"Vagabond is classic travel writing at its finest... Mark takes you on a journey through the heart of Spain which is rich in detail and bursting with life." - Sir Ranulph Fiennes
One of National Geographic Traveller's top six travel reads for 2024
This incredible true story of one man's 1,225-km hike across the Iberian Peninsula is a celebration of rural Spain along the road less travelled
Inspired by a nomadic "vagabundo" he met decades ago, Mark eschews the fast pace of modern life and sets off on a solo hike 1,225 km across the Iberian Peninsula - from Gibraltar in the far south to Estaca de Bares, Spain's most northerly tip - carrying just a backpack and a hammock.
Hiking through sleepy siesta-hour plazas, shady cork forests and heat-shimmering plains, the hours would be long, dusty and hot. But, as Mark passes through the many small villages and communities en route, his trek comes to be characterized most of all by the sharing of stories, the true kindness of strangers, and the unbridled freedom of the open road.
Recounting Mark's fascinating nomadic journey through Spain, including Extremadura, its least-visited region, Vagabond is a homage to the disappearing lifestyle of the vagabundo, as well as a celebration of rural Spain and its forgotten communities. It reminds us of the value of slowing down and finding connection with others, and the beauty that can be found in taking life one step at a time.
'A borderline insane modern-day explorer' – Maxim magazine.
Mark Eveleigh has been a full-time magazine writer and author for almost 30 years. A British citizen, he grew up in Ghana and Nigeria and has spent more years based in Spain, South Africa and Indonesia than he ever did in UK.
AUTHOR: 'Vagabond' (the book about Mark's 1,225km solo hike up the length of Spain), published by Summersdale, was listed among the '6 top travel reads for 2024' by National Geographic.
His Indonesian travel book 'Kopi Dulu' (PenguinRH SEA, 2022) was listed among the best books of 2022 by Jakarta Post.
His debut novel (in 2023) was 'Driftwood Chandeliers', a hard-hitting magical-realism novel set in a remote village in Bali.
He also wrote 'Fever Trees of Borneo' and 'Maverick in Madagascar' (published in German by National Geographic.)
GUIDEBOOK WRITER: He co-authored Secret Bali and Secret Bangkok guidebooks along with several Lonely Planet guidebooks including Borneo (2023); Tanzania (2023); Madagascar (2023); Ecuador (2024); Spain (2024).
TRAVEL JOURNALIST: As a travel journalist Mark (a fellow of Royal Geographical Society) has published more than 850 full-length travel features for more than 120 international publications, including BBC Wildlife, BBC Earth, BBC Travel, CNN Travel, Conde Nast Traveller, Telegraph, The Independent, The Guardian, Boston Globe, Travel Africa, Sunday Times, Africa Geographic and National Geographic Traveler. He's written for the inflight magazines of countless national airlines, including KLM, Qantas, Etihad, Qatar, Korea, Malaysia, Oman, Brussels, Kenya, Uganda, Philippines, Gulf Airlines and Garuda Indonesia.
When he's not on assignments he can often be found in West Bali where he has some well-stocked bookshelves and a small shed that's crammed with surfboards.
People have been walking across Spain for hundreds of years. The vast majority are following the well trodden pilgrim trails to add meaning to their personal faith; the Camino de Santiago is probably the best known of them.
Eveleigh wants to walk through Spain, but not on a pilgrimage. He is partly inspired by Laurie Lee but mostly by a nomadic vagabundo he met a number of years ago on a train, This man followed the same route that took him through the same towns and villages every two years.
Eveleigh has just passed his 5oth and felt the urge to travel again. He heads back to Spain where he spent 20 years of his life. He chose his route from Gibraltar to Estach de Bares and decided to walk over the summer when the daylight hours were the longest. He was going to go super lightweight with a hammock to sleep in and a plastic cover should there be any rain.
It felt a bit reckless but it was something that he needed to get out of his system.
Passing through the border between Gibraltar and Spain gave the first Brexit benefit as he now had to have his passport stamped. It would be 1.5 million steps before he would see the sea again. The walk out of Gibraltar felt uphill for the first 100 Km. One of his first mornings in Spain he wakes in his hammock that is tied between two olive trees and all he can hear is the sounds of bells and goats bleating.
