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Train your dog: A guide to dog training devices and commands
Train your dog! is a straightforward guide to getting you started and well on the way to training your faithful canine friend. Dogs are pack animals and enjoy the prospect of new challenges which test them both mentally and physically so they enjoy the experience. More importantly, though, training your dog is a way of stopping them from becoming a nuisance, establishing yourself as pack leader (essential), laying down guidelines which protect you, your family, your guests and your property as well as potentially saving your dog's life one day.
In this book, we look at all the principal dog training devices - crates, collars, leashes, carrots and sticks etc. You will learn the main commands, how to teach them and how easy it is to confuse and upset your dog's balance merely through sloppy use of these instructions.
You'll find 'Train your dog!' written in a friendly and approachable style with plenty of summarising 'Important Do!' and 'Important Don't!' instructions which reinforce the theory just discussed.
The book is illustrated in full colour.
If you have your own suggestions for dog training tips, we'd be pleased to hear them. Use the contact form on the Any Subject Books website.
Sample text
Once you're on the walk, it is perfectly normal (albeit unacceptable) for young dogs to get overexcited. After all, this is their big moment, the world's full of strange sounds, smells, possibilities for friendships, showing off etc. They just want to make the most of it - can you blame them?
That said, being dragged from one scenting spot to another is far from enjoyable for the dog owner - it being both a physical strain and the height of embarrassment. Resisting with a greater force only risks damaging the dog's neck as it retaliates with everything it's got. It's also dangerous for the owner who could easily be pulled over, strain a muscle or, possibly, just lose the dog altogether.
If the dog is not to benefit from its behavior (which, as we have already agreed, it mustn't) then the only solution is to prevent the situation from occurring in the first place. This is what I referred to earlier about sensing the dog's mood and potential action through the leash. Acquiring this skill is vital if you are to have enjoyable walks together.
There are two standard ways of dealing with a pulling, over-excited dog. Which one you choose will depend upon the size and strength of both your pet and yourself.
If the balance is clearly in your favor, then the obvious thing to do when your dog tries to race away, is to just clamp down and not budge. Once the frustration and irritation has gone from your dog and it has realized that neither of you are budging, it will quickly calm down. Put the dog into a sitting or lying down position (and always do this) to further reinforce the idea that being calm and submissive is the best way to get what they want.
The other option is to immediately turn through 180 degrees whenever you sense your dog is getting obsessed with something. This could be a static object such as a lighting column, tree or grassy verge or a moving object such as another dog, human or vehicle. This technique also assists with calming dogs that are being aggressive.
If you can, pick up on when your dog starts to get tense and then immediately take it out of the 'danger zone' by doing a swift volte-face. As soon as it has calmed down, you can revert to your original route. If the dog tenses again, repeat and do so until eventually the dog gives up on the obsession. You can also include talking to it, twitching the lead (but not pulling) or by proffering a treat.
In this book, we look at all the principal dog training devices - crates, collars, leashes, carrots and sticks etc. You will learn the main commands, how to teach them and how easy it is to confuse and upset your dog's balance merely through sloppy use of these instructions.
You'll find 'Train your dog!' written in a friendly and approachable style with plenty of summarising 'Important Do!' and 'Important Don't!' instructions which reinforce the theory just discussed.
The book is illustrated in full colour.
If you have your own suggestions for dog training tips, we'd be pleased to hear them. Use the contact form on the Any Subject Books website.
Sample text
Once you're on the walk, it is perfectly normal (albeit unacceptable) for young dogs to get overexcited. After all, this is their big moment, the world's full of strange sounds, smells, possibilities for friendships, showing off etc. They just want to make the most of it - can you blame them?
That said, being dragged from one scenting spot to another is far from enjoyable for the dog owner - it being both a physical strain and the height of embarrassment. Resisting with a greater force only risks damaging the dog's neck as it retaliates with everything it's got. It's also dangerous for the owner who could easily be pulled over, strain a muscle or, possibly, just lose the dog altogether.
If the dog is not to benefit from its behavior (which, as we have already agreed, it mustn't) then the only solution is to prevent the situation from occurring in the first place. This is what I referred to earlier about sensing the dog's mood and potential action through the leash. Acquiring this skill is vital if you are to have enjoyable walks together.
There are two standard ways of dealing with a pulling, over-excited dog. Which one you choose will depend upon the size and strength of both your pet and yourself.
If the balance is clearly in your favor, then the obvious thing to do when your dog tries to race away, is to just clamp down and not budge. Once the frustration and irritation has gone from your dog and it has realized that neither of you are budging, it will quickly calm down. Put the dog into a sitting or lying down position (and always do this) to further reinforce the idea that being calm and submissive is the best way to get what they want.
The other option is to immediately turn through 180 degrees whenever you sense your dog is getting obsessed with something. This could be a static object such as a lighting column, tree or grassy verge or a moving object such as another dog, human or vehicle. This technique also assists with calming dogs that are being aggressive.
If you can, pick up on when your dog starts to get tense and then immediately take it out of the 'danger zone' by doing a swift volte-face. As soon as it has calmed down, you can revert to your original route. If the dog tenses again, repeat and do so until eventually the dog gives up on the obsession. You can also include talking to it, twitching the lead (but not pulling) or by proffering a treat.
49 pages, Kindle Edition
First published May 6, 2012
1 person is currently reading
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