As a schoolboy in the early 1990s, Siddharth Kapila began accompanying his devout and intrepid mother on numerous yaatras to sacred sites along the Ganga. In 2015, now a more sceptical young man, he decides to visit them on his own. And over the next seven years, as he journeys from Gaumukh, the source of the river in the high Himalayas, to Ganga Sagar, where it meets the Bay of Bengal, he realizes that he isn’t simply exploring his mother’s faith—the faith of tens of millions of Hindus—but also his own.
Up in Gangotri, he meets renunciant babas who share with him their life stories and their meagre food. In Kedarnath, a sadhu tells him how the Shiva temple miraculously survived the devastating floods of 2013. At Badrinath, he attends a family friend’s marriage to Vishnu, to undo a defect in her horoscope. Walking from Haridwar to Rishikesh with the kanwariyas, many of whom have travelled hundreds of kilometres on foot, he sheds his disdain for these young men often accused of bullying and aggression. In Allahabad—now Prayagraj—he tries to parse facts about the Naga sadhus from legend as he watches them perform astonishing feats of strength. Ancient Varanasi offers diverse experiences, from a bhang-induced revelry on Mahashivratri to conversations on the occult with Aghoris, who tell him why they sometimes feed on the dead. In between, he visits Bodh Gaya, where he prays to Shiva at the Mahabodhi Temple dedicated to Buddha.
Moving back and forth in time, Kapila reflects on the politics—and economics—of religion, the hypocrisy and bigotry of some of his fellow pilgrims, the opportunism of some sadhus and the integrity and compassion of others. And he reflects, too, on the resilience of people’s devotion, the great diversity of Hinduism, and the mighty pull of the Ganga, which keeps bringing him back to itself no matter how hard he reasons against the faith of his birth.
As much an entertaining travelogue as an introspective memoir, Tripping Down the Ganga is an unprecedented book on the everyday Hinduism of believers and non-believers alike.
In the heart of Rome’s Piazza Navona stands one of the city’s most famous fountains: Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, the ‘Fountain of the Four Rivers’. Designed in 1651 by Gian Lorenzo Bernini for the then-Pope, Innocent X, the fountain depicts the major rivers of the four continents where papal authority had spread: the Nile, Danube, Rio de la Plata—and the Ganges. For the average Western tourist, it’s an impressive sight, a grand spectacle. For the average Indian, too, it is that, and perhaps too an evocation of pride: this is our river, our Ganga. (It’s a different matter that Bernini’s Ganga is a muscular and heavily bearded man, not at all the makara-riding goddess Indians know her as).
But, inaccuracies and all, Bernini’s Ganga is an interesting reflection of just how vital this river is, how resoundingly a symbol of India. In Europe, which in 1651 still knew little of the exotic East, the Orient was exemplified by the Ganga; in India, it has been not just water, not just life, but more. Mother, saviour, purifier. The very heartbeat of India, the core of Hinduism.
It is this river that Siddharth Kapila sets out to trace in Tripping Down the Ganga: A Son’s Exploration of Faith. The book brings together Kapila’s travels along the Ganga: more specifically, to seven spaces situated beside the river that are the focus of yaatras or pilgrimages for Hindus. As Kapila explains in his introduction to his memoir, these journeys took place in two different time periods: one, in the 7 years between 2015 and 2022; and another in earlier years, when Kapila went on yaatras along with his mother.
These journeys intertwine through the book, the same spot—whether Kedarnath or Badrinath, Gangotri or Kashi—experienced at two different times. Kapila intersperses memories of less than a decade back with those of nearly 30 years ago, creating an interesting palimpsest of places, pilgrimages, people.
The people are what shine through bright and clear here, because it is their faith that takes centre stage. Kapila’s conversations, both with those around him and with himself, grow increasingly insightful and deep as the book progresses. He talks to holy men who brave ice-water baths in Gangotri; to Naga sadhus, the warriors sworn to protect the faith; to the formidable (and unsettlingly different?) Aghoris, who haunt the cremation grounds at Kashi. He discusses spirituality both with Westerners journeying through India, as well as his partner, a young Aghan edging towards Buddhism.
And, importantly, he dwells on the faith of his mother, a tax lawyer who is deeply devout and for whom her religion comes through as the fulcrum of her life. Many of the yaatras Kapila narrates are performed in his mother’s company, but there are other ways too in which she enters the narrative: in conversations, in her son’s views on organized religion and faith (often widely divergent from those of his mother’s), even in his discussion of the dichotomy that seemingly reveals itself in his mother. A hard-headed, clear-minded, utterly rational lawyer when she’s at work, but a believing, ritual-driven devotee when she’s not.
The faith in its many avatars, its many forms, shows up in diverse ways. For instance, the quiet devotion of the many people who give up their lives with family and home to turn sanyasi (and there are several of these in this book, including the Kapila family’s own Swamiji). But, in contrast to that quiet devotion, the boisterous and loud ‘masti married to bhakti’ which Kapila describes in context of the kaanwariyas who trek every season to the Ganga to draw water. Or, as he puts it in other descriptions too, the ‘Great Indian Free-For-All’: pushing, shoving, loud, exuberant devotees, making no bones about their religious fervour.
Tripping Down the Ganga, however, isn’t merely an exposition of the author’s own faith or the faith of those he encounters on his journeys; it is, too, a closer look at the religion, and at its intersection with other religions, other organized structures. At Hinduism’s fraught relationship with Buddhism; its even more fraught relationship with Islam. At the burgeoning (especially in recent times) of the connection between religion and politics, and the hidden realities of issues such as the Gyanvapi Masjid and the Kashi Vishwanath Corridor Project.
