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Rome and a Villa: A Masterful Collection of Sketches on Roman Life, Art, and Italy's Beauty (P.S.

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“These essays gather up Rome and hold it before us, bristling and dense and dreamlike, with every scene drenched in the sound of fountains, of leaping and falling water.”  —  The New Yorker “Perhaps the finest book ever to be written about a city.” —  New York Times Bringing to life the legendary city's beauty and magic in all its many facets, Eleanor Clark's masterful collection of vignettes, Rome and a Villa , has transported readers for generations. In 1947 a young American woman named Eleanor Clark went to Rome on a Guggenheim fellowship to write a novel. But instead of a novel, Clark created a series of sketches of Roman life written mostly between 1948 and 1951. Wandering the streets of this legendary city, Eleanor fell under Rome's spell—its pace of life, the wry outlook of its men and women, its magnificent history and breathtaking contribution to world culture. Rome is life itself—a sensuous, hectic, chaotic, and utterly fascinating blend of the comic and the tragic. Clark highlights Roman art and architecture, including Hadrian's Villa—an enormous, unfinished palace—as a prism to view the city and its history, and offers a lovely portrait of the Cimitero acattolico—long known as the Protestant cemetery—where Keats, Shelley, and other foreign notables rest.

416 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 1952

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About the author

Eleanor Clark

13 books8 followers
Eleanor Clark (July 6, 1913–February 16, 1996) was born in Los Angeles and attended Vassar College in the 1930s. She was the author of the National Book Award winner The Oysters of Locmariaquer, Rome and a Villa, Eyes, Etc., and the novels The Bitter Box, Baldur's Gate, and Camping Out. She was married to Robert Penn Warren.

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5 stars
11 (22%)
4 stars
13 (26%)
3 stars
15 (30%)
2 stars
8 (16%)
1 star
2 (4%)
Displaying 1 - 8 of 8 reviews
Profile Image for Deb (Readerbuzz) Nance.
6,460 reviews336 followers
July 13, 2025
I'm not sure how I came to put this book on my Classics Club list, and I was delighted to see it pop up for my Classics Club Spin, but it was a huge disappointment. The book is a collection of essays written by the author after World War II about Rome and a villa near Rome. I found the information to be outdated and the opinions to be harsh. Probably just me.
Profile Image for Asya.
131 reviews26 followers
July 11, 2015
Travel writing at its best. Witty, learned, a fascinating walk through the city and its history, yes, but also its atmosphere and its soul. No one like Clark and maybe James to make the city into such a vivid character for all of us armchair travelers and lovers of the city alike. Clark's prose is so rich and full of surprises it's its own monument, so read it by all means to discover Rome, but read it foremost to discover Clark.
Great review with some biographical background here, http://www.newcriterion.com/articles....
Profile Image for Fred Jenkins.
Author 2 books29 followers
March 8, 2023
This is a famous book, well-reviewed when it came out, still highly recommended back when I was in college. It has marinated on my shelves for quite a while. And now, a great disappointment. Clark writes in a random, stream-of-consciousness, frequently run-on sentence style that I find quite off-putting. She often tends toward the epigrammatic (think Martial, but all of the epigram, none of the humanity). Sometimes she devolves into mere catalogs, e.g., for the fountains and palaces of Rome. These can grow quite tedious. She can be a judgmental Yankee. Sometimes she is lacking in aesthetics of language: Cesare Borgia is called Caesar Borgia; just doesn't sound right. Sometimes the problem is as simple as wordy descriptions of buildings or works of art where a picture would be better. I mostly just skimmed the last part of the book.

Clark covers Rome of all periods. "Roman Journal I" covers mostly ancient remains, II mostly Renaissance with a nod to the early Christian. One whole chapter, "Salvatore Giuliano," is devoted to a Sicilian bandit who had nothing to do with Rome or the Villa. The long chapter on Hadrian's Villa has its moments (a few), but is mostly a nastygram on Hadrian himself. "Beside the Pyramid," an addition to later editions, is largely about the English in Rome, particularly Keats and Shelley. The final chapter, is devoted to the Roman poet G.G. Belli. At least that brought back fond memories of a college Latin professor, the late and wonderful Carl Trahman, who would quote stretches of Belli in his course on Roman satire.

I gave this three stars more because of its reputation than my enjoyment. It may be the sort of thing you like, if you like that sort of thing.
Profile Image for Mark.
Author 5 books58 followers
February 2, 2011
Quite a step down from Clark's brilliant, later book "The Oysters of Locmariaquer" (which I read first), "Rome and a Villa" still has moments of quirky grace and insight, but it mostly seems unfocused and labored next to the sustained complexity and beauty of Clark's later work.
7 reviews
May 17, 2022
Couldn't read it. Out of date, hard to follow, not the style of writing I enjoy. Very pretentious.
Profile Image for Mike Violano.
352 reviews18 followers
August 21, 2021
The city is the museum when you’re in Roma as author Eleanor Clark describes the Eternal City circa 1950 and years past. This book of travel essays, or travel journal entries, is hard to assess. There are highlights especially the early discussion of the Campidoglio, the seat of government of ancient Rome designed by Michelangelo. The chapter on Hadrian’s Villa is also interesting, very informative and rich is historical details. There are also long boring stretches of disjointed notes about fountains, palaces, saints and martyrs, stairs, and church windows and ceilings. In the author's view the archeology of Rome gets two thumbs up but the Vatican and Renaissance art and artists are mostly ho-hum. Clark visited Rome countless times from childhood to late in life. In a preface written in 1974 she laments about all the sad changes in the city—traffic, smog, disrespect of statues, and the days of glory past. However, everything tends to fade somewhat when returning to any wonderful ancient city like Rome after your first glorious encounter.
4 reviews
September 28, 2021
Oh my gosh, glad others liked this but I am really struggling. If a picture is worth a thousand words then how I wish she’d had a small album. Remarkably dead book; endless descriptions of ruins; no people. The character of the author remains opaque though surely terribly boring…
Profile Image for Peggy.
114 reviews
June 17, 2009
love this glimpse of being a foreigner living in rome in the 50s.
Displaying 1 - 8 of 8 reviews

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