Jak być renesansową kobietą. Nieopowiedziana historia piękna i kobiecej kreatywności

by Jill Burke, Maria Borzobohata-Sawicka (Translator)

Co opowiedziałyby nam o swoich czasach kobiety z obrazów Botticellego, Michała Anioła i Tycjana?
Czym Lukrecja Borgia wymawiała się od nudnych przyjęć i do czego Katarzyna Sforza używała kremów z rtęcią?

Jill Burke, zafascynowana poradnikiem modowym wydanym w Wenecji w 1562 roku, wyruszyła śladami renesansowego "przemysłu beauty" – od tętniących życiem targowisk do pałaców elit, gdzie uroda była potężną bronią i mogła decydować o losach królestw. Autorka odkrywa też historie kurtyzan, artystek i pisarek, dla których dbanie o ciało było przestrzenią eksperymentów, wolnej ekspresji i buntu.

XVI-wieczne przepisy na upiększające mikstury, destylaty i ziołowe ekstrakty świadczą o imponującej wiedzy ówczesnych chemiczek i botaniczek – wykorzystywanej również do tworzenia receptur kosmetyków, które niosły śmierć...

Kanony piękna, sztuka i władza – z tej intrygującej mieszanki powstała pełna kontrastów opowieść o renesansowych kobietach, ich urodzie, sile i kreatywności.

Genres: Nonfiction, History, Feminism, Art, Historical, Womens, Renaissance

352 pages, Hardcover

First published August 3, 2023

Reviews

[Bludniq Sin · Rating 4 out of 5]

What a great book to read in leisure! The amount of female rage you will get out of this is enough to consider poisoning a male relative or boyfriend for sure. Also the recipes!!!!! Sisterhood really is committing manslaughter together.
Surprising how many misogynistic notions have root in the Renaissance and the audacity of men to have not only an opinion but to dictate female beauty standards and character. The parallels with the present are terrifying.
End the patriarchy!

[Sembray · Rating 4 out of 5]

I will read anything ever written about the Italian Renaissance, but this intriguing book definitely offers a fresh and intriguing spin on one of my favourite topics. Burke utilises sources from art and literature, many of which will be familiar to Renaissance fanatics such as this reviewer, to illustrate changing attitudes towards and treatment of women. Many of the issues covered, such as the male gaze and whether beauty culture empowers or oppresses women, are still highly topical today, and the well-researched and incisively written volume has definitely caused me to approach many of my most beloved works of art from a new angle.

[Danesda · Rating 4 out of 5]

Tremenda obra de arte sobre arte y su relación con la mujer, se me hace un libro fundamental, un estudio muy bien realizado que me enseño muchisimas cosas y me inspiro.

Definitivamente toda una obra de arte.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DGIypNvuOaA/

[Mikala Hardie · Rating 4 out of 5]

4.5, I loved the chapter about renaissance women murdering their husbands by putting their poisonous makeup in their husbands food. As they should!

[Nikoletta (nikisjournal) · Rating 4 out of 5]

Bardzo przyjemna pozycja, otwierająca oczy na wiele aspektów. Nie wiedziałam nawet, że są badaczki zainteresowane aż taką niszą, super sprawa. 3.5

[Weronika · Rating 4 out of 5]

Świetna!

[Amanda · Rating 2 out of 5]

2.5.
Tiene datos interesantes sobre la época, todos ellos muy curiosos. Eso sí, confunde sexo con género y blanquea la prostitución diciendo "trabajadoras sexuales" todo el tiempo. Además, introduce, desde una concepción presentista de la historia, conceptos modernos como "transgenerismo" para referirse a personas y hechos del siglo XV y XVI estropeando todo.

[Marika_reads · Rating 4 out of 5]

Początek XV wieku, Krystyna de Pizan odnosząc się do komentarzy obwiniających ofiarę za to, że ta doświadczyła przemocy sek$ualnej pisała - „powodem napaści na Lukrecję, słynącą z cnoty Rzymiankę, która w następstwie gwa%tu zadźgała się nożem, nie była jej uroda, a niegodziwe myśli gwa%ciciela”. Sama się prosiła! Brzmi znajomo, prawda?

