The gripping story of a group of female adventurers and their treacherous pioneering ascent of Denali in 1970
Grace Hoeman dreamed of standing on top of Denali. The tallest peak in North America, the fierce polar mountain loomed large in many climbers’ imaginations, and Grace, a doctor in Alaska, had come close to the top, only to be turned back by altitude sickness and a storm that took the lives of seven fellow climbers in one remorseless blow. Other expeditions denied her a place because of her gender, and when a letter arrived from a climber in California named Arlene Blum, who’d only been invited on expeditions if she would stay at base camp and cook for the men, Grace got a defiant she would organize and lead the first-ever all-female ascent of the frozen Alaskan peak.
Everyone told the “Denali Damsels,” as the team called themselves, that it couldn’t be women were incapable of climbing mountains on their own. Men had walked on the moon; women still had not stood on the highest points on Earth. But these six women were unwilling to be limited by sexists and misogynists. They pushed past barriers in society at large, the climbing world, and their own bodies. And then, when disaster struck at the worst time on their expedition, they could either keep their wits and prove their mettle, or die and confirm the worst opinions of men.
Author Cassidy Randall draws on extensive archival research and original interviews to tell an engrossing, edge-of-the-seat adventure story about this forgotten group of climbers who had the audacity to believe that women could walk alone in such extraordinary and treacherous heights.
Very good book that takes us inside the first All-Female ascension to the summit of Mt. McKinley/Denali back in 1970. Educational and insightful as to the conditions surrounding mountain climbing and how women were considered too weak to make this assault on the largest peak in the US. Interviews, journals and articles tell us about the story of each of the women and how they struggled for acceptance, as well as themselves to reach this milestone. Unfortunately these ladies are mostly lost to history, but author Cassidy Randall has done a great job in helping us understand their motivations and inspirations. To quote the words on WWE Hall of Fame announcer, Jim Ross, these ladies were "Double Tough" to put it mildly. Very good read.
It took me a while to get into it, and I still couldn't keep all the climbers' personalities straight in my head until they were near the summit, but the story of the climb and descent was gripping. The author put it well when she said that these weren't sinners or saints on the classic hero's journey, but normal (well, for some definition of normal... They were all pretty amazing) complicated people attempting an audacious goal while also battling all of the complications of their own lives and histories. It is sad that they weren't given their due in their time. I'm glad someone took the time to research and write this book so hopefully they get it now.
So, I listened to the audiobook and may have rated higher if I read it. The accomplishment of the “Denali Damsels” was a very cool piece of history and worthy to be recounted and recovered.
However, there were repetition of statements over and over again, with little variation throughout the entire book. In particular:
-This was a male dominated sport/field and the women were not accepted; men disbelieved a woman could do it. This was explained again and again each time as if it were the first time we were learning about this fact.
-Explaining the basics of mountaineering gear repeatedly as if it was the first time we were introduced to something like crampons. Explaining the mechanics of how they worked at the near end of the book (which had already been explained multiple times) just made the book slow down and seemed unnecessary.
The biggest problem with that is that it made the storytelling feel monotonous and could have flowed so much more quickly.
Again, I will say that it could have been the sedately voiced audiobook version that lent to this effect more greatly and pronounced. Could have been a 5 star book but as written couldn’t go higher than a 3 and really would put it at a 2.5.
Picked up this book after visiting Denali NP this summer and seeing the magical Mt. McKinley irl 😱
Every time I read a mountaineering book I’m like why would anyone want be this cold/tired/sick/exhausted/almost dead on purpose?? It’s wild and crazy and I love reading about it from the comfort of my couch.
The Denali Damsels are iconic. It was inspiring to read about the challenges they faced as female alpinists and the lengths they went to prove they absolutely did not need a man to summit Denali. QUEENS!
