The Lions of Winter, Survival and Sacrifice on Mount Washington

by Ty Gagne, T B R Walsh (illustrator)

On January 25, 1982, during a four-day search for two missing ice climbers on New Hampshire's Mt.t Washington in extreme weather conditions, Albert Dow, a member of the all-volunteer Mountain Rescue Service, became the first-and so far the only- member of a backcountry search and rescue team to be killed in the line of duty in the White Mountains. He was caught in an avalanche in terrain previously thought to present no risk. His teammate, Michael Hartrich, was injured in the accident.

In The Lions of Winter, author Ty Gagne describes the ordeal of the missing climbers, the selflessness and courage of the dedicated rescuers, the tragic circumstances surrounding the avalanche, and the heartbreak of the family, friends, and teammates of the fallen rescuer. Gagne also chronicles how this grueling event became a landmark of White Mountain history, ushering in a new era in the search and rescue community of New Hampshire.

In what is by far his longest and most in-depth book yet, The Lions of Winter, author Ty Gagne describes the ordeal of the missing climbers, the selflessness and courage of the dedicated rescuers, the tragic circumstances surrounding the avalanche, and the heartbreak of the family, friends, and teammates of the fallen rescuer.

Genres: Nonfiction, Outdoors

422 pages, Paperback

Published November 20, 2024

About the author

Ty Gagne is Chief Executive Officer of New Hampshire Public Risk Management Exchange (Primex), a public entity risk pool serving local governments in New Hampshire. He is a certified Wilderness First Responder and the author of the book Where You’ll Find Me: Risk, Decisions, and the Last Climb of Kate Matrosova. Two of his essays, “Emotional Rescue,” and “Weakness in Numbers: How a Hiking Companion can be Dangerous” were published in Appalachia journal.

In The Last Traverse; Tragedy and Resilience in the Winter Whites, Ty Gagne lays out the events that led up to an epic and legendary rescue attempt in severe and dangerous winter conditions in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. More than a cautionary tale, it is a tribute to all the volunteers and professionals who willingly put themselves in harm’s way to save lives.

Reviews

[Caroline · Rating 5 out of 5]

The longest and most in-depth Ty Gagne book so far, yet still a page turner! Before reading this book I was familiar with the story of MRS rescuer Albert Dow and his death’s impact on future rescues in the White Mountains, but this book filled in all the details and then some.

While I knew of Albert Dow, going into this book I knew very little of the story of the two men that the rescuers were searching for. While this trip to the Whites begins as a list of poor and dangerous decision making, it turned into a multi-day story of attempted survival that was much more of a page-turner than I expected. Just like the other two Ty Gagne books, even though I generally knew the ending(s), there reached a point where I just could not put the book down.

Once again Gagne did an excellent job of putting the spotlight on the rescuers who put their lives at risk, while weaving in history of the Whites and educating readers on the dangers of winter hiking in the mountains (and lots about avalanches.) This is definitely putting me in the right mindset as winter-hiking conditions in the Whites are starting for the season. I’m hoping to go to one of the author’s talks and get my copy signed next month.

[Heidi · Rating 5 out of 5]

As always, Ty is remarkable at explaining the choices and mistakes made by his subjects in a charitable and compassionate way. I think back on my own experiences in the mountains, which have thankfully been overwhelmingly positive, and I understand that the tiniest change in decision or condition could result in an entirely different story. The final third of this book is absolutely riveting, emotional, exciting, and devastating. These rescuers are so impressive and conduct their work with so much care. Ty, in turn, treats their stories, as well as those of the rescued and their loved ones, with such care. I care. You should care. Look for the helpers!

[Kit Oliver · Rating 5 out of 5]

Another amazing work by Ty Gagne. Riveting, heartbreaking, and inspiring all at once. A beautiful and devastating story, told perfectly.

[Laura · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.5 stars. I loved both of Ty Gagne’s other books about rescue attempts in the White Mountains, but this book could have used a better editor. It should have been reduced by at least fifty pages, as there were passages that were repetitive, and there were so many paragraphs that ended without periods that I started penciling them in. The book itself was also extremely heavy and difficult to hold as it was printed on glossy paper and clocked in at 400+ pages. It was still an exciting read, but it seemed more like a draft than a finished product. If you’re new to his works, I highly recommend checking out one of his other books.

