Aimless in Banaras: Wanderings in India's Holiest City

by Bishwanath Ghosh

While cremating his mother at the famed Manikarnika Ghat, Bishwanath Ghosh pretended he was a writer collecting material for a future book rather than a grieving son—his way of dealing with the last rites. A few years later, he returns to Banaras to write that book.

Plunging into its timeless aura, he roams its ghats and galis, sails through the cool breeze of the Ganga, walks through the heat of funeral pyres. One moment he is observing a sadhu show off his penile strength, in the next he is on a boat with a young woman who has been prophesied to marry seven times; one moment he is in conversation with the celebrated writer Kashinath Singh, who is an atheist, and in the next he is having tea with a globe- trotting priest and a god-fearing doctor ... Ghosh finds a story in every bend as he engages with quintessential Banarasis—their paan-stuffed mouths spouting expletives and wisdom with equal flair—and discovers why they are among the happiest people on earth.

Then one evening at Manikarnika, as he emerges from a temple, wearing ash from the cremation ground on his forehead, he finds a bit of Banaras in himself.

Aimless in Banaras is not only a sensuous portrait of India’s holiest city but also a meditation on life—and death.

Genres: Travel, Travelogue, India, Nonfiction, Cultural

253 pages, Paperback

First published December 16, 2019

About the author

Bishwanath Ghosh is a writer, journalist and poet, born on 26 December 1970 in Kanpur. After spending much of his working life in Chennai, he is now settled in Calcutta, where he presently serves as an associate editor with The Hindu newspaper. His books include:

1. Jiyo Banaras (जियो बनारस), a collection of Hindi poems on Banaras, published January 2022;
2. Aimless in Banaras: Wanderings in India’s Holiest City (2019);
3. Gazing at Neighbours: Travels Along the Line That Partitioned India (2017);
4. Longing, Belonging: An Outsider at Home in Calcutta (2014);
5. Tamarind City: Where Modern India Began (2012), which is a portrait of Madras, now known as Chennai.
6. Chai, Chai: Travels in Places Where You Stop but Never Get Off (2009), which The Telegraph (Calcutta) called "a delightful travelogue with a difference".

He also contributed two stories to Urban Shots, a collection of short stories published in 2010.

Reviews

[Ashish Iyer · Rating 2 out of 5]

Sadly, I didn't like this book at all. Maybe because i have been to this beautiful city. I would rather say explore the city instead of reading this book and book does have condescending tone which was a huge turnoff for me. I was expecting more of historical details as well and author didn't went beyond ghats. I wish he had explore the entire city. Banaras still awaits a comprehensive travelogue which caters to general audience.

[Sairam Krishnan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very enjoyable, very entertaining (and very aimless, as the title suggests) rickshaw ride through Banaras. Ghosh is a perceptive observer of the small things; His Tamarind City is easily one of the best books written about Madras. Aimless in Banaras is not in that league, but it is a very welcome addition to the list of light and accessible Indian writing in English about Banaras. When I was looking for something like this to read around 2016 or so, there were only books like Diana L Eck's City of Light (a brilliant book, mind you), and others like that, but nothing to give the new generation a taste of what to expect and admire when they visit.

But that doesn't mean Ghosh's book is light reading. It has its rather lovely moments, but all of them are subtle and slight, like a slow evening wind. They make you feel something, but don't make you dwell on them so much that you feel sad. I think that is the writer's success with this book: Taking something of the magnitude and historical significance of India's holiest city, and rendering it into something as tasty and filling as a glass of delicious thandai.

Recommended.

PS - They could have done a much better job with the cover, though. You had all of Banaras to choose from, and that is what the marketing team chose?

[Nishu Thakur · Rating 2 out of 5]

Okayish book. Nothing new to offer.

[Naveen · Rating 3 out of 5]

Title: Aimless in Banaras
Author: Biswanath Ghosh
Genre: Fiction
Rating: 3/5
A cheap deal on amazon kindle books led me to this along with many other books. Having read his other books (longing belonging on Calcutta, Gazing the neighbours and Chai Chai), I am a fan of his simple yet effective writing. But I was somewhat disappointed in this book. I had visited Banaras thrice in my life and had a fair bit of idea about the place. As expected, out of any travelogue, either the book touches the important places of city or the essence of that city or both. Unlike longing belonging about Calcutta, this book fails on both the parts. In 230 pages you can’t really do justice to the legacy of a city as old as civilization but author has introduced some unwanted and incoherent characters which don’t do justice to what he is capable of. Maybe if this was my first book from author I wouldn’t have been so critical of it. But having seen his capability in Chai Chai and Calcutta book, I can’t help myself get critical of this one.
Its not that this book doesn’t have a positive side to it. If you have ever visited Banaras in your life, this book will invoke nostalgia about Assi , Daswamedh ghats and Godowlia. It talks about the devil may care attitude of a Banarasi. One good recommendation coming out of the Book is “Kashi ka Assi” by Kashinath Singh, a Hindi marvel on Assi Ghat. This book is about understanding banaras and how it deals with the unshakable truth “Death”.
Maybe this book was true to its tite , it was all about wandering Aimlessly in Banaras , a city older than civilization.

