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Denali's Howl: The Deadliest Climbing Disaster on America's Wildest Peak
Denali’s Howl is the white-knuckle account of one of the most deadly climbing disasters of all time.
In 1967, twelve young men attempted to climb Alaska’s Mount McKinley—known to the locals as Denali—one of the most popular and deadly mountaineering destinations in the world. Only five survived.
Journalist Andy Hall, son of the park superintendent at the time, investigates the tragedy. He spent years tracking down survivors, lost documents, and recordings of radio communications. In Denali’s Howl, Hall reveals the full story of an expedition facing conditions conclusively established here for the first time: At an elevation of nearly 20,000 feet, these young men endured an “arctic super blizzard,” with howling winds of up to 300 miles an hour and wind chill that freezes flesh solid in minutes. All this without the high-tech gear and equipment climbers use today.
As well as the story of the men caught inside the storm, Denali’s Howl is the story of those caught outside it trying to save them—Hall’s father among them. The book gives readers a detailed look at the culture of climbing then and now and raises uncomfortable questions about each player in this tragedy. Was enough done to rescue the climbers, or were their fates sealed when they ascended into the path of this unprecedented storm?
In 1967, twelve young men attempted to climb Alaska’s Mount McKinley—known to the locals as Denali—one of the most popular and deadly mountaineering destinations in the world. Only five survived.
Journalist Andy Hall, son of the park superintendent at the time, investigates the tragedy. He spent years tracking down survivors, lost documents, and recordings of radio communications. In Denali’s Howl, Hall reveals the full story of an expedition facing conditions conclusively established here for the first time: At an elevation of nearly 20,000 feet, these young men endured an “arctic super blizzard,” with howling winds of up to 300 miles an hour and wind chill that freezes flesh solid in minutes. All this without the high-tech gear and equipment climbers use today.
As well as the story of the men caught inside the storm, Denali’s Howl is the story of those caught outside it trying to save them—Hall’s father among them. The book gives readers a detailed look at the culture of climbing then and now and raises uncomfortable questions about each player in this tragedy. Was enough done to rescue the climbers, or were their fates sealed when they ascended into the path of this unprecedented storm?
273 pages, Kindle Edition
First published May 15, 2014
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About the author
Andy Hall
1 book22 followersLifelong Alaskan Andy Hall is the author Denali’s Howl, The Deadliest Climbing Disaster on America's Wildest Peak, a non-fiction account of the tragic 1967 Wilcox Expedition. Andy lived in Mount McKinley National Park as a child; his father was superintendent there when the accident occurred. Andy holds a bachelor’s degree in journalism from the University of Alaska Anchorage, and has enjoyed a long career in Alaska as writer and editor, working at several small newspapers and for 16 years as editor and publisher of Alaska magazine and general manager of The Milepost. In addition being an author, he is a commercial salmon fisherman in Cook Inlet and a ski coach at Chugiak High School. He lives in Chugiak Alaska with his wife, Melissa DeVaughn, and their two children, Roan and Reilly.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 376 reviews
October 24, 2015
Despite, or maybe because of my hysterical fear of heights (it's difficult for me to even climb a few steps up the ladder to change light bulbs), I love reading about mountain climbing disasters. A lot of people will be comparing this to Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster, and that's understandable. Both are about a mountain climbing disaster. But that's about all they have in common, and that's ok. While Andy was present at Denali at the time of the disaster, he was only 5 years old. So his recounting of the event is based upon historical documents, notes and interviews with survivors and rescuers. His personal relationship to the park superintendent (his father) and others bring a more personal feel to this account. With a 12-man expedition, plus other individuals that got invovled later, there's a lot of people to keep track of. That was one weakness. Also, since I'm not familiar with Denali, it's geography and such, maps detailing the route the parties took and where the bodies were located would have been a big help.* Still a great read!
* I later discovered that at the very end of the book - after the Notes and Index, there was indeed a map, as well as pictures. Wish these would have been placed earlier so I could have referred to them while I was reading. (I was reading the Kindle version.)
* I later discovered that at the very end of the book - after the Notes and Index, there was indeed a map, as well as pictures. Wish these would have been placed earlier so I could have referred to them while I was reading. (I was reading the Kindle version.)
June 11, 2018
True story of the ill-fated Wilcox Expedition that climbed to the summit of Denali in 1967. Twelve climbers set out; five returned. The author, Andy Hall, has a personal connection to the tragedy. He was five years old at the time, and his father was the park superintendent. The author has done a good job of assembling the puzzle pieces to suggest what happened to the climbers during the mega-storm that blew hurricane force winds over the high peaks. He tells the story in a journalistic manner and throws in interesting peripheral information about mountain climbing, meteorology, and what has changed in the past almost 50 years to make climbing safer. He also includes a touching tribute to his father.
Hall pulls together research and interviews into a compelling account. He comments on the transience of human memory, as many of the accounts differ as to the specifics of what happened. I felt the author sifted through all the information to come as close as possible to figuring out what happened. My primary issue with it is that the audio sounds like a dull droning documentary. The narration improves toward the end and includes more voice inflection, but I feel I would have appreciated it even more if I had read rather than listened to it. Content warnings include descriptions of bodies, explanations of the many ways death can occur in conditions of extreme cold and altitude, and a bit of profanity. Recommended for readers interested in mountaineering and its history.
