Northbound: Four Seasons of Solitude on Te Araroa

by Naomi Arnold

Alone in the wilderness

Shortlisted for the General Nonfiction Award at the 2026 Ockham Book Awards


Award-winning journalist Naomi Arnold spends nearly nine months walking the length of New Zealand on Te Araroa, fulfilling a 20-year dream. On her own, she traverses mountains, rivers, cities and plains from summer to spring, walking on through days of thick mud, blazing sun and lightning storms, and into cold, starlit nights. Along the way she encounters colourful locals and travellers who delight and inspire her.

An upbeat, fascinating and inspiring memoir of solitude, love and friendship, and the joys and pains to be found in the wilderness.

Genres: Nonfiction, Travel, Memoir, Audiobook, Walking, Adventure, Biography

265 pages, Kindle Edition

First published April 1, 2025

About the author

Naomi Arnold is an award-winning journalist based in Nelson, New Zealand.

Reviews

[Jacqui · Rating 4 out of 5]

I actually really enjoyed this, with one caveat that dropped what was going to be a strong 4 down to maybe 3.5. And maybe my caveat is prudish and silly? But when the (married) author describes her big crush on a guy she walks with for a while, and how heartbroken she was when they separated, it made me feel sad even though she says her husband basically gave her a free pass to go for it if she wanted (?!?).

Ignoring that, an excellent story that definitely transported me right onto the trail!

[Lucy · Rating 5 out of 5]

In 2024 I was addicted to the show that was Naomi Arnold walking the last few 100 kms of Te Araroa through the brutal Raetea forest and eventually making it to the end point of Cape Reinga. It was like watching the best kind of emotional reality tv and I remember eagerly refreshing my Insta stories to see if she'd survived the night and I cried when she got to the end.

This book is the result of 9 months on the track, from Bluff to Reinga, the length of the country. Apart from being funny and tear jerking, emotional and heart warming, it's really well written, enticing readers into our stunning outdoors through her evocative and beautiful language. A must read for any lover of tramping and doing insane things.

[Emma Jarvis · Rating 5 out of 5]

As a Kiwi and someone who enjoys hiking, this book bought me a great deal of joy. From the beautiful descriptions of our stunning country, to the blunt, witty “she’ll be right” humour of the quirky individuals met along the journey, I found myself smiling, laughing and thoroughly absorbed with every chapter.

Highly recommend to anyone who calls this place home. A good reminder that kindness and beauty is everywhere if you know where to look.

[Shannon Ritter · Rating 5 out of 5]

Dammit I’m going to have to walk the TA now

[Isaac · Rating 5 out of 5]

Northbound was by turns savagely honest and frustratingly private, each chapter captivating as a section of Te Araroa coaxing me along the path (and keeping me up past hikers’ midnight).

If you’re reading Northbound to find out why people walk Te Araroa (or the PCT or AT), you’re barking up the wrong kauri. Asking ‘why the TA?’ should return the same answer as ‘Why do you drink so much wine on a Wednesday?’: ‘Fuck you for asking.’

Others’ complaining of Naomi’s frankness about her crush on ‘Stefan’ are prudish, immature and boring; welcome to the real world. Imagine the conversations she had with Doug both about the situation, and about publishing it, knowing he and their loved ones would sit with it. Regardless of their personal arrangements, she was honest that in this life, we often forge connections with people in unexpected, partly transgressive and still deeply human ways, and pretending they don’t exist doesn’t make them go away.

But Naomi also clearly hid some details from us, too, to protect herself, or Doug, or both, or because we don’t actually have ownership of them. I think the beauty of us not knowing the full story is that despite the fact she wrote a book about her experience, we’re not entitled to the entirety of it; she documented the parts that are well-rendered publicly, and kept the rest of her nine months of bittersweet agony to herself. If you want to know the rest of the story, go and walk it yourself. But actually, do go and walk it for yourself.

The bit I was disappointed about was how invested she made me in her toes at the end, and we never found out if they’re ok?!

Nga mihi nui, Namoi.

Ka kite.

[Sonya Cameron · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved this book. I walked Te Araroa South Island NOBO a year before Naomi so was cool to relive my own journey through her. She did it much tougher than me in barely meeting anyone along the way, and continuing her North Island journey over the winter. Was amazing to read of her 60 odd kilometre walks overnight and with minimal food by the end. Cool also to read how she felt changed by the trail.

[✧.*aleks·˚ ༘ · Rating 5 out of 5]

this is just awesome.
many people talk about wanting an "ordinary person" competitor in the olympics to guage just how good professional sports people are, and this is what i would count this memoir as.
Arnold provides an authentic and beautifully recounted description of her trip on the famous Te Araroa in an attempt to fufill a 20-year dream and i couldn't be more thankful to her for curating all those adventures into an insightful reflection.
she tackles harsh concepts like faithfulness, self doubt, pushing your body to absolute limits, and how love and friendship triumphs the deepest struggles.
as an asipiring journalist, it's unique for me to see how writing styles can be adapted from news to longform non-fiction through novels.
one day this will be me, but for now i look over Arnold's shoulder.

[John · Rating 4 out of 5]

Te Araroa on my list to hike confirmed. Loved the hike your own hike mantra and the tenacity to get it done. Didn't love the light suprise dose of polyamory that felt like a huge left turn, but bookends of harrowing/joyful hiking was a delight. Made me miss home and kiwiana. The description of the people and their stories made this.

[Simone B · Rating 4 out of 5]

If you're going to read a TA memoir, read this one! The audiobook (narrated by the author) is an enjoyable listen.

[Fran Whiteman · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved this book, listened to it during my walk’s & exercises. A well written book to inspire even us oldies!
I purchased her lonely planets (also side other authors) short walks in NZ.

