Where the Falcon Flies: A 3,400 Kilometre Odyssey From My Doorstep to the Arctic

by Adam Shoalts

From Canada’s most accomplished adventurer and storyteller comes a gripping journey into the vastness of Canada’s landscape and history.

Looking out his porch window one spring morning, Adam Shoalts spotted a majestic peregrine falcon flying across the neighbouring fields near Lake Erie. Each spring, falcons migrate from southernmost Canada to remote arctic mountains. Grabbing his backpack and canoe, Shoalts resolved to follow the falcon’s route north on an astonishing 3,400-kilometre journey to the Arctic.

Along the way, he faces a huge variety of challenges and obstacles, including storms on the Great Lakes, finding campsites in the urban wilderness of Toronto and Montreal, avoiding busy commercial freighter traffic, gale force winds, massive hydroelectric dams, bushwhacking without trails, dealing with hunger, multiple bear encounters, and navigating white-water rapids on icy northern rivers far from any help.

In his signature style, Shoalts roams as much across space as he does time, winding his way through a stunning diversity of landscapes ranging from lush Carolinian forests to lonely windswept mountains, salty seas to trackless swamps, pristine lakes to glittering mega-cities, as well as the sites of long ago battles, shipwrecks, forgotten forts, and abandoned trading posts. Through his travels, he reveals how interconnected wild places are, from the loneliest depths of the northern wilderness to busy urban parks, and the vital importance of these connections.

Where the Falcon Flies invites readers on an extraordinary armchair adventure that spans five ecoregions and centuries of fascinating history, and is a masterwork by one of Canada’s most successful and audacious authors.

Genres: Nonfiction, Nature, Audiobook, Adventure, Canada, Travel, Memoir

368 pages, Paperback

Published April 29, 2025

About the author

ADAM SHOALTS is a historian, archaeologist, geographer, and Westaway Explorer-in-Residence at the Royal Canadian Geographical Society. Shoalts holds a PhD from McMaster University where his research examined the influence Indigenous oral traditions had on fur traders in the subarctic and Pacific Northwest. He is also the author of Alone Against the North, A History of Canada in Ten Maps, and Beyond the Trees, all of them national bestsellers. He enjoys long walks in the woods. Follow his adventures on Facebook and Instagram

Reviews

[Krista · Rating 4 out of 5]

I’d never been to the Torngats, but had long wanted to see these most majestic of arctic mountains. And there they were, labelled on the top right corner of the map, at the tip of Labrador and eastern Quebec. Staring at them now and thinking of the falcon I’d just spotted, a wild idea occurred to me: Why not get out my canoe, grab my backpack, and follow the falcon all the way to the Arctic?

Explorer, storyteller, and Fellow of the Royal Canadian Geographical Society Adam Shoalts returns with the account of his latest adventure: Paddling, hiking, and then paddling some more to trace the migration route of the peregrine falcon from his home on Long Point, Ontario to remote mountains at the northern tip of the Quebec/Labrador border; a backbreaking journey of 3400 km. Where the Falcon Flies is an engaging narrative mixing the details of a physical challenge few of us could accomplish along with the geography, history, ecology, and helpful inhabitants that he encountered along the way. I found the whole thing delightful, and although there’s a sense that Shoalts made this journey both “because it’s there” and because he was looking for material for his next book, the point he makes about the need for preserving greenspaces — for the benefit of migrating birds as well as for the mental health of humans — is beautifully illustrated by this account and I am enlarged by having read it. (Note: I read an ARC through NetGalley and passages quoted may not be in their final forms.)

I remarked to Paul how everyone I’d met on my journey so far, from the biggest cities to the smallest towns, from Lake Erie to the middle of nowhere, had shown me such utter kindness and eagerness to help.

“You know why that is?” asked Paul.

“No,” I said. In truth I’d never really thought about it, other than to think people in general are naturally good, warmhearted, caring sorts.

“It’s because you’re doing what we all dream of,” he explained.