Hall pulls together research and interviews into a compelling account. He comments on the transience of human memory, as many of the accounts differ as to the specifics of what happened. I felt the author sifted through all the information to come as close as possible to figuring out what happened. My primary issue with it is that the audio sounds like a dull droning documentary. The narration improves toward the end and includes more voice inflection, but I feel I would have appreciated it even more if I had read rather than listened to it. Content warnings include descriptions of bodies, explanations of the many ways death can occur in conditions of extreme cold and altitude, and a bit of profanity. Recommended for readers interested in mountaineering and its history.
February 8, 2021
OK - for the most part a decent read about the main 1967 disaster. I'm guessing if you have already read one about that climb this may not add a lot but it seems to be quite a balanced view. While some of it is inevitably speculative - more died than returned - quite a bit of it is definitely factual such as the radio logs. The author has interviewed a number of those involved. While time may have dimmed some of the memories that may well just add perspectives that would not have been available earlier.
Well enough written and with a reasonable historical background on Denali and climbing my reservations are that for almost a third of this it isn't actually about the actual expedition but about events afterwards and other climbs. Worth the read for those interested - 3.5/5
Well enough written and with a reasonable historical background on Denali and climbing my reservations are that for almost a third of this it isn't actually about the actual expedition but about events afterwards and other climbs. Worth the read for those interested - 3.5/5
July 28, 2020
Thoughts soon.
January 21, 2019
Compared to other books of this type, I didn't find this one to be one of the best . . .the author does a nice job of setting up the history of Denali and the history of various attempts to summit, but the crux of the story is about one tragic visit expedition in the mid 1960's. The author's father was a park ranger there at the time, so he does have an insider's knowledge of events. However, all of those who could provide the telling details of the story didn't survive to share the ordeal, so a lot of the story is speculative. And unlike other stories that happen on mountains, this tragedy was really not a result of poor planning, lack of reasonable rescue attempts, terrible decisions etc., but primarily due to an incredibly horrific weather system that lasted for an entire week. It held my interest, but it feels more like a history book than one detailing an adventure in climbing.
It's a story that deserved to be told, but one that was hard to pull together in a way that made for compelling reading.
It's a story that deserved to be told, but one that was hard to pull together in a way that made for compelling reading.
July 31, 2020
The Wilcox Expedition on Denali (then called Mount McKinley) in 1967 was the deadliest in the recorded history of the mountain in which seven climbers died mainly due to frostbite and hypothermia. The story of this expedition which had many problems is told in this book by Andy Hall.
Hall grew interested in this particular climb when his father, who was a Mount McKinley National Park employee, was taking calls about a rescue mission for climbers on the mountain. The rescue, along with so many other aspects of this expedition, was fraught with problems. Some of the problems were because of human error, some were due to nature.
The climb was known as the Wilcox expedition because the leader was Joe Wilcox, a 24 year old climber who had little experience in climbing, let along leading a team on a mountain as large as Denali. It should be noted that several members of the party did manage to reach the peak of Denali. However, from the beginning, the men on the expedition were having trouble with getting along as a team, splitting into various factions. Wilcox was not the only inexperienced climber – aside from a few members from Colorado, not many had extensive experience. Hall does a good job of describing this problem and the tension the men were experiencing.
There were also communication problems as the two-way radios were not effective, especially when calling for help when the weather turned. And speaking of the weather, it was considered especially difficult as many factors (wind, temperatures, snow, etc) combined to make it one of the most extreme storms the mountain had. This input from Hall's connections to the peak's weather experts are crucial to understanding this aspect.
The book is balanced in its approach to not only describing the tragedy, which reads as good drama, but also in its assessment of what went wrong on the expedition. Because so many factors played a role in this, Hall presents them all along with opinions from the experts he interviewed and that makes for a complete picture. The reader will be left to decide what he or she believes will be the true reasons for the loss of lives. This is a good book for readers who enjoy reading about mountaineering expeditions.
https://sportsbookguy.blogspot.com/20...
Hall grew interested in this particular climb when his father, who was a Mount McKinley National Park employee, was taking calls about a rescue mission for climbers on the mountain. The rescue, along with so many other aspects of this expedition, was fraught with problems. Some of the problems were because of human error, some were due to nature.
The climb was known as the Wilcox expedition because the leader was Joe Wilcox, a 24 year old climber who had little experience in climbing, let along leading a team on a mountain as large as Denali. It should be noted that several members of the party did manage to reach the peak of Denali. However, from the beginning, the men on the expedition were having trouble with getting along as a team, splitting into various factions. Wilcox was not the only inexperienced climber – aside from a few members from Colorado, not many had extensive experience. Hall does a good job of describing this problem and the tension the men were experiencing.
There were also communication problems as the two-way radios were not effective, especially when calling for help when the weather turned. And speaking of the weather, it was considered especially difficult as many factors (wind, temperatures, snow, etc) combined to make it one of the most extreme storms the mountain had. This input from Hall's connections to the peak's weather experts are crucial to understanding this aspect.