Some of the distances that he undertakes each day are huge, he mentions reaching 43 km on some days and at one point in the book he says that he has walked nine marathons in eleven days. These long hikes each day mean that even the top notch boots he has can’t stop the plethora of blisters on both feet. Couple that with walking through one of the hottest summers on record in Europe, where the temperatures would kill thousands.
He had a routine of walking early in the morning, finding shade in the hottest part of the day, and walking later into the evening. The search for water would be constant. He finds some amazing places to each for what sounds like pennies, but often turns up just as they have stopped serving food for the day!
I really liked this book. Eveleigh is a generous man taking time to find out a little of the people he meets and places he passes through. I don’t think he slowed down for this walk at all; he was covering huge distances each day on his trek. I liked his minimal approach so he could get as close to the hobo lifestyle as he could, but he did have the luxury of a bank card, which most hobo’s wouldn’t have. IT is quite amusing in parts, I particularly thought his account of being caught singing in the middle of the road by a peloton was hilarious. Well worth reading.
Carrying on with my enjoyment of travel memoirs I, having no experience of Spain other than major tourist areas in my teens, was interested in what this ‘hiker’s homage to rural Spain’ had in store
Following the authors daily hike along the 1,225 km route starting at Gibraltar and ending at Spain’s most northerly tip I joined him on an often solitary almost month of history, beauty, off the beaten track homes and cafe’s and generally a peaceful, enjoyable ‘holiday’…….snakes, wolves, mastiff’s and injuries not withstanding, plus the often 40 plus degrees and pure sunshine
It was a look at a Country without the trimmings of tourists/ major tourism and gave a very different look and feel to Spain
The food on the way was not for me, I still shudder at pigs ears and the challenging for anyone pigs underarm that were on the very meaty menus the author found but he took sustenance where and when could and I admired this, the same was true for bathing, water and sleeping where ‘his hammock between 2 trees’ was his abode for the night of preference
I really do enjoy these books and if written well you feel you are experiencing it all yourself ( from the comfort of home of course ) and this book was done well
Erm ok, so this book was alright but just alright for me.
Eveleigh's epic yomp through the hills and dales of Spain was interesting in parts though those tended to be when he was talking about the history of the area or some random facts relating to geographical locations.
The not so interesting parts were :- 1. when he described what he ate for breakfast/lunch/dinner 2. how his blisters were doing 3. how someone offered him a lift, incredulous that he was walking 4. how his Spanish gave him away as a foreigner 5. how he had to sneak through certain "restricted" areas. For me the not so interesting parts were the more plentiful and became repetitive quite quickly. Honestly, my interest and willpower starts to seriously wane when I'm reading about draining blisters or eating something with olive oil multiple times.
As a "travel journey" book, it was average writing. Not something I'd return to or recommend and thankfully for me it was a library loan.
This is my first travel writing book, and initially, I was very reluctant to pick it up (let alone review it). I am delighted that I decided against my initial thoughts and read about the adventures of our solo hiker, Mark Eveleigh.
We follow him from Gibraltar in the south to Estaca de Bares, Spain's northernmost tip, as he attempts a 1225 km hike with only the essentials (his backpack, hammock, water, and some instant coffee sachets). Along the way, he experiences rural Spain, offering a glimpse into everyday life and cultural celebrations like la fiesta de la Virgen de Guadalupe and the seasonal crop of first communions (the Partridge). He sleeps in eucalyptus woodlands, encounters Roman garrisons and ruined fortresses above cornfields, bathes in rivers, and chases a taste of Spanish cuisine—though not very successfully, given the culture of siestas meaning most kitchens are closed when he needs lunch.
What I love about this book is that I felt like I joined the author on his journey. I was lost in the descriptions of beautiful Spain, felt the heat of the relentless sun throughout his trip, and wanted to be part of his endeavor across the Iberian Peninsula. I also enjoyed learning about various Spanish towns and villages, where Eveleigh shares information about the region, legends, and cultural facts.
In short, I definitely recommend this book. It reminded me of the great value of enjoying life and, most importantly, every step of a trip, actively choosing to slow down in a world where fast has become the inescapable default.
