Smooth: Movement Principles and Techniques for Climbing

by Xian Goh

This is a book about how to climb. It’s about the things elite climbers do almost without knowing they’re doing it (and would probably never think to tell anyone about). It’s about going beyond vague advice like ‘balance is important’ and showing you how to balance. It’s about developing a deep understanding of how physics and physiology affect you on the wall. This is about you growing into the climber you want to be.This is for all climbers seeking smooth and graceful movement. The topics covered will be most relevant for climbers who climb between sport 5 to 7b and/or boulder V1-V8.

The Big 5 principles of climbing movementA framework to help make sense of climbing techniquesTopics covered creating stability, generating movement, body positioning, slabs, overhangs, footwork, gripwork, breakdown of specific techniques, route reading and problem solvingEasy to digest explanations with over 250 images and illustrationsPut into practice with 77 technique drills, complete with video demonstrationsSelf-assess and build your own technique programme

Genres: Climbing, Nonfiction

Kindle Edition

Published September 13, 2024

Reviews

[Minervas Owl · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’ve skimmed several books that cover climbing techniques, but Xian’s book stands out for its systematic approach to climbing movement patterns. The framework it provides serves as a clear roadmap for training and improving technique inspiring me to finally dedicate time to practicing drills. I look forward to the volume 2 of this book, where Xian will cover more climbing techniques such as deadpointing and dyno.

[Matt Cocke · Rating 5 out of 5]

A superb analysis of climbing technique. It is very systematic in breaking down the techniques, in a way I've not seen before. I have noticed an improvement in my performance since trying its ideas.

Xian did not cover everything; she said she plans a second volume. I hope she does write it.

[Nora · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very systematic, a good read for beginning climbers looking to improve their climbing or anybody who believes climbing is all about “pulling with your arms.” Xian Goh’s videos on YouTube are also high-quality as well, particularly helpful to me since I’m also a short climber.

[Evie · Rating 5 out of 5]

Highly useful for explaining movement concepts to my clients. Photos really helpful as well!