I’m the kind of person who won’t go on a road trip without having hotels booked ahead of time, so it was wild to me that Shoalts — who was prepared with maps and satellite pictures and a GPS that would get him to where he was going — could paddle off into the wild, not knowing where he would make camp each night. Some stops were more urban — under the Burlington Skyway, along the Scarborough Bluffs, the busy port of Montreal — and some were in the hinterlands, but it seemed that just about everywhere Shoalts went, he would encounter folks who were interested in his journey and wanted to help him (Shoalts always refused a bed or a shower, but often, the drinking water and food that people insisted on sharing would come right in the nick of time). The adventure writing is exciting (navigating whitewater, playing dodgem with massive container ships, portaging around Niagara Falls) and the history of the areas he travelled through was organically shared (from rumrunners and witchhunters on the Great Lakes to forts and generals and furtraders along the St Lawrence) but it’s the wild landscape — the migratory pathway of the peregrine falcon — that’s the true star.

I reflected on all that I’d seen on my journey — the same journey, more or less, that the falcons make, albeit from the air. In my mind’s eye I visualized the protected waters of Long Point, the time-capsule-like forests of the Niagara River, the surprisingly rich greenspace hidden away in the GTA, the wonderful wildness of eastern Lake Ontario, the sanctuaries among the Thousand Islands, Montreal’s preserved forests, the swamps of the St. Lawrence, Cap Tourmente’s gems, the mountains of Charlevoix, and all the other places I’d seen leading up to these almost untrodden mountains. They were a reminder that all those little pockets of wildness are crucially interconnected, islands of habitat that falcons and other species depend on in order to make their annual journeys.

As green spaces are increasingly under threat — and especially here in Ontario where there’s simply not enough housing for everyone — it’s good to be reminded of why they need to be protected: not just for the well-being of the falcons and other species (although they do demand our concern) but for the well-being of us all. A wonderful read.

[Andrew · Rating 4 out of 5]

Classic Shoalts, made even more relatable by his journeys through the urban waterways of Niagara, Toronto, Montreal, and more.

Oh, and a testament to the kindness of strangers towards travellers in canoes.

[Tara · Rating 5 out of 5]

Ok so normally this is not my favorite genre, however this book had wilderness adventure, daring moments, tidbits of Canadian history, and a respect for those who can do this kind of journey. It was a good read. Recommend it to the outdoor adventure lover.

[Lisa Walker · Rating 3 out of 5]

Perhaps this book should have been called “1001 ways to die while travelling alone in the Canadian wilderness”
Not at any point in this book did I say wow - that sounds awesome - I’d love to do that. Nope - those mosquitoes and black flies and tornadoes and thunder storms and gusty winds and dangerous rapids can stay in those remote areas

[Sarah Miller · Rating 2 out of 5]

The most interesting bits were the ones describing interactions with other people. Unfortunately, the author tried to avoid other people.

[Adam Morgan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Diverse journey that started in the busy southern Ontario cities and ending in the arctic. Enjoyed the history and kind Canadians throughout.

[Magdelanye · Rating 4 out of 5]

if you're ever feeling cynical about the state of the world, some old fashioned travel might be the cure. p125

The kindness of Canadians when they see someone with a canoe is really a wonderful thing. p141

Adam Shoalts makes it all sound, if not exactly easy, than perfectly logical. The plan was to canoe from just down the street from his home on Lake Eerie following the theoretical flight path of a falcon, all the way to their nesting grounds in the Arctic.

The forecast had again called for 75k a mile winds (which normally rules out canoeing, but when journeying to the arctic one mustn't be too squeamish.) p130

Squeamish AS is not, and though he seems to excell in catastrosizing, hyper aware of all that could go wrong, his commitment is to go for it. His terrifying lists usually end with his looking at the bright side.

Seeing as I've gotten a lot more squeamish and certainly never did have the kind of robust strength of a true outdoors person, nor the stamina, it was enough for me to tag along with AS on his curious, glorious adventure. I won't follow his trail over the arduous terrain, saving myself from the huge effort, the uncertainty and the danger; the cold and wet, the hunger and the bugs. But I so appreciated the opportunity to live the wild journey along with him through this vivid account.

[Luciana · Rating 5 out of 5]

WOW!!!

What an incredible journey Adam takes us on leaving his home along Lake Erie to paddle, hike & then paddle again to the Arctic via Northern Quebec/Labrador area, into Nunavut in search of the nesting grounds of the Peregrine Falcon! You follow his trip going along Lake Erie, the towns around there, then through Lake Ontario into the St Lawrence passing huge metropolitan cities & freighters before venturing north, parking his canoe & then hiking through Northern Quebec into Labrador before finding a place to buy yet another kayak. The planning & studying that one must have to do to make this trip happen is huge let alone his endurance, physical strength & mental well-being to undertake this journey is phenomenal. Everything seemed to be so well orchestrated!