Thank you, NetGalley, for the ARC. This review reflects my honest and personal views on the book.
I really enjoyed this book, not only because I’m the same age as the author and about to hike in Spain myself. Eveleigh decides to traverse Spain on foot from its southernmost point (Gibraltar) to its northernmost, sleeping only in a hammock. I particularly enjoyed the first part of his adventure, when he’s alone in a deserted landscape during the hottest summer ever recorded. In the second part, his trek intersects with the Camino de Santiago, where he encounters crowds of pilgrims and his writing becomes more informative. Overall, if you enjoy first-person hiking narratives, this is one of the best I’ve read.
A really good adventure/travel book. Mark Eveleigh walks from Gibraltar to Santiago, sleeping in his hammock at night, covering 30-40 kilometers a day one particularly hot summer. I enjoyed the mix of travel, history, encounters with other people, and I liked that it was not a religious pilgrimage, but a sense of adventure that drove him to walk. The book felt very adventurous - and masculine in that sense, there was very little in terms of explanation for the journey, but I personally quite liked that no back story was provided. It was enjoyable to read and I liked that he offers so many anecdotes and stories along the way.
Free ARC sent by Netgalley, this book was published on 8 August 2024.
I enjoyed the book as I do for every well written journey - especially on foot. However this felt a little contrived. Mark's walk was essentially a trek down the camino from Seville. The landscape was often dull and there were few interactions with others due to Mark's commitment to sleeping under the stars - which he generally did until the rain and cold of Northern Spain forced him indoors. His hammock was the basis for the book's title although a 30 day commitment to outdoor sleeping is hardly sufficient basis. Mark is an experienced travel writer so the book is easy to digest but it's biggest flaw is it's lack of authenticity.
The poet from Gloucestershire, Laurie Lee, walked across the length of Spain just before the country got embroiled in a fiery civil war. Acclaimed travel author and magazine writer, Mark Eveleigh decides to follow in the footsteps of Laurie Lee by undertaking a monumental walk all the way from Gibraltar to the northern most reaches of Spain. A mind-numbing distance of 1,225 kilometres! Vagabond is a stirring reminiscence of Eveleigh’s exploits and a rousing homage to the eclectic, boisterous and humanitarian spirit of rural Spain.
Armed with Laurie Lee’s audiobook recounting the traveler’s exploits, a motley collection of songs certain to instill hope in the cockles of every nomad’s heart and the wishes of his wife and daughter, Eveleigh begins his arduous journey from Gibraltar. Stringing his hammock across sturdy trees and walking for almost 30-40 kilometers every day, Eveleigh caterwauls his way across some of the most unique and inimitable rural landscapes in Spain.
Unmindful of obstinate blisters and obdurate terrains, Eveleigh traipses across quaint villages benefiting from the hospitality of absolute strangers. Muttering to himself in the typical manner of a solitary traveler’s habit, Eveleigh is reminded of Paul Theroux’s dictum in Ghost Train to the Eastern Star, ‘all writers, when they are alone, talk to themselves.’ The punishing plains of Extremadura, bearing the brunt of a blazing sun – el sol de justicia (the sun of justice) saps Eveleigh physically but fails to dampen his inveterate spirt of adventure, a spirit which remains latent in every human being till such time it is harnessed as a result of some deep and fulfilling calling.
Along with canteens for stocking and resupplying water, Eveleigh relies on a small 0.6-litre bottle – a survival device as he calls it – created by a company supplying filters for humanitarian use in Africa. Incorporating a microfilter membrane and an activated carbon filter, the device enables the owner to drink water even liberally and safely from sources that may be vastly different from the definitions of hygiene.
The book is an affirmation of humanity. Eveleigh finds kindred souls in every stage of his treacherous journey. Even when kitchens are closed (which invariably is the case whenever the tired traveler happens to visit a bar/restaurant), the proprietors whip up a couple of sandwiches and a liberal dose of vino. An encounter where a little girl undertakes and then actually pays the bus fare for Eveleigh (when on account of an unavoidable exigency, the author is forced to board a conveyance, albeit for a short distance) is a memorable one that brings a smile to the face of the reader.