[Abhinav · Rating 4 out of 5]

If one doesn't go into this expecting it to be some sort of guidebook about Banaras, one wouldn't be disappointed. The narrative is meandering & unstructured for the most part but I suppose the point Ghosh tries to make here is that the spirit of Banaras, like all great cities of the world, lives on in its people even as tourism & "development" bring about irreversible changes all around.

Upwards of 3 & a half stars. Worthwhile read.

[Sanjoy Saha · Rating 3 out of 5]

Easy read, informative with fair dose of trivia and small talks about the city and its people that matches the image i had from my previous visit. Expected bit more of historical details and philosophical depth.

[Aditi Bhatt · Rating 5 out of 5]

I knew about the existence of “Aimless in Banaras” since the time it was published. But I didn’t know about its greatness until I read it before/while/after visiting Banaras. I began this practice of reading a book about a place before/while visiting it around 4 months back with Anuradha Beniwal’s “Azadi mera brand” and Manav Kaul’s “Bahut door kitna door hota hai” before visiting a few countries in Europe. Reading this way not only adds to my excitement of the upcoming trip but also feeds my meticulous brain with the to-dos. However, this Banaras trip was pretty spontaneous and I had no agenda except meeting my friend who wanted to visit the city. I have no idea why he chose Banaras. I, on the other hand, just chose to meet him.

I had my doubts over why the book is named “Aimless in Banaras” when I felt the author had clear aims for visiting the holy city. But after visiting Banaras, I realised, even if you have an aim, you will lose your focus to the chaos of Banaras that takes you to a simplicity within. There lies no aim, nothing; you loose the meaning of your own existence by what you witness around. This idea is (kinda) supported in the initial pages of the book when the author describes the last rites of his mother. Honestly, the whole episode was heart wrenching for me. My stomach twisted, my chest tightened and I was forced to take little breaks while reading it. (I think it might be because I had met the author personally and knew him a bit). Everyone says that everything is uncertain; that you would never know what happens next. But ironically after the death of the mother, everything was certain. There was a certain way to do everything. Ghosh was asked to wear certain clothes, the priest indulged in making a certain paste and asked Ghosh to apply it on the floor in a certain manner. There was even a certain way to light the pyre along with a hundred other certain steps to follow thereafter. Even death is certain, it is just the timing which is uncertain. And it only impacts certain people, the rest of the world rotates as it usually does, day and night. This can be clearly witnessed at the Manikarnika or Harishchandra Ghat where life flows and burns simultaneously. The author even writes in the book how he and his brother are devastated while carrying their mother on a cot for the funeral while everyday objects like sachets of shampoo and paan masala hanging in shops brushed past their (heavy) shoulders. Even while his mother’s pyre was burning, life was flowing organically around. Dogs and cows were roaming around feasting on trash and, humans were sipping hot tea and chatting about anything and everything.

However, after his mother’s funeral, the author comes to Banaras again. But this time, he doesn’t visit Banaras, he stays in Banaras. The ghats and galis are where the author spends most of his time. It is interesting to read (and then eventually experience in real life) how life flows in the million streets of Banaras, each one different from the other, with humans, cows, dogs, monkeys, vehicles, chai, chaat, gobar, gamchha and paan. Upon visiting the city, even I could resonate with these words in the book: “Banaras, that is Kashi, is essentially a network of galis set against the ghats.” The author’s writing is fairly simple to read, understand and relate because of the brilliant description of the ghats, the river, the other side of the river and the temples. Ghosh writes in detail about life boiling out of every space and corner in Banaras which creates perfect images and helps the reader develop a mental map. I could personally relate with almost everything when I was in the city. It felt as if I had already visited Banaras.

What I loved the most about “Aimless in Banaras” is the diversity of characters - astrologer, distinguished writers, shopkeepers, chaiwallahs, panipuri wallah, people selling wood for cremation, professors, doctors, rickshaw wallahs, boatmen, wrestlers, singer, students, priests, politician, paanwallah although mostly men. They all take spaces in the book, each with their unique personalities, habits, beliefs, values and stories but there’s one thing common in all of them - they all love Banaras from the bottom of their hearts.