Part travelogue, part memoir, part introspection, this book manages to bring together many aspects of the Ganga and all that surrounds its status as India’s most sacred river. Kapila’s writing is conversational, occasionally even humorous. He makes no pretence to erudition (though his research is obviously solid and extensive), and there’s a sincerity, a clear-sightedness that shines through. It does not, however, dull his faith, and one gets the impression that this is an individual whose faith is unswerving, but not at the cost of his humanity: he straddles two worlds, just as his mother seems to do. That subtitle ‘A Son’s Exploration of Faith’, turns out to be a worthy tribute to Kapila’s mother.
To many, India and the Ganga are almost synonymous, and rightly so because the river has as many contrasts and contradictions as the country itself. On one hand, Ganga is revered as the Goddess who purifies, but on the other the river ranks as one of the most polluted in the world. If she is playful and wild at her source in the Himalayas, by the time she reaches the sea she becomes so slow and wide that it is hard to know where she ends and the sea begins. The contradictions are visible in the people who visit the Ganga- people who have renounced their earthly life and embraced spirituality, pilgrims who visit with deep devotion, people who come seeking answers or boons, and tourists who are looking for adventure. All these contradictions are brought to life in Siddharth Kapila’s “Tripping Down the Ganga”, which is part memoir, part travelogue and part and introspection on religion. The author has visited the seventh pilgrim spots mentioned in the book multiple times. Some of those trips were made as a school boy who tagged on with his extremely devout mother and participated quite reluctantly in the rituals. The second set of visits were made by the author as an enquiring adult who wanted to better understand what the river means to the many people who seek solace on her banks. The two timelines are intertwined seamlessly, with them both complimenting each other and setting up contrasts. It is this juxtaposition that really makes the places come alive. While the author describes the various pilgrim spots and the journey to get there, to me, the book is primarily about people and their faith. Contradictions abound even here. There is a young woman who is willing to go through a ceremonial marriage to Lord Vishnu to rectify a perceived defect in her horoscope, in the hope that it might salvage her relationship with a white man. There is the friend who hopes religion might help him reconcile his sexual orientation with societal expectations. There are the pilgrims who dine at a five star establishment and yet haggle with the rickshaw pullers who will get them to their destination. The passaged that resonated most with me were the ones that talk about the degradation of the Himalayas. In ancient times, the most revered spots of pilgrimage were located in inaccessible places to test the devotion of the pilgrims who make their way there. Does the same piety remain when helicopters and highways have made them easily accessible to anyone who can afford it? One questions the wisdom of creating all this infrastructure which extracts a heavy price in terms of increased seismic activity, frequent landslides and devastating floods. Kashi/ Varanasi/ Banaras is a city that the author keeps returning to in the book. He meets a vast cross section of people who live on the banks of the Ganga. He speaks about the changing face of the city. Through the stories of the residents, he describes how the warren of buildings and narrow lanes were destroyed to make way for a grander approach to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. Each of those buildings had their own alters with ancient Shivlings- is Hinduism itself metamorphosising from a religion where you have a personal relationship with God to a more community driven form of worship. Though the book does not pretend to be a thesis on religion, there are conversations with people each of whom propounds on their interpretation of religion. That the author has does a considerable amount of research is apparent, yet, what emerges is the continuous evolution of religious thought not just of the author but of the people he meets. At the heart of the book is Mummy- a super efficient tax lawyer who is also both religious and superstitious. Her contradictions are the contradictions inherent in India, which on one hand is trying to embrace the technological world and yet is falling deeper into superstition and ritual. What shines through in the book is the brutal honesty of the author. He is an upper caste male, who is upfront about his privilege. Instead of glossing over it, he describes his privilege and his biases himself, whether it is in describing how he slipped a ₹500 note into the right palm to get a better darshan, or when his partner gets a little irritated with him and accuses him of believing in religious ritual more than he let on. It is a rare person who will point out these inconsistencies himself, and the author does. The book explores many different themes, and will appeal to anyone who wants to learn more about present day India.
"Tripping Down the Ganga" by Siddharth Kapila is a thoughtful exploration of faith, identity, and the spiritual heritage of India through the lens of a personal journey along the sacred Ganga river. Kapila revisits the pilgrimage sites of his childhood, weaving his memories with new encounters as he questions long-held beliefs and reflects on faith's complex role in modern life. From the icy Himalayas at Gaumukh to the sacred waters of Ganga Sagar, Kapila’s path introduces readers to an array of fascinating characters—sadhus, Aghoris, and ordinary pilgrims, each offering unique insights into Hinduism’s vast and diverse practices.
What makes this book captivating is Kapila’s candid tone. He balances skepticism with curiosity, respectfully questioning religious norms while recognizing the compassion and authenticity in the people he meets. His writing is both humorous and deeply introspective, making the journey engaging and relatable. The author also touches on broader issues like caste exclusivity and the politics surrounding faith, inviting readers to ponder the nuances of belief in a secular world.
Through his experiences, Kapila portrays the Ganga as more than a river; it becomes a symbol of India’s cultural and spiritual complexity, a place where faith and doubt coexist. "Tripping Down the Ganga" is a compelling read for anyone interested in travel, spirituality, or the deeper questions of existence. The book’s balance of descriptive storytelling and personal reflection makes it a memorable journey, inviting readers to look both outward and inward.
This was my first time to read a memoir so heavily focused upon spirituality, faith and reflection. I really appreciated the detailed descriptions of the rituals, beliefs and stories of the Hindu faith that were shared about the areas Sid visited. As someone with zero knowledge of Hinduism and the languages spoken within India I really appreciated the time taken in clear explanations and translations.
Reading about religion for myself is a heavy focus, so I'd recommend taking time with this book to let everything sink in. I have visited India before and found humour and recognition within the rich descriptions of places, particularly Varanasi.