A truly impressive group of women, become the first women to summit Denali in 1970, with little fanfare. Harrowing and heroic, glad to have made this climb from the comfort of my home;)
A historic achievement occurred on July 6, 1970 when a group of six women became the first all-female team to reach the peak of a mountain higher than 20,000 feet when they reached the summit of Denali. While they were not one of the first females to reach this peak (Barbara Washburn was in 1947), it was still an amazing accomplishment. The stories of each of the women and the harrowing experience they had while climbing are told in this excellent book by Cassidy Randall.
All six women – Grace Hoeman, Arlene Blum, Margaret Clark, Margaret Young, Faye Kerr, and Dana Isherwood – were established climbers with various amounts of experience. Grace organized this team after losing her husband Vin to the mountains and failing to reach the peak of Denali on an earlier attempt. Her experiences and determination to reach the summit makes for excellent reading, even if a bit slower than the later parts of the book. This is also the case for the other five women – all have excellent stories about their mountaineering experience and their personal lives captured by Randall.
At this time, mountaineering was a sport dominated by men and overcoming the sexism and belief that women were not capable of scaling such mountains was a huge motivation factor for the “Denali Damsels” as they became to be known. It was such a strong belief for them that at times they would refuse assistance from other climbing teams’ male members because they felt by doing so, it was reinforce the incorrect notion that women could not accomplish this without assistance from men. This view about female climbers was pervasive at this time and that is a topic visited frequently by Randall. It really makes the accomplishment even more impressive.
While the stories of each woman were great to read, their climb up Denali was even better. Randall wrote this part of the book much like an adventure novel, complete with drama and subplots. Will the team make it? Will Grace, who became extremely ill, survive? Will the team overcome their differences and squabbles that inevitably hit all climbing teams? This latter question was especially noteworthy given the way they assembled and their different backgrounds and nationalities. And of course, we know the answer to the first question. That doesn’t take away the excitement a reader will experience when picking up this book about a extraordinary achievement that is finally getting the recognition it deserves.
I wish to thank Abrams Press for providing a copy of the book via NetGalley. The opinions expressed in this review are strictly my own.
I wish I could have devoured this book in just one day, but alas, life had other plans for me.
In 1970, Grace Hoeman, Margaret Young, Dana Isherwood, Arlene Blum, Margaret Clark, and Faye Kerr set out to climb Denali (then called Mt McKinley) in Alaska, the first women climbers to do so. Even in the late 20th century, there were few spots available for a woman climber on various expeditions, and those that did allow women relegated them to cleaning and staying at base camp, insistent that the women were far too weak and/or hysterical (thanks to their periods) to summit.
Every time I read about a man saying a woman cannot possibly do a thing because of the strength involved, it boggles my mind. For one thing, men and women come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. There are plenty of women taller and stronger than the average man, and even for the less tall among us, the inherent strength of women because of our ability to carry a baby to term, and then to physically carry the child with us for the next 3 years should make it clear to any man how strong women can be. It’s infuriating.
This account of the 1970 McKinley International Women’s Expedition, as it was formally known, gripped me from the first page. I’m an avid reader of many books on various expeditions, and some of them suffer from a long, involved account of who paid for what and how much and the ways they secured said funding. Instead, Randall focuses on the women themselves, who they were and why they were interested in joining Hoeman’s expedition. Once I got to the section where the women began climbing, I really didn’t want to put the book down. It is disheartening, however, to read about how .
I know some folks may get frustrated with the constant barrage in the first half or so about the straight up misogyny that these women endured, from not even being allowed to join climbing clubs or even take shelter in a cabin simply because of their gender. As Randall writes in Chapter 4, “Arlene could not come because the presence of a woman would ‘be unpleasant high on the open ice, not only in excretory situations, but in the easy masculine companionship which is so vital a part of the joy of an expedition.’” So other words, the presence of a woman may spoil all the boys’ fun? BAH. Absolutely mind-blowing, and what makes it even worse is this expedition took place a mere nine years before I was born.
As a fascinating story of a successful climb up an intimidating and dangerous mountain, this book truly delivers. And I will never see the photo featured on the cover again in the same light.