The book is balanced in its approach to not only describing the tragedy, which reads as good drama, but also in its assessment of what went wrong on the expedition. Because so many factors played a role in this, Hall presents them all along with opinions from the experts he interviewed and that makes for a complete picture. The reader will be left to decide what he or she believes will be the true reasons for the loss of lives. This is a good book for readers who enjoy reading about mountaineering expeditions.
https://sportsbookguy.blogspot.com/20...
June 29, 2014
This is a very methodical attempt to lay out everything we know about a doomed group of climbers on Denali in 1967--one can imagine that if one were very into mountaineering and had heard lots about this incident already, one would greatly appreciate seeing all the known evidence combined with the memories of an impressive number of the people involved. Since it's clear a lot of blame was thrown around both in the immediate aftermath of the tragedy and in the decades since, I think it's good that this book now exists as an attempt to sift through everything to separate out what we can definitely say happened from what we can only speculate about.
However, as someone coming to the book with no prior knowledge of the incident, I found Hall was mostly lacking the storyteller's spark that could have made this a truly gripping read for me. (With the exception of the Prologue, which is fantastic.) I got bogged down in all the details and it took me about two and a half weeks to read a book that's really only a little over 200 pages without notes. Hence the 3 star rating.
However, as someone coming to the book with no prior knowledge of the incident, I found Hall was mostly lacking the storyteller's spark that could have made this a truly gripping read for me. (With the exception of the Prologue, which is fantastic.) I got bogged down in all the details and it took me about two and a half weeks to read a book that's really only a little over 200 pages without notes. Hence the 3 star rating.
May 27, 2020
This book tells the story of the 1967 climbing disaster on Denali which killed seven climbers in a storm as they attempted a climb. The son of the park superintendant has researched all the available documents and talked to the survivors and rescuers about the events of the disaster, trying to discover what went wrong and if more could've been done to save them. I found it to be a balanced account that sets the scene and the background to the climb, the conflicting personalities of the climbers and the harsh environment that they were going into. It goes into a brief history of climbing on Denali, the training and recruiting of team members, the journey to the mountain, who was working in the park and how the expedition got under way. I found the detail to be pretty interesting and it helped us get to know the various climbers before following them on the mountain, as well as the pilots and park staff who would be drawn into the disaster.
As the climb progressed, the group became split as the strongest climbers pushed ahead to gain the summit before retreating down the mountain to rest and recover at a lower camp, which is the accepted way of doing things. The others waited to make their attempt on alater day which is when the storm hit the mountain. The book looks at the men who were safer and the struggles they faced in trying to raise the alarm for their missing colleagues. It also looks at how a rescue plan was put together and the way that the weather prevented any chance of rescue until the storm had ended. It asks all the difficult questions about a series of decisions taken on and off the mountain and ponders if the expedition was doomed from the start. I felt that this seemed to be a fair account which allowed all the major players to put their point across and I thought it was an interesting book to read. I would certainly recommend it to people interested in expeditions and mountain disaster books.
3.5 star
As the climb progressed, the group became split as the strongest climbers pushed ahead to gain the summit before retreating down the mountain to rest and recover at a lower camp, which is the accepted way of doing things. The others waited to make their attempt on alater day which is when the storm hit the mountain. The book looks at the men who were safer and the struggles they faced in trying to raise the alarm for their missing colleagues. It also looks at how a rescue plan was put together and the way that the weather prevented any chance of rescue until the storm had ended. It asks all the difficult questions about a series of decisions taken on and off the mountain and ponders if the expedition was doomed from the start. I felt that this seemed to be a fair account which allowed all the major players to put their point across and I thought it was an interesting book to read. I would certainly recommend it to people interested in expeditions and mountain disaster books.
3.5 star
September 10, 2021
More clinical after action than personal harrowing tale, but a still good account of the 1967 disaster and the changes that happened afterwards.
February 7, 2016
Ok. Andy Hall's Denali's Howl kept my interest but the limited firsthand accounts weigh on the book throughout. A slim and grim narrative, it added to my almost non-existent of Denali but disappointed generally.
Writing about a mountaineering tragedy 50 years after it occurred with limited sources would be a challenge for anyone let alone a first time author. Hall does an adequate job but seems to include every anecdote or piece of dialogue about the '67 climb he could obtain. Some of the most interesting pieces of the book are the chapters that do not deal with the 1967 climb, and Hall would have been well served to spend more time sussing out other available stories - more about the history of climbing Denali, more background about the climbers, maybe even more about his relationship with his father, the superintendent of Denali (f/k/a McKinley) National Park at the time of the climb.
Several other books have been written about the '67 climb, including one by a surviving climber. Not sure I will seek those out given how depressing this story is and how little other information about the climb I expect may be available. If you are looking for a book about the '67 climb, I suggest you cast a wide net, but Denali's Howl is not a bad place to start.
Recommended for the insane considering climbing Denali.