One thing I really loved was how the relationship between Sid and his mum was depicted. Without her, this book would not be the same, she comes across as a woman of strength and devotion within her faith, family and role as mother and lawyer. From a female perspective this is important and a joy to read about. Sid's honesty and openess about private topics (religion, love, childhood) were refreshing reflections to read about.
Very sadly the kindle version I purchased did not include any photographs which I do believe are within the printed copy.
Tripping Down The Ganga : A Son’s Exploration of Faith Siddarth Kappila
This is a wonderful book to come out in the holiday season. The author has managed by various means to penetrate deeply into a complex religion and an an equally complex social environment with a perceptive eye while making the process very inviting to the reader. Hid deeply detailed and documented travels through India and elsewhere provide an extraordinary depth of insight into the strengths and contradictions of religion in general. The love of daughters is contrasted to the general treatment of women. However, the pace of is never allowed to slow and thwart the reader. Clever use of language skips some of the formality to keep up the pace. Using the interaction of with family, friends, and the many people he meets in his journeys constantly refreshes the reader while providing of the variations of the different functions of religion in society that matches the variations of individuals and the equally variation of individuals over time.
As India emerges into a middle income country this variation will only increase. Seeing crowded shopping malls replete with Santa Clauses and their helpers makes this striking. Modern India and its institutions will change and yet stay similar in a complex pattern just as it has in other countries such as the United States while taking its own distinct pattern. Nowhere is is this more evident than in the ancient city of Varanasi. The author provides a tremendous variation of folklore and modern practice in a way that few outsiders could hope to experience. It is a situation where helicopters drop roses upon a religious gathering while elsewhere in the city there are unusual practices of sky-clad as well as the scholarship of the extremely educated believers sometimes both in the same individual at different times of their lives. The city itself has a complex history as discussed by such historians as Eck. It is both ancient and modern. The author makes this extremely clear and easy to absorb for the reader. I appreciate that the author does not evade some of the deeper controversies in Hinduism such as caste and the new Hindu separatism.
Throughout the author provides a remarkable detail of personal examples reflecting the length and breadth of religious thought and practice while not ever lapsing into scholasticism. There is a wealth of insights in this unusually expansive book in the form of a charming travelogue both geographic and personal development. Highly recommended. edwardseco
I never imagined a travelogue could turn out to be so evocative as if I am the one sitting beside the author as he takes us along the mighty Ganga. . In the book, Ganga, one of our country's most revered rivers is not just a body of water but a living entity that shapes the land, the people, and the culture surrounding it. Kapila here seamlessly integrates the spiritual with the practical. Further, he highlights the complexities and contradictions surrounding it — whether it’s the religious fervor of the pilgrims or the environmental degradation caused by human interference. . From the sacred ghats of Varanasi to the peaceful banks of Rishikesh, Kapila offers a window into the lives of the people who interact with the Ganga daily. Through personal anecdotes, conversations with locals, and reflections on his own experiences, Tripping down the Ganga portrays a diverse and multifaceted narrative. . To sum it all up, this book is an invitation to reflect on the meaning of sacredness in a rapidly changing world, allowing a fresh and different perspective on the Ganga, and how it establishes a profound relationship between people and places.
‘Tripping down the Ganga’ by Siddharth Kapila is a travelogue that takes you on a divine journey along the Ganges river. The book explores faith, beliefs, culture, spiritual values and much more. It is written so beautifully that it will immerse you entirely in itself. Reading this book was a very unique and divine experience. It will provide you vivid descriptions of various religious places and also personal experiences of the author. His encounters with religious people like pilgrims, sadhus and aghoris. The book is very enriching and thoughtful. The book is written in very simple and easy to understand language. I found the writing very personal and raw. The main essence of the book is that author has portrayed the Ganga as more than a river, he shows the cultural and spiritual value of the Ganga. It is indeed one kind of a book, which you should definitely pick up.
Some books entertain, some inform, and then there are the rare few that make you stop, sit with your thoughts, and wrestle with big questions. Tripping Down The Ganga is one of those.
Siddharth Kapila takes you on a deeply personal, often unfiltered exploration of faith - his own, his mother’s, and the many shades in between. If his mother is unwavering in her belief, standing firm in a way that feels almost fearless; Siddhartha is the seeker, the one questioning, wandering, and sometimes resisting. It’s this contrast that makes the book so compelling.
The section on the Aghoris is fascinating, but what really stayed with me were the conversations with Armaan, Samar, Suryadas, and others - where Siddharth grapples with what religion truly means. Who are we? Why are we here? Is it faith vs. science, or something more nuanced? He doesn’t give you answers… he lets you walk alongside him, questioning, doubting, discovering.
Though his writing is easy and engaging, this isn’t a book to race through. I took my time. Five days of reading, absorbing, and pausing to reflect. It reinforced what I’ve always believed, that faith isn’t a set of rigid beliefs but something deeply personal, sometimes messy, and ultimately, liberating.
A wonderfully thought-provoking read that lingers long after the last page. Highly recommend!
Siddharth Kapila's 'Tripping Down the Ganga' resonated deeply with me. It's more than just a travelogue; it's an honest exploration of faith, skepticism, and self-discovery. Kapila's journey along the Ganga mirrors my own complicated relationship with religion and my mother's unshakable faith. His willingness to embrace ambiguity and ask difficult questions is refreshing. The vivid descriptions of the pilgrimage sites and the memorable characters he encounters bring the journey to life. Even though I haven't been to these places, I could see them through the author's words. This book is a must-read for anyone who has ever struggled with their beliefs or sought a deeper understanding of their spiritual heritage. Happy reading!
‘What is Truth anyway if not fidelity to your feelings?’
