I knew I would like this cookbook when I saw the artichoke hearts on the cover, and indeed, this cookbook delivers on its promises of heartfelt recipes that are inventive and never boring while still being very easy to make on a weeknight. And the design of the book is gorgeous, with sunrise and sunset endpapers, lots of watercolor paintings to introduce each section, and eclectic groupings like Three Savory Snacks and A Brothy Intermission, with a whole section dedicated to the author’s Italian grandmother’s recipes. And indeed, this book is like flipping through a cobbled together, nostalgic family recipe Rolodex, calling back to old favorites like a French silk pie but adding twists (this version has earl grey in it!). I can’t wait to cherish this cookbook for years.
Little Gem Salad with White Bean Purée - this salad is so simple and thank God it is, because my appetite for it is limitless. It’s all because of the anchovies - they give the bean purée the umami flavor that means you have to have another scoop and another swipe with your crisp romaine lettuce. And that’s another piece of perfection - the juxtaposition of the fresh and light crunch of greens with the comparatively thick and heavy bean paste. And the more fresh herbs you heap on, the better. This has all the flavors of a Caesar salad, but amps them up to the next level, and skips the often stale croutons.
Earl Grey French Silk Pie - the author always makes this for her husband’s birthday, and after making it for this Thanksgiving I want it for my birthday too! She correctly eschews the traditional flaky crust, which is completely wrong for this kind of pie (a soapbox I will NEVER get off of), and calls for a chocolate graham cracker crust instead. The filling is a more nuanced, less sweet version of the classic, with just a tinge of the aromatic bergamot that marks earl grey. I thought perfection could not be improved, but I was thankfully wrong.
Chicken Fat Mashed Potatoes - decadence at its best. After rendering the fat of four chicken thigh skins, you use it to make the creamiest, savoriest mashies you’ve ever had. Definitely something to save for a special occasion because of its richness.
The one sour note here is that the delectable chicken fat makes a vegetarian dish omnivorous, but on the other hand, the recipe should probably be doubled as it makes quite a small quantity, so perhaps this makes it so there is enough to go round for the meat-eaters.
Tina’s chicken bake - we made this with the chicken thighs left over from the Chicken Fat Mashed Potatoes, and despite some initial doubts, each aspect came together beautifully, even the green herb sauce that seemed out of place. Catalano’s grasp of texture, taste, and balance between them is unparalleled. And who would have realized there was such a simple way to ensure the vegetables would be basted in the fat of chicken thighs? Genius to simply plop the chicken on top of the veggies to roast. This also came together in 20 minutes and then baked for an hour, so a really easy recipe for busy people.
My friend recommended me this cookbook as an alternative to THE WISHBONE KITCHEN, which has been making the rounds of tiktok and the bestseller list despite its corporate, sterile vibes (and it didn’t appear on a single best of year list which makes me feel vindicated). BY HEART has the skill, the ingenuity, the love of family and cooking and good food that bleeds through on every page. I can’t wait to try the Blueberry Pretzel Galette and homemade goat cheese ravioli and more!