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400 pages, Hardcover
First published November 1, 2013
‘Even today, when I describe Born—and this is in spite of the fact that I know it well, well enough to not get lost anymore—I still say that the streets have “roofs,” and it’s not true. Memories from toxic years tend to be tenaciously sticky.’
‘Back at the house, Ned is sitting in the small entrance gallery, drinking what looks like iced tea but could also be whiskey. I ask what time the morning train leaves. He tells me to be careful, that they often come early or late, that Amtrak is a disaster. He’s still grumpy, but he laughs—“I’m sure you’ll be happy here,” I tell him—He doesn’t go in for any nonsense. “Well,” he says. “A person can be very unhappy in the prettiest place on earth, and he can be his happiest in some industrial suburb. Savannah is lovely, but we’ll see if it makes me happy.” Night falls over the city. Near Ned and Steve’s house, it’s said, the souls of those who died of malaria two hundred years ago still wander the square at night. But for now, there are only the sounds of northern accents and clinking champagne glasses, and the smell of sweet magnolias on the breeze.’
‘Someone said that Diego Maradona, the football star, might show up—he was in rehab on the island—but it was a false alarm. The band was disappointed. A Norwegian journalist of staggering beauty, well over six feet tall, said that she’d been scared for Fidel Castro, and had been shocked by the lack of security. Simon, a British journalist, said that Castro was just using the band, but that it only seemed fair because the band, in turn, was using the revolution. No one fully understood what was happening. They asked me; I’m Argentine, like Che Guevara, so supposedly I must understand that political process. I imparted the lessons of a master class with all the arrogance of a Latina: I got haughty and behaved terribly, and I felt like they deserved it. Then I felt ashamed and got drunk on sugarcane liquor.’
‘I think several times about veering off, playing dumb, the Latin American who doesn’t understand, and wandering around taking pictures and pretending to be lost. It’s been days now since I’ve talked to anyone. My neighbors in Forest Hill are suspicious of me, I think because Anne didn’t tell them I’d be using her house while she was on vacation. They give me dirty looks, especially since I tend to forget to close the little gate, even though, in my opinion, it makes no difference whether it’s closed or open, because if it’s for safety, it barely separates the yard from the street—it’s very low and you could jump right over it. Maybe it’s a rule of etiquette I’m unaware of. In the pub across the street, I watched the final episodes of Game of Thrones with a crowd of people, but none of them said a word to me, nor I to them—and maybe that’s why I don’t seek out other fans in London who I know are here, and with whom I could have a drink, or walk around or share our obsession—.’
‘I talked—about Marcelo Bielsa just to say something, because I know he likes football. And whenever he turned to talk to someone else, I felt time running through my hands like water and like sand, like the two things together, ungraspable and pasty and annoying and painful, prone to turning cold and scratchy. He got into the band’s van and left, but first he thanked me for coming all the way from Argentina. That was it. And later on, in the pub with Mary, all I could think about was how if that man came in and looked at me and talked to me, and said, for example, “Oh, I’ve read your stories,” I would be capable of leaving my life behind—Just because he’s a kind of fetish of another life, when options and possibilities existed that are gone today.’
