Clouds From Both Sides

by Julie Tullis, Peter L. Gillman

The story of Julie Tullis, who began her career as a renowned mountaineer at age 38 and became the first British woman to climb an 8,000-meter Himalayan peak. 24 black-and-white photographs, 10 maps and charts.

Genres: Mountaineering, Nonfiction, Travel, Memoir, Autobiography

336 pages, Paperback

First published July 9, 1987

Reviews

[Nigel · Rating 4 out of 5]

For those who love stories of mountains and mountaineers this really is a must. The autobiography of someone who was the leading British female mountaineer of here time (with a final chapter by someone else) is an easy read. Deep in a philosophical vein about life and mountains and warmly interesting. A great book for those who are interested.

[Lillelara · Rating 4 out of 5]

4.5 stars

[Clara Mazzi · Rating 3 out of 5]

1943. Londra è sotto i bombardamenti tedeschi e la Liverpool Street Station quel giorno era gremita di bambini che indossavano una maschera antigas. Le loro mamme si tenevano indietro, chiacchieravano tra di loro, cercavano di trasmettere un’idea di vacanza, di normalità, in quel frangente in cui, per cercare di salvare la popolazione, i bambini di Londra sono stati evacuati, senza dare alcuna indicazione ai genitori sulla loro destinazione, sempre per motivi di sicurezza, né per quanto tempo sarebbero stati lontani dalle loro famiglie. Tra quei bambini, due sorelle, una di 6 anni, Zita, e una di 4, Julie. Julie Tullies.
No, non sono le protagoniste delle nuove avventure di Narnia, ma è con questo ricordo che Julie decide di raccontare la sua vita, che inizia durante la seconda guerra mondiale (nasce nel 1939) e che viene poi vissuta appieno negli anni Settanta, conformemente allo spirito di quegli anni.
Julie e Terry si sposano presto e vanno a vivere in campagna, nel Sussex (a High Rocks) dove si impegnano per una vita nella natura (hanno presto anche due bambini), dove insegnano a scalare, dove si dedicano ai ragazzi difficili (sia per carattere che per handicap), dove cambiano lavoro più o meno ogni 7 anni, anteponendo sempre la loro joie de vivre alla sicurezza economica (per un po’, vivranno anche in un camper).
Gli anni passano e il caso vuole che Kurt Diemberger, la famosa guida austriaca che aveva due 8000 da primo alle spalle, che aveva fatto parte della spedizione al Nanga del 1953, conquistato da Buhl in solitaria, andasse a scalare proprio a High Rocks. Conosce Julie e i due, nel giro di qualche tempo, costituiscono un team formidabile e Julie diventa la sua assistente cinematografica. Girano per tutto il mondo insieme, lei scalerà sul Broad Peak e sarà la prima donna sul K2 – dove però poi anche purtroppo, morirà.
Una storia di vita abbastanza interessante perché contestualizzata (gli anni Settanta, la sicurezza economica vista come una prigione della libertà d’espressione, una coppia flessibile – non sessualmente, ma aperta a lasciare una grande indipendenza sia a lui che a lei, pur restando molto attaccati) ma non la storia di una vera e propria alpinista, di qualcuno che vede nella montagna la realizzazione di sé. Soprattutto un libro shiptoniniano, dove non c’è spazio (come da buona tradizione britannica) per le riflessioni personali, per i momenti di dubbio ma solo per le descrizioni “pratiche e concrete”: dei viaggi, delle difficoltà, della natura. Un peccato, perché Julie ne aveva di pensieri ma li registrava su un piccolo magnetofono e non li ha mai considerati materia o materiale interessante, quando invece proprio loro avrebbero potuto fare la differenza e rendere il ritratto di questa donna molto in gamba, un ricordo indelebile e di spessore, mentre invece, purtroppo, col tempo, una storia del genere attirerà un pubblico sempre minore. Non era comunque intenzione di Julie di diventare immortale e indubbiamente ha scritto un testo che le corrisponde, coerente con sé stessa e la sua educazione britannica nell’abbracciare il lato personale della vita.