[Diane Jackson · Rating 5 out of 5]

I couldn’t put this one down! Two young hikers get lost on Mt. Washington. The story follows the amazing Search and Rescue efforts in some of the worst winter weather on the planet.

[Lisa Eckstein · Rating 5 out of 5]

THE LIONS OF WINTER chronicles the true story of a 1982 search and rescue mission for lost climbers that resulted in a tragedy. Gagne begins by introducing Albert Dow III, a dedicated volunteer with New Hampshire's Mountain Rescue Service, and establishing that he will be killed in an avalanche while searching for two lost climbers. Then we meet the young but experienced climbers, Hugh Herr and Jeff Batzer, and follow them on their ice climbing expedition as Mount Washington's famously severe weather worsens and they lose their way. Over the course of their harrowing ordeal, it begins to seem increasingly impossible that Herr and Batzer will survive, except that we know Gagne interviewed them in the present. While their predicament grows more dire, a search is organized, and we also get hour-by-hour accounts of the teams of heroic rescuers who brave the extreme conditions. Among them is Dow, who we follow into the avalanche that claimed his life.

Gagne creates so much suspense in this story despite the known outcome, because the tension isn't over what will happen but how it will play out, and how it might have gone differently with other choices or circumstances. The account is full of careful detail about winter mountaineering, search and rescue, and other fields, and it's also full of emotion and compassion for everyone involved in the story. I read one of Gagne's earlier books, WHERE YOU'LL FIND ME, and found it gripping but sometimes overly technical. I think the pace and stakes of this book would appeal to a wider audience who enjoy reading about true life adventures and disasters.

[CJ · Rating 5 out of 5]

From the start, you know what happens to a member of the rescue team that battles outrageous conditions to search for 2 young climbers, but that doesn’t make this story any less riveting. The author, as in his previous books, does a masterful job of weaving together the many people involved, without judgement, no matter whether they are the rescuers or the rescued.
Being very familiar with many of the trails in this region brought this book even closer to home with great impact. It becomes so easy to imagine finding yourself in similar circumstances. And, ultimately, being better prepared and outfitted for the adventures we love.

[Molly Rhatigan · Rating 5 out of 5]

Another amazing book from Gagne! Really enjoyed the further perspective on how this event impacted not only the related families and larger New Hampshire community, but also the ideologies of Search and Rescue as well as the general perception of safety in the outdoors. Favorite book from Gagne so far (and they are all so good).

[Sue Allen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Ty Gagne does an excellent job from start to finish in telling the story of the rescue and tragedy of the events in January of 1982 on Mount Washington. Describing conditions on the mountain, the human spirit, the bond that rescuers and climbers have.
It’s a gripping story and was hard to put down.
Will recommend to all my nephews who are hikers, climbers and back country skiers.

[Ben · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great book and crazy story. Following the rescue and the survival story which are being told at the same time makes for a great read. Very inspiring and so cool to read about something g so serious that happened so close to home

[Emily Koester · Rating 5 out of 5]

Another powerful telling by Ty Gagne of misfortune in the White Mountains. It's tragic, but so informative and is a must read for anyone who ventures into the White Mountains.

[Benjamin · Rating 4 out of 5]

My brain is in full hiking mode after taking the winter off. Finally got into this on my second attempt. Endlessly readable. A must read for anyone hiking in the white mountains.

[Michaela · Rating 5 out of 5]

A beautifully written trifecta of Ty’s books. Couldn’t put it down but didn’t want it to end. An incredible and heavy story of life and loss in the White Mountains. Highly recommend along with his others.

[Jennie · Rating 5 out of 5]

Amazing. I grew up in NH and love the White Mountains, but the people in this book take that same passion to the stratosphere. Their climbing community and dedication to helping their fellow climbers is truly awe inspiring. Gagne’s ability to craft this tour de force book from dozens of sources about events that took place over 40 years ago is incredible. This is an unforgettable book!

[Emmett Walsh · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent read, a stark reminder of the unrelenting power of Mother Nature and the importance of working together.

[Donald Crane · Rating 5 out of 5]

For several nights while I was reading this book, I had trouble falling asleep and once I did fall asleep, my dreams were about ice climbing, getting lost in sub-zero weather with a reasonable expectation that the search and rescue team wasn’t looking anywhere near your location, and getting buried alive in an avalanche.