Writing about a mountaineering tragedy 50 years after it occurred with limited sources would be a challenge for anyone let alone a first time author. Hall does an adequate job but seems to include every anecdote or piece of dialogue about the '67 climb he could obtain. Some of the most interesting pieces of the book are the chapters that do not deal with the 1967 climb, and Hall would have been well served to spend more time sussing out other available stories - more about the history of climbing Denali, more background about the climbers, maybe even more about his relationship with his father, the superintendent of Denali (f/k/a McKinley) National Park at the time of the climb.
Several other books have been written about the '67 climb, including one by a surviving climber. Not sure I will seek those out given how depressing this story is and how little other information about the climb I expect may be available. If you are looking for a book about the '67 climb, I suggest you cast a wide net, but Denali's Howl is not a bad place to start.
Recommended for the insane considering climbing Denali.
November 2, 2022
As a recent (summer of 2019) visitor to Alaska who was deeply impressed by the park and the mountain, my anticipation was whetted before I ever started the book. This description of the 1967 climb and subsequent tragedy had my full attention. The research done for the book was thorough and the almost first-person perspective that came through the (now middle-aged) son of the Park Ranger at that time made the story very personal. I got lost a little when the other climbing team was introduced and then began a rescue attempt, but the description of their discovery of part of the team on the top of the mountain maybe the most vivid scene from the book - certainly the one I'll remember. Reading Denali's Howl made me want to return...which was what I hoped for when I started the book.
June 9, 2019
In 1967 twelve young guys formed an expedition to climb Denali. At high elevations they encountered a storm of rare and sustained power with winds far exceeding those of a hurricane. Seven of the twelve died as a result. "Denali's Howl" is a boring and confusing book about an exciting story.
Books about tragedies need to get the reader invested in the people and setting before tragedy strikes. In nonfiction it's essential. This is what made Jon Krakauer's "Into Thin Air" and Sebastian Junger's "The Perfect Storm" huge bestsellers: beloved, memorable and classic.
Krakauer let the reader get to know the climbers he wrote about and even some of their loved ones. He described the different parts of Everest, the different techniques needed to climb it and the rigors of it all in clear and vivid language. Because of this, long before the storm hits the reader is strongly invested in the people and consequences. "Into Thin Air" is one of my favorite nonfiction books. I read it in 1997 when it was published and a lot of it stayed with me. Seeing the viral photo of this year's lines at the summit brought even more of it back.
Andy Hall begins "Denali's Howl" with a list of the climbers: name, hometown, college and major, job if the person had one, names of peaks climbed. Beyond that the reader never learns much more about any of them, making it hard to tell them apart let alone care about them as individuals. The mountain, the climb and especially the climbers don't get anywhere near enough attention or detailed description.
In writing about members of another expedition stumbling upon the first body, which is partly exposed and clutching a tent pole, Hall puts the focus on how repulsed the two men are at the sight and smell of the decomposed body. I didn't feel connected to the dead man and I think the inclusion of the others' repulsion was disrespectful. Sadly only two other bodies were seen, frozen in place. We don't know whose they were. Time taken later to talk about the families would have been better spent letting us get to know their sons.
The best part of the book is a chapter that's only eleven pages long: "Thirty Years Later," based on an interview in which professional Denali guide Blaine Smith describes an expedition he led that ran into a very similar catastrophic storm. I attribute this to Smith's storytelling abilities. There are a few other interesting bits but most of "Denali's Howl" is deadly dull. If I could go back I'd skip the book and read about the Wilcox Expedition on Wikipedia.
Books about tragedies need to get the reader invested in the people and setting before tragedy strikes. In nonfiction it's essential. This is what made Jon Krakauer's "Into Thin Air" and Sebastian Junger's "The Perfect Storm" huge bestsellers: beloved, memorable and classic.
Krakauer let the reader get to know the climbers he wrote about and even some of their loved ones. He described the different parts of Everest, the different techniques needed to climb it and the rigors of it all in clear and vivid language. Because of this, long before the storm hits the reader is strongly invested in the people and consequences. "Into Thin Air" is one of my favorite nonfiction books. I read it in 1997 when it was published and a lot of it stayed with me. Seeing the viral photo of this year's lines at the summit brought even more of it back.
Andy Hall begins "Denali's Howl" with a list of the climbers: name, hometown, college and major, job if the person had one, names of peaks climbed. Beyond that the reader never learns much more about any of them, making it hard to tell them apart let alone care about them as individuals. The mountain, the climb and especially the climbers don't get anywhere near enough attention or detailed description.
In writing about members of another expedition stumbling upon the first body, which is partly exposed and clutching a tent pole, Hall puts the focus on how repulsed the two men are at the sight and smell of the decomposed body. I didn't feel connected to the dead man and I think the inclusion of the others' repulsion was disrespectful. Sadly only two other bodies were seen, frozen in place. We don't know whose they were. Time taken later to talk about the families would have been better spent letting us get to know their sons.
The best part of the book is a chapter that's only eleven pages long: "Thirty Years Later," based on an interview in which professional Denali guide Blaine Smith describes an expedition he led that ran into a very similar catastrophic storm. I attribute this to Smith's storytelling abilities. There are a few other interesting bits but most of "Denali's Howl" is deadly dull. If I could go back I'd skip the book and read about the Wilcox Expedition on Wikipedia.