Part memoir, part travelogue, “Tripping Down the Ganga” is also a wholly immersive examination of family and faith in contemporary India. Structured as a series of journeys to key pilgrimage sites along the river Ganga, this book opens a window to the many ways in which Hinduism is practised and perceived among believers and sceptics alike. At the centre of this fascinating book is a sceptic son's endeavour to understand his devout mother. Siddharth and his mother might hold divergent views on matters of faith, but their closeness is never in doubt, and it is this relationship that forms the narrative's emotional core.
At a time when Hindu majoritarianism is increasingly feeding into right-wing agendas or votebank politics, “Tripping Down the Ganga” offers us a glimpse of Hinduism as something much larger and more multifaceted than bigotry often reduces it to. Through Siddharth's eyes, we encounter aghoris and kanwariyas, pandits and sadhus, pious pilgrims and jaded tourists, each embodying and interpreting faith in a multiplicity of ways: whether looking for answers to deeply existential questions or even seeking solace or guidance or hope. Siddharth listens intently to them, careful not to generalize or impose his own views; he is aware of his privilege and willing to confront his own prejudices. He is also honest about how his own scepticism has limits, and confesses his ambivalence about the comfort he seeks in ritual or prayer when caught in the grip of crushing panic (as so many who consider themselves agnostics are also prone to do).
Particularly interesting for me was Siddharth's struggle to come to terms with his sexuality, and how this not only informs his experience of faith but also his relationship with his mother. (This latter aspect is something I wish the book explored further, not least because it raised more interesting questions about faith and sexuality.)
All in all, a deeply engaging and highly readable account, filled with fascinating trivia and astute observations. I don't often read a lot of nonfiction, but what kept me gripped here is how Siddharth embeds his personal narrative of family with the larger project of interrogating the idea of faith and why it means so much to so many.
To read Tripping Down the Ganga is to drift along the timeless current of faith and memory, where every ripple carries stories of belief, doubt, and rediscovery.
@kapila.siddharth ‘s journey along the sacred river is not merely a travelogue; it’s a pilgrimage through India’s collective consciousness and his own evolving relationship with faith.
What begins as a retracing of his mother’s devout yaatras soon unfolds into a deeply personal reflection on Hinduism in contemporary India.
Through his encounters with sadhus, Aghoris, pilgrims, and seekers, Kapila paints a vivid mosaic of spirituality — raw, flawed, yet profoundly human. I especially loved how the Varanasi chapters throb with life; you can almost hear the temple bells, feel the smoke from burning pyres, and sense the eternal hum of the ghats.
Kapila’s prose balances reverence with realism. He questions without dismissing, observes without judging — a rare sensitivity when writing about religion.
The mother-son relationship, tenderly woven into the narrative, adds an emotional core that grounds the book’s philosophical explorations.
Tripping Down the Ganga mirrors India itself — layered, chaotic, sacred, and ever-transforming.
Even when Kapila’s reflections turn inward, the Ganga remains an anchor — a reminder that faith, like the river, can bend, swell, and still flow unbroken.
A compelling read for those who find beauty in journeys — both spiritual and human — and for anyone seeking to understand the heartbeat of belief in modern India.
This book “Tripping Down the Ganga” written by Siddharth Kapila is a beautiful travelogue that will magically take the readers on a spiritual and personal journey along the sacred Ganga River.
Beginning from its source in the Great Himalayas and ending where the river meets the Bay of Bengal, this book is filled with fascinating encounters with sadhus, renunciants, and everyday pilgrims.
What makes this beautiful book stand out is how our Author mixes his own skepticism with deep reflections on faith and devotion.
Although he questions many religious practices and beliefs he also shows great respect for the people he encounters through his journey .
The author’s writing was very simple and easy to understand. I also found his writing to be very honest, personal, and at times even humorous, and it helped me to connect with his experiences easily.
This book also touches on larger themes like the politics and economics of religion, and the incredible diversity within Hinduism. And I was able to gain more insights on these themes.
Our author successfully manages to balance his personal journey with observations about the world around him, offering readers both an entertaining and thoughtful read.
Whether you are a believer or not, Tripping Down the Ganga does provide a unique perspective on spirituality and faith. It’s a great choice for anyone interested in travel, culture, and the deeper questions of life.
The author takes you on a journey filled with wonder and piety to various places along the banks of the Ganga, the ashrams and valleys, encountering several people, travelling with family members and friends. The scepticism which can naturally arise in any person not well versed with the many myths and religious traditions of Hinduism and the humorous anecdotes endear the reader to the narrative and has an immersive effect just right for a book of this magnitude. Well written without being sanctimonious, the author leads you from Kedarnath to Varanasi, giving geographical, historical, mythical and philosophical insight of the sacred Ganga, while trying to figure out his own way and path in the world. This is a heartwarming journey asking the right questions without imposing any answers . It is also a personal exploration for self-identity.
Tripping Down the Ganga, is a thought-provoking book, has led me to realize the significance of faith and religion in one's life. Through the author's experiential journey to seven sacred waters of Ganga pilgrimage, I've gained insight into the transformative power of spiritual exploration. India, with its rich cultural heritage, offers unparalleled opportunities for spiritual growth and self-discovery.
The author's spiritual transformation, inspired by his influential mother, is truly commendable. His journey weaves together vivid descriptions of temples, journeys, and encounters with sadhus and aghori babas. The book beautifully captures the essence of devotion, confidence, and humanity that exists along the Ganga's sacred waters.
Pilgrimages, as highlighted in the book, have the potential to profoundly impact on individuals. They foster devotion, self-discovery, and spiritual growth, making one realize that faith and religion are crucial aspects of life. The author's experiences have shown me that traveling to these sacred sites can be a life-changing experience.
The lessons and knowledge gained from such journeys are invaluable. The book has inspired to explore India's spiritual heritage and consider embarking on a similar journey. I appreciate how the author has shared his personal transformation, making the book an inspiring read.