[Tamara Covacevich · Rating 5 out of 5]

Finished in a bunkhouse in Wales.
Have been wanting to read this one for years, a woman badass British mountaineer? Yes please.
It surprised me! I didn't expect to learn about the origin of Harrison rocks (now I'm more keen to go battle the sandstone), the spirit and trade offs of and adventurous lifestyle, and a different side of Himalayan exploration. Also about friendship.

"Over the years we have sacrificed quite a lot financially to enjoy the lifestyle we have chosen, but no money could possibly buy the adventures and pleasure we have had"
"Rock climbing and mountaineering are activities very akin to the martial arts in that you can be shown the way but most of the discovering you must do for yourself. This is what makes both extremely exciting to teach"
"Rock climbing is a sport which leaves time for conversation"
"He discovered on Pisco that he preferred climbing smaller mountains (...) he enjoys more gentle mountaineering. One of the delights of the sport is that it offers so much choice"
"I climb purely for pleasure, and although at times i want to have the fun of leading, deciding where the route goes and being on the more dangerous sharp end of the rope, I also enjoy the added possibilities that the security of the rope from above gives to try out more difficult moves and variations"
"The initial difficulty is that I do need time alone to come back from one world to another, which appears very anti-social when I have been away for so long"
"The only inevitable thing in life after birth is death and the bit in the middle is terribly short, there is no time to be wasted"
"Was it really only the previous summer that I had learnt the thrill of exploring these wild places?"
"We were both very calm after the accident but decided to shelter under another large serac and make some to to alleviate any delayed shock"
"I always stress that it does not matter how many exams they pass, or how much money they accumulate in later life, if they do not have good health nothing can help them get full pleasure from life"

[Jen · Rating 3 out of 5]

I am not a climber, nor do I plan to be one, but it didn’t matter while reading this book. The chapters in which Julie Tullis narrates her experiences on some of the most challenging mountain peaks in the world are simultaneously practical and emotional. She builds an affinity with the reader so that the less adventurous can imagine the drive to make a summit, despite a clear understanding of the dangers.

I do wish the first half of the book was much shorter. Too much time is spent on childhood and early marriage years. While early experiences surely affect a person’s path in life, the reading just wasn’t as engaging as the introduction and the last several chapters. Also missing from my experience were photos and maps that may have helped my understanding of the routes and the conditions. I read an e-book version. I believe a hard copy version would include photos, at least.

Despite the length and lack of visual media, it was a highly satisfying read. It is a much more sympathetic look at high altitude climbing than other books I have read on the topic. Julie Tullis was revolutionary in so many ways, and her memoir is an excellent tribute to her achievements.

[Lynn Latham · Rating 4 out of 5]

The story of an amazing and extremely strong lady, the first to climb K2 in 1986, about whom I knew nothing before reading this book which I received to read and review. I admired her determination though her family life must have suffered. Technical in places but throughout is shown the warmth, support and friendship shown by her to other climbers and the youngsters she had worked with. A lady who died far too early but on the mountain she so loved after conquering HER K2 summit with good friend Kurt, who did survive. Her lifelong ambition had been achieved but at a cost. Thanks to Jellybooks.

[Tracy Pena · Rating 4 out of 5]

I would never climb a mountain, but I certainly enjoy reading books about people climbing mountains, and this was a good one. I wish the book was more interactive. I read it on iPad but keep popping over to look things up. She spoke about places I wanted to see and used terminology I wanted to know...I was constantly searching things as I read. This book was thoroughly riveting. Especially that last chapter. Knowing how it ends made some of the things she said in her book so devastating in hindsight. Beautiful book.