Fascinating backstory, barrier breaking women, a harrowing journey, lots of info on mountaineering…glad I stumbled onto this one. (Minor pet peeve, the feet/meters conversion every single time.)
Women’s accomplishments in mountaineering are under-documented, and books like Thirty Below not only put these stories on the map but also add nuance and texture to women’s experiences in the mountains. Thoroughly researched and rigorously written, this book chronicles the Denali Damsels’ ascent, but also gives us a window into the lives of these tenacious and bold climbers. I read this book quickly, especially the final third.
For all their imperfections, these women are real, and Randall depicts them as such. She handles their stories through truth-seeking, fairness, and the assumption that we can’t really know what transpired or happened, or what may have been motivating any one person.
Regardless of it being a story about a trailblazing group of women, Thirty Below is an important addition to the canon of mountain literature, full stop. It was a pleasure to read.
“The Denali Damsels had proven women were capable of climbing the big mountains of the world. But there was still a long road ahead in fully integrating women into mountain culture. Often the act of reaching the goal or accomplishing the feat is the end of the story. Rarely is the downhill side of such peaks much a part of the narrative, although it’s all part of the journey, in mountaineering as much as other arenas, including feminism. Even when new goals were reached for women’s equality - voting rights, equal pay, equal employment opportunity - there was still the monumental amount of work to be done on the downhill side of victory in turning those achievements into cultural reality.”
Thirty Below recounts the 1970s expedition of the first all-women team to summit Denali. The first half of the book dives into the individual stories of each climber, detailing how their unique paths and life experiences eventually converged to form the Denali Damsels. I really enjoyed learning how these women discovered climbing, built community, and came together to pull off this expedition.
As a climber myself, I especially appreciated the technical details woven throughout the story of their ascent. It was interesting to compare the gear and techniques of that era with the practices we use today. The book offers powerful insights into the evolution of mountaineering and into the often overlooked contributions women have made to climbing history. Reading their perspectives deepened my appreciation for the sport and for the resilience and of the women who helped push its boundaries.
Amazing hidden history of an incredible, complex group of mountaineers - the first documented all-women group to summit Denali. Not only did they climb the intimidating mountain, they endured eye-rolling sexism. Reading about incredible outdoor athletic feats is incredible. This was made all the more impactful by highlighting the many facets of being women doing these incredible feats - men were real insecure about that.
Six very different women from different continents band together through their love of mountaineering to climb Denali. After years of being refused access to the "boys climbing club," they set out to make this historic climb to prove that women can be strong too. Very interesting and with some fascinating twists.
This was an amazing story of strong, adventurous women! I couldn’t help but be surprised at the lack of public attention this achievement received, and I appreciate the ground they broke for the rest of us.
I knew men were sexist toward women in mountaineering, but reading about the specific examples was mind boggling.
This was a very well written account about complex women climbing an incredibly difficult mountain. Inspiring in some ways, but it didn’t inspire me to want to climb Denali.
Following the journey of the first all women’s team to ascend Denali (Mt McKinley) in 1970, this book gives deep insight into the mountains, team dynamics, and the harsh realities of the frozen wilderness. I did not know the ending of this true story before reading the book and was on the edge of my seating waiting to know if the women were successful and all stayed alive in the process.
Like adventure, suspense, and the outdoors? This book is for you! Although I was repeatedly reminded how much I hate the cold as I read each chapter.
Working through a curated list of books about or written by strong women who have conquered odds, I found myself reading Thirty Below.
I loved the first part of the book, which included a great deal of history of feminism and misogyny in the climbing world.
I also really enjoyed the story of the women’s climb on Denali.
Things I did not like:
- In the end, the leader of the effort makes the disingenuous claim that they did not do this for feminism or to prove any point. She says they made the climb, because they wanted to climb the mountain, and if it benefits other women, that’s just a side effect. When, in fact, the very idea was born of the need to prove women could do it, because they had all been turned down from joining various climbs run by and composed of men. This kind of segues into my next issue with the story.