Well-written, with beautiful descriptions & historical documentations of the areas he passes through, this journey keeps you riveted. Going 3,400km by yourself, through areas of nothing but nature & vastness, trying to bring/pack enough food & water through terrible weather conditions is just incredible!

He was most appreciative of those he met along the way especially those who provided food & water when he was running out in the middle of nowhere. Those people probably made a huge difference in is survival & his well-being.

An excellent read!

[Kailey Montgomery · Rating 5 out of 5]

I reserve my five-star reviews for Adam Shoalts. I’d been saving this one for a camping trip but had to finished it before starting his next book and before seeing him speak again.

Adventures, history, Canada, birds and Adam Shoalts What more could a girl ask for.

[Donna · Rating 4 out of 5]

Once again Adam Shoalts, a modern explorer, has taken me along on his epic journey from Lake Erie to the Arctic!
I think that this is my favourite book so far (I expect that he'll write about future adventures). He seemed to talk more about how he was feeling each step and paddle stroke along the way. Perhaps it's that he's maturing as a writer.
Not only did Adam Shoalts describe his journey in detail he also gave me a history lesson. I learned more about Canadian history in this one book than I did in any school class. The information that he imparted meshed perfectly with where he was in the trip. The descriptions were matter of fact and entertaining.
This trip also seemed to have more human interaction. I loved reading about the people that he met along the way and the effect they had on his journey.
I highly recommend this book.

[Booknblues · Rating 5 out of 5]

I love books about journeys especially slow journeys. In Where the Falcon Flies: A 3,400 Kilometre Odyssey From My Doorstep to the Arctic, Adam Shoalts both canoes and hikes from the north shore of Lake Erie to the Torngat Mountains in the Canadian Arctic.

One fine day in early 2020 Adam was looking up to the sky and spotted a Peregrine Falcon. He thought about how cool it was to see this majestic bird, but also about it's incredible migration from where he stood to its summer nesting in the mountains of the far northern Quebec and Labrador. Then he thought that he would love to follow their route and see one nesting in the Torngat mountains.

He was primed to do that but 2020 got in his way. After getting through the Pandemic he set out to do just that.

Here he lets us in on why Peregrines are so cool:
"Given their superb hunting abilities, for at least three thousand years wild peregrines have been caught and trained for use in falconry; that is, sport hunting for their human captors. In the Middle Ages, when falconry was a popular sport among kings and nobles, the gift of a wild falcon was sometimes made on important occasions of state, and peregrines became a symbol associated with aristocracy. It was said medieval knights valued their falcons as much as their swords."

I appreciated how Shoalts told the story, giving much details about the dynamics of his trip and his day to day struggles, taking the time to focus on the history of places he passed by, the landscape and the wildlife. Unlike some others whose journeys I've read he doesn't dally around much because he has so much ground to cover. While he doesn't spend time getting to know local people he does have interchanges with them which are insightful.

There were times in his journey in which I was on the edge of my seat and wondering "What are you thinking, doing that?" Even though I knew, obviously that it would all turn out.

I really loved this book and plan to read more by him.

[Kent Carter · Rating 5 out of 5]

Just plain enjoyable. Like Adam's other books, makes you want to stuff the book in a good backpack and go find a place he writes about it to read it.

[Siobhan Fahey · Rating 4 out of 5]

Felt like a love letter to Canada’s landscape, history, and most of all, people!

[❀ Susan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Living in Southern Ontario, it is hard to imagine a 3400 canoe trip to the Arctic starting at Long Point. This feat made for awestruck reading and leaves me feeling a bit incredulous. I appreciated hearing about the challenges, the beauty, the landscape and the wildlife as the author searched for the nesting grounds of the peregrine falcons. The book was well-written and I look forward to meeting the author at my local library when he visits in November.

[Sarah Mansour · Rating 2 out of 5]

As I read this book I began to retitle it ‘A book of complaints about every person who talked to me during my poorly researched canoe trip from southern Ontario to the Arctic’, but I guess that’s a bit long.