March 5, 2015
Denali’s Howl is the white-knuckle account of one of the most deadly climbing disasters of all time.
In 1967, twelve young men attempted to climb Alaska’s Mount McKinley—known to the locals as Denali—one of the most popular and deadly mountaineering destinations in the world. Only five survived.
Journalist Andy Hall, son of the park superintendent at the time, investigates the tragedy. He spent years tracking down survivors, lost documents, and recordings of radio communications. In Denali’s Howl, Hall reveals the full story of an expedition facing conditions conclusively established here for the first time: At an elevation of nearly 20,000 feet, these young men endured an “arctic super blizzard,” with howling winds of up to 300 miles an hour and wind chill that freezes flesh solid in minutes. All this without the high-tech gear and equipment climbers use today.
As well as the story of the men caught inside the storm, Denali’s Howl is the story of those caught outside it trying to save them—Hall’s father among them. The book gives readers a detailed look at the culture of climbing then and now and raises uncomfortable questions about each player in this tragedy. Was enough done to rescue the climbers, or were their fates sealed when they ascended into the path of this unprecedented storm?
'On Denali, death is never far away for the careless and the unlucky’. Andy Hall
Denali boasts the greatest vertical relief on earth, soaring 18,000 from base to summit compared to Everest, although 29,029 above sea level, that rises 12,000 ft to its summit from its base on the Tibetan Plateau.
An expedition of 12 young men took on Alaska’s Mount Denali in the summer of 1967. The team, a mix of experienced climbers some little more than beginners, was soon torn by conflict. Bitter arguments broke out and at times members refused to talk to each other. Not ideal when your survival depends on teamwork.
The author doesn't play the 'blame game' but mistakes were made that could have been avoided. What was not avoidable was the incoming low-pressure system that was destined to collide with a high-pressure system to create a super storm on Denali with winds over 300 miles per hour.
A cautionary tale, moving, tragic and utterly engrossing
In 1967, twelve young men attempted to climb Alaska’s Mount McKinley—known to the locals as Denali—one of the most popular and deadly mountaineering destinations in the world. Only five survived.
Journalist Andy Hall, son of the park superintendent at the time, investigates the tragedy. He spent years tracking down survivors, lost documents, and recordings of radio communications. In Denali’s Howl, Hall reveals the full story of an expedition facing conditions conclusively established here for the first time: At an elevation of nearly 20,000 feet, these young men endured an “arctic super blizzard,” with howling winds of up to 300 miles an hour and wind chill that freezes flesh solid in minutes. All this without the high-tech gear and equipment climbers use today.
As well as the story of the men caught inside the storm, Denali’s Howl is the story of those caught outside it trying to save them—Hall’s father among them. The book gives readers a detailed look at the culture of climbing then and now and raises uncomfortable questions about each player in this tragedy. Was enough done to rescue the climbers, or were their fates sealed when they ascended into the path of this unprecedented storm?
'On Denali, death is never far away for the careless and the unlucky’. Andy Hall
Denali boasts the greatest vertical relief on earth, soaring 18,000 from base to summit compared to Everest, although 29,029 above sea level, that rises 12,000 ft to its summit from its base on the Tibetan Plateau.
An expedition of 12 young men took on Alaska’s Mount Denali in the summer of 1967. The team, a mix of experienced climbers some little more than beginners, was soon torn by conflict. Bitter arguments broke out and at times members refused to talk to each other. Not ideal when your survival depends on teamwork.
The author doesn't play the 'blame game' but mistakes were made that could have been avoided. What was not avoidable was the incoming low-pressure system that was destined to collide with a high-pressure system to create a super storm on Denali with winds over 300 miles per hour.
A cautionary tale, moving, tragic and utterly engrossing
January 30, 2024
After you read this tale you won’t even want ice in your drink ! Not to mention thinking of frozen eyeballs.
As this trek up Mt Mckinley in Alaska was in 1967, one feels a bit of nostalgia as if they weren’t as skilled back then, perhaps more innocent. but of course they were, sure now the equipment is better, but many a mountain was climbed with what they used.
The author tells a great tale keeping the story moving along at a can’t-put-it-down pace trying to blend all the personalities in a mix of how they helped or hindered the climb. Author Hall was a 5 yr old at the time and his father was a ranger at Denali park supporting the climb, so he adds interest with the perspective.
Like a lot of folks, if I’m out hiking I don’t mind trying to hike up the highest peak around, there’s something in human nature about that, so while I’ve never done any technical -real- mountain climbing I try to understand the allure.
But…hidden bottomless crevices out to get you, whiteouts, gusts of over 200mph, if you turn the wrong way and your gloves are blown off your hands, you have a minute or two before you can’t use your hands, yes one fellow’s eyeballs froze, it all kept me reading, afraid to look or look away !
As this trek up Mt Mckinley in Alaska was in 1967, one feels a bit of nostalgia as if they weren’t as skilled back then, perhaps more innocent. but of course they were, sure now the equipment is better, but many a mountain was climbed with what they used.
The author tells a great tale keeping the story moving along at a can’t-put-it-down pace trying to blend all the personalities in a mix of how they helped or hindered the climb. Author Hall was a 5 yr old at the time and his father was a ranger at Denali park supporting the climb, so he adds interest with the perspective.