Additional (personal) note :
The author emphasizes on one of his major learnings in the city of Banaras which, in fact, many visitors relate to, that Banaras teaches them not to worry. This thought emerges from the burning pyres at the Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghat teaching those who view the cremations that death is certain. We are eventually going to die and turn to ashes while others will also be turning to ashes beside us. Honestly, I was pretty disturbed to view the cremations there but people were acting quite ordinarily. Even my friend who accompanied me said that death is a celebration here and one should learn not to be afraid of it. But I’m afraid I don’t think I understand that. I am fearful of death, probably not my own but certainly of my loved ones. And, I don’t think I can learn to let that go. Or maybe, I can. But that will require more visits to Banaras but I don’t think, that way I will be “Aimless in Banaras”.

[Saumya · Rating 5 out of 5]

4.5 Stars | Part of Around India in Books

Last night I had a dream: I was young, probably in pre-teens, and I was visiting a ghat in Banaras. It was dusk, and there was a great bustle around us, Banaras comes alive in the evenings. The river was shimmering with light from diyas, lamps and electric lights, and I was holding onto my mother's hands, afraid that I would be swept away by the crowd. I could sense that I was excited; about what, I can't seem to remember. We walked along the ghats, and I looked with awe at the river, at the wooden platforms, and at the people. Later, when we were done, the four of us - me, my mother, father and younger brother - hopped on to one of those famous cycle-rickshaws of Banaras and headed home, the cycle-rickshaw drawing itself with much difficulty in between the crowded streets.

The dream was both a product of this book and some of my memories from Banaras. You see, long long ago, I lived there.

Aimless in Banaras is simple. The author cremates his mother at the famous Manikarnika Ghat, and in a twisted sense of handling his grief, he pretends to be collecting mental notes for a future book on Banaras. He comes back a few years later, and hence begins his journey through the alleys and ghats quintessential to Banaras, and somewhere along the way he discovers the Banaras within himself. Sounds simple, no?

But Banaras is not so simple. It's an intricate city with generations of dwellers and stories; stories of origin, stories of daily lives, stories of Shiva. A couplet mentioned in the book best describes the city: ‘Yeh ajeeb sheher hai, bada mast sheher hai’

Reading this book was like walking with Ghosh through the galis and ghats - hearing him talk to these strangers, listening about their lives and why, despite a wealth of options, they choose to stay on in Banaras. It was beautiful and inexplicable, it left me with a longing for visiting this city, my city, the city of my childhood, a city which I remember for it's monkeys and Kathak classes and picnics by the river. A city which was right in front of my eyes, but far from my understanding; a city I wish to explore with these fresh eyes, eyes that will see the nooks and corners and appreciate their heritage.

Aimless in Banaras was simple, simply because it wasn't extravagant. Banaras is not extravagant, it is the city of light, death and happiness. Ghosh summarizes Banaras beautifully:

The ghats and galis of Banaras—where time and again you are reminded of the biggest and unshakeable truth of life, that anyone born has to die—teach you to be your own guru.

Link to Notes and Highlights: https://www.goodreads.com/notes/50050...

[Adite · Rating 3 out of 5]

I picked up this book while I was visiting the city. In fact I bought it at the very same Kashi Annapurna book store that features in the pages of this travelogue. It begins with the author's own experience when he visits Banaras to perform the last rites of his mother. On that intimate note, the author's discovery of the city promises to take the reader into uncharted territory...one that goes beyond the guidebooks and finds hidden gems. To a certain extent the author does achieve that. Particularly in the little known facets of the city's iconic locations. The narrative's "aimless" nature however turns into a meandering hodge-podge of anecdotes with random people. Some of the episodes are interesting but they never really become more than just random episodes. Also, the manner in which some of these meetings are written read more like a journalist's notes rather than a well-structured narrative. The final chapters do manage to regain some of the appeal of the book's premise. A little more attention to the narrative structure of the book would have surely gone a long way in making the book as memorable as the city it covers.

