When I first read, and thoroughly enjoyed, ‘Beyond the Devil’s Teeth,’ just after it was first published, I assumed it was a straightforward account of a long and arduous, surprise generating journey through Gondwanaland, the super-continent which existed when India, Africa and South America were joined. Eighteen years later, I am more aware of Tahir Shah’s extraordinary powers of observation; of the incredible imagination which allows him to create works which are finely balanced between fact and fiction; and of the humour which can bubble up into his writing.
The journey starts when he flies to India in search of antique treasure. A Mumbai tailor supplies him with shirts of sackcloth and boxer shorts of silk, and finds two assistants to help in the quest. One is a translator because the other is illiterate, cannot speak English and communicates through Indian sign language. The treasure is more elusive than expected, but the search for it brings him to places tourists rarely, if ever, see, in Mumbai, Dehli, and on the edge of the Thai desert. It allows him to meet people like pimps and arms dealers whom tourists tend to avoid; and he finds treasure in the shape of regal Rachana whom he succeeds in dating.
Before he leaves North Gondwanaland, his sister Saira entices him to Pakistan with promise of treasure. It is just after the Soviet-Afghan war, and the frontier town of Peshawar is full of reporters, aid-agency workers and heavily armed Mujahadin. The Russians have left Afghanistan, but warrior factions fight over the country. Saira brings Tahir to a hospital where child victims of the conflict are being treated.
The journey through Central Gondwanaland, starting in Senegal and ending in Kenya, is gruelling and hindered by bullying officials. Everywhere there is evidence of the brutality of totalitarian regimes, but the kindness of simple people touches his heart. One of the aims of the journey is to learn about African healing. A penfriend in Sierra Leone brings him to see his Babalawo but, when it becomes evident that the latter needs blood for his Borfima, Tahir’s travelling companion takes fright. Later in Manaus on the Amazon, following a chance encounter at a fish market, he has the opportunity to attend a Macumba initiation ritual. Macumba is a Brazilian cult originating in Nigeria.
Travelling through South America, from Venezuela to Patagonia, Tahir feels the force of nature as strongly as he did in Africa. There he climbed the Nyiragongo vulcano, went to see mountain gorillas in Rwanda and was conscious of the abundance of insect life. In Brazil he sees intact rainforest, the devastation caused by its removal, and the unwillingness of people to accept that our incursions are not without consequence.
‘Beyond the Devil’s Teeth’ is a book written at more than one level; but Tahir Shah is an immensely gifted storyteller and it can be enjoyed at any level. I don’t pretend to understand it at all its levels, and it leaves me with questions. Are the writer’s travelling companions real or imaginary? Do they represent aspects of himself which need to be integrated? Did the ill-equipped expedition to a glacier in Patagonia really take place? The inevitable next question is, ‘What is reality?’