Z tego cytatu bije dość poważny i negatywny vibe, ale ta książka całościowo nie ma tak pejoratywnego wydźwięku, jest tutaj pełno ciekawostek i cała masa zabawnych fragmentów.
Podobieństw między renesansowymi kobietami a współczesnymi jest w tej książce całkiem sporo, mimo tego, że dzielą nas setki lat (co oczywiście trochę przeraża). One tak samo jak my uwierzyły w mit urody, choć kanony piękna na przestrzeni lat się zmieniały. Musiały się mierzyć z wygórowanymi oczekiwaniami narzuconymi przez patriarchat. Walczyły o idealną sylwetkę ćwiczeniami i dietą. Miały obsesję wydepilowanego ciała (choć depilacja była też w pewnym momencie zestawiana z czarną magią!), wytaczały ciężkie działa przeciwko rozstępom czy więziły swoje biusty w „workach na piersi” (aka w stanikach). Renesansowe dziewczyny były też włosomaniaczkami i dużo uwagi poświęcały pielęgnacji włosów. Oczywiście wymyślały i wyszukiwały też kolejne specyfiki, które miały poprawić kondycję cery, często nieświadomie sięgając po trucizny niszczące ich zdrowie.

Jill Burke opisuje renesans z nieczęsto przedstawianej perspektywy kobiet, i robi to w lekki, przystępny sposób - jest interesująco i fascynująco. Autorka wielokrotnie odnosi się też do kultury i sztuki, więc w książce znajdziecie sporo reprodukcji obrazów (e całkiem niezłej jakości!!).
Czytajcie! Mi podobało się bardzo :)

[Rob Thompson · Rating 4 out of 5]

Jill Burke's new book How to Be a Renaissance Woman is a refreshing and inspirational read for modern women looking to expand their horizons. Burke seamlessly weaves historical context, personal anecdotes, and practical advice into an engaging narrative that makes you want to become the strong, skilled, and well-rounded woman she describes.

The book explores the original Renaissance ideal of cultivating multiple talents and abilities. Burke argues convincingly that women today can benefit from adopting this mindset by developing a diverse set of interests and skills. From learning foreign languages, to picking up new hobbies like gardening or knitting, to honing skills like public speaking and critical thinking, Burke provides specific, actionable tips for how women can stretch themselves mentally and creatively.

I found the historical research into actual Renaissance women fascinating. Getting a glimpse into how creative and multi-faceted these women were provided me with an aspirational vision. I finished the book feeling inspired about all the different areas of my life I could work to improve.

The prose is witty and erudite, just like the Renaissance women Burke brings to life through her writing. This book is equal parts entertaining and empowering. If you're a woman looking to expand your mind, skills, and experiences, I couldn't recommend How to Be a Renaissance Woman more highly. It's a guide that will exhilarate, inspire, and challenge you.

[fuufi · Rating 4 out of 5]

Me costó un poco leerlo, porque es mucho información de golpe. Ap pesar de esto, lo disfruté mucho ya que es un tema que me interesa bastante, y no está narrado como una enciclopedia en tercera persona, si no que es un relato muy personalizado por la autora.

Me dejó muchas historias de mujeres increíbles que vivieron en este tiempo, y que quizás sin este libro jamás hubiera llegado a conocer.

Creo que es muy entretenido que al final venga con recetas genuinas de la época para hacer cosméticos caseros, te dan ganas de ponerlas en práctica y ser tu propia farmacéutica.

[historic_chronicles · Rating 5 out of 5]

"Let these neglected voices be heard
Let our women not be so quiet
That they fail to be heard above the voices of men."
- Laura Terracina

In an era where appearance was everything, Professor Jill Burke pushes the remarkable stories of women that carved a life and career during the unpredictable days of the sixteenth century.

Utilising a wealth of sources well known and lesser known across art, literature and social history, Burke performs a fascinatingly intensive dive into the changing perceptions of women and their treatment.

By delving across various angles such as female oppression, the fight for feminine empowerment, women under the male gaze societal beauty standards and their inevitable repercussions among many others, this opens the floodgates to an abundance of vastly inspiring historical female figures and their extraordinary lives.

The author champions these women, weaving the historical context of the world around them with mastery and yet still allowing for a finely tuned balance between the history and comparison to the present day.

Intimate and intricate, How To Be A Renaissance Woman should be essential reading in understanding the groundwork of our culture and society. There shall be some renaissance artwork that I will never look at in the same light again following this extremely accomplished and thought-provoking book.

Thank you to @profile.books for offering me a copy of this marvellous work.

[☽ Chaya ☾ · Rating 3 out of 5]

this was interesting but also not. It’s a very precise subject and if you’re not 100% into it some parts can be a bit long or uninteresting.
Overall it’s well-written and I liked the illustrations as it helped render the book a bit more concrete.
I’d say this is a good read of you’re truly interested in this subject.

[Romi · Rating 5 out of 5]

¡Qué maravilla de libro! ¡Qué fortuna haberlo encontrado en la librería! ¡Qué buena decisión tomé al comprarlo!