[Vanshika Gaur · Rating 5 out of 5]

If you are perplexed about life and its purpose, you must read Aimless in Banaras by Biswanath Ghosh sir. I came across this book while I was aimlessly browsing through my Amazon feed. I found my mood so resonating with the title that I had to read the book. The book has been placed in the fiction genre but the book is rather a biography of the living city of lights, music, colors, hopes and salvation. As the author himself says, Varanasi is not just a city, it is a living soul with the galis being its blood vessels and the Godowlia Chauraha as its heart which teaches you the deepest secrets of life.
The author talks about not just the frequently discussed places but the core of Banaras. Ranging from the birth of the city to the current day Banaras, you'll find the stories of Banaras beautifully stringed in the book. The book tells us about the ghats obviously, the river , the galis, the tea stalls, the cafes, the restaurants, the book shops, the hotels, the religious beliefs, the cusswords, the paan, the chaat, the art and craft , the sadhus, the scholars, the migrants, the natives, the foreigners, the students , the professors, and everything you can think under the sun that rises here.
The idea of this book was born on Manikarnika Ghat while the author was destined there to cremate his mother. And further the book explains the straight line between life and death which we somehow imagine to be a complicated path. The author has written the course during which he was exploring the city for this book and this beautiful style of writing is truly fascinating.
The book explain how an aimless tour of the city can help you sharpen your focus on the aims you have set for yourself.

[Durgesh Deep · Rating 4 out of 5]

Some of my highlights from this book:-

Varanasi is the fusion of Varuna and Asi, the two rivers that meet the Ganga here, their confluences barely seven kilometers apart.

‘Banaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.’ - Mark Twain

To find Banaras i must lose myself in the galis of Banaras.

Banarasis believe that sitting on the ghat can take away your worries.

Like the juice of the paan, cusswords too are always brimming in the mouth of a Banarasi, waiting to be spat out.

Large part of the Banaras seen today was built by two women - the Maratha queen Ahilyabai Holkar and a benevolent Bengali Zamindar called Rani Bhabani.

In Banaras, if you are meeting someone, the venue is invariably Assi Ghat.

Babylon perished, but Banaras has survived.

I found people of Banaras to be wise because they seemed to be acutely aware that nothing in life is permanent.

One more thing - a very important thing - is fast disappearing from Banaras: laughter. People were in the habit of laughing out loudly, it came naturally to them.

ASSI is a Banaras within Banaras-more Banaras than the rest of Banaras.

‘South Indian food in Banaras tastes any day better than the food you get in South India.’

In Banaras, no one preaches to you. You learn from its pyres and its people.

[S.Ach · Rating 3 out of 5]

Last year, when I visited Banaras, I regret that I failed to truly appreciate the significance of this ancient holy city. The mystery of why people across religions, races, and creeds seek salvation here—the holiest of cities for Hindus—remained beyond my comprehension. Despite claims of extensive development along the ghats of late, I found them still unclean and lacking in any sense to offer any place for finding peace or wisdom. Yet, since countless saints have discovered profound truths on the banks of the Ganges, I attribute my inability to grasp its greatness solely to my own ignorance and shortcomings.

In an effort to understand the city better, I turned to books. True to habit, I chose the easiest one to read first. Unfortunately, it proved tad disappointing. Rather than deepening my impression of Banaras, it diminished even the few pleasant associations I had—such as its food. The book read more like a monotonous travelogue, filled with unremarkable details of the author’s encounters with various people in the city. The meetings with Kashinath Singh, the author of Kashi Ka Assi (which I think I should pick up next) was an interesting stand-out.

Still, for those seeking a light read, this book can be picked up. But be prepared: you may find yourself just as aimless as the author by the end.

[Viju · Rating 4 out of 5]

Having read the author’s Chai Chai (which I couldn’t really appreciate) and Tamarind City (which failed you evoke any emotion in me about Chennai), I looked this book with a little bit of apprehension. And boy - I was wrong!

The first part of the book starts out like Chai Chai for the most part but the real book is in the second part when the author goes back in 2018 to Banaras (after being the first time a few years back). I really loved the interactions he had with multiple people in Banaras and constructed his version of the city.

I must also say Bishwanath Ghosh has definitely matured as a writer and there are some really good philosophical remarks strewn around which I felt did fit in this book quite well! This also evoked the whole ‘wanting to travel again’ side of me - but that’ll have to wait!

[Ramaswamy N · Rating 4 out of 5]

As the name suggests.. Its aimless. But treads a narrow path of the city.. It makes me want to visit the city of Banaras.. Soon.

[Shweta Ashra · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent read ! Few cities like Banaras and Kolkata bring out that child like curiosity in me .This book did justice to that curiosity and when I will visit Banaras someday, I know I will go to all places and will experience it in a way that could have been difficult without this book 📚📖

[Abhinav Bhattacharya · Rating 5 out of 5]

I am a Bengali - a Hindu Bengali! Lived in Kolkata for the first twenty odd years of my life. Yet - I have never been to one of the holiest of Hindu shrines - Banaras!