[Read Walk Repeat · Rating 4 out of 5]

Always a pleasure to read about Adam’s adventures. Rich with Canadian history and vivid imagery of the surrounding nature, he paints a picture of both the awe inspiring and the intimidating (think swarms of black flies, large carnivorous animals, and unforgiving landscapes). This adventure was a little different than the other books I have read by the author as this trip had him traveling through many areas where nature meets human settlements, adding many stories of heartwarming encounters with curious and encouraging onlookers. If you like memoirs about adventures in nature, I highly recommend this book.

Thanks to Netgalley, Penguin Random House Canada, and Allen Lane publishing for the opportunity to read & review a digital ARC of this book.

[Margi · Rating 5 out of 5]

This author undertakes a hair-raising feat of endurance. There’s lots of description of the natural world, plus just the right amount of historical background. His strength and perseverance are remarkable.

[Becky Stevens · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really liked this book. Adam is a great storyteller and narrator and I found this book very entertaining. It was the first of his books I have read/listened to and now I want to read the rest.

[Christian · Rating 4 out of 5]

the power of a canoe to stave off starvation

[Miranda · Rating 4 out of 5]

I enjoyed this book more than expected, though it lacked the mental and emotional depth which I believed would have intrigued me more. The info and facts about the Niagara region were interesting but slowly eventually bored me as he would talk about the umpteenth battle that happened at this point in the river.

I am giving this four stars because despite those missing aspects, it's an easy read and puts you in a good mood.

[Juanita · Rating 4 out of 5]

Ok, I'm hooked - (on reading these adventures not doing them 😆) Adam starts paddling his canoe from Long Point, Lake Erie and makes his way up to the Arctic. More than once I felt anxiety as he describes the rapids, bears, and so many bugs. Also very cool to see how many strangers helped him along the way, making his journey and survival possible. I enjoyed the photos and the maps of his journey.

[Michael Casteels · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is the 3rd book I’ve read by Adam Shoalts, and it’s another incredibly well-written/well-documented travel/adventure book. In Adam’s previous books his journeys are begin in such remote and distant places that I’ve got only got nebulous notions of where (geographically) he starts and ends. In ‘Where the Falcon Flies’ his journey starts with a canoe in Lake Eerie. Parts of his early trip have him canoeing past or even camping in places that I’ve walked before (beneath the Burlington Skyway or Cobourg or my current home of Kingston, Ontario). It’s neat to see these urban places in his travels, and to see where he ends up at the end of his trip. It’s also interesting to see the challenges he faces in these disparate landscapes… the difference between finding a suitable camping location outside of Toronto as opposed to Northern Quebec, or the anxiety and apprehension he feels canoeing through busy ports and how he almost feels more comfortable setting up camp in bear country. Some of these details make this book unique in comparison to his other books.

Adam is a great writer, and I often wonder how meticulous his note taking is while he is actually on his trip. He gives such detailed descriptions of each of his campsites, or the landscapes on certain days. I feel like some of those details would start to blend together, especially after 3 months of travel.

Shoalts is also an incredible optimist. If you count up every time he uses the phrase “on the bright side…” you’ll find he’s really got his head in a good place when he’s trudging through clouds of mosquitos, or suffering from blisters after days of hiking in cold and wet conditions.

Something I’d like to have read more was some of his internal journeying… What was it like being a father of a 1 year old and being away, alone, for 3 months? Was this something that made parts of the journey more challenging, or was it something he had to try and consciously put out of mind, or something that simply had to take a backseat because of difficulties he was facing at any given time? I understand why he might not want to include these details, but I (as a father of a two year old, and as someone who loves solo-backcountry trips) would have been interested in.

I’d also liked to have seen more detailed maps of his early trip. There’s a basic map of his overall trip at the beginning of the book, but it’s not very detailed. The last 3rd of the trip does have some detailed maps at the beginning of each chapter. Having these to start every chapter would have helped place the reader exactly where he was in each location… maybe these were held back so as not to encourage anyone else to attempt such a harrowing trip, or because in some locations he may have been trespassing? Either way, these are details I’d love to have seen.

Overall, this is a beautifully written book, and really compelling read. Adam is an incredible canoeist, brilliant writer, and engaging public speaker. I’d definitely recommend this book to outdoor enthusiasts, folks interested in local Canadian History, or people who are interested in a story of willpower and determination overcoming distance, hardship and crummy weather!