Es una obra historiográfica excelente por sus contribuciones significativas a las nuevas líneas de investigación y las nuevas formas de investigar sobre las mujeres en el Renacimiento europeo, (principalmente en Italia), a partir de la historia de la cosmética.

Utiliza fuentes novedosas, las analiza y las articula de forma brillante en su exposición de los resultados de una investigación original, sólida y relevante. Las sugerencias bibliográficas y de fuentes, así como la inclusión de las recetas de cosméticos renacentistas, invitan y motivan a seguir profundizando en la temática.

La lectura es sencilla y grata. Como profesora de Historia e investigadora disfruté desde las primeras líneas hasta las últimas. Cada capítulo me resultó interesante y novedoso.

Sin dudas, un aporte significativo a la historia de las mujeres y de género, que desde la segunda mitad del siglo XX está impulsando investigaciones fundamentales para aproximarnos a los diferentes períodos históricos desde nuevas perspectivas.

Se ha convertido en uno de mis libros favoritos del campo de la Historia.

[Kate · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was a fascinating and engaging read that went much quicker than I expected! I enjoyed learning about woman through the Renaissance and found it to be particularly of interest that the preconception that woman were ignorantly poisoning themselves with their cosmetics which inaccurate. Instead, they were quite aware of their dangers and still found the risk to be worth it in many cases and also used their poisonous nature to their advantage in some cases. This book, like many others focused on this time period, truly show how much people (especially women), are inaccurately depicted and misunderstood by more recent generations. Their creativity, knowledge, and passion, while sometimes different than current ones, are no less powerful and impressive than that of today. All in all, a fun and informative read, especially for those who enjoy both women's studies and history.

[Paula · Rating 4 out of 5]

Una lectura muy interesante, disfruté aprendiendo sobre estos temas vinculados a la belleza y creatividad. Hubo muchas cosas que jamas se me hubieran ocurrido que existían y otros momentos en donde te das cuenta que hay luchas que continúan hasta hoy.
Me gustó mucho el formato de la investigación, las notas en caso de que quieras investigar más, y también las obras adjuntas. Me encontré fascinada con una en particular, así que este libro me llevó a un encuentro inesperado con el arte y generó emociones que no esperaba encontrar

[Elisenda Fusté Forès · Rating 4 out of 5]

A fantastic book that helps truly to unerstand women's life at that time. I would say that I would've loved to be born in that epoque but probably because I would obly love it I was born in the high spheres of society.
Ayway, very recommended!

[Andrea · Rating 4 out of 5]

si pensáis que los cánones de belleza femeninos son demasiado exigentes ahora, imaginad que en el renacimiento se blanqueaban los dientes con mercurio o se rociaban oro herviendo en las axilas para que no les creciera el pelo (cómo les iba a crecer con la pedazo de quemadura que les dejaba😭😭)

[paula:) · Rating 5 out of 5]

Haré una reseña más en profundidad pero me ha fascinado!!

[Rachel · Rating 4 out of 5]

Having heard an earlier iteration of this book project delivered as a keynote, I was so happy to get my hands on the final product! This was well-written (thorough, while remaining accessible) and full of all kinds of interesting material. I especially loved the section at the end of the book including actual Renaissance beautification recipes

[Retinta · Rating 5 out of 5]

MI MÁS GRANDE SUEÑO POR FAVOR YO QUIERO SER

[Shiloah · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.5 for me. An extensive work, but I felt there was so much about women on the fringe, I would have loved more average woman stories.

[Anneliese Last name (optional) · Rating 4 out of 5]

I thought it was very insightful and interesting to see how the beliefs of the past still affect our present, and it was cool to read about previously ignored and undermined women in history.

[Dori Sabourin · Rating 5 out of 5]

Beauty in 14th Century Italy

Jill Burke’s historical nonfiction book, “How To Be A Renaissance Woman,” delves into the beauty culture in 14th century Italy.

The author tells the reader: “What we do with our hair, face and body reflects and affects our social world.”

Contrariwise to popular belief, feminism began in the Renaissance Era with some women benefitting from it, while others considered it unfair, out of reach, and cruel.

At the end of the book, Burke has included artwork from the Era and updated cosmetic recipes.

[Hannah (the.baristas.books) · Rating 4 out of 5]

A wonderfully intelligent but accessible exploration into what it meant to be a woman in the Renaissance.

Burke is clearly empathetic to the plight of Renaissance womanhood while presenting the bitter truth of issues such as slave ownership, violence towards women and the various uses for mercury.

