Bread and War: A Ukrainian Story of Food, Bravery and Hope

by Felicity Spector

'Stories of kindness, bravery and love shine from these pages' Nigel Slater

'A brave, necessary account of resilience and skill and the power of bread and connection' Olia Hercules

How do you source, cook and take joy in food in the midst of war and loss?

Food is a weapon, a lifeline, a means of survival. Ukrainian food is also a powerful symbol of national identity and independence. This is a journey through mine-ridden, wrecked villages, repeatedly bombed cities, family kitchens and precarious small bakeries and cafes. Along the way news journalist and food writer Felicity Spector shares meals with soldiers, travels supply lines with volunteers and is fed incredible food by army cooks, fine bakers and home-cooking heroes.

The extraordinary stories of just some of those people – refugees and restaurateurs – trying to rebuild lives and kitchens after years of bombing, shows a very Ukrainian determination to provide good food for a besieged people.

PRAISE FOR BREAD AND WAR

'This is a truly inspiring book about eating, cooking, and growing food at a time of war. Full of extraordinary human stories, both of loss and fortitude, in the midst of Russia’s invasion' Jon Snow

'A wonderful book. Felicity Spector writes vividly about the role played by food in wartime Ukraine, and the brave and enterprising volunteers who bake and cook it. She is an intrepid traveller and reporter. At a time when Russia is seeking to wipe out Ukraine's culture – including its cuisine – Spector celebrates the meals that keep Ukrainian soldiers fed, and the nation's spirit alive' Luke Harding, author of  Russia's Bloody War and Ukraine's Fight for Survival, shortlisted for the Orwell Prize and Peterson Literary Prize

'Bread and War nourishes the soul like a slice of freshly baked Ukrainian sourdough. Felicity Spector’s compelling account of her mission to bring bread to the soldiers and villagers on the desolate frontline in mobile bakeries is gently heroic and humane. Reading it is like sharing a comforting meal with strangers in times of distress. It offers glimpses of humour and humanity in a landscape scarred by ferocious inhumanity. It is all the more poignant for taking place in the country that had been the world’s breadbasket until the war. Felicity must be a one a renowned food critic who has the courage to swap the ethereal detachment of writing about food for the earthy engagement of delivering it to one of the most dangerous places on earth' Matt Frei, news editor and presenter, Channel 4 News

'Food is national security. Food is economy. It is employment, energy, history. Food is everything' Chef José Andrés, Founder of World Central Kitchen

251 pages, Kindle Edition

Published May 1, 2025

Reviews

[Andrii Rudenko · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is not exactly for me... and at the same time it truly is :-) It would be way more useful and interesting for people who are outside Ukraine, but curious enough to learn something about its wonderful food and amazing people. It is not dark, though it tells about hard times; the book sparks hope, joy, and reflects both Ukrainians' and author's optimism.

[Dmitry · Rating 2 out of 5]

(The English review is placed beneath the Russian one)

Довольно странный выбор темы. Впрочем, возможно такая тема была выбрана автором, чтобы рассказать истории о тех людях, кто сегодня занят производством и распространением хлеба в Украине. Как можно предположить речь идёт скорее не о коммерческом производстве и распространении хлеба, а гуманитарном, а так же о доставке продуктов питания в разные части украинской армии. Однако последний момент в книге показан достаточно странно, учитывая, что речь идёт не о крупных корпорациях и не о государственных структурах занятых поставкой продовольствия в армию, а о малом бизнесе, т.е. бизнесе, где работает не больше 5-10 человек. Поэтому когда слышишь такие истории, то возникает вопрос о том, как такой вот малый бизнес снабжает украинскую армию, почему они это делают? Одно дело – добровольческие батальоны, а совсем другое – профессиональная армия. К примеру, сможем ли мы представить, что кто-то в США, точнее некий малый бизнес, занимается поставкой продовольствия в армию? Например, могла бы такая ситуация происходить во время вьетнамской или иракской военной кампании? Я не эксперт в этом вопросе, но что-то мне подсказывает, что такого не было и быть не могло, т.к. все поставки в армию осуществляются по строго стандартизированной процедуре и поэтому не могут включать никакого участия коммерческого малого бизнеса даже на добровольной основе. Вот и получается, что книга, невольно, создала ощущение, что либо сегодня на украинском фронте сражаются (всё ещё продолжают сражаться) добровольческие батальоны, которые не имеют прямых продовольственных поставок от государства либо что ситуация настолько хаотичная, что помогать государственным структурам в вопросе продовольственных поставок в украинскую армию, на линию фронта, обязали даже коммерческий малый бизнес. В общем, при любом раскладе ситуация не очень хорошая.