Among rivers the Ganga occupies for Hindus a special place where she is personified as a mother and deified as a goddess. The author develops a very personal relationship with the river and describes quite vividly his experiences of journeys he made over several years to its sources and to sacred places along its course. On many of these he accompanies his devout mother while at the same time constantly questioning his own scepticism and seeking out people living on the river as well as others travelling there and engaging them in conversation. A blend of travelogue and personal memoir, it makes an enjoyable read, evoking Eric Newby's travel classic „Slowly Down the Ganges“.
Extremely fluid writing, this book has so much in store for both believers and non believers. An easily flowing book you can carry on reading without having the burden to find an appropriate time/place to be able to assimilate it. What struck me specially was how common questions were brought to light which may seem uncommon to any staunchly Hinduism following individual but are left commonly unaddressed in the minds of young Hindus. Definitely recommend!
I finished reading Siddarth’s travelogue and explorations last night. It made for easy reading. His narrative is not only entertaining and informative but in several instances quite gripping. Siddarth uses his superb command of the language to express his feelings with great honesty. Equally enjoyable is the way he shares aspects of his long, incredible and often arduous journey, moving seamlessly, to and fro, between time lines. Through dialogues, conversations and questions he grapples with Hindu beliefs and rituals to arrive at his own conclusions. In the process he brings alive a rich canvas of diverse thoughts and experiences. His effort to move away from conventional norms to find his own truth is courageous, and to be comfortable with it, equally admirable.
I have to admit I did look very hard for the ‘Shashi bashing’ that his mother, who features very frequently throughout the narrative, had called out to me before the book launch. What I found instead, is actually quite a humbling and mature tribute to the rich legacy of his mother’s unshakable faith and belief in rituals. Without any fear of reprisal, and with great candour he expresses his scepticism, questioning that inheritance, but in the end he builds upon it to arrive at his own reality.
Hats off to Siddharth for staying the course to clear the confusions in his mind, and even more, hats off to his mother for the patience and love we know she’s showered upon him through the years, giving him the confidence to think and be himself.
Siddharth, best wishes and congratulations for this wonderful book and I do want to add that, like many others, I too am eager for a sequel.
Reading this book has been a divine, educational, and amazing experience.
✨ Sharing some poignant quotes below:
- While my peers were putting down roots, I was seized by some opposite human instinct.
- The more foreign cultures I tasted, the more I yearned to dive deeper into my own.
- It's true what they say about Indian boys and their mothers. We really never do break away.
💙 Learnings: This book is a wealth of information. Some of my key learnings are the significance of each object offered to the Shivalingam during Rudrabhishekam, how Rishi Markandeya became a Chiranjeevi, Astika mantroccharana to make snake(s) go away, etc.These, and many more, are food for thought. I was left thinking, and waiting to read more to learn more!
💭 Thoughts: The mood is inquisitive and introspective. As the author contemplates the religious aspects and moments from his life, the reader is compelled to do the same.
The narrative is super smooth. Despite usually struggling to read books due to tech distractions, I was unable to put down this book long after my reading timer of 10 minutes daily had lapsed.
It's easy to read, is super interesting, and has the perfect mix of a youngster exploring his religious history, thus making it the perfect book to pick up the week before Diwali.
💐
Finishing this book during Mahakumbh is like taking a dubki in the Ganga river.
Wonderful, divine experience. You won't regret living it up.
This book is an evocative exploration of Indian faith, identity, and spirituality, set against the backdrop of the sacred Ganges River. Through a deeply personal pilgrimage, the author retraces his steps from his visits during his childhood to the holy sites along the river, blending nostalgia with new, profound experiences. Over seven years, his journey spans the entire length of the Ganges, from Gaumukh in the Himalayas to Ganga Sagar in the Bay of Bengal. Along the way, he encounters a rich tapestry of Hindu culture, meeting a range of compelling characters: sadhus, Aghoris, renunciates, and ordinary pilgrims. Each person he meets provides insight into the diverse and often enigmatic practices of Hinduism, shedding light on the spiritual and cultural complexities surrounding the river. What makes this book stand out is the author's honest, introspective tone. With an open mind, he questions religious conventions while respecting the sincerity and depth of the people he encounters. His narrative is filled with candid self-reflection, and philosophical musings, making it accessible to both believers and skeptics. The Ganges itself becomes a central figure—a symbol of India’s spiritual and cultural diversity. The river is not just a physical path but a profound metaphor, embodying the balance between devotion and reasoning. Each chapter brings new stories and insights as he moves down the river. From miraculous survival tales in temple towns to the esoteric rituals of Aghoris in Varanasi, every stop adds layers to his understanding of the river's significance in Indian life. As he examines the practices and beliefs of the people he meets, the author also raises questions about the political and economic dimensions of religion, acknowledging both the beauty and contradictions within his own faith. His thoughtful critiques of certain religious hypocrisies do not undermine his appreciation for the authentic compassion and devotion he witnesses. This balance between skepticism and reverence makes his journey deeply relatable, inviting readers to reflect on their own spiritual journeys. The book’s vivid descriptions of pilgrimage sites and colorful photos immerse readers in the experience, making them feel as if they are walking alongside him. The narrative is not just a recounting of places visited but a powerful introspective journey, as the author confronts his own beliefs and invites readers to do the same. Tripping Down the Ganga is both a physical and a spiritual journey, leading the way for readers to consider the nuances of faith, doubt, and self-discovery. The author’s willingness to ask difficult questions and embrace ambiguity makes this an unforgettable and transformative experience. For anyone interested in understanding Indian spirituality, grappling with their faith, or seeking insight into their heritage, this book offers a compelling and enriching perspective on the enduring power of the Ganges River as a source of spiritual reflection.