Ty Gagne has a unique ability to ferret out the details of White Mountains tragedies and present them in a spellbinding and gripping way that creates continuous tension while reading. The first sentence of the introduction gives away the ending, and yet - with that knowledge - the reader is nevertheless captivated by the unfolding story.

This book has moments of uplift as well as abject despair, and the reader feels all of it. I couldn’t help but feel a sense of injustice that the lost ice climbers survive, miraculously, while one of the searchers is killed in an avalanche searching for them. Yet both lost climbers/hikers go on to inspirational lifetime commitments to doing good for others, in their own ways, as a way of honoring the searcher who was killed.

I can’t recommend the book enough; it was truly memorable, similar toGagne’s previous two books (reviewed earlier among my Read Books). And I’m glad to be back sleeping again.

[Christopher Jackson · Rating 5 out of 5]

A detailed true story of climbers venturing into the White Mountains and underestimate the potential threats of the area.

[Ellen Kolb · Rating 4 out of 5]

A story of hikers, rescuers, and all that can go wrong on Mount Washington in winter is skillfully told by Ty Gagne, who has chronicled other White Mountain misadventures in two previous books. The Lions of Winter details a four-day search and rescue mission on the mountain in 1982 that took the life of SAR volunteer Albert Dow. Gagne pays well-deserved tribute to Dow, and he offers a detailed account of the extensive network of volunteers who went into action during the incident.

In the hands of a lesser writer, the two hikers whose situation led to the rescue mission might be cast as fools or villains. Gagne doesn't settle for such characterizations. Instead, as he writes about the hikers' choices before and after they got lost, he conveys how any human being - even an experienced hiker - can get into a grievous predicament.

At four-hundred-plus pages, Gagne's reporting goes into minute details that don't always move the story along crisply. What's evident even in the minutiae is his respect for the mountain itself and for the people who put their lives on the line to come to the aid of hikers in distress.

[Tom · Rating 4 out of 5]

I liked this book - this one Is about two really talented young climbers - they’ve done all sorts of crazy technical climbs, glaciers out west etc and they go ice climbing a route in Huntington ravine and when they get to the top they decide to go tag the summit. The weather is bad and with in a few minutes they are hopelessly turned around . They wind up in great gulf without the gear they need and for such talented guys they don’t even have a map , no food, tech - at one point they find a trail sign for Madison gulf trail but didn’t know the way to go (they went the wrong way). Anyway they almost die. Rescued after some Random people happen upon them after several days. Meanwhile a big rescue operation was mounted over in Huntington and Tuckermab and a rescuer is killed in avalanche. The book gives a really interesting blow by blow of how the rescue unfolded and what the two climbers were up to. Really interesting but almost too much detail
My favorite Gagne book remains Last Traverse because that’s the one that describes a situation I could see myself in

[Nicholas Belanger · Rating 4 out of 5]

“The Lions of Winter” by Ty Gagne is a gripping and deeply resonant read, especially for those of us who call New England home, and spend a good amount of time in the White Mountains. The terrain, the unpredictability of the weather, and the sobering reality of how quickly things can go wrong in the backcountry are all captured with chilling precision.

The authors attention to detail is exceptional, and his ability to weave first-hand accounts with thoughtful analysis makes the narrative not just compelling, but profoundly human. You can feel the stakes and weight in every decision in the unforgiving conditions.

While the pacing lags just slightly in a few spots, the overall storytelling is tight and evocative. It’s a powerful reminder of nature’s beauty and brutality, and a must-read for anyone familiar with the region or curious about the quiet heroism and hard truths behind search and rescue in the mountains.

Highly recommended for fellow New Englanders and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

[Christine · Rating 5 out of 5]

A masterpiece. I've been a fan of Ty Gagne's since reading Where You'll Find Me, and couldn't wait to read this one. The book is a meticulously researched account of the search for two missing hikers on NH's Mt Washington, and the rescuers searching for them in dangerous winter conditions. Honestly, I felt like I was on the mountain with them. The descriptions of the wind, blowing snow and subzero temps were so real that I shivered while reading. Kudos to Ty Gagne for this incredible (true) story, and kudos to those who risk their lives to rescue hikers and climbers in trouble.

