the first female owner of a major department store. Stutz's creative merchandising and mentorship of future female leaders in retail were hallmarks of her leadership. Satow's narrative showcases the profound influence these women had on the fashion industry and the cultural landscape of mid-20th century America.

Wonderful and juicy cameo appearances by the likes of Warhol, Trump, Jackie O and countless other luminaries enliven the pages with the nostalgic air of a time when customers were serviced and saleswomen did not work their wage and their wage was an actual wage.

[Samantha · Rating 3 out of 5]

There were parts of this that I found riveting, but it’s extremely heavy on personal biography, and the content I expect most of us were looking for—the history of department stores in this era—suffers as a result.

Some ancillary background on the women central to the story is fine, but I would have greatly preferred that more of this was dedicated to their professional innovations.

And while most of the women are worthy if not terribly intriguing subjects beyond their roles on Fifth Avenue, I’m not sure what I’m supposed to do with someone like Hortense. Like RIP baby doll, you would have loved Harrison Butker. Ick.

The best parts of this are more focused on shop innovations and backstory on things like the history of mannequins. I would have loved more on that and less of, say, Hortense actualizing her own personal success and then turning around and condemning women who came after who were trying to do the same.

This flows better and is more consistently readable than The Plaza, but it has a similar problem in that it fails to focus satisfactorily on the material that makes most readers take an interest in the book.

*I received an ARC of this book in exchange for an honest review.*

[Paula Korelitz · Rating 4 out of 5]

Satow takes us behind the scenes of some of the most glamorous department stores that ever existed in the United States and the women who ran them and made them great.

In an era when women were relegated to wife, teacher or nurse, these amazing women created stores that changed the way women shopped and dressed.

Satow’s book tells the stories of Hortense Odlum of Bonwit Teller, Dorothy Shaver of Lord & Taylor and Geraldin Stutz of Henri Bendel.

These women were pioneers in the field of retail, and they helped create the modern department stores we know of today.

[Karyn · Rating 5 out of 5]

Objective and rather fascinating topic of the department store era and the women who excelled in creatively fashioning an industry and running it through decades of innovation. The mall and the corporate conformist machine brought it to an end, but this meticulously researched and accessible book has revived a time and experience that I really knew next to nothing about.

[Jennifer Lafferty · Rating 4 out of 5]

Exceptionally well-written, informative and thoroughly researched book about female pioneers in the department store industry. This nonfiction volume entertainingly profiles several talented, innovative women during the twentieth century who went far above expectations in their careers, building or revitalizing major stores and often shaped the world of fashion. This is a must for anyone interested in fashion merchandizing.

[Jan · Rating 4 out of 5]

I don’t read much nonfiction. Typically, I gravitate toward historical fiction to educate me about the past. But it certainly is true that there are somethings you just can’t make up! This journalistic account was riveting in a way a novel never could be. It is a well-documented story of the evolution of the American department store, told through the lens of three remarkable, dissimilar women. It was an eye-opening account of fashion, women in the workplace, free flowing creativity and the history and mores of the time.

I didn’t grow up in New York City but memories of my childhood came rushing back as I read. My mother took me to The CITY to school shop once a year. While our mainstays were Gimbels and Alexanders, rather than Lord & Taylor and Bonwit, we always took a peek inside the grander places. And we looked forward to the delight of Lord &Taylor windows at Christmas.

In my hometown, the stores didn’t have the elegance of the stores of this book, but even so, they were welcoming. It was like entering a world of possibility. My grandmother took me to one unforgettable store. The make-up counter featured dozens of jars of powders in various shades of browns, purples, rose and the saleswomen made up a powder or foundation perfect for your skin, right on the spot. I hadn't thought about that in years.

I was enchanted with the inventiveness of what the featured stores had to offer women.

The book centered on three department stores: Bonwit Teller, Lord & Taylor, and Henri Bendel. All were bastions of male control and flailing until the women in this account took over. While their backstories, personalities, and ambitions were all different, the impact they had was the same. This was woman country and respect and understanding of both shopper, designer, and worker would bring success.