[Jarrod · Rating 5 out of 5]

Audible review -
Once again, Adam Shoalts makes for excellent company as he recounts another epic journey to Canada’s far north. This time, his goal is to locate and see first-hand the nesting places of the fastest animal on earth, the Peregrine Falcon.
Adam canoes his way (and hikes too) through the waterways of eastern Canada, from the southern point of Lake Erie to the far northern reaches of Quebec and all the way to the Arctic circle.
Along the way he sprinkles his narrative with succinct and informative tales of Canadian history associated with the current environment he’s journeying through. As well as the many encounters he has with some truly kind and generous individuals along the way. The number of people that Adam happens to come across that helped him along on his journey, in some cases when he desperately needed it, is an incredible testament to the generosity and warmth of the human spirit. This was an unexpected yet poignant and inspirational side to this adventure that made this listening experience a life-affirming one.
And it’s not always sunshine and rainbows….Adam has numerous encounters with Canada’s wildlife, faces many life threatening situations in his travels and even survives one of the worst storm’s ever recorded in Quebec’s history.
As always, Adam’s reading is utterly charming and self-effacing. All while keeping the listener completely engaged and even, at times, enthralled in Adam’s journaling of his quest.

[Chris · Rating 4 out of 5]

As much as anything I enjoyed the stories of the people that Adam met along the way. The historical perspective that the author adds to the landscape makes me want to revisit places like Niagara, Quebec City and the St. Lawrence. You have to give the author a ton of credit for traveling in very challenging circumstances and what seemed to be perpetual cold and rain. The fact that he never seemed to face any real emergencies speaks to his competence and experience in the outdoors although he does maintain a healthy respect for the land and it's animals. Having recently met the author made the story all the more enjoyable. All in all a great read!

[Andrew · Rating 5 out of 5]

An outstanding study of humanity and nature. Shoalts' adventures give readers an insight into the human and physical geographic landscape of Canada, which provokes a profound sense of wonder. Shoalts' perilous trek helps show readers the familiarity one can find across such a vast expanse. From portages to rapids, hikes to cliffside climbs, Shoalts work is for everyone hoping to better understand Canada, fast and slow.

[Nancy · Rating 4 out of 5]

I have never thought about the idea that the age of exploration is still happening in Canada. Adam Shoalts takes us on his canoe journey from Lake Erie to the Arctic to find where the Peregrin falcon nests and breeds. This book is so interesting, and not just for how he manages 3400km through freighter filled waters, locks, bugs, portages and rapids, but also for the history and science he explains along the way. Right after I finished listening to the audiobook that Adam reads, I went to straight to you tube to watch videos of his other epic canoe adventures. Exciting reading and watching!

[Barb McLeod · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this book and as I read, I followed his route on Google Maps, from Long Point, Ontario to the Torngat Mountains in the Arctic. I love the way he related the history of the areas he passed through and described the terrain. A very challenging journey! I appreciated his love of the outdoors and optimism.

[Izzy Baehr · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is the amazing story of Adam Shoalt’s journey on canoe and foot from Lake Erie to the Canadian Arctic, following the migration route of the peregrine falcons.

Shoalts is beyond hardcore - it’s hard to wrap my head around how difficult this journey would’ve been.

I also learned a ton about Canadian history and geography in this book, and found it very entertaining (he’s very funny).

[Erin Storey · Rating 4 out of 5]

Being an adventurer myself (although not quite to this degree), I was inspired by Adam’s attitude and bravery through his solo trip to the arctic. He seemed to always have a very positive attitude to every situation, which is admirable because hunger and cold and bugs can take you down when you’re out in the desolate solitude with miles before you. I loved the historical stories he weaved in and all the beautiful and generous people he met along the way, which gives me hope. How Adam managed to avoid all major disasters is beyond me .. were these edited out or does he just have some major luck up his sleeve? Either way, it was fun to join him on his adventure .. though repetitive at times with almost too good to be true vibes. I’m not a dramatic person but I was left wanting more drama in this book!

[Damian Kidon · Rating 4 out of 5]

Another Adam Shoalts book done. Learned some cool history in our very backyard. Adam doing what most of us dream of doing. Its amazing to see all the kind people along his journey that will do anything that they can to support him, from a cup of Tim’s to their own food supply.