Highly recommend

[Lauren · Rating 5 out of 5]

I would never walk Te Araroa but I very much enjoyed reading about someone who did.

[James · Rating 3 out of 5]

Would have liked more description of the nature rather than just “ow, my feet hurt and i’m lonely”

[Nicola · Rating 5 out of 5]

As someone who has walked the North Island leg of Te Araroa, I can't recommend this book enough. I listened to the audio book which was read brilliantly by Naomi herself. She has captured the essence of all the random interactions and happenings along the way, and I loved her descriptions of all of those mini interactions. I laughed out loud quite a few times, and grinned away while listening too. She's also nailed the way it feels to be a woman walking alone.

[Lisa Brandl · Rating 4 out of 5]

I liked this book because of the different setting. I know virtually nothing about the geography of NZ, except for what I saw in LOTR, so the descriptions were fascinating. It was also the downside to the story as well, because it was hard for me to follow exactly. I was listening as an audiobook, so it wasn’t like I could grab a map or look it up on my phone. I went with it though and enjoyed the story and her journey. This is at least my 10th book on a thru-hike, and as it compares to others I thought it was pretty good since I didn’t feel she was self-pitying, or did dumb things. She did a pretty amazing feat by doing this hike alone most of the time. I can’t imagine trudging through all that mud - I would have given up. I found the differences between NZ and USA thru-hiking culture fascinating.

[Sally Sutton · Rating 3 out of 5]

I was lent this book by a fellow book club member- I found it rather annoying. I would like to walk some of the tracks but would never attempt the whole challenge! The Te Araroa pathway traverses Cape Regina (top of North Island) to Bluff (bottom of South Island) so all topographic environments are encountered. The author seemed incredibly ill prepared and spent so much time feeling unwell, in pain and terrified - I just could not see why she persisted even though I love completing a challenge.

[Trina · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book was exactly what I needed to read at exactly the right time. It helped ease the ache of homesickness as I escaped into her life on the trail. Like a warm blanket to my nervous system. I had to intentionally limit how much I read in one sitting so that I could drag it out. So fun knowing so many of the places and being able to “see” some of the areas she describes. Got to the end, went back to the start, and read it all over again.

“The rain would cease, the world would turn into the morning sun and I would get up again.”

[David Bowles · Rating 5 out of 5]

The raw emotion and honesty of Naomi Arnold lifted this book way above the usual "travelogue".
Extremely well written as well, which made it impossible to put down!

[Gayle Parker · Rating 4 out of 5]

Perhaps 4.5

[Sasha · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was a great read - a raw, honest and very vulnerable account of self-discovery and the realities of walking Te Araroa

[Sarah · Rating 4 out of 5]

A really good read, thoroughly enjoyed reading through Naomi’s journey as she traversed the Te Araroa trail. While I don’t think I’d travel it myself, it has inspired me to explore and hike around more of our beautiful country. Would recommend!

[sheerin · Rating 4 out of 5]

i’d like to do more hikes if only men didn’t exist

[Jessica · Rating 2 out of 5]

2.5 star
Enjoying reading books on Te Araroa at the moment. Found parts of this book interesting and others less so, with some parts feeling rushed.
It fascinating the types of self discovery that happen on these walks. Such an awesome feat to have walked all that way.
Amazing effort from Naomi.

[Renee · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.75 stars

[Freya · Rating 5 out of 5]

This was so enjoyable and hard to put down! Naomi writes with such immediacy and her descriptions of nature and food were so good. Her interactions with people she met on trail were often hilarious but also touching and indicative of how cool our country can be. I’ve fantasised about walking Te Araroa and this only made me want to do it more!!

[Sarah Cleland · Rating 4 out of 5]

I began this book dreaming out when I could carve up time to walk Te Araroa, having just started my own walking club. I was left wondering if I had the spirit and stubbornness that drove Naomi to complete the trial and make it all the way to Cape Reinga. This is a true grit story of the pain and determination to complete what you have set out to do. I was in awe of the level of loneliness that was found on the trail and the ability to walk through it and come out the end as someone new, someone more connected, someone who found an underlying strength that all of must have hidden away - dormant until me push ourselves to the limit amongst the elements of nature. I highly recommend joining Naomi as she walks the length of New Zealand, you will learn more about our country, the nature of thru-hiking, and be inspired to push yourself towards that adventure that has been calling to you.

[Sho · Rating 2 out of 5]

I'm about half way through and i am stopping.

I simply cannot believe that Arnold was so unprepared for each leg of this hike, that she moaned and whined so much, and that she persisted in taking inappropriate food with her. It's not as if she started at the beginning and then pushed on to the end with no opportunity to adjust what she was doing.

Disappointing because it sounds like a fantastic route.

[Heloise Jacobs · Rating 1 out of 5]

DNF

[Ruthita · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wowsers! She did it hard! Not to say the Te Araroa (the thru hiking trail that covers the length of New Zealand) is in anyway easy, but boy!
I’ve read another book ‘Bewildered’ about a woman heading Southbound (from top of north island to bottom of south) known as SOBO’s, but this northbound (NOBO) experience was difficult.
It took nine months as she was determined to walk every inch, which meant pausing it through injury, waiting out storms and retuning back to do sections she missed.
South Island sounds do-able but the North island sounded like hell with all the road walking. Defo won’t waste my time doing that section! She did attack it over winter though and the trail was devoid of people!
Regardless I really did enjoy journeying along the trail with Naomi, and she has such an easeful writing style. And I am still inspired to keep hiking - I promise ahaha!

[Adam · Rating 5 out of 5]

A book so good I’m already looking forward to re-reading it

[Jess Cole · Rating 3 out of 5]

I’ve got to walk this goddamn trail