Un turista in Africa

by Evelyn Waugh

Partire senza una meta precisa è la filosofia di Evelyn Waugh, sempre in cerca di conferme ai pregiudizi che lo più un’opinione è indifendibile, più se ne farà paladino. Ne ha per tutti – bianchi, neri, gialli, musulmani, ebrei, francesi, americani –, ma gli affondi più feroci li riserva ai connazionali. Per riuscire divertente deve lamentarsi di qualcosa, e non appena si mette in viaggio la sorte comincia puntualmente a tramare contro di lui. Nei panni del vecchio pieno di acciacchi (ha poco più di cinquant’anni) e munito di queste credenziali, decide di svernare in un’Africa che sta ed eccolo, l’innocente all’estero, a Mombasa, Aden, Zanzibar, Dar-es-Salaam, nelle due Rhodesie. Quasi gli riesce di trovare la sua Città Perduta nelle rovine del Grande Zimbabwe, si imbatte in personaggi pittoreschi che degna sì e no di un mezzo sguardo, incappa in situazioni assurde che non lo scalfiscono, o in inverosimili avventure che come nessun altro sa porgere al lettore. Waugh è cresciuto, ma del giovane per cui viaggiare era un piacere conserva l’entusiasmo e l’ironia «Come uomini più fortunati osservano gli uccelli, io osservo gli uomini. Sono meno belli ma più vari».

Genres: Travel, Africa, Nonfiction, Kenya, Memoir, History, Zimbabwe

147 pages, Kindle Edition

First published January 1, 1960

About the author

Evelyn Waugh's father Arthur was a noted editor and publisher. His only sibling Alec also became a writer of note. In fact, his book “The Loom of Youth” (1917) a novel about his old boarding school Sherborne caused Evelyn to be expelled from there and placed at Lancing College. He said of his time there, “…the whole of English education when I was brought up was to produce prose writers; it was all we were taught, really.” He went on to Hertford College, Oxford, where he read History. When asked if he took up any sports there he quipped, “I drank for Hertford.”

In 1924 Waugh left Oxford without taking his degree. After inglorious stints as a school teacher (he was dismissed for trying to seduce a school matron and/or inebriation), an apprentice cabinet maker and journalist, he wrote and had published his first novel, “Decline and Fall” in 1928.

In 1928 he married Evelyn Gardiner. She proved unfaithful, and the marriage ended in divorce in 1930. Waugh would derive parts of “A Handful of Dust” from this unhappy time. His second marriage to Audrey Herbert lasted the rest of his life and begat seven children. It was during this time that he converted to Catholicism.

During the thirties Waugh produced one gem after another. From this decade come: “Vile Bodies” (1930), “Black Mischief” (1932), the incomparable “A Handful of Dust” (1934) and “Scoop” (1938). After the Second World War he published what is for many his masterpiece, “Brideshead Revisited,” in which his Catholicism took centre stage. “The Loved One” a scathing satire of the American death industry followed in 1947. After publishing his “Sword of Honour Trilogy” about his experiences in World War II - “Men at Arms” (1952), “Officers and Gentlemen” (1955), “Unconditional Surrender" (1961) - his career was seen to be on the wane. In fact, “Basil Seal Rides Again” (1963) - his last published novel - received little critical or commercial attention.

Evelyn Waugh, considered by many to be the greatest satirical novelist of his day, died on 10 April 1966 at the age of 62.

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Evelyn_W...

Reviews

[John · Rating 3 out of 5]

Waugh wrote this short travelogue which covers a trip from England to Africa between December 28th, 1958-April 10th 1959. The trip takes him back to places he has visited and he visits Egypt, Mombassa, Zanzibar, Kenya, Tanganyika, Rhodesia and finally to Cape-town where he sails home to Southampton.

Waugh’s witty perception of the changes and lifestyles of the Europeans living in Africa are insightful. Especially his analysis of the fall of Rhodes and the failure of developing a multiracial society. Instead they chose the South African apartheid model which led to the country’s economic collapse as well as ongoing corruption. But as he says on the final page ‘Cruelty and injustice are endemic everywhere’.