Siddharth Kapila's 'Tripping Down the Ganga' offers an engaging blend of travelogue and memoir, following the author's pilgrimage from the icy source of the Ganga at Gaumukh to its quiet meeting with the Bay of Bengal at Ganga Sagar. A seven year journey through the physical landscapes of India’s most sacred river and the spiritual landscapes of faith, culture and personal identity. His experiences are framed by his early travels with his devout mother in the 1990s, a contrast to his later journeys as an adult who holds a more skeptical view of traditional beliefs.
One of the most praiseworthy things about the book is the ability that the author paints a picture of the sites and scenes, the sounds and smells and the feeling of the river. Even in the calm and solitary Himalayas or under the quiet waters, or in the crowded and colourful ghats of Varanasi he has truly portrayed flavour of river. This quality makes the book especially rewarding for readers who enjoy armchair travel—the author's evocative prose almost lets you experience these destinations without leaving home.
Despite its strengths, it does have some limitations that detract from its impact.
• First of all the narration sometimes seems rather inconsistent. He flits from one time period and location to another at times compromising a smooth flow of the story. Such structure may be seemed to be effective to present his childhood and his attempts at telling the audience about his present day thoughts but such structure feel jarring for readers who prefer a more linear storyline.
• Another drawback is his inconsistent tone. On the plus side, what really makes the book fun is his humor and lightheartedness, but this often detracts from the gravity of certain themes when it deserves the focus.
• His skepticism toward faith practices is usually comes across as dismissive, and this is even intrusive when he is referring to the deeply religious individuals or communities. This may leave some readers feeling alienated, as the author's reflections occasionally border on cynicism.
In conclusion, it is a compelling read that provides an honest, though imperfect, look at the journey between skepticism and faith. His pilgrimage along the Ganga serves as a platform to discuss broader questions about tradition, belief, and identity. While the book’s fragmented structure and occasional cynicism may alienate some readers, others will appreciate its candid exploration of cultural heritage and personal doubt.
I would recommend it to those who enjoy reading reflective travelogues. While it can be found useful and thought-provoking by spiritual seekers, but those seeking a more reverent or in-depth spiritual perspective might find it lacking. Nonetheless, it remains a meaningful read that opens a window into India’s sacred landscapes, both external and internal.
"Tripping Down The Ganga: A Son’s Exploration of Faith" by Siddharth Kapila is a unique blend of travelogue and personal reflection. The book takes readers on a fascinating journey along the sacred Ganga river, where the author revisits the pilgrimage sites of his childhood with fresh eyes, questioning both his mother’s deep faith and his own growing skepticism.
Starting from the icy source of the Ganga in the Himalayas at Gaumukh and ending at the river’s meeting point with the Bay of Bengal in Ganga Sagar, Siddharth’s journey spans seven years and countless experiences. Along the way, he encounters sadhus, pilgrims, and the rich tapestry of Hindu culture and spirituality. Each stop on the river holds new stories—from miraculous survival tales of temples to rituals that blend devotion and mystery. Through his travels, Siddharth interacts with a range of characters: from renunciants in Gangotri to Aghoris in Varanasi, shedding light on their beliefs and practices.
One of the most striking aspects of the book is how Siddharth balances his skepticism with curiosity. He doesn’t shy away from critiquing the hypocrisies he sees in some religious practices, while also acknowledging the sincerity and compassion of many of the pilgrims and sadhus he meets. The book also provides deeper insight into the political and economic dimensions of religion, offering thoughtful reflections on faith, identity, and the cultural significance of the Ganga in Indian life.
As quoted in the book - “Believing in God was like falling from a great height. It was only when you fell off the earth that you actually felt gravity’s force. You could understand belief only when you allowed God to get into your bones. I realized then that I was indeed asleep, and dreaming, and falling.”
"Tripping Down The Ganga" isn’t just a physical journey, it’s an introspective one. Siddharth’s narrative moves seamlessly between his childhood experiences and his adult reflections, making it relatable for both believers and non-believers alike. The river Ganga, with all its spiritual and cultural power, becomes a symbol of the tension between faith and reason that Siddharth grapples with throughout the book.
Tripping Down the Ganga: A Son's Exploration of Faith is a fascinating travelogue documenting the author's travels experiences to the various sacred sites along the Ganga. Combining travel descriptions and author's discovery of his spirituality, the book is an exploration of faith and culture.
Having accompanied his mother as a schoolboy to various holy places along the river Ganga, the author decides to travel to the same sacred sites as a young man. Over the course of seven years, the author undertakes journeys to different places from Gaumukh (the origin point of the Holy river Ganga) to holy sites like Kedarnath, Badrinath to all the way to Ganga Sangar (the river's confluence point with the Bay of Bengal). What started as journeys became a exploration of author's spirituality and faith.
The book narrates several trips in the Himalayas over a period of 7 years, narrating the memorable experiences and the most fascinating people he met on his journey. From stories of mysterious rituals to interactions with Sadhus, Aghoris, fellow pilgrims and locals to some genuine insights about the place, the book is a collage of moments and memories; some enlightening, some thought provoking and some divine. More than the travel descriptions, the book is about the spiritual moments, the cultural heritage and meeting different fascinating people, making it an enriching experience. and through these experiences, the book takes the readers on their exploration of their spirituality.
The narrative switches between two time periods, from the 1990s and the mid 2010s, as the readers notice the fine shift in the author's observations. The author doesn't shy from taking a critical look at some of the religious practices and also at the economic and political aspects of some of the religious places. Having said that, the book always respects the devotion of fellow pilgrims. The tone is conversational with a pinch of humour, keeping the readers engaged till the end.
Overall, 'Tripping Down the Ganga' is enlightening read helping you introspect and gain a deeper understanding of religion and spirituality.
What stood out most were his inner reflections—his past memories and attempts to understand himself. These resonated with me deeply, as I, too, engage in similar inner conversations, questioning myself and seeking conclusions. For me, this book was more than a travelogue; it was a spiritual journey of the soul through the eyes of the author.