The three featured innovators couldn’t have been more different. Hortense Odlum, a contented housewife and mother was called to Bonwit Teller by her husband and his business associates to make changes that would attract more shoppers and in short order was at the helm; Dorothy Shaver, an elegant innovator created a space for American designers in a time when American stores only copied French designs and became the first American business woman to earn more than a millionaire’s salary; and fashion editor, Geraldine Stutz, re-invented the look of the modern department store and had a keen sense for trends and forecasted style, making her and her store both unique and incredibly successful.

The book meticulously documents the rise and fall of the department store in context of the times—the biases toward women in the workplace, racial inequities and inroads, the changing times and how they impacted the success and ultimate failures of these women. Rooted in the lives of these three women, the story unfolds to give us a snapshot of this history. It made me want to click my heels and walk through their doors, have a cup of tea and savor where we were when shopping was an event.

My only negative comment is the title. I’d like something more reflective of the style and courage of these women.
Highly Recommend.

My thanks to Doubleday and Netgalley for allowing me to read this advanced copy in exchange for an honest review.

[Emily · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book made me realize that while I enjoy vintage fiction set at department stores, I'm not interested in fashion per se.

Also, the title is a bit inaccurate, given that the author tells us multiple times that the three women profiled were anomalous for their day. The "sidebar" stories, brief accounts of other women in retail beyond the author's big three, felt a bit random, and in most cases, their stories didn't take place in New York.

Relieved to have finished.

[David Asche · Rating 2 out of 5]

Meh.
The only thing that kept it from being one star, was some of the intriguing history aspects that the author clearly did a lot of research on. Aside from that this book is fairly disjointed, hard to follow at times, and doesn’t seem to have a clear sense of direction of what the book is trying to convey.
It’s not really biogeography, kinda historical, definitely from a liberal authors point of view, and just not that interesting.
If you took out the title, the author’s notes at the end and a little bit of the beginnings, I probably would’ve described this book as something a fashion nerd might enjoy about a niche aspect of American fashion history. Or a business history nerd might enjoy about the aspects of how shopping has changed over years.
Although I think the author‘s real intention was to highlight women in business, and the struggles they’ve had historically to be treated equally and the uphill battle to be successful in business. I just don’t think she did a good job at that.

[Kayla · Rating 4 out of 5]

Loved!!!!! This was my July audio book and I FLEW through it. Fun fact about me I have a degree in fashion merchandising and spent a lot of time in school studying the retail landscape/history. This was right up my alley. It’s a history of the golden age of department stores in Manhattan and the iconic women who ran them. So good. Informative and entertaining I loved it.

[Sarita Williams · Rating 4 out of 5]

How I wished I was alive during the golden age of retail stores! This was a lovely glimpse into how department stores were so much more than just a place to shop. For women it was a place to socialize, have autonomy, explore career options, and a place to get away. Further proof that women rule and men ruin everything.

[Brooklyn Carson · Rating 4 out of 5]

so interesting to see how women were able to excel in the fashion world since the beginning🥹 got a long line of smart ladies who paved the way for girls in fashion now, best career ever🥹❤️ makes me excited to be back in nyc also hehe

[Toni · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this well researched book about three women who each ran the big three department stores in NYC. Some appointments to managerial positions were almost by accident, others grew into their jobs.

These women not only took over the helm, they increased profits by changing the store from top to bottom. Little shops within the store dedicated to designers, companies and style. Women loved it.

Personally, it brought back wonderful memories of my HS girlfriends and I, taking the bus in from NJ to shop or look, at these major stores. While Saks overwhelmed me, Bonwit Teller was just the right size. (I’ll never forgive The Donald for buying Bonwit just to tear it down and put up Trump Tower.)

If you love history and fashion, plus the marketplace, you’ll definitely want to read this fantastic book.



Thank you Edelweiss and Doubleday.

[Elizabeth Mignano · Rating 5 out of 5]

Such a well researched book - I loved learning about these women 🥰

[Laura · Rating 2 out of 5]

It had potential, but it really felt more like reading a book report on these women.

[Marianne Burke · Rating 3 out of 5]

Slow but interesting book about 3 very different women who ran 3 retail establishments. Their challenges and successes.

