Fashioning the Body: An Intimate History of the Silhouette

by Denis Bruna (Editor)

A witty and stylish look into the mechanics employed by men and women to sculpt their figures for fashion

This unique survey offers fascinating insights into the convoluted transformations employed by both men and women to accommodate the fickle dictates of fashion. With high design, wit, and style, Fashioning the Body tracks the evolution of these sartorial devices—from panniers, crinolines, and push-up bras to chains, zippers, and clasps—concealed beneath outer layers in order to project idealized figures. Women’s corsets constricted waists; exaggerated buttocks and hips counterbalanced jutting bust lines; and chic, aerodynamic silhouettes compressed breasts and flattened bellies. Yet masculine fashion has been no stranger to these tortuous practices. Men flaunted their virility by artificially broadening their shoulders, applying padding to their chests, and slipping codpieces over their groins. With more than 200 beautiful illustrations—including reproductions of superb historic advertisements—Denis Bruna reveals the industry and art of these contrivances meant to entice and beguile as well as assert status and power. Contemporary haute-couture designers Thierry Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier, Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons, Christian Lacroix, and Vivienne Westwood are featured in this indiscreet tour of intimate fashion history. 

Published in association with the Bard Graduate Center

Exhibition Bard Graduate Center, New York
(04/03/15–07/26/15)

Genres: Fashion, History, Nonfiction

272 pages, Hardcover

First published September 23, 2014

Reviews

[Christina Shelley · Rating 3 out of 5]

A small disclaimer to explain my rating: I read this book for the historical explanations, rather than the details of how different fashions were constructed. For instance, the cultural values that motivated the rise and fall of the corset were fascinating to me, much more so than the drawn-out accounts of the materials involved. Hence my rating. If you're more interested in fashion itself, you'll likely enjoy this book more.

[Goldkehlchen20 · Rating 5 out of 5]

The book is comprised of many different articles, each concerning one particular aspect of changing the silhouette through clothing. The articles are short and easy to read and give a great overview about the subject, accompanied by very high quality images. My personal favorite was a pair of padded mens stockings: I hadn't come across any picture-evidence for this phenomenon so far! All in all I enjoyed this book very much.

[Olosta · Rating 3 out of 5]

Thiw book has beautiful illustrations and detailed pictures of historical clothing items that do not often come to light when discussing fashion (corsets or or codpieces, for example). This alone would get a full 5 star. But- and it is a great but- the accompanying text leaves much to desire. The essays sometimes read as a cmlumsy translation (from French, perhaps? the pictorial emphasis and text references lie on french fashion), the text lacks in consistency and is at places rather shallow. It also refers to ilustrations which are not in the book, which is sometimes confusing. For this reason, I give the book "only" 3 stars. Nevertheless, it is still worth reading!

[Nancy · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fantastic photographs of an exquisite selection of garments. What a treat to have men's bodies and fashions talked about as well as women's. The essays feel a little too broad to be engaging. (Or, for some reason I didn't want to give them my full attention.) This is the examination of fashion (via scultpure of the body) I have been waiting for!

[Rose · Rating 3 out of 5]

Great illustrations and interesting text that covers men as well as women, but sometimes seemed a little thin.