It a memoir and a travelogue, but it is much more than a plain journalistic account of his trips to seven major pilgrimage sites along the Ganga.
It recounts his journeys—or yaatras—from his thirties (2015–2022) and earlier years. It's his quest to find God—or "meaning"—a journey inspired by his devout mother since birth. Reading his experiences was like witnessing metamorphosis of beliefs and the wholesome exploration of spirituality.
He describes himself first as a habit-based follower—believing in faith yet sometimes questioning it, like an agnostic. However, his experiences from trips to Gangotri, Kedarnath, Banaras, and beyond ultimately transformed his perspective.
His conversations with people of different nationalities, who came from different walks of life were quite an experience.
The vibrant-rustic culture of the Ganga ghats, with yogis, babas, and aghoris in the buzzing lanes of Prayagraj, reveals the non-duality of life. His ability to weave in Indian mythology, such as the history of Gaumukh and the Kumbh Mela, the origin of kapaliks, and a vast range of topics while blending ancient and contemporary philosophies, alongside selected info from ancient texts and scripture even from buddhism is highly informative.
I admire his close relationship with his mother, who also guides him to open his mind to the universe's mysteries. The colored photographs of Gaumukh, Banaras, and babas in meditation added depth to the book.
Every chapter combines Indian history, civilization, sacred texts, and philosophy, showing that Hinduism is not just the oldest religion, not confined to a single scripture but flowing in the blood of millions. More than a faith, it is the philosophy of life to live by.
📗Tripping Down The Ganga : A Son’s Exploration of Faith by Siddharth Kapila
If you’re on the hunt for a book that transcends genres and offers a profound blend of travel, spirituality, and introspection, "Tripping Down the Ganga" is a title you can’t miss. As my first spiritual non-fiction memoir of 2025, it has left a lasting impression, offering a nuanced exploration of faith, self-discovery, and the intricate relationship between religion and culture.
The book consists of total seven parts. In these parts the author has accumulated his travel experience along with spiritual views and interaction of seven pilgrimage site along the Ganga, between 2015 and 2022. The author has put multiple aspects in this title from conversion with monks , philosophical theories, and lastly his own understanding of the particular place and thoughts. The inclusion of photographs is a thoughtful touch, adding an intimate layer to the storytelling by visually capturing the essence of his journey. All the parts and chapters in this title has its own important significance however I have enjoyed the part five where Siddharth has taken me to Varanasi. Here I would like to appreciate him for such a detailed description and make me travel through the city once again.
“Tripping Down the Ganga” is a book that speaks to readers of all kinds—whether you are a fan of travel memoirs, intrigued by the spiritual nuances of everyday life, or simply seeking a fresh perspective on Hinduism. It offers moments of introspection, instances of awe, and a deeply human understanding of faith and devotion. This isn’t just a book; it’s a journey, and one that I’d highly recommend embarking on.
I found Tripping Down The Ganga a captivating read.Primarily as it is authentic,poignant,evocative.Full of colour,sound and much soul searching.Additionally because all this quite resonated with me..this journey within and without . Siddharth describes his travels through the holy cities dotting the Gangabanks from its origin to its delta with a quest to resolve the ..primary questions that rack us sentient beings.Why are we here?And who do we remain when the layers are peeled off. The author takes you through these two narratives and navigates back and forth in time with adroit skill.Nothing escapes his eyes as he pens his narrative and he uses words with consummate skill to paint vivid pictures of both places and people. He questions and unravels himself with an unsparing thoroughness and absolute honesty.Questions,his ebullient mother’s beliefs steeped deep in religion,ritual and faith. Questions the myriad characters he encounters, on their experiential truth.And through all this he laughs with them ,at them and himself often.An undercurrent of kindness and acceptance never lost despite the scepticism at what he feels lacks logic and scientific explanation. Ultimately I feel in the process of searching both author and reader quite discover themselves. Well, I think I did in some parts. Hinduism despite the many’ isms’ is broad based and accepting .Much like the ambling Ganga.Managing to see divinity equally in an ant ,an elephant and a homo sapien Truth is elusive ,nuanced and subjective.Much like a kaleidoscope.And the relationship with a parent specially mother is organic and forms the core of the spirit. Sources used are all acknowledged and duly referenced.I can attribute that in part to the author being a third generation lawyer.But this third generation lawyer has definitely dished out a great book.and a wonderful read.
Some books feel like a warm conversation with a friend, the kind you have while sitting on a beach, listening to them open up about their life. That’s how this book felt to me—personal, honest, and deeply relatable. It’s not just about the author’s visits to different pilgrimage sites; it’s about the quiet struggle between belief and doubt, holding onto traditions while embracing change.
His mother's faith becomes a thread weaving through his journey, connecting childhood memories to adult experiences. As the author takes us to places like Kedarnath, Varanasi, Kashi, and along the Ganga, he shares his experiences with raw honesty, without sugarcoating the realities he encounters. He doesn’t shy away from pointing out sadhus or the domineering attitude of certain pilgrim groups. Having walked these paths myself, the book felt like a homecoming. Some stories made me smile with nostalgia, others brought tears. The simple, soulful writing pulls you in, making you feel like you’re right there, living each moment with him.
This book feels like a personal journey through faith, doubt, and the search for something bigger than ourselves. What truly stood out to me were the vivid snapshots of places and people, each chapter buzzing with life and color. It’s not just a travelogue—it’s a reminder that faith isn’t about having everything figured out, but about being open to the journey, even when it doesn’t make sense.
I loved the bond between the author and his mother. Her support through his struggles was moving, and his journey from agnosticism to a changed perspective felt deeply personal and inspiring.