Banaras - also variously known as Kashi, Benares or Varanasi used to be a must see place for Hindus till maybe a few decades ago - when the ushering in of economic liberalization and cheap air travel changed the travel destinations to the exotic locales of South East Asia or Middle East if not Europe and America!


So unlike the generation before me - I hadn't been exposed to the few landmarks of a Bengali travel guide - Darjeeling, Banaras, Puri, Digha to name a few! I have since been lucky enough to visit a few of these - but never Banaras - hopefully someday soon though!


Going through the travelogues of acclaimed author and journalist Bishwanath Ghosh, I finished off his currently published works by turning to the last page of his "Aimless in Banaras". Having read his four previous works - 'Chai Chai', 'Tamarind City', 'Longing Belonging' and 'Gazing At Neighbours' - I had some idea about what to expect from him in his portrait of what many claim to be India's holiest city.




But Bishwanath blew me away. Not only is the book deeply personal, it also shows perhaps his growth as an author and as a human being - and the journey is spell-bounding.


My only previous idea about Banaras was from 'Joy Baba Felunath' - a detective novel featuring Feluda by the maestro Satyajit Ray! Published nearly half a century ago, and written by someone whom Bishwanath would definitely refer to as the stereotypical Bengali "Bhadralok" - the book was a favourite of mine! Even while reading it in the beginning of the twenty-first century - the book easily transported me back to the grander older times when Banaras was a holiday home of sorts for rich and well to do Bengalis - as much as a cultural destination as a spiritual one. And Ray's novel written in such a different style and aimed at teenagers and below - had a different texture and feel about it.


What Bishwanath has done is - he has peeled away the layers of spirituality and political correctness from the city. He has viewed it through the lens of an objective bystander rather than an active participant in the various customs and rituals which make Banaras what it is.


As per the norm, he talks about the people who make up the city and how they view the place where they were born in, stayed for most of their lives and most of whose greatest wish would be to cremated in Banaras - and attain spiritual nirvana - rather than going through the tedious cycles of rebirth.


But even then the contradictions - between past and present, between science and spirituality, between religion and technology - which seem so effortless in the city are captured beautifully! Even though he could have easily come across as sarcastic or preachy, he instead keeps true to his journalistic virtue and offers an accurate description of what he sees - leaving it up to the reader to form his own opinion.


Inspite of all this, the book is also deeply personal to the author - and the connect which he feels shines through his words which are somehow resplendent with feelings. Much more so than his other works!


While you, along with me and countless others wait for his next volume to come up - please do read 'Aimless in Banaras' - Bishwanath Ghosh's most connected travel diary so far. You will regret missing this one!

Read the full review and others at my Blog: https://www.uprootedbong.com/blog

[Suman Joshi · Rating 4 out of 5]

A breezy, delightful read. A personal yet dispassionate account of what is believed to be the oldest living city in the world in which the author traces the history, mythology and various other factors that make the city the fabled one it is. I travelled to Varanasi (read my account here : https://link.medium.com/PO4TjKMe57) a year and half ago and like the author remarks about tourists -I too “checked the boxes”. After reading this I realised all that I had missed !
The author through this tale that explores the city and its landmarks of the Vishwanath temple, the ghats, the galis and the many worlds they all straddle. The tales of the clash and yet almost harmonious co existence of science and faith, (the electronics engineering professor who runs the temple trust and the doctor duo with the many rings on their fingers who are both men of science and faith ) of tradition (the daum raja is most intriguing)and modernity ( Zumba classes and European cafes in the midst of local eateries) kept me engaged . The author touches upon the politics of development through the ones affected most by it and the many lessons it has for everyone. Not all of us may like all that we read about the corridor getting built but the views by a cross section only shows the abiding faith of the people of Varanasi that “nothing in Kashi moves without the wishes of Vishwanath”. Their embrace of death as just another event and how it moulds their personalities is indeed heartwarming .
The only miss I thought was, the city’s Islamic heritage is not given it’s due . While the author talks about the weavers and their craft it almost feels perfunctory in the overall scheme of things for if Benaras was the city of Tulsidas it is also the city of Bismillah Khan !
The notes about women who made modern day Varanasi was indeed interesting. Yet,I wonder if a woman writer today would’ve been able to explore the depths as well! Talk about regression !
When I returned from my trip of Varanasi almost two years ago, I thought I had seen it all and I was sure I would not be going back there again and said so too but added a “never say never again” disclaimer as an after thought . Now I feel maybe just maybe the city may call me again - is it the divine call of Kashi Vishwanath? 🤪Kudos on fabulous, written from-the-heart book
P.s: I was relieved to read that there are others who thought that the Ganga Aarti event was a sham !