Like a lot of folks, if I’m out hiking I don’t mind trying to hike up the highest peak around, there’s something in human nature about that, so while I’ve never done any technical -real- mountain climbing I try to understand the allure.
But…hidden bottomless crevices out to get you, whiteouts, gusts of over 200mph, if you turn the wrong way and your gloves are blown off your hands, you have a minute or two before you can’t use your hands, yes one fellow’s eyeballs froze, it all kept me reading, afraid to look or look away !
May 9, 2014
As the most deadly climbing accident ever on Mt. McKinley (aka Denali) this story has been written before, and I’ve read four versions, but none match Hall’s treatise. With seven bodies still snow-bound somewhere on the mountain and the details of their final days unknown, mystery still surrounds the catastrophe.
On top of mystery of the climbers’ final days and whereabouts, there was ensuing controversy regarding responsibility for the rescue effort. Could the climbers have been saved? By whom? Errors were made, but of what significance? This is a story about extraordinary men in an intense environment where minor mistakes can have deadly consequences.
Hall supplements the events on the mountain with interviews of the surviving climbers, with professional guides, with rescuers and with meteorologists. All this expertise aside, the funnest insights are Hall’s own. He was at McKinley Park during the climb, albeit only 5-years old, and his recollections from childhood add a Scout-Finch flare to the narrative.
On top of mystery of the climbers’ final days and whereabouts, there was ensuing controversy regarding responsibility for the rescue effort. Could the climbers have been saved? By whom? Errors were made, but of what significance? This is a story about extraordinary men in an intense environment where minor mistakes can have deadly consequences.
Hall supplements the events on the mountain with interviews of the surviving climbers, with professional guides, with rescuers and with meteorologists. All this expertise aside, the funnest insights are Hall’s own. He was at McKinley Park during the climb, albeit only 5-years old, and his recollections from childhood add a Scout-Finch flare to the narrative.
August 6, 2015
This is an interesting read, because you know what happens, but you're reading it for the details. There are a lot of characters, and I sometimes have a hard time keeping them straight. The climbers were around the age that my oldest son is now, so I thought a lot about how hard it must have been for the parents of these "children", knowing the risks an expedition like that could bring. My own son says "Mom, I'll be fine!" whenever I have concerns about the decisions he's making, but he's an adult now, even if he'll always be my baby. I can't imagine that parental worry becoming a reality.
I chose to read this because my younger sons's high school marching band is doing a show based on this book and I love to know the details. I can't wait to see the show. They are working so hard on it. I'm sure they'll represent the book perfectly.
Also, this book is not as long as it seems. Probably the last third of the book is pictures and notes.
I chose to read this because my younger sons's high school marching band is doing a show based on this book and I love to know the details. I can't wait to see the show. They are working so hard on it. I'm sure they'll represent the book perfectly.
Also, this book is not as long as it seems. Probably the last third of the book is pictures and notes.
August 26, 2016
I'd give it 6 if I could.
June 11, 2023
3.5 stars
In 1967, twelve people climbed Alaska’s (also North America’s) highest mountain, Denali (aka Mt. McKinley). The group was actually two groups “stitched” together before the climb, so many didn’t know each other, or didn’t know each other well, nor were really prepared to work (well) together. Only five survived. The author’s father worked for the park service at the time and was involved in the search afterward. This covers what is known of the climb, the aftermath, and speculation about what may have happened to the seven who never made it back.
I listened to the audio and it’s another where I sometimes lost interest. But the portions I paid attention to were interesting. Of course, in the 1960s, the hiking gear was not as advanced, nor was communication, so it was harder to know if there was really something wrong if you didn’t hear from someone via radio when you were supposed to. This book has made me interested to possibly look up some of the other books on the same mountaineering disaster on Denali.
In 1967, twelve people climbed Alaska’s (also North America’s) highest mountain, Denali (aka Mt. McKinley). The group was actually two groups “stitched” together before the climb, so many didn’t know each other, or didn’t know each other well, nor were really prepared to work (well) together. Only five survived. The author’s father worked for the park service at the time and was involved in the search afterward. This covers what is known of the climb, the aftermath, and speculation about what may have happened to the seven who never made it back.
I listened to the audio and it’s another where I sometimes lost interest. But the portions I paid attention to were interesting. Of course, in the 1960s, the hiking gear was not as advanced, nor was communication, so it was harder to know if there was really something wrong if you didn’t hear from someone via radio when you were supposed to. This book has made me interested to possibly look up some of the other books on the same mountaineering disaster on Denali.
April 28, 2014
Denali’s Howl is gripping, harrowing nonfiction account of a 12 man expedition to reach the summit of Mount McKinley in 1967. Formally called Mount Denali, it is the tallest mountain in North America. Although 12 went up the mountain, seven never returned. This is the account of what happened and the “perfect storm” that descended on Mt. Denali that sealed the climbers’ fate.