И ещё. Почему именно хлеб (чаще всего в книге используется слово паляница)? Если с чем и ассоциируется Украина, то это с салом. Забавно, кстати, но про сало в книге ни слова, хотя именно этот продукт можно назвать национальным. Помнится, когда я отдыхал летом в Украине в 90-ых годах, нам на завтрак принесли это самое сало. И вот, стоит невыносимая жара, а на завтрак или обед, это самое сало, которое не просто плавилось на солнце, но и было с какой-то «щетиной». Как рассказывают родители, я сразу сказал, что я это есть не буду, да и родители не особо рвались пробовать. В итоге мы сказали, что мы есть не будем и ушли. Как рассказывают родители, уходя, нам сказали в след: «Москали приехали, сало есть не хотят». Сегодня, как и тогда, этот продукт не входит в мой рацион.

Вообще, странная получилась книга, хотя один плюс всё же в ней есть: отсутствие ура-патриотической украинской риторики. Что касается истории людей, то они какие-то идеалистические…


Quite a strange choice of topic. However, perhaps such a theme was chosen by the author to tell stories about those people who today are engaged in the production and distribution of bread in Ukraine. As we can assume, it is not about commercial production and distribution of bread, but rather humanitarian, as well as the delivery of food to different parts of the Ukrainian army. However, the last point in the book is shown rather strangely, given that we are not talking about large corporations or state structures engaged in supplying food to the army, but small businesses, i.e., businesses that employ no more than 5-10 people. Therefore, when you hear such stories, the question arises as to how such small businesses supply the Ukrainian army and why they do it. One thing is volunteer battalions, and quite another is a professional army. For example, can we imagine someone in the United States, or rather a small business, supplying food to the army? For example, could such a situation have occurred during the Vietnam or Iraqi military campaigns? I am not an expert in this matter, but something tells me that this has not happened and could not happen, since all supplies to the army are carried out according to a strictly standardized procedure and therefore cannot include any participation of commercial small businesses, even if it is on a voluntary basis. So it turns out that the book, unwittingly, created a feeling that either today on the Ukrainian front are fighting (still fighting) volunteer battalions that do not have direct food supplies from the state or that the situation is so chaotic that even commercial small businesses are obliged to help the state structures in the issue of food supplies to the Ukrainian army, on the front line. In general, in any case, the situation is not very good.

And another thing. Why bread (the word palyanitsa is used most often in the book)? If Ukraine is associated with anything, it is lard. It is funny, by the way, but there is not a word about lard in the book, although this product can be called national. I remember when I had a summer vacation in Ukraine in the 90s, we had this very lard for breakfast. So, it is unbearably hot, and for breakfast or lunch, this very lard, which not only melted in the sun, but also had some “bristles”. As my parents say, I immediately said that I would not eat it, and my parents were not particularly eager to try it. In the end, we said we wouldn't eat it and left. According to my parents, when we left, they said to us: “The Moscals have arrived, they don't want to eat lard.” Today, as then, this product is not part of my diet.

In general, the book turned out to be strange, although there is one plus: the absence of ura-patriotic Ukrainian rhetoric. As for the history of people, they are some idealistic.....

[boom saloon · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book just came out this week, and the pictures in it are of food. But the key here is the text, which is about Spector’s encounters with the brave people who use food to support others – whether that is by feeding refugees or civilians without adequate food supplies in times of war, feeding troops or providing excellent food on trains. One of the chapters is about supplying food to civilians who are effectively cut off on the front line in the village of Antonivka – which just happens to be our own grandmother’s village. Spector organised food deliveries there, perhaps to grandma or, at least, to her neighbours. The story of the bravery of the cooks and those who risk their lives to deliver the food is not a war story that is told often, but it deserves to be – especially in such an engaging way.

https://www.boomsaloon.com/simon-crof...

[Annette Morris · Rating 4 out of 5]

A surprisingly enjoyable, heartwarming and optimistic book that gives a fascinating insight into everyday life in a war zone. It left me feeling hopeful and with a strong urge to bake - luckily there are recipes!
It's basically a collection of short stories about individuals and organisations, almost all volunteers,who are baking and delivering bread and other goodies to those who need it most - military as well as civilian - in Ukraine as the war with Russia rages on.

[Polly Johnsen · Rating 3 out of 5]

Powerful material but not a very compelling read, unfortunately.