[Mallika Ahuja · Rating 5 out of 5]

This work is a portrayal of the city of Ghats, known by its various names ie Banaras during ancient times, Benares during the British rule, now Varanasi, the city is known to be denoted by the jigsaw of narrow lanes, exhibiting the cycle of life & death , moksha and more. Depicting life as a straight line between birth & death and not as a puzzle, this book by Biswanath Ghosh offers a journey into one of the world's oldest city, Kashi. The portrayal of sunsets and sunrises in the city untouched by the passage of time, draws a beautiful image of Banaras. Surrounded by its ghats, sadhus, boatmen, salvation seekers and other city dwellers Varanasi is the subject of awe for anyone who visits. The book literally took me there and made me feel the leisurely rhythem at which the heart of this city beats. The book not only ventures into the soul of the city but also mentions some of the places specially temples which are worth visiting once you get to Banaras. Thoroughly researched, this book provides a lingering craving to visit the soulful Banaras. The streets of Banaras are described as the levelers since they are known for eradicating the class differences. It wasnt before reading this one did I realise that the essence of this city lies in its cots, parasols, maaseurs, boatman and pilgrims as well. The book also suggests that Banaras and banarasis are epitome of acceptance, since they welcome everyone into their city and hearts with open arms. The ones mentioned in the book are not just wanderings in Banaras but are clearly the author's attempts to develop and convey a deeper understanding of the city and its dwellers. It really is a compelling read and it brings to the reader a lingering taste of that Banarasi Paan and the refreshing tea along with the beautiful sketch of the ghats drawn by the rising and setting sun. Reading this one was a great experience, the informal writing style of the author made me feel as if Banaras is being experienced first handedly by my own self. Biswanath Ghosh made the city come alive in the best way possible, the book would surely inspire you to visit this vivacious, culturally adorned city.

[She Reads · Rating 4 out of 5]

The enigma of life and death is still unknown to human kind. The wanderer and author 'Bishwanath' is also intrigued with the happy vibes and the beliefs of the people living in Banaras, also called "Kashi". For them, Death is inevitable and it is natural. There is vivid description of ghats like Dashashwamedh, Assi, Darbhanga and so on. The lanes of the city holds many stories and the whiff of air holds the legacy and culture. Author is trying to understand them and live by them. He mentions that people there are detached from materialistic demands and are content. The author is moved by Manikarnika ghat as he witnesses the cremation of his mother there. But, gradually accepts that this is a reality from which no one can escape. The acceptance is the dire truth.

The philosophical touch of this splendid meaning of life is the real quintessance of the book. There are bodies burning and the cremation ground doesn't leave any smell in the air. It is firmly believed that these grounds are the way towards salvation.

Author has beautifully described how Lord Shiva created Kashi. The meaning of the trident of Lord Shiva that is based on "Faith, Fact and Fiction." There are also stories that describe how Shiva's 'Lingam' was created.

If you like to read a philosophical book with the essence of life and its meaning, this is for you.

[Abhishek · Rating 5 out of 5]

I picked up this book waiting at an airport just browsing the bookstore. The first few pages described author's experience of cremation of his mom, something I did myself literally about 10 days ago.

Mark of a good writer for me is someone who can paint a picture in vivid detail with words & Mr. Ghosh does that to utter perfection. I really connected to his internal monologue while going through the motions of the ceremony.

After that I just couldn't stop. At the end of this book I am already planning a trip to Kashi myself for a week atleast to immerse myself in the serenity of the place and maybe appreciate what I've got a little more.

Although living outside India does present some serious challenges to fulfill this particular desire, I'm now sure that I'll have to find a way to overcome these hurdles.

A very well written collection of anecdotes through which Mr. Ghosh tries to present the soul of the city. He succeeded in convincing the reader that they're not just reading about the experience, they're feeling the emotions of those experiences as well.

While I enjoyed this vicarious trip to Banaras, I'll look forward to making my own trip for real pretty soon.

If you're on the edge, I'd say go for it. The book is worth the price.