I found this book very informative and fast moving. I don’t know anything about mountain climbing but I found this very easy to read. Enough facts were provided that I could understand what was going on but I didn’t get lost in details. I wanted to keep reading to find out how and why the catastrophe occurred. I appreciated the author’s knowledge and delivery of the subject. The only thing I found confusing was keeping track of who was who. This was by no means the author’s fault though since there were 12 climbers and he allowed you to get to know each one.
I highly recommend this book to anyone who loves to read nonfiction. It is very enlightening and you don’t have to be a mountain climbing enthusiast to find it interesting and compelling. You will start the story and not be able to put it down till you turn the last page.
I found this book very informative and fast moving. I don’t know anything about mountain climbing but I found this very easy to read. Enough facts were provided that I could understand what was going on but I didn’t get lost in details. I wanted to keep reading to find out how and why the catastrophe occurred. I appreciated the author’s knowledge and delivery of the subject. The only thing I found confusing was keeping track of who was who. This was by no means the author’s fault though since there were 12 climbers and he allowed you to get to know each one.
I highly recommend this book to anyone who loves to read nonfiction. It is very enlightening and you don’t have to be a mountain climbing enthusiast to find it interesting and compelling. You will start the story and not be able to put it down till you turn the last page.
July 16, 2014
Denali's Howl was a perfect storm--today's meteorologists who sat down with their computer modeling and the author explained it as a once-in-a-100-year collision of extreme high and low pressures over Denali in July 1967. An expedition of twelve young climbers was at or near the summit when the storm hit. Andy Hall was the five year old son of the Mount McKinley (Denali) National Park superintendent and was deeply impressed by his father's involvement in the tragedy. Nearly fifty years later, he has done a great job piecing together the written records and interviews with the survivors, other climbers, and experts. He portrays the personalities, the necessary but awkward melding of two different climbing groups, and probable weaknesses and mistakes. But in 1967 communication was primitive and search and rescue just starting as a discipline. Hall tells stories of some more recent experiences with storms on Denali and shows how even with modern techniques, humans are frail and limited in the face of such an overwhelming force of nature.
September 11, 2021
Well-written and engaging, with detailed reporting, this was a good and quick read about a climbing accident in Denali, Alaska 50 years ago. I liked the character research, as well as the detailed descriptions of Denali National Park, its history, and the in-depth picture of how the climbing expedition went. I picked this up in a bookstore in Alaska while on vacation there, and generally speaking, it is fun to read a book set in a place you're visiting, one which describes the landscapes, conditions and history that you're experiencing and learning about. Something to definitely try again in the future!
June 26, 2021
I'm always fascinated by people who attempt to climb mountains despite the dangers and enjoy reading about them, if only to try to understand. I still don't get it. And I'll still read these books as long as I find them. I, who got altitude sickness just going up to Pike's Peak, am taken by these adventurers who put their lives on the line and often lose. Even when they make the attempt, what is there to show? Bragging rights? Means nothing to me. Oh well, I still enjoy their stories and this was a good one.
August 3, 2022
A captivating yet chilling story of heroism, heartbreak, and strength in the beautiful setting of Mt. Denali. Andy hall did a fantastic job covering the inner workings of the park, life on the mountain, and all the various people involved throughout the years. I couldn’t put it down.
July 23, 2025
4.5 Actual
While it is not technically a first person account of the disaster, I think Denali’s Howl will greatly appeal to people who enjoyed Krakauer’s Into Thin Air. Andy Hall clearly put a great deal of time and effort into the research he did for this book, talking to as many people directly connected to the event as he could, whether they were survivors of the storm or national park employees in contact with the climbers. That, combined with the fact that hall was living in the park at the time because of his father’s position with the park service, creates an in-depth look at the whole event.
I think the book has a bit of a slow start, though in hindsight all the groundwork the first 30-40% of the book lays out is crucial to understanding and feeling the weight of what happens later. I listened to the audiobook for this, and though it is not narrated by Hall, there are still many scenes that packed more of a punch than they probably would have if I had just read the words off of the page in the silence of my own head. There are many instances where the emotion is palpable, whether the emotion is excitement, fear, frustration, or grief. One passage, about 75% of the way into the book, describes what happens to the body when hypothermia sets in. Though I was familiar with the gist of what happens, hearing all the details spoken aloud was almost harrowing; it really highlighted the dire situation the climbers were in on the mountain.
As previously stated, there are many, many firsthand accounts in this book. Hall spoke to multiple survivors of the tragedy, and accessed recordings, transcripts, pictures, and even journals entries from people both in the expedition party and involved in the clumsy attempts at communication and rescue that came too late. There were aspects of this that reminded me a lot of Into Thin Air, with people – including Merry, a man who was a park employee at the time – accusing survivors and park employees for not actually rescuing the victims, even though trying to do so likely would have resulted in far more deaths. Things were not handled as well as they probably could have been, but they did what they could with the resources at their disposal and what the human body could actually withstand. Multiple people Hall spoke to said it would be virtually impossible to do more with modern (for the time in the 2010s) technology and resources, so there’s essentially no chance that things could have gone better than they did in 1967.
Hall is nothing but respectful towards those he writes about, no matter their stance on the circumstances. I think he did an excellent job compiling all of the information and making it both accessible and compelling to read. I would highly recommend this to anyone who is looking for a heart-pounding expedition story.