A fascinating read.

[Sofia Rivas · Rating 3 out of 5]

Lo bueno:
*Darme cuenta de que las reglas de belleza a las que estoy sometida datan, al menos, de el S.XIV. entonces tomarme todo más a la ligera por considerarlo anacrónico.
*Gran pasaje de Catalina Sforza. Una de las primeras mujeres de las que hay registro de haber servido coño (1488).
*Las recetas y recursos para seguir investigando al final

Lo malo:
*Medio de hueva de leer.

[Lucia · Rating 4 out of 5]

I finally finished a book!!!!!!!!!!!!
This subject is so interesting to me, anything about womanhood in history is just a YES!

I learned a few new things but always felt like I was missing a little bit more information to conclude the topic. But I could tell the writer really did her research. :)

[Lady Megan Fischer · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a witty, well-researched, and lively history of beauty culture in 16th- and 17th-century Italy. Jill Burke uses the beauty industry as a tool to understand society and the female experience, and makes a convincing argument that it reveals many of the same priorities and challenges across all eras.

In a time when people question the use of things like Botox, fillers, and Instagram filters as being “too much”, this book reveals that such tensions have always existed around beauty products, with many feeling the cosmetics of the Renaissance “went too far” for the confines of common sense and decency.
Eating nettles was a way to achieve rosier cheeks. A paste made from marble, wheat and bryony, a poisonous plant, could whiten skin. Many other concoctions could help you lose weight or gain it, as needed; smooth your hair and even turn it blonde; and whiten your teeth. It all sounds terribly familiar, does it not?

Most beauty products in Renaissance Italy were made of ingredients that now seem strange or foolhardy. However, women tended to know these risks, and often employed these items not for their own beautification, but to poison their hateful husbands — there’s an entire chapter on this phenomenon!

Whether in the Italian Renaissance or now, it’s clear that opinions on beauty and the standards associated with it are divided. Are we oppressed, forced into conformity by the beauty industry? Or does it provide us with creative ways to subvert the norm and rebel? All of the above might be the correct answer. Regardless, it’s a fascinating thing to read about.

[Rosie · Rating 5 out of 5]

Full of fascinating factoids, this book establishes beauty and cosmetics as a legitimate line of historical inquiry. It is as affirming as it is distressing that Western beauty standards and practices for women weren't all that different during the Renaissance as they are today. The author relies heavily on primary sources from women writers, poets, and painters, and reestablishes voices of this period that are typically overlooked by historians. One small qualm I had was that the author refers to many of these women as "feminist" but doesn't really explain if she means according to our contemporary understanding or by some definition specific to the Renaissance. It's easy to see that from our current vantage point these women defied societal expectation, but it seems likely that Renaissance women wouldn't have necessarily thought of themselves as "feminist" because that wasn't really a thing then. I think there is more nuance to unpack there, but maybe that is where an academic history steps in. Ultimately this is a very fresh perspective and fun read.

[Loretta · Rating 2 out of 5]

I didn't like this book as much I thought I would. It just scratches the surface and at the same time there's too much topics and because of it the whole book spreads too thin. The author's modern mindset also seeps through a lot. Sometimes it's necessary to make the distinction between the past and now, but this time it made the book feel like very pop history.
I also didn't agree with the author about modern use of make-up, social media and influencers and whatnot. But I'm just a dour feminist and not the fun "make-up is so creative!!!" type anyway... So the author's tangents about those things didn't hit home for me.
It's good this book was really easy and fast to read.

However, I still got to know new historical women I'll probably investigate further and I liked the recipes in the end of the book. (I'm still mad the exact recipe for curing skin conditions where you needed 3 litres of blood from a healthy red-headed male under 25-30 wasn't included. Am I supposed to bathe in it or what?)

[Cassie · Rating 3 out of 5]

This one was an interesting but slightly uneven read for me. Jill Burke’s How to Be a Renaissance Woman is a fascinating look at the lives, expectations, and realities of women in Renaissance Europe — challenging the polished, often idealised image that history books (and art galleries!) have offered us for years.

There were parts I found genuinely engaging, especially when Burke zoomed in on the day-to-day details and individual women’s stories. The blend of art, history, and social commentary was thoughtful, and I appreciated how the book tried to cut through the romanticism of the period.

But I struggled a little with the flow and structure — at times it felt more like a collection of loosely connected essays rather than a cohesive narrative. While the content was definitely informative, it didn’t always hold my attention the way I hoped it would.

Overall, I’m glad I read it — it offered fresh perspectives and plenty to think about — but it didn’t completely click for me. A solid 3 stars!