[Bhavtosh Pandey · Rating 4 out of 5]

बनारस में बेवजह (Aimless in Banaras )by Bishvanth Ghosh
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वैसे बिना वजह तो कुछ भी नहीं होता है ;लेकिन हाँ एक चीज़ ज़रूर हो सकती है वह है बनारस में आपका खो जाना | आप खोकर बहुत कुछ सीख सकते हैं , पा सकते और वो भी इतना कि उसका अनुभव एक मोटी से क़िताब में भी न समा पाए ! ऐसी ही एक किताब है - Aimless in Banaras जो श्री बिश्वनाथ घोष द्वारा लिखी गयी है | निरूद्देश्य होकर बनारस के घाटों , गालियों पर ख़ाक छानते, लोगों से घुलते मिलते लेखक में बनारस का थोड़ा सा अंश आ जाता है और वह बनारसी महसूस करने लगता है | बनारस के लोगों में बात ही कुछ ऐसी है | ऐसा लेखक ने कई जगहों पर सिद्ध किया है |
दशाश्वमेध , गोदौलिया, अस्सी , मणिकर्णिका और राजघाट के बीच निरूद्देश्य घूमते हुए लेखक ने जिन लोगों से मुलाकात की उसका ज्योँ का त्यों वर्णन किया है | इस पुस्तक में तथ्य और मूल्य ( fact & value) एक दूसरे का सम्मान करते हुए एक दूसरे पर प्रभावी होने से बचे हैं | लेखक ने जैसा देखा है वैसा ही कहा है - कहीं भी जजमेंटल होने से बचा है |
बनारस के बारे में ऐसी तमाम घटनाओं और तथ्यों का जिक्र श्री घोष ने किया है जो एक आम बनारसी को भी पता नहीं |
मेरी लेखक से शिकायत है कि वो गंगा किनारे से थोड़ा और आगे बढ़ते तो उन्हें बनारस के और भी रूप दिखते जो इस शहर के अभिन्न अंग हैं | फिर भी लेखक ने जितना प्रस्तुत किया है वह न सिर्फ साहित्य की दृष्टि से बल्कि समाजशास्त्रीय दृष्टि से अप्रतिम है |

[Preetha · Rating 4 out of 5]

Who should Skip this book : If you are looking for a poetic version or romantic narration of Banares then skip this without a second thought .
Also- This is not a travel guide

What I liked : I loved the stories of the people, that the author collected walking across the length & breath of Banaras by speaking to them, meeting them and being part of their lives, even if for a few hours .
That gives this book its unputdownable aspect . The conversations the author has with these individuals, their responses, the noise, the smell , the commotion, the camaraderie - That alone gives some insight to Banaras , in it’s glory, guts & gore
Also, I appreciated that the author did not lopsidedly romanticise Banaras, something that laces almost every other travel article on Banaras that you read .
If you choose to read this book, hang in there, the first 20-30 pages.
I found myself asking if this was going to be some sort of a spiritual discourse kind of a book in the first 10-12% of the book . Glad I continued the journey . It wasn’t.
I don’t much care for the writing style so long as I can find something in the pages that lingers on , long after I have completed the book. In “Aimless in Banaras” I found that.
Overall, glad to have read it than not .

[Strophicus Strophifox · Rating 3 out of 5]

The book begins with the cremation of the author's mother at the Manikarnika Ghat and then moves through regular rounds of ghats, galis, and temples of the town. Multiple anecdotes and motifs would have been meaningless to me had I not visited Varanasi recently. To my delight, Varanasi Ghats exceeded my expectations, and I went to the local bookshop at Assi Ghat and picked some books. Interestingly, both Assi Ghat and Kashi Annapurna Book House make multiple appearances in the book.

Inspired by the poignant memory of his mother’s cremation at the illustrious Manikarnika Ghat, Ghosh reimmerses himself in this ancient locale, weaving together an intricate narrative of experiences and serendipitous meetings. Roaming through the labyrinthine ghats and winding galis, and afloat on the life-giving waters of the Ganga, the author delves deep into the pulsating culture, encountering an array of eclectic figures: sadhus, priests, and quintessential Banarasis alike.

This book is the intricate tapestry of human experience, but some of the chapters felt like a Lonely Planet guidebook. For me, the book comes alive when Bishwanath Ghosh calls upon Kashinath Singh to discuss Kashi ka Assi.
3.5/ 5.

[Tripti · Rating 5 out of 5]

Good writers know the importance of flow. Unfortunately, it’s easier said than done. It needs to have the right rhythm, tempo, and sound. I can say for sure that Bishwanath has excelled in this in his book "Aimless in Banaras". It's a book that he has written straight from his heart and it reflects in his writing. He is India's own Bill Bryson and he deserves to be showered with the same kind of love. This book is a rumination on life and death and also captures why the typical Banarasi is so carefree and fun-loving. They know, whatever you are, a beggar or a king it doesn't matter. Because as the saying goes,'For dust you are and unto dust, you shall return'. This broadens the perspective and makes one humble and wiser. So we see that most Banarasis, whether they are erudite, or a simple boatman, is so wise, chilled out and happy. Read the book for an understanding of life and also for a spiritual journey of Banaras.