While it is not technically a first person account of the disaster, I think Denali’s Howl will greatly appeal to people who enjoyed Krakauer’s Into Thin Air. Andy Hall clearly put a great deal of time and effort into the research he did for this book, talking to as many people directly connected to the event as he could, whether they were survivors of the storm or national park employees in contact with the climbers. That, combined with the fact that hall was living in the park at the time because of his father’s position with the park service, creates an in-depth look at the whole event.
I think the book has a bit of a slow start, though in hindsight all the groundwork the first 30-40% of the book lays out is crucial to understanding and feeling the weight of what happens later. I listened to the audiobook for this, and though it is not narrated by Hall, there are still many scenes that packed more of a punch than they probably would have if I had just read the words off of the page in the silence of my own head. There are many instances where the emotion is palpable, whether the emotion is excitement, fear, frustration, or grief. One passage, about 75% of the way into the book, describes what happens to the body when hypothermia sets in. Though I was familiar with the gist of what happens, hearing all the details spoken aloud was almost harrowing; it really highlighted the dire situation the climbers were in on the mountain.
As previously stated, there are many, many firsthand accounts in this book. Hall spoke to multiple survivors of the tragedy, and accessed recordings, transcripts, pictures, and even journals entries from people both in the expedition party and involved in the clumsy attempts at communication and rescue that came too late. There were aspects of this that reminded me a lot of Into Thin Air, with people – including Merry, a man who was a park employee at the time – accusing survivors and park employees for not actually rescuing the victims, even though trying to do so likely would have resulted in far more deaths. Things were not handled as well as they probably could have been, but they did what they could with the resources at their disposal and what the human body could actually withstand. Multiple people Hall spoke to said it would be virtually impossible to do more with modern (for the time in the 2010s) technology and resources, so there’s essentially no chance that things could have gone better than they did in 1967.
Hall is nothing but respectful towards those he writes about, no matter their stance on the circumstances. I think he did an excellent job compiling all of the information and making it both accessible and compelling to read. I would highly recommend this to anyone who is looking for a heart-pounding expedition story.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
January 17, 2024
There are barely any written reviews of this book, so while I don’t have much to say – I figured I would chime in for the sake of future readers. I love mountaineering disaster stories, and often find myself watching hours of them on YouTube. I figured I may as well try a book version, and was not disappointed. I listened to this in the background, as I did chores, and enjoyed the narration and the general story. I have no idea what this would actually be like to read, or to take in as an audiobook that you are super actively listening to. But it served its purpose for me. First audiobook in almost a year !
September 22, 2022
The Wilcox Expedition took place in July 1967, when two climbing groups merged together to climb Denali. (Denali was still referred to as Mount McKinley at that time, and the book does use that name part of the time as well.) Evidently, this mountain has weather events that are unpredictable. Weather can be nice in the morning, and then white out conditions by lunch. There has been a lot of issue taken with the lack of communication/planning/leadership, and while there was human error for certain situations, they did not have control over a super storm that hit the mountain. Unfortunately, this resulted in the deaths of seven out of the twelve that started this expedition. The bodies were left on the mountain, and some of them were never even found to attempt to recover.
I got this book on Audible Plus, which is free with subscription. I really enjoy the rotation of books that they put out, and this book happened to be one of them they added recently. I have had this book on my list for a while, because I am always interested in disasters. I have a morbid addiction to disaster books. Anyway, this book was about five hours to listen to and I really liked it and learned a lot about this particular expedition. I didn't know anything about it beforehand, so this was great.
I got this book on Audible Plus, which is free with subscription. I really enjoy the rotation of books that they put out, and this book happened to be one of them they added recently. I have had this book on my list for a while, because I am always interested in disasters. I have a morbid addiction to disaster books. Anyway, this book was about five hours to listen to and I really liked it and learned a lot about this particular expedition. I didn't know anything about it beforehand, so this was great.
June 12, 2023
A pretty good account of a fairly well-known and much-debated mountaineering disaster which claimed the lives of seven on Denali in 1967. Told by the son of the head ranger at the park (I really dislike when nonfiction writers put themselves in the story, though in this case he was nearby and his father was involved), he seems to straddle the middle path, so to speak, on the issue of team discord. To me the expedition seemed doomed from almost the start, especially before more-advanced equipment, training, and rescue options were available. I enjoy reading about mountaineering, though I wouldn't have tried it even in my prime, and I know the lure of living dangerously is a attractive drug, but many extreme climbers are crazy, if you ask me. But I do admire them at the same time.
December 13, 2016
Whatever you do, do not listen to the audio book of this. The narrator sounds like John Wayne on a massive dose of Valium reading a phone book. Also, many of the names of mountains and sherpas were overdubbed as if, after it was all recorded, the producer learned that the narrator didn't pronounce the names correctly.
October 3, 2019
This is, quite possibly, the single most boring piece of narrative nonfiction that I have ever had the misfortune to read. I finished it just to finish it, but spent the last eight or so chapters trying not to fall asleep. It will be returned and I will not recommend it to anyone.
March 24, 2016
A good, solid telling of this ill-fated attempt at climbing Denali.
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