- Internalized misogyny was rampant, especially with Grace and Dana. They both behaved like men. Grace, in particular, treated the other women, and nearly ruined the effort doing so, just like the men had. I do understand first wave feminism had this fault, but it really smacked you in the face in this story.
- Extreme climbers and other similar ‘conquering’ type mega-sports like this claim to be in it for the journey, but it really seems (based on their own words and actions) to be about the end result, and the goal, not the process at all. In fact, it’s so important to summit that you will nearly die (and some do) for it. You don’t get 100 metres from the summit and turn around, because conditions are unfavourable and say “wow, great journey”. Rather, it is an obsession with getting to the top. That’s all fine and good, but I take issue with two results of this: 1) rescues that are required (which take resources from communities where people who aren’t deliberately putting their lives in danger may suffer as a result of resources being devoted to climbers… also rescues that cost the lives of rescuers, as we have recently seen happen in east Asia 2025) and 2) waste on the mountain. There is no thought or worry over leaving an entire mound of what will amount to garbage if you simply can’t make it back up/over/down to the place you left it. Leave no trace? That goes out the window when you have a mountain to summit!
I might sound like I am ranting, but it’s my review so I guess it’s my prerogative! :)
I am glad I read the book. I learned things, and the Denali Damsels certainly deserved to finally have their story told. It was a grave injustice that it took this long!
There's Type One Fun and Type Two Fun; this book goes into what must be Type Eight or Nine: absolutely nothing fun about it, not even in retrospect, nor reading about it several stages and decades removed. So, don't read this for the fun aspects, unless you're one of those who enjoy HACE and frostbite and pushing beyond human endurance in alpine storms. Read it for the grit; for the determination and strength these women showed in the face of constant obstacles. By which I mean, misogyny and intentional roadblocks by males everywhere. (The mountain, in some respects, seemed gentler).
Read it for insights into leadership under pressure--and the opposite, how extreme altitude and adverse conditions can transform a poorly-performing team into near disaster. Male teams could pick and choose their members from a large pool, replace when personalities clashed. In 1970 there weren't many elite women climbers; this team didn't have the luxury of kicking out assholes. And although most of the team were good people, some were not (or, to be fair, they were not at that time) and they repeatedly imperiled the lives of the others. I was riveted by the team's decision-making processes, their mistakes and the consequences thereof, their subsequent decisions. I'm someone who is mindful of team dynamics; this book really drove home some important points that, I hope, will make me a better person.
Read it for inspiration. These women were remarkable. It's thanks to them that we now live in a world where woman have equal access and opportunity in all fields. [Ed note: this review made it back via a wormhole, from a future time in which this is true thanks to YOUR efforts. Keep strong!]
Like so many books these days, editing was lax. Repetition and padding galore: did we really need to be reminded yet again what crampons are, thirty pages before the end of the book, or (over and over) that air is thinner at higher elevations? "Arlene, Dana, Margaret, Faye, M.Y., and Grace finished packing": what ambiguity could there be in shortening to "They"? These seem like nits, but they accumulated.
Thirty Below is an utterly gripping account of courage, endurance, and sisterhood that kept me turning pages long into the night—I devoured it in just two days. From the very first chapter, the writing pulls you into the frozen, unforgiving world of Denali, where every step is a battle against nature and self-doubt. But what truly sets this book apart is how it weaves the ascent with the rich, personal histories of the women who dared to attempt the unthinkable.
Each climber’s backstory adds depth and dimension to the narrative, making their collective journey not just a mountaineering feat, but a deeply human one. You come to understand what drove each of them to the mountain—from personal loss to proving their strength in a male-dominated field—and this emotional layering makes every challenge they face on Denali feel that much more intense and meaningful.
The pacing is swift and immersive, with just the right balance of adrenaline and reflection. Whether you’re a seasoned climber, an armchair adventurer, or someone who simply appreciates powerful stories of perseverance, Thirty Below has something for you. I highly recommend it to everyone—male or female, young or old. It’s more than just a survival story; it’s an inspiring testament to what women can accomplish together when they defy the odds.