Eveleigh blends a judicious mix of wit along with his chronicling of the trek. For example, he painstakingly informs his readers about the existence of a plethora of patron saints – “Santa Rosa is the patron saint of gardeners, florists, and embroiderers…. Santa Elena was patron saint of divorced people and people going through difficult marriages. Also of archaeologists, although it’s very hard to see what the connection might be. Alto de San Roque is the patron saint of pilgrims and dogs…”
Even animals and reptiles inhabiting the wild seem to acknowledge the superhuman endeavour of Eveleigh and take great pains to keep out of his way. A Gargantuan Montpellier snake spanning almost two metres in length and as thick as a human wrist displays an impeccable sense of propriety and civility when accidentally accosted by Eveleigh. Although taking its own time to slide lazily away into the wild, it shows no signs of hostility whatsoever. In an amusing episode, Eveleigh is jolted out of his wits when he comes face to face with a humongous wild boar. As the author himself confesses, what follows is a medley of cacophonous yells. Whether the chaotic noises emanated from the recesses of the human’s throat or escaped the vocal chords of the snarling boar – the matter is yet to be resolved – the boar flees the spot and hurtles towards the safety of the forests.
During the final leg of his journey, Eveleigh joins hordes of pilgrims making the famous Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage. Even though not a pilgrim himself, his phenomenal walk makes Eveleigh a pilgrim too. A pilgrim of human adventure, a pilgrim of resilience, a pilgrim of persuasion and more than anything else a pilgrim of purpose.
Vagabond is a testimony to the indefatigable human spirit. It is also a timely reminder that the world as we know it is an assemblage of what makes life worth living – care, compassion, and camaraderie!
I love the outdoors and cannot wait until I have the opportunity to take on some journeying, with long walking adventures to see other countries and bask in their cultures and the stories shared. This book shows us all of that absolutely beautifully. There are so many wonderful moments and experiences shared, as well as those odd smattering of less positive moments, such as bad weather or just getting caught out. I really felt like I got to know the author, but I also got the privilege of getting to know Spain, at least in the best way I possibly could, until I am able to go and do this walk myself. I really loved the level of detail, as well as how the author was able to share the journey with us, so that we could quite literally picture every piece of the surrounding to the point you felt you were there. It was fantastic.
The comment that this is "travel writing at its best" sums this up perfectly for me. It is well written and accessible. I learnt a lot about a number of subjects reading this and not simply Spain. Travelling as a hobo (an abbreviation of homeward bound, which I hadn't realised) the author walks from the south of Spain to its northern most point. The majority of nights are spent in the open and a cast of fascinating people run through this. Inevitably the subject of pilgrimage comes up as he spends time on 2 caminos however food, coffee, feet and life are all important parts of this. Quite a bit of fascinating history comes in too.
Certainly one of the best non fiction books I've read.
The book is interesting and provides an in-depth description of the various parts of Spain, including cultural observations and explanations. It was however disappointing to see that men were often described by their actions, e.g., playing cards, and women more often by their appearance and tight clothes, etc.
The author continually references Laurie Lee's journey through Spain on foot which is unfortunate as his trek lacks the poetic romance of Lee's in the same way his writing does.
I do enjoy traveling and travel books and this was no exception. Mark Eveleigh’s epic 1,225km hike from Gibraltar across the Iberian Peninsula to Estaca de Bares, almost as a modern day Laurie Lee, had me captivated from the first step to the last. With just a back pack, sleeping in a hammock and getting water and coffee where he could, this was a free, hobo/vagabond/incorrigible rogue experience with his observations of the landscape, people, culture and history of the area. Plagued by blisters, vipers and exceptional heat alongside the kindness of strangers, meeting locals and pilgrims whilst walking alone for extended periods, this was an incredible solo undertaking. Anyone interested in travel writing, the Spanish landscape and pilgrimage will enjoy this book. I certainly did.
It’s hard to make a book about walking interesting. In essence it’s page after page of - I woke, I walked, I ate & drank and I slept. What makes this an excellent read is the weaving of personal narrative and history. Having walked several Camino and read numerous books on the walks, this is one of the best books I’ve read. If you want to walk or have walked n Spain, you’ll enjoy this book.