[Daren · Rating 3 out of 5]

Published in 1960, this book chronicles the travel of Evelyn Waugh through Eastern and Southern Africa for around two months. His last published travelogue, at the time Waugh was 55 years old.

There is a chapter on the idea, and a chapter on the journey - via Port Said & Aden, with arrival in Kenya. There is a mixture of the travel, Waughs experiences and people he meets and some historical context. If is readable and interesting without getting too in depth. There is a chapter spent in Kenya, then on to Tanganyika (now Tanzania). There are two chapters spent here, then on to 'The Rhodesias' (now Zambia and Zimbabwe), where a further two chapters are spent before a short chapter on the return to Britain.

Shorter than his earlier travelogues, this one is not recognised for displaying his wit or sarcasm to the degree of those earlier books. He shows no interest in the animals which usually play a large part of tourism in Africa, but has a fair stab at the issues of colonialism and corruption.

I have read two previous travelogues by this author - Remote People and Hot Countries, both of which were four stars. This one fell a little shorter, at 3 stars.

[Martin · Rating 3 out of 5]

Shorter by half compared to his other travelogues, Waugh's last travel book, while necessarily brisk, retains Waugh's charming wit, and remains a pleasant read.

It just doesn't stand up to his earlier forays into the genre (Labels, Remote People: A Report from Ethiopia & British Africa 1930-31, Ninety Two Days: A Journey In Guiana And Brazil, 1932, Waugh in Abyssinia), which I all heartily recommend.

[Chris · Rating 2 out of 5]

I had high hopes for this diary of Waugh's 1958 winter sojourn up & down the East coast of Africa. I loved his wit of the first two chapters but after that there was little of real interest for me. No highlighting of culture, a few forays to old Arab forts & mosques but with descriptions that wouldn't entice me to want to go visit. The last few chapters are a little more insightful about the changes going on in a few of the countries as colonialism gives way to the new Africa. Overall somewhat disappointing.

[Ruth · Rating 3 out of 5]

c1960: (10) FWFTB: post-colonial, Port Said, Aden, Kenya, Tanganyika, Rhodesia. A very quick read based on a diary kept during a two month foray to Africa. Going there on the cusp of change, gave Waugh a perspective that he, at least, thought was correct. Some funny incidences and caustic asides. I enjoyed it and would recommend to the normal crew. 'I think you are a bachelor. I should not care to bring up my children here.'/'Why not?' rather sharply scenting politics./'The accent.'

[LeBossu · Rating 4 out of 5]

Entre décrépitude, oisiveté, et déshérence, un voyage chaotique, où la terre indigène se révèle ne pas être plus barbare que le monde civilisé

[Santhi · Rating 3 out of 5]

A fusion of historical notes, social commentary and a travelogue with doses of humour. I did get lost in the passages of the endemic past, nonetheless I look forward to reading his other books

[Chiara Grima · Rating 4 out of 5]

Sin dalle prime pagine Waugh ha saputo farmi sorridere e così è riuscito ad incuriosirmi, catturare la mia attenzione sul suo viaggio. Senza rendermene conto ho assistito a lezioni di storia e di geografia pagina dopo pagina. Con lucidità e consapevolezza Waugh ha fatto si che chi leggesse capitolo per capitolo questa storia, si trasformasse in un turista in Africa, o meglio, in un curioso viaggiatore. Dalla Tanganica alle Rhodesie, attraversando luoghi ed incontrando personaggi tra loro diversi ma accumunati dal far parte della stessa umanità. Grazie Evelyn Waugh !

[Conor · Rating 2 out of 5]

More of an embellished diary than a travelogue. Keeps his usual style without being as funny or cutting as his other work. Hints at the history of areas without really giving any depth. Offers an interesting view of the colonial/native situation, without much further investigation. Ultimately, just a bit too thin to be worth any more than 2/5.