[Kat · Rating 4 out of 5]

Took a while to get started, but as it was a biography, not just a climbing memoir I forgave this. I found her writing style very appealing and interesting, but it's always sad when you know they won't be writing any more. I appreciated the last chapter, written by Peter Gilman, even though I have read many accounts of the the 1986 K2 tragedy. She really did have an interesting life.
My copy had one map in the wrong place though - the Nanga Parbat 1985 map came before the 1983 map.

[Katrina Fox · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book was a very enjoyable read. Her writing was easy to read and made it feel like you were there. The last chapter was devastating when it was someone else writing as you knew the worst had happened to her. This book is a touching tribute to such a strong and fearless woman.

[Ronald Turnbull · Rating 4 out of 5]

A minor classic of mountaineering: she took up Himalayan 8000-ers in her 40s, and died on one of them a few years later. An engaging read, and the final chapter by Peter Gillman is the best account of the bad year on K2 that took away three of the early women mountaineers.

[Fiona Maxwell · Rating 4 out of 5]

I first read this 30 years ago and re-read it whilst trekking to K2 basecamp. A sad reminder of the fragile life of mountaineers, but providing an insight into what drives them to take such risks.

[iain roberts · Rating 5 out of 5]

A story of obsession

A good read part biography and part a story of the selfish obsession that is Himalayan mountaineering. Recommended for all armchair adventurers

[Robin Gregory · Rating 5 out of 5]

The incredible life story of Julie Tullis. Very well written and an absorbing read. Strongly recommended.

[Steve Chilton · Rating 4 out of 5]

Brill to read a great mountaineering book by a female, and one that often gets down and dirty (in a mountaineering sense). She was an ordinary person who did extraordinary things. Very enjoyable read and a memorable record of this amazing life. This book should inspire others.

[Shuja · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a tale of courage, determination and bravery. ...Bravo Julie !!. I wish you could have lived to write up the last chapter of your biography. She says mountains are like people. Each mountain has a face and a mood. You can get angry at them and they can at you. Statements like these can be difficult to comprehend for some one who has not been to the mountains..Or lets say..around the mountains..:). Its amazing how humans can push themselves beyond boundaries of pain. Just imagine yourself stuffed with another person in 6 * 4 feet tent up in 7000 meters plus peak. The temperature is well below -30. You are wearing layers of clothes and pull overs. The pull over on the top has a zip which has to be unzipped from back. And you suddenly develop a stomach. The only way it to attend a call of nature. How to maneuver your self in that tight space. Unzip the pull over and crouch out of the tent for a release? And at the same time prevent your self from falling off the peak as your tent is placed on a the available few square feet. Only she could have done this. Only she could have laughed at it later. She died on a decent from K2.

[Debra · Rating 5 out of 5]

I read this book about 18 years ago with my book group. My husband had been climbing for a number of years so any climbing book had a personal connection for me but this one got extra press because Julie was a mother. This book tells the story of her attempt on Everest which ended fatally. It is beautifully told in the first person and then by her climbing partner. Incredibly moving and well written.

[Sarah · Rating 4 out of 5]

Interesting climbing memoir, made particularly poignant in the edition I read by the account of her death on K2. She went into some details that I feel are often glossed over in these books, regarding how the human body fares at altitude.

[Snicketts · Rating 4 out of 5]

I read this years ago and enjoyed it. As I recall it was quite liberal with the gory details of mountaineering. I also remember the shock as the author's narrative ended to be replaced by the reports of her death and the impact it had on her family. Touching, harrowing and very interesting.

[Rory · Rating 5 out of 5]

Tullis told a wonderful story. I found it hard to put the book down between readings. She wove her own experiences into a story full of wonderful successes and characters. The last chapter was quite a shock in comparison to the rest of the book and I feel a deep sadness upon its completion.

[Lorrraine Ayling · Rating 5 out of 5]

The only book I have read 3 times

[Branny · Rating 4 out of 5]

Climbers seem to have a death wish