[Robin · Rating 4 out of 5]

I went into this not knowing much about the fashion industry, but having gained a recent interest in various aspects of it. I feel I have learned a lot more about the American roots involved and I enjoyed the stories of the women who before now I'd never heard of, but had such an impact on American fashion from it's birth. Very enjoyable!

[Amanda Witt · Rating 5 out of 5]

This was so fun and fascinating I could read 15 more books on the topic. Bring back the heyday of department stores

[Susannah · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting but not my fav. Tbh thought this was gonna be historical fiction but that’s on me

[Bruce McClure · Rating 4 out of 5]

There was a time when department stores were places of wonder, where beautiful clothing and objects were on sale and salespeople were both plentiful and helpful. Maybe you remember going to such a store with your mother or your grandmother, when it was an occasion; possibly you even had lunch or tea there, or watched as your mother or grandmother had their hair done in the salon right inside the store.

If you're too young to have done so, and your impression of department stores is what we experience in today’s world….I am so sorry that you missed it. I remember going into Boston with my mother to Jordan Marsh, and coming home with a box of their freshly baked blueberry muffins tied up with baker’s twine as a treat for coming along. Years later, I would work for the company that purchased JM, getting to live the differences between the department stores of my childhood and the present day. By that time, retail stores had already changed a great deal from the heyday of the early to mid 1900’s, but there were still some touches in place that harkened back to those times.

In this book, I learned more about the influence department stores had on society, and that society had on the stores (particularly when it came to women) during those years, as well as the story of several women, three in particular, who had leadership roles at three of these iconic stores. They took different paths to reach those positions and had differing motivations for the career each would have.

Through much of the twentieth century, retail stores were one of the few places where women could have a lifelong career with opportunities for advancement. As someone who is still currently in that business, I was intrigued to learn about these women and others who made their mark in a pre-women’s liberation world, who had insight and created a vision that revitalized their companies and provided a trail for other women to follow.

For readers who are interested in the world of fashion and/or department stores, in the history of New York City in the 1920’s through the 1970’s and beyond, who enjoyed watching Mad Men or Selfridge’s, I encourage you to give When Women Ran Fifth Avenue a try.

4 stars--I was concerned with some of the editing and had to reread several passages for more clarity.

[Cassidy Christensen · Rating 3 out of 5]

probably a little harsh, on the edge of a 4. Would’ve enjoyed even more fashion history. Got into it after a while, but slow start for me

[Michelle Kenneth - PerfectionistWannabe.com · Rating 4 out of 5]

Excellent research. Learning the stories of the stores I used to frequent before they closed their doors forever just makes me appreciate the items I was able to purchase there.

When I first moved to NYC, Lord & Taylor was my go-to. In later years, Henri Bendel became my favorite store. I still carry the handbags I curated from the store.

I appreciate the stores even more now that I know that women were the reason for their success. It's funny how when men took over, trying to dictate what women wanted, the stores ultimately failed.

This book was well researched, and there was so much information. I absolutely loved learning the history of NYC fashion on 5th Avenue.

[Bridgey McElroy · Rating 3 out of 5]

tbh, structural failure. This book had so much potential, but it fell so flat because all of the jumping around was distracting. The stories of Dorothy, Geraldine and Hortense were all fascinating in their own right, but I wish they had been told separately in three parts, or even chronologically? I don’t know man, but this wasn’t it. I literally couldn’t for the life of me determine where in time or space I was at any point.

Bummer of a miss, because it covered a really cool subject and really badass girlies. Also, justice for Hortense I FEEL for that chick.

Happy to have the little historical context and knowledge that I managed to take away, but overall would not rec.

[Emily · Rating 4 out of 5]

Minus the Les Wexner and DJT jump scares, this was a really fascinating look into the lives of 3 very different women, a glimpse into the rise of American consumerism and influence, and a surprisingly atmospheric experience! I love a department store, am sorry to have never experienced them in their heyday, and was very intrigued by their depiction here as vehicles for upward mobility and freedom for women that nonetheless stayed relevant through a philosophy of exclusiveness and exclusion

[Cindy Burnett (Thoughts from a Page) · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved this one - a pure delight from beginning to end as well as super informative.

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