‘The grave of Malcolm McLaren, manager of the Sex Pistols, has the best epitaph: “Better a spectacular failure than a benign success.” It also has a bronze death mask rendered as a bust, surprisingly old-fashioned: I would expect some kind of punk craziness, but no. Nearby is Pat Kavanagh, the legendary literary agent who left her husband, the writer Julian Barnes, to have a romance with the writer Jeanette Winterson, then went back to him. Do they visit her together? Do they hate each other, or even know each other? The headstone is black and gold and has her initials, PK, as if her name were so powerful as to be irrelevant. Barnes remembers her like this in Levels of Life: “I told one of the few Christians I know that she was seriously ill. He replied that he would pray for her. I didn’t object, but shockingly soon found myself informing him, not without bitterness, that his god didn’t seem to have been very effective. He replied, ‘Have you ever considered that she might have suffered more?’ ”’
‘I read Sillitoe’s The Loneliness of the Long-Distance Runner when I was a teenager and it seemed to me that there was nothing sadder than England, specifically Nottingham and Essex, the places in the story Smith traverses after leaving home—the England of Dickens and the projects. So different from the one in the music of Bert Jansch, who is also buried in Highgate, near the door to the east side; Jansch was of Scottish origin, and one of the major players in the British folk revival. He played several times with Bernard Butler, the former Suede guitarist who left the band in 1995, that terrible year when Richey from Manic Street Preachers also disappeared. That’s why Neil, who joined Suede that year, was important for me: he was the one who came in to assuage my grief. Bernard didn’t die, of course, and he’s still a musician and producer and one-man band, but I remember those pink VHS tapes that would come from other countries in cardboard boxes, the international communication between fans by post before there was internet for all. I would watch those videos, watch Bernard, with his long nose and glorious mop of hair, in those days of guitars and coke and cold. They weren’t happy or sad, but they seemed eternal.’
‘My relationship with Barcelona continued to develop, and it grew intense and complicated. The city was a paradise for young people from Argentina’s impoverished middle class, many of them my friends, and I was left behind. To emigrate, you need to have money and also a certain predisposition, and I always found excuses not to make the move. I didn’t want to leave, at least I don’t think I did, but it’s hard to remember what I really felt, because leaving was a destiny and a duty; the farewells happened with a frequency that came to seem normal. Most of my goodbyes took place in La Plata, where I grew up; the kids there were educated for exile. They learned languages as a means of escape.’
‘Death’s gender is unclear, since it’s a skeleton—could be a man or a woman. The famous Catalan funerary sculpture is a homoerotic piece, and its sensual sadness hews to a modern sensibility; its solitude is outlined against the sky and waits near the sea like a welcome stranger.’
‘—a stylized image created by Wilfredo Viladrich that shows the young woman with her dog, Sabú, has had many names—to her current moniker, “the corpse bride” (from the sixties to Tim Burton in five decades). She died in February 1970, in Austria. During her honeymoon, an avalanche of snow destroyed the hotel where she was staying. The family built her a neo-Gothic temple; in the basement there’s an oil portrait of Liliana painted by a friend, and the coffin is covered by an Indian sari—She’s not my personal favorite, though, perhaps because of all that privilege. (How much money did you have to have in Argentina in 1970 to go to Austria for your honeymoon?) We wouldn’t have been friends. Still, Liliana is beautiful: to me she looks like one of the Venusian characters from the anime Captain Harlock, especially with her vacant eyes, but everyone dresses her up according to their own references.’
‘—not many people know about the theft of Eva Perón’s embalmed corpse. Or even about her bizarre mummy. Her Spanish embalmer, Dr. Pedro Ara, published a book explaining the whole process, though not in detail; it is not a how-to manual. Written between 1956 and 1960, it has a pompous tone and features quotes from Goethe, along with photos of Eva’s body in various phases of preservation. More importantly, in 1995 the Argentine writer Tomás Eloy Martínez published Santa Evita, a novel about the body’s journey that was an international bestseller, but the case seems to have been forgotten anyway. Maybe it needs a film? Or maybe some people are turned off by how morbid it is, or they think it’s an urban legend. In any case, I have to tell the story of postmortem Eva to most people for the first time, and I usually do it here in the cemetery, and with relish.’
‘My friends are still all worked up about Eva Perón, and I try to explain that the mistreatment and moving around of her body is unusual but by no means anomalous in this country, and particularly in this cemetery. There is a real obsession with opening graves, removing bodies, relocating them, kidnapping or hiding them, which, I think, is a national characteristic. My friends are horrified when I say that, but there’s really no point in denying it. The saga of Eva Perón’s corpse and the fight over bodies during Peronism, which would have its crown of shadows during the 1976–83 dictatorship.’