If you’ve ever questioned your beliefs or wanted to truly understand the soul of India, this book will take you there, just like it did for me.
-A Journey Inwards- Review of 'Tripping Down The Ganga' by Siddharth Kapila
This is a story of chiefly a trifecta of themes dancing on its pages- religion, travel, and family. The author has painstakingly brought the three together in a smooth confluence that feels like reading a well-maintained, well-thumbed journal. Since journals are mostly secretive, here too, Kapila has an emotional ace up his sleeve (book spine?) A secret that comes out in the open and adds to the richness of the family, but rearing its head agaist the faith front, standing in conflict with the religious piety.
What do all journeys accomplish? What's their purpose? What's the goal? The destination or the road? Have we ever looked inwards as a person? Have we ever dealt with our demons or questioned our faith? Have we ever taken out our well-hidden skeletons from the secretive closets to dust them up and hung them out in the garden, out there for all family and friends to see? This journey here is as much inwards as it is outwards, snaking into the soul and settling there.
Being an atheist, some parts of the books ended up being overtly religious for me. The travel part made me carry on. The conversations about cast that Kapila has with the keepers of the religion at the pilgrimages are interesting. What made me almost fall out of my chair when the author pointedly asks a person in Kedarnath whether it was godly interference that saved the temple from destruction in the devastating floods? It felt like baiting but more than that it felt like someone who knows better trying to bolster and cement the superstitions of the centuries.
Kapila's love for his mother shines through. He fasts for her, never goes against her spoken word, goes on pilgrimages with her and keep her close to his heart. It's endearing and holds the story together, binding the various other themes.
QOTD: Have read travelogue's? Or do you like reading travelogue's?
I like reading them especially when I am unable to travel or go on a vacation. A well written travelogue has the power to take you on a journey from the comforts of your home. Tripping down the Ganga by @kapilasiddhartha is one such travelogue which took me on a pilgrimage from Kedarnath to Badrinath, Gangotri, Rishikesh, Varanasi. Ganga is considered our sacred most river and through this journey along the Ganga, author has tried to find the answers which many of us from (especially millenials) often have.
I loved how author has given the accounts of his travels to Kedarnath but at two different timelines: One when he was a teenager often taken on pilgrimages by parents for vacations and the other when he was an adult and wanted to explore the sacred place from a faiths perspective.
I could relate to this the most because it took me back to my childhood vacations where my parents took us mostly on pilgrimages. Not only that, I recently visited Mata Vaishodevi and I kept remembering my travels and could draw parallels.
It was like visiting all the places along the Ganga with the author, savouring it's beauty at the same time refreshing your old memories from your pilgrimages.
Apart from being a travelogue, it is book of journey of a man's faith, how our perspective into the divinity changes as we grow is portrayed beautifully and you relate to it on a different level.
It has further strengthened my resolve to visit Badri- Kedarnath and then Amarnath very soon.
I would recommend this every travel buff especially read it when you are actually travelling. I feel it would be a different experience. I will be rereading it when I take a journey to Kedarnath soon. Jai Bhole Baba ki!!! Keep reading!!!
There is a saying by Dalai Lama “Once A Year Go Some Place, You’ve Never Been Before”, well Siddharth Kapila’s “Tripping Down The Ganga” surely follows this quote. The book is all about the authors personal and spiritual journey all along with the flow of the sacred river of India: The Ganges which starts from Gaumukh in the Himalayas and ends in the Bay of Bengal.
The author has beautifully blended the cultural heritage, the people he meets in his journey, his pilgrimages, the sadhus he meets, his spiritual journey all into the book. The best narration has been the variations of encounters he has had while going through this journey. The authors description about the various rituals, traditions, culture, religious faiths gives the readers an instant connection as if we have been tagging along him. This book is not just a travelogue but it takes us deep into the beliefs and the depth of the Ganges in various locations. The descriptive about the landscapes, nature, the rivers is to read out for pulling the readers into a vivid imagination.
The people he encounters especially the Sadhus and the Aghoris and all the people who tag him along with the journey their depth for spirituality and their deep belief is to watch out for. Overall this book is an interesting read for all travel enthusiasts out there. The language used is simple, also keeping the content humorous and exciting thus making it an engrossing book for the readers.
The photos used in the book give us the real feel of the travel the author has undergone along with the mesmerizing background and the spiritual connection. If you are a travel enthusiast and also wanna know deep into our traditions, culture, rituals, belief and spiritualism, this book is your go to read.
If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to walk the line between faith and skepticism, Siddharth Kapila’s "Tripping Down the Ganga" is the journey for you. Kapila takes us along India’s holiest river, revisiting childhood pilgrimage sites from the icy origin at Gaumukh to the mystical Ganga Sagar, where the river meets the sea. But this isn’t just a travelogue; it’s an invitation to explore the heart of spirituality, tradition, and the questions that linger deep within us all.
Author’s path is filled with memorable encounters—a diverse cast of sadhus, pilgrims, Aghoris, and ordinary seekers who bring Hinduism’s rich, complex world to life. His style is both refreshingly honest and gently humorous, weaving in moments that will make you laugh, pause, and ponder. With a healthy dose of curiosity, he questions age-old practices and beliefs, all while showing profound respect for the people he meets along the way.
This isn’t a book that lectures; it’s a journey that invites you along to explore the landscapes and traditions of India. Kapila touches on the politics, economics, and social layers that shape religious life, bringing depth to his reflections. His words draw you into a world where faith, doubt, and cultural heritage blend, making the Ganga a symbol of India’s spiritual complexity.
"Tripping Down the Ganga" is more than just a book—it’s an adventure of the soul. Whether you’re a seeker, a traveler, or simply someone curious about life’s big questions, Kapila’s journey offers a fresh perspective. Grab this book if you’re ready to see the world—and maybe even yourself—in a new light.