READ THIS BOOK!!!

[Jeff Morris · Rating 5 out of 5]

For someone who lives 30 minutes from the White Mountains of NH and has hiked many of the trails there, this was a very emotional read. I can see the Whites from my home. I read the NH Fish and Game Law Enforcement reports about Search and Rescue (SAR) missions during the winter and the amazing people who do everything humanly possible to save a fellow, but unknow hiker in distress. The White mountains are certainly not the tallest mountains in the country, but they can be beautiful and brutal all in the same day. This book takes the reader as close as possible to a SAR experience without actually being on the receiving end of a rescue or at times, a recovery.

[Nancy Rose · Rating 5 out of 5]

Could not put this down, and it's a physically heavy book! (many graphics, images)
Ty is masterful at weaving the elements of setting and context with events in such a way that, even knowing at the outset what happened, I HAD to get all the details and keep going.

I especially appreciate how even-handed he is with sharing objective information so it's up to the reader to decide how they feel about decisions and outcomes. In a world of intense and constant media bias, this is a refreshing example of how you can document something fully, with sensitivity, and compassionately, without it seeming weak.

Ty is a NH treasure that the world should know about.

[Rick Martin · Rating 4 out of 5]

The author follows his formula for presenting the sequence of events related to the search and rescue for hikers or climbers in NH White Mountains which he used in his first two books. If you are interested in the details of how a search in rescue in the White Mountains under sub-artic conditions then this is the book for you. Due to events that occurred this has a heavier emotional weight then the other two books. That is handled very well.
Remember the two most important words for hiking and climbing safely - Turn Around!

[Susan · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book was definitely a page turner. Having grown up in New England, hiked and camped in the White Mountains there was so much that was familiar to me. The tenacity of the two lost ice climbers was amazing as well as the volunteer rescue crews! Mount Washington is always a force to be reckoned with during any season, but winter is unbelievable! I loved the regular weather updates from the summit and the photos.
This book is hard evidence that you should NEVER tackle this mountain without training and ALWAYS let people know your hiking, climbing plans.

[Kathryn Henderson · Rating 5 out of 5]

I literally did not put this one down except to sleep. Meticulous in its hour-by-hour reconstruction of a multi-day rescue effort in 1982, the pace nonetheless simulates the adrenaline rush of alpine climbing in full conditions. The heroism, sacrifice, despair, hope, and resolve are unmatched. Someone must have been cutting onions nearby as I devoured the final third of the book. And the more familiar you are with the White Mountains of New Hampshire, the more readily this book hits home. A masterpiece of East Coast mountaineering.

[MaryAnne · Rating 4 out of 5]

A very intense story about the rescue of two young climbers lost on Mt. Washington in January 1982. The mission resulted in the death of one of the rescuers in an avalanche.

The story was told in excruciating detail. The author covered every aspect of the rescue efforts and the ordeal that Jeff and Hugh faced all in great detail. It was fascinating and heartbreaking.

It was personally very interesting to me because of all my hiking experience in the White Mountains and my knowledge of the trails on Mt. Washington.

[Shawn · Rating 4 out of 5]

Another great read from Ty Gagne, a thrilling and exhaustively researched account of tragedy and heroism in the White Mountains. Given the incident occurred more than 40 years ago, the amount of effort that must have gone into research and interviews is incredible and really brings the story to life.

As other commenters have mentioned, I did find the editing / proofreading errors to be a bit distracting and slightly detracted from my enjoyment of the book.

[Diane · Rating 5 out of 5]

I am very surprised at how much I enjoyed this book. I am not a mountain climber, but I am aware of the mystique of this mountain, and after reading this book, I understand where this mystique came from. At times there was a bit more information than I needed, but the story was so compelling that it read like a suspense novel. I wasn't prepared to be so emotionally involved with the people written about, but it's part of what makes this book so special.

[Jim Oehler · Rating 3 out of 5]

I'd give it a 3.5 if possible. Amazingly detailed account of the rescue of two young climbers on Mount Washington, NH during the winter of 1982. Perhaps too detailed. The almost hourly updates of what is occurring is a bit of a slog to get through but worth the read to learn about the selflessness of the rescuers, what happened to the climbers, and how this event continues to influence rescue processes and training to this day.