[Kaushiki Jain · Rating 3 out of 5]

If you have that spiritual core in your unsettled mind pricking you time and again, you must give this book a shot. It is for all those readers and fellow travellers who are in search of solace and respite, beauty and delight. Fused with a Keleidoscopic view of beliefs, culture and spirituality, spanning from a boatman indulged in 'tell-a-tale' to author's personal experiences of meeting the very famous Kashinath, the book is a "must-read". The author has left no stone unturned in describing the majestic view of ghats and reflecting plight of people in construction of corridor that connects ancient Kadhi Vishwanath temple.

At times, one liners from his conversation with send goosebumps, there are few lessons to be learnt only to never be forgotten! The book does get slow in between, when the author seems to drag the conversations yet all in all it is a book with all the banarasi spices and love.

[Nichole · Rating 5 out of 5]

"It is impossible to capture the city its entirety in a single frame."
The same can be said with a single 150 page book. While it is almost impossible, this book really captures what it feels to be among the pakka Banarsis.

There are so many things in this book that felt so familiar and yet made me excited to step out and explore Banaras even further.

This book can be for those from Varanasi and those who have yet to visit. It talks about a wide variety of topics from the controversial corridor project around Kashi Vishwanath to Pappu's chai shop in Assi.

While I wish there was more expansion on the city being not just only important for Hindu pilgrims, there is only so much one can cover in an accessible and easy to read fashion.

So far this has been one of the best travel log books about Banaras that I have read yet! Give it a read, you won't regret it.

[Piyush Ranjan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Like the book, but I still desire for more.

I liked the book. Some episodes are great (writer's meeting with Kashi Nath Singh, Dr Gaya Singh, comprehensive coverage of Manikarnima and Banarasis in general) and are a revelation to a person like me who has been to Banaras umpteen times. I would like to sit with the author and share my experiences like suggesting a better thandai shop (the best one, infact). The book works immensely on that level, as a journalistic piece.
But something in me still feels dissatisfied and wants more. Perhaps because the book doesn't feel as personal as I would have liked (despite the fact that the writer attributes the coming-to-life of this book to his mother's demise).
I am also aware that I cannot thrust my likings or leanings over what the author desires to convey.
All in all, the material justifies the title: Aimless in Banaras.

[Sushmita Tripathy · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book starts with the essence of death. The writer goes to Banaras to carry out the last rites of his beloved mother. This book is about Banaras, its culture, its heritage and how this city never fails to surprise many. The attitude of people is playfully portrayed by the author. And that seriously excites me about this book. It speaks about Lord Vishwanath Temple, the Dom Raja, the numerous ghats of which Manikarnika and Dashashwamedha ghat are been detailed here. In this book, the author also expresses his view about the "Kashi ka Assi" written by the legendary writer Kashi Nath Singh. He loves this book so much that he happens to meet this writer and his conversation with this writer is a worthy read. It also highlights many other aspects of life in Banaras both good and bad. I have never been to Banaras yet this books helps me wander aimlessly in Banaras.

[Tushita Singh · Rating 3 out of 5]

It is important to know somethings before reading this book- this is not a travelogue, this book is not going to be your guide to banaras. This book only covers a part of the city and its culture (as claimed by the writer in the prologue.) Because of this reason, I find this book a little repetitive. I am a resident of Varanasi and i know for a fact that banaras has so much more to offer.
Having said that, this book does not dissappoint. The writer has captured the true essence of the city. His long conversation and descriptions of banarasis are as honest as it can be. His photographic details of places and people are really beautiful. The language is easy and engaging. My only disappointment is that although he comes back so many times, he is very confined in his approach of banaras.
If you are interested in ghats and local peopleof Varanasi, you will enjoy this book.

[Laxmi]

This book could be called a mini-biography of the place. The author begins the book with his mother's cremation, which he performed in Banaras, and so begins telling us how he wandered around the place then and later while letting us in on how the book took shape.
As the title suggests, it's quite an aimless book, but the narration is what makes one want to turn the pages. This book could act as a guide to people who wish to visit the place and want to have done their homework beforehand. Since the book is on Banaras, there is much religion and God and death in the pages, effortlessly accompanying each other.
Caution: The devout reading this book will need to have an open mind as the author is an atheist and while nothing seems hurtful (to me), each individual would have different beliefs.