[Janet · Rating 3 out of 5]

This travelog has not aged well. I read it for Waugh's writing, but he seemed bored rather than inspired. He talks of countries that no longer exist, African people in terms that are considered racist today, and of course very nationalistic as a Brit. It can be read as a description of a long-lost place and era, but why.

[Scott Bradley · Rating 3 out of 5]

It's middling Waugh. There are flashes of what make him a writer to be read, but not enough to elevate this bit of travel writing above the assigned three stars. Waugh has written better travel literature.

[Carol Griffiths · Rating 3 out of 5]

This was an entertaining if obviously rather dated (1950s) little book about travels in East Africa. Waugh's writing is erudite and witty and it is fascinating to see images of Africa as it appeared to him at the time.

[Daniela Pérez · Rating 3 out of 5]

Mucho más placentero si estuviera en África xd.

[Brad Erickson · Rating 3 out of 5]

Mostly a diary like piece about his trip through east Africa in 1958. Many unfamiliar places and names that have faded into history, just before the cataclysmic upheavals that hit these countries.

[Paky · Rating 3 out of 5]

No respondió a las expectativas, aunque escrito hace ya muchos años, lo esperaba más entretenido y que aportara algo más de información de las formas de vida en la época en la zona.

[Alberto Biondi · Rating 2 out of 5]

Un diario di viaggio che racconta un mondo che non esiste più, pieno di contraddizioni, bellezza e diversità

[Booknblues · Rating 3 out of 5]

In 1958 Evelyn Waugh went on a trip to Africa during the winter months and then wrote A Tourist in Africa about his journey there to Kenya, Tanganyika, Rhodesia and South Africa. Waugh style is leisurely and sedate and always proper.
He is not interested in the animals as most tourist would be but in the people, mostly colonists and ancient architecture.

A Tourist in Africa provides insight into the Africa of colonial times in many ways they seem better functioning than modern Africa with its wars, genocide and decay roads and railways, but then again we wouldn't have this modern Africa without colonialism.

I admire his devotion to his English roots as he derides the colonials for abandoning their dignity for comfort:

"During the day the officials, who are the main white population, wear white shorts and open shirts, looking like grotesquely overgrown little boys who have not yet qualified for the first eleven at their private schools. Those who wish to add a touch of dandyism to this unimposing uniform sport monocles. I wonder how much the loss of European prestige in hot countries is connected with the craven preference for comfort over dignity."

It is interesting to read a perspective from the 1950's and perhaps a little jarring as well, but I will leave that to the reader to decide.

[Daniel · Rating 3 out of 5]

Waugh describes a two month trip through eastern Africa in 1958 at the beginning of the end of the colonial era. I can't recommend it to the casual reader looking for interesting tales about Africa, and even the ardent fan of Waugh may be disappointed as his wit and sarcasm are largely held in check. However those with an interest in the modern history of East Africa may find some interesting views on the transition to African independence from a somewhat enlightened colonial point of view. I have been reading it along with the recently published The Last Banana: Dancing with the Watu by Shelby Tucker which covers much of the same ground both geographically and sociologically (including interestingly the Livingstone Hotel in Moshi where Waugh encountered the Hollywood cast filming what must have been Hatari). While Tucker is certainly not the writer that Waugh was, his book focusing on the Greeks of northeast Tanzania is more interesting.

[Barbara Q · Rating 3 out of 5]

Actually, 3.5 stars. Or maybe 4. Interesting observations as the Evelyn Waugh travels through Eastern Africa in 1960 as the colonial era was ending with some wonderful writing...an elegant manipulation of words. I need to check out this well known author.

[Sutter Lee · Rating 2 out of 5]

Waugh's only reason for this trip was to go someplace warm for the winter. It was not his first trip to Africa. He admittedly has no interest in the flora or fauna. I read fairly faithfully, then skipped a lot of pages. His interests are history, local politics, architecture. Mostly about people he stayed with or visited, his own comforts, lodgings, transportation.

[Leonie · Rating 2 out of 5]

Might appreciate this book better if I had been to Africa??

[Rozanne · Rating 2 out of 5]

Very colonial.