Accidents in North American Mountaineering 2014: Know the Ropes: Snow Climbing

Accidents in North American Mountaineering #67

by American Alpine Club

Every year, novice climbers and experts are injured or killed by inadequate preparation and errors in judgment. Since 1948, the American Alpine Club has been documenting the year's most significant and teachable climbing accidents, providing invaluable lessons to climbers. In Accidents' "Know the Ropes" section, professional mountain guides detail the best practices for snow climbing to avoid slips that all-too-quickly become dangerous accidents. "Know the Ropes" offers in-depth instruction and copious illustration to help prevent avoidable snow-climbing accidents.

Genres: Mountaineering, Climbing, Reference

128 pages, Paperback

First published August 1, 2014

Reviews

[Vincent Sargenti · Rating 5 out of 5]

I always keep these on my nightstand for a little light reading before bed. I have been ordering one every year since the early 1990's. Exceptionally valuable information for anyone who ever thought about venturing into the wilderness, let alone becoming a climber.

[Andrew McLean · Rating 5 out of 5]

excellent.

This is of enormous significance as an educational resource on safety. I strongly recommend to all skiers and climbers. Very commendable.

[Jean Dupenloup · Rating 3 out of 5]

Nothing literary to review here...this is an academic resource.

As usual, the AAC has done a great job compiling the most relevant accidents of the year so we can learn from them.

[Raven · Rating 4 out of 5]

As both a Mount Rainier local and a Search and Rescue volunteer, I appreciated the snow climbing tips at the beginning of this volume particularly. The statistical analysis of what accidents or deaths are more likely where on Rainier was interesting, but I suspect a lot of that is a product of how many people climb that route more than an inherent feature of the mountain. I would have liked to see the math behind the map, not because I think they're wrong, but just because it's interesting. Other than that, another year's worth of educational experiences!

[Zardoz · Rating 4 out of 5]

Lots of good information for rock climbers and mountaineers. Detailed accident reports with an analysis of what could have been done to prevent the incident.
Was amazing to keep seeing the same factors pop up again and again in different accidents.
Also had a primer on climbing snow and ice with crampons which had different techinques to choose from, and a section on various Ranier routes with their hazards listed.

[Peter Sprengelmeyer]

What is say about this. I love reading these books, and there are lessons here about staying attentive, watching your limits, and maintaining redundancy. However, a large number of these still appear to be random acts - a falling rock, a partner slipping, or a lightening strike.

Stay safe out there.

[Patrick Andersen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Learn from the mistakes of others, stay humble and pay attention. An excellent overview of accidents on mountains that offers teaching moments for all outdoor users, not just alpinists and mountaineers.

[Doug Cornelius · Rating 4 out of 5]

The mountains are unforgiving. Sometimes you get lucky. I read this every year to learn from the mistakes is others. The goal is not to get to the top. It's to get home safely and climb again.

[